I recently had gotten into a discussion , with a guy who was interested in building a custom replica car,
in which he intended to install a serious big block chevy engine,
many guys fail to realize a full race engine with its impressive power rating is both not a good choice and not likely to last for close to a 100-120 k miles,
between required rebuilds, its also not going to produce the listed power levels without constant tuning.
he was debating the best choice in displacement, and compression etc.
and he seemed to be under the impression that he could purchase a 12.5:1 compression, 572-632 bbc engine for the car,slap it and and drive it without issues.
and that the much larger displacement engine would provide him with an obvious advantage
, as those larger engines do produce impressive torque over a wide power/rpm band.
he was looking at an 800 hp 12.5:1 compression crate engine,
I pointed out, he would need a steady and expensive supply of 110 octane fuel,
and paying well over double the price per gallon for race vs pump gas,
gets old really fast on a car used for transportation.
and running out of gas ,
with a car that would be lucky to get 7 mpg,
and not being able to use pump gas is a problem.
because this was to be used 98% of the time as a performance street toy,
now keep in mind the total car weight, suspension and drive train,
and the car he was thinking of building would be used for both daily transportation
and occasional road racing, not much drag racing.
I pointed out the option of building a serious custom built engine.
but I think the need for massive torque, and need for only race fuel,
is counter productive in such a light car
(less than 2400 lbs with a BBC engine)
I suggested a DART block, and a scat rotating assembly
but , because this was not a full out race application,
and durability and no constant rebuilds would be very desirable,
a slightly lower compression than a true race engine would use, and lower displacement 540 BBC with about 9.3 :1 compression,
all forged components and a decent hydraulic roller cam, could be built to give very impressive street/strip performance,
without having to always pay for high octane fuel and he might consider a nitrous plate if he wanted exceptional power occasionally.
ID have used a dana 60 rear differential, with 3.54:1 gears and a manual transmission with OD like a super muncie
I suggested that he could easily still expect to hit 650 hp
if the correctly matched components were used, and he would have an extra 200 hp plus on tap if he chose to use the wet nitrous.
something like this, but certainly you do the math and tweak the parts selection as required.
block
http://dartheads.com/dart-product/big-m-mrk-iv-gen-v-gen-vi/
intake
https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/29271/10002/-1
carb
https://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-9375-1/10002/-1
heads
https://www.airflowresearch.com/315cc-bbc-rectangle-port-cylinder-head/
rotating assembly
https://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-42370BI/10002/-1
transmission
https://www.riversidegear.com/munci...g-m23-4-speed-custom-built-to-your-needs.html
hyd roller cam
https://cranecams.com/powermax-hydraulic-roller-240-248-camshaft-for-chevrolet-396-454-big-block/
wet nitrous
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nos-02002nos/overview/
heres an example of what might be built from a kit car that would kick butt!
http://www.scottrodscustom.com/cheetah.html
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...asonably-fast-in-street-trim.3404/#post-69170
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-custom-car-body-suppliers.11629/#post-54275
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/muncie-transmission-info.396/#post-77950
in which he intended to install a serious big block chevy engine,
many guys fail to realize a full race engine with its impressive power rating is both not a good choice and not likely to last for close to a 100-120 k miles,
between required rebuilds, its also not going to produce the listed power levels without constant tuning.
he was debating the best choice in displacement, and compression etc.
and he seemed to be under the impression that he could purchase a 12.5:1 compression, 572-632 bbc engine for the car,slap it and and drive it without issues.
and that the much larger displacement engine would provide him with an obvious advantage
, as those larger engines do produce impressive torque over a wide power/rpm band.
he was looking at an 800 hp 12.5:1 compression crate engine,
I pointed out, he would need a steady and expensive supply of 110 octane fuel,
and paying well over double the price per gallon for race vs pump gas,
gets old really fast on a car used for transportation.
and running out of gas ,
with a car that would be lucky to get 7 mpg,
and not being able to use pump gas is a problem.
because this was to be used 98% of the time as a performance street toy,
now keep in mind the total car weight, suspension and drive train,
and the car he was thinking of building would be used for both daily transportation
and occasional road racing, not much drag racing.
I pointed out the option of building a serious custom built engine.
but I think the need for massive torque, and need for only race fuel,
is counter productive in such a light car
(less than 2400 lbs with a BBC engine)
I suggested a DART block, and a scat rotating assembly
but , because this was not a full out race application,
and durability and no constant rebuilds would be very desirable,
a slightly lower compression than a true race engine would use, and lower displacement 540 BBC with about 9.3 :1 compression,
all forged components and a decent hydraulic roller cam, could be built to give very impressive street/strip performance,
without having to always pay for high octane fuel and he might consider a nitrous plate if he wanted exceptional power occasionally.
ID have used a dana 60 rear differential, with 3.54:1 gears and a manual transmission with OD like a super muncie
I suggested that he could easily still expect to hit 650 hp
if the correctly matched components were used, and he would have an extra 200 hp plus on tap if he chose to use the wet nitrous.
something like this, but certainly you do the math and tweak the parts selection as required.
block
http://dartheads.com/dart-product/big-m-mrk-iv-gen-v-gen-vi/
intake
https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/29271/10002/-1
carb
https://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-9375-1/10002/-1
heads
https://www.airflowresearch.com/315cc-bbc-rectangle-port-cylinder-head/
rotating assembly
https://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-42370BI/10002/-1
transmission
https://www.riversidegear.com/munci...g-m23-4-speed-custom-built-to-your-needs.html
hyd roller cam
https://cranecams.com/powermax-hydraulic-roller-240-248-camshaft-for-chevrolet-396-454-big-block/
wet nitrous
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nos-02002nos/overview/
heres an example of what might be built from a kit car that would kick butt!
http://www.scottrodscustom.com/cheetah.html
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...asonably-fast-in-street-trim.3404/#post-69170
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-custom-car-body-suppliers.11629/#post-54275
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/muncie-transmission-info.396/#post-77950
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