like most components reading the instructions carefully BEFORE trying to install them tends to work out better and questions to the manufacturers help line may be necessary for clearification before proceding with the installation, ID also point out that mix & match combos from differant manufacturers tends to have more problems on average
btw these threads have related info
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-852...ie-t10-saginaw-richmond-jericho-t5-lenco.html
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=584
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=447
links and info
http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... index.html
theres lots of variations so read and follow dirrections
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... RecId=3570
look thru this tilton catalog carefully
http://tiltonracing.com/pdfs/driveline07.pdf
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/files ... n_Tips.pdf
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... til-61-604
http://www.mcleodind.com/faq.html#hydra ... ut_bearing
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ram+Clutches/798/78132/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/INetCatalog/images/0147.jpg
CAN YOU POST DETAILED PICTURES, if your having problems ??
basically theres usually a bleed valve on both the master cylinder and the bearing , air tends to run up hill so make sure theres no loops in the hydraulic lines that allow air to get trapped, most hydralic bearings are designed so the pressure feed enters low and the bleed valve is located strait up, generally you temporarily, hook up the throwout bearing and hold it above the clutch master cylinder with the bleed valve on top vertical, while a buddy pumps the clutch and you let air out of the bleeder before installation,but youll need to be very careful not to over extend the bearing so you leave the bleed valve slightly open when forcing fluid under pressure untill no air remains almost like bleading brakes, once its clear you install it and rebleed to remove the air you get into the lines durring disassembly.
HYDRAULIC THROWOUT BEARING
Q. Which hydraulic throwout bearing should I use, the slip on or the bolt on?
A. While both are equal in quality and workings, there is a difference in how they fit into the bellhousing. The slip on is adjusted before you install and the bolt on is sent with the correct piston length for installation. Slip on bearings will not fit into the bellhousings and have the proper clearance unless you have approximately 3" from the outside surface of the bellhousing down to the crown of the fingers of the pressure plate. Bellhousings that are 6.5" or less, usually will not have this clearance. Always measure before ordering. Bolt on models will replace your current front input collar and will have an oil seal installed from the factory.
Q. What do I need in order to install a hydraulic throwout bearing?
A. You will need a master clutch cylinder if the vehicle does not have one already. The master clutch cylinder will connect to the hydraulic throwout bearing with a line. Steel braided teflon inner lines are preferred. Before you are connected, be sure your master cylinder has a bleeder on it. Bleeding should be done first at the master cylinder and then the bearing, then the master and then the bearing again.
if youve already installed the throw out bearing and installed the clutch youll need to get the lines routed correctly,
while its a P.I.T.A to change if its installed wrong, the pressure feed line always goes lower than the bleed off line....can you just swap the master cylinder ends of the lines, rather than remove the transmission?
, can you still get access to the bleed valves on both the clutch master cylinder and throw-out bearing, If so,bleed the hydralic fluid and trapped air in it like you would a brake caliper, and yes that is best done with the old buddy system where he pushes, and you release fluid/air untill it squirts clear fluid without air, ... clutch pedal,push,& hold, open,the bleed valve a bit, squirt, close the bleed valve , release,the petal, and repeat as necessary routine like brakes, if the bleed valve on the throw-out, bearing can,t be rotated to the top possiation at least temporarily youll have problems on occasion as the air gets trapped in the throw out bearing.
on the type with dual hydralic lines one line can usually be partly disconnected and place a wrench on it to open and close the connection as fluid is worked thru, the system, again air tends to go up and fluid drains down, don,t allow air pockets.
btw these threads have related info
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-852...ie-t10-saginaw-richmond-jericho-t5-lenco.html
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=584
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=447
links and info
http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... index.html
theres lots of variations so read and follow dirrections
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... RecId=3570
look thru this tilton catalog carefully
http://tiltonracing.com/pdfs/driveline07.pdf
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/files ... n_Tips.pdf
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... til-61-604
http://www.mcleodind.com/faq.html#hydra ... ut_bearing
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ram+Clutches/798/78132/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/INetCatalog/images/0147.jpg
CAN YOU POST DETAILED PICTURES, if your having problems ??
basically theres usually a bleed valve on both the master cylinder and the bearing , air tends to run up hill so make sure theres no loops in the hydraulic lines that allow air to get trapped, most hydralic bearings are designed so the pressure feed enters low and the bleed valve is located strait up, generally you temporarily, hook up the throwout bearing and hold it above the clutch master cylinder with the bleed valve on top vertical, while a buddy pumps the clutch and you let air out of the bleeder before installation,but youll need to be very careful not to over extend the bearing so you leave the bleed valve slightly open when forcing fluid under pressure untill no air remains almost like bleading brakes, once its clear you install it and rebleed to remove the air you get into the lines durring disassembly.
HYDRAULIC THROWOUT BEARING
Q. Which hydraulic throwout bearing should I use, the slip on or the bolt on?
A. While both are equal in quality and workings, there is a difference in how they fit into the bellhousing. The slip on is adjusted before you install and the bolt on is sent with the correct piston length for installation. Slip on bearings will not fit into the bellhousings and have the proper clearance unless you have approximately 3" from the outside surface of the bellhousing down to the crown of the fingers of the pressure plate. Bellhousings that are 6.5" or less, usually will not have this clearance. Always measure before ordering. Bolt on models will replace your current front input collar and will have an oil seal installed from the factory.
Q. What do I need in order to install a hydraulic throwout bearing?
A. You will need a master clutch cylinder if the vehicle does not have one already. The master clutch cylinder will connect to the hydraulic throwout bearing with a line. Steel braided teflon inner lines are preferred. Before you are connected, be sure your master cylinder has a bleeder on it. Bleeding should be done first at the master cylinder and then the bearing, then the master and then the bearing again.
if youve already installed the throw out bearing and installed the clutch youll need to get the lines routed correctly,
while its a P.I.T.A to change if its installed wrong, the pressure feed line always goes lower than the bleed off line....can you just swap the master cylinder ends of the lines, rather than remove the transmission?
, can you still get access to the bleed valves on both the clutch master cylinder and throw-out bearing, If so,bleed the hydralic fluid and trapped air in it like you would a brake caliper, and yes that is best done with the old buddy system where he pushes, and you release fluid/air untill it squirts clear fluid without air, ... clutch pedal,push,& hold, open,the bleed valve a bit, squirt, close the bleed valve , release,the petal, and repeat as necessary routine like brakes, if the bleed valve on the throw-out, bearing can,t be rotated to the top possiation at least temporarily youll have problems on occasion as the air gets trapped in the throw out bearing.
on the type with dual hydralic lines one line can usually be partly disconnected and place a wrench on it to open and close the connection as fluid is worked thru, the system, again air tends to go up and fluid drains down, don,t allow air pockets.
Last edited by a moderator: