HSR fuel rails to lines on a 90'

[pologreen1]

I have the HSR now, and I read on DC somewhere that people reverse the fittings from front to back on the intake.

1. I was wondering how to make the HSR hook up to stock fuel lines on a 90' in the front like the tpi does.

2.Also pics n this thread show it, but it has more tubing than my rails came with. I only got one piece of tubing with mine, and which side does the short rail go on?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech ... rived.html

3.Can I use bigger than 24lb injectors (28-30) so I don't have to buy 2 times. for a stock motor that will be built soon?

Thanks

 

[grumpyvette]

I have the HSR now, and I read on DC somewhere that people reverse the fittings from front to back on the intake.

1. I was wondering how to make the HSR hook up to stock fuel lines on a 90' in the front like the tpi does.

the basic design on the stock hsr forces fuel into the rear of the pass side around the front and out the fuel pressure regulator at the rear of the drivers side fuel rail and back to the tank, this tends to flush air and water out of the fuel rails, if it should get into them, placing the fuel pressure regulator near the feed to the fuel rails is a vastly inferior lay out,it may not sound important, but it means that with the originally designed lay out, any water, rust dust sand etc. that might be in your fuel tank or fuel rails or air trapped in the fuel rails gets flushed back to the tank quickly, and probably gets trapped in the tank or filter vs stays trapped in the fuel rails causing problems, Id strongly suggest having your local hydraulic supply fabricate two custom feed/return lines with the correct ends so you can use the original lay out, thats what I did on my car and it cost me less than $40, LOOK THRU THIS LINK BELOW


http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Tec ... R10265.pdf

this is what you currently have :shock:

This is what you want to have (you can almost see the HP) :twisted:

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/tec ... index.html

stock un-ported runner entrances

porting helps flow significantly


2.Also pics n this thread show it, but it has more tubing than my rails came with. I only got one piece of tubing with mine, and which side does the short rail go on?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech ... rived.html

3.Can I use bigger than 24lb injectors (28-30) so I don't have to buy 2 times. for a stock motor that will be built soon?

IN using 36 lb and will upgrade to 42 lb when my wallet allows, use of the larger injectors just caused the CPU to lower the duration of the injector pulse to compensate,but be aware it takes a couple minutes to hours for some cpu software and o2 sensors to learn to compensate, depending on software used

Thanks

 

[pologreen1]

Ok, that is a great pic, I started to clean up the intake ports a little on top, but man I can take a lot out of there.

I am glad I asked about the fuel lines, because some have told me to remove the stock stuff, and just run it from the rear. I am going to go bigger than 24lb injectors than, because I have new 22's and FIC will take them back and give me bigger, and I will go a little bigger to be prepared for other upgrades. What is the highest you recommend for stock motor, just intake and exhaust right now, but I will be going to a 400+ ci in the future.

one more question. I am confused about the valley in the bottom of the intake. Do I put my guard off the bottom of my stock intake on there, or is it ok to leave the hsr as is with no valley guard?

 

[grumpyvette]

............. I am confused about the valley in the bottom of the intake. Do I put my guard off the bottom of my stock intake on there, or is it ok to leave the hsr as is with no valley guard?

I tested both ways and found ZERO improvement with a sheet of aluminum tack welded to the lower intake , to reduce oil splash raising intake runner temps, now it may help, on some cars but Im running a transmission cooler and oil cooler and a 10 quart baffled oil pan so getting my oil temps over 220F is almost a non-issue, in fact Ive got to run fairly hard to get temps to the 215F minimum to burn off moisture in the oil.

as to the fuel lines, plumb it so the feed enters the rear of the pass side fuel rail and exits the drivers side rear at the fuel pressure regulator as its designed, and run two custom fuel line extensions, theres up to several gallons a minute flushing those fuel rails, as designed, make the fuel rails a dead end on the fuel lines and your looking for them to accumulated crud,rust moisture etc.

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/wi ... 31229.html

stock bottom

The two connections to the hard lines:

EAR-9894DBHERL - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-9 ... RL&FROM=MG

EAR-9894DBJERL -http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-9894DBJERL?autofilter=1&part=EAR-9894DBJERL&N=700+4294849620+115&autoview=sku

Two of these attach to the fittings above:

(2) RUS-610220 - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-6 ... toview=sku

Then this line runs from the fittings above:

RUS-632060 -http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-632060?autofilter=1&part=RUS-632060&N=700+0&autoview=sku
Then these two fittings go on the end of the lines above:

(2) RUS-610020 http://www.summitracing.com/search/?key ... 0020&dds=1
And those fittings go into the fuel rail.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-98202/


Fuel Pressure gauge: SUM-800260 - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-8 ... &N=700+115

Fitting for Fuel Pressure gauge: HLY-26-69 - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-2 ... toview=sku

heres some nice work a guy on third gen did to his

you can have custom adapter fuel lines fabricated cheaply enough

 

[pologreen1]

Holy cow, thanks a lot Grrumpy that is great info. I really appreciate you helping me through this.
I am pretty excited, I just ported about a tennis ball size pile out of the top of the intake, you were right,there is allot of meat on there.

 

[grumpyvette]

A HSR with the port work done correctly can produce very good results if the complete combo includes a decent set of headers, matched to a low restriction exhaust system, decent heads with the port work done correctly, and matched to a 350-383-406 sbc 10.5:1-11:1 cpr short block. naturally your result depends on cam selected and a cam like these, linked below with obviously the correct converter stall speed and rear gearing, will get you there

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/te ... index.html

http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show ... vl=2&prt=5
3.54:1-3.73:1 rear gear 2800rpm-3000rpm stall about 10.5:1 cpr
street/strip

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam ... 1&x=43&y=5
3.73:1-3.90:1 rear gear 3000rpm stall-3200rpm stall about 10.7:1 cpr
strip/street

http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show ... vl=2&prt=5
3.73:1-3.90:1 rear gear 3000rpm stall-3200rpm stall about 11.:1 cpr
strip only

here is a severely under cammed , low cpr ,combo using a hsr that still shows some potential, and a thread with more related info

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/te ... index.html

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=431&p=1409&hilit=stealthram+plane+single#p1409

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/wi ... 21105.html

if you read thru the linked info on this site you'll gain a good deal more in site on how to match components, but heads like the 195cc AFR and TRICKFLOW AND BRODIX HEADS are a good start


you really need a larger cam upgrade and at least minimal head porting or far better ,good, aftermarket heads, to take full advantage of the higher flow rates the stealth ram can potentially provide, rear gear changes to gears in the 3.73-4.11 range help keep your engine in the higher rpm ranges where the aftermarket intakes can provide their full benefit
engines are a system, REQUIRING ALL PARTS MATCH THE INTENDED RPM RANGE AND AIR FLOW LEVELS FOR BEST PERFORMER, if you keep the idea that an engine combo is only as strong as the weakest link firmly in mind you'll have a better combo! THE STOCK TPI intake is extremely restrictive, almost any mods help. BUT keep in mind Chevy designed that TPI intake for the under 4000rpm range where your car spends 80% of its time ,not as an intake for max HP,you can get large gains in hp with a change of parts to match the 4000-6500rpm range but you will loose some low rpm torque in the trade for much higher rpm hp gains, its a trade off that requires rear gears , and better heads etc.

 

[grumpyvette]

pologreen1

WHY NOT POST PICTURES, of that PORT WORK??

and any tools you used and things learned

 

[pologreen1]

I can do that. I started it today, I got pretty far on it. I am no pro, though, :lol:

I used a rough bit, then a stone to smooth it out a little more, then sand paper. (not the right tools) It is not perfect, but it is much more open, and smoother than stock. I'll get some up tomorrow.

Thanks again. I hope I can get this thing together to fit under the hood like qws says it will. If not, I will be doing something to make it fit.
As usual my pics suck, but I did get a good start on it.
BTW it looks hacked up in the pics, but it actually very smooth, I think the angle of light did that.

 

[pologreen1]

I tried to kid of make a gradual slope on the dividers. I was afarid to screw it up, so I will peck away a little at a time.

 

[grumpyvette]

Russell 614208 Blue Anodized Aluminum Straight Female -8AN to Male 1/4" NPT Adapter Fitting

Russell 614206 Blue Anodized Aluminum Straight Female -6AN to Male 1/4" NPT Adapter Fitting

Earl's 981644 Blue Anodized Aluminum -4AN Male to 1/4" NPT Straight Adapter

Earl's 982208 Blue Anodized Aluminum -8AN Male to 3/8" NPT 90-Degee Elbow Adapter

Earl's 982208 Blue Anodized Aluminum -8AN Male to 3/8" NPT 90-Degee Elbow Adapter

Earl's 593201 Blue Anodized Aluminum 1/16" NPT Internal Wrenching Plug - Set of 2

 

[pologreen1]

Thanks for helping Grumpy. You are a wealth of knowledge/

Some of those fittings look the same as what came in the fuel rail kit.

I am having a problem getting the used distributors for now, so if I can't get them soon... What do you think of this?
large cap to small cap HEI adapter. $15.00 through eficonnection.com
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 6399739___

stealthram base

This is the other info you gave me, just in case others see this thread it is here too:

if a gen 1 distributor fits physically it can be made to function, most guys use aftermarket remote coil distributors, but the small diam. camaro distributor works,I used a HOLLEY 890-160 distributor

Stealth ram /msd 6A /Holley # 890-160 distributor
Ignition wireing

MSD 6A
First Two wire connector
Small orange----------coil positive
Small black------------coil negative

Magnetic pickup (NOT USED)

Single Heavy red----------battery positive +

Single Heavy black------- battery NEGATIVE/GROUND

Second Two wire connector
Small white---------small white from two pin plug on holley 890-160 AND splice in small tan Chevy tach pick-up from harness
Small red------------small red on Holley two pin plug and splice in heavy pink from Chevy harness



HOLLEY 890-160 distributor
FOUR PIN PLUG
Smaller Four pin plug on distributor plugs to ( Holley #534-138 adapter* ) then large plug on adapter plugs to larger 4 pin factory harness

HOLLEY 890-160 distributor
TWO PIN PLUG
(see MSD CONNECTION INFO ABOVE)

*these adapters are very easy to make from salvage yard parts(wire plug connectors)

 

[grumpyvette]

that site has a VIRUS so I would not advise going there , but the conversion looks like a good deal that should work