not quite sure how your set up, but if youve got a leave spring rear like many early camaros and novas, this type of traction assistance bar MIGHT help
http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html
simple and effective, they are a big improvement overs most other traction bars
keep in mind these caltracs won,t cure every problem and adding individually adjustable air shocks helps a great deal, and they tend to work better than snubber bars once youve installed frame connectors and decent rear springs and a roll cage is highly recomended as it significantly stiffens the body to get the body flex issues under control
http://www.corbettsauto.com/1969_camaro ... _parts.htm
CAL-TRAC SUSPENSION SETTINGS
UPPER hole – Hardest LOADING OF SUSPENSION
Bottom hole – Softer LOADING, moves IC forward, and has less effect
More Pre-load, Softer LOADING,
Less Pre-load, more air gap, results in harder LOADING,
If car pulls to the right add a quarter to a half turn of pre-load to the right bar and visa versa.
Set front shocks reasonably soft, max travel
Set rear shocks on minimum, if car wants to bounce on launch go to 6 or 7 or (harder).
If car spins,the tires excessively it needs harder hit, and check for full tire contact with pavement
Too much wheel stand…. GO WITH A Softer LOAD SETTING , restrict front suspension travel, increase tire air pressure slightly
now many guys I know have never seen these traction bars (above) so Ill point them out, most guys are more familiar with these (BELOW)
which tend to be heavier and don,t generally work as effectively.
http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html
http://www.4secondsflat.com/CalTracs.html
http://www.maxchevy.com/tech/2008/iii_9 ... ion-1.html
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html
one more in an ENDLESS LIST of reasons owning a decent WELDER is a GREAT IDEA!
Id bet almost any serious hot rodder will save enough over a couple years to easily pay for a decent MIG or TIG welder several times, over in both repairs and lower cost on buying parts he could more easily make custom.
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=1594
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=72
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=441&p=1436#p1436
http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html
simple and effective, they are a big improvement overs most other traction bars
keep in mind these caltracs won,t cure every problem and adding individually adjustable air shocks helps a great deal, and they tend to work better than snubber bars once youve installed frame connectors and decent rear springs and a roll cage is highly recomended as it significantly stiffens the body to get the body flex issues under control
http://www.corbettsauto.com/1969_camaro ... _parts.htm
CAL-TRAC SUSPENSION SETTINGS
UPPER hole – Hardest LOADING OF SUSPENSION
Bottom hole – Softer LOADING, moves IC forward, and has less effect
More Pre-load, Softer LOADING,
Less Pre-load, more air gap, results in harder LOADING,
If car pulls to the right add a quarter to a half turn of pre-load to the right bar and visa versa.
Set front shocks reasonably soft, max travel
Set rear shocks on minimum, if car wants to bounce on launch go to 6 or 7 or (harder).
If car spins,the tires excessively it needs harder hit, and check for full tire contact with pavement
Too much wheel stand…. GO WITH A Softer LOAD SETTING , restrict front suspension travel, increase tire air pressure slightly
now many guys I know have never seen these traction bars (above) so Ill point them out, most guys are more familiar with these (BELOW)
http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html
http://www.4secondsflat.com/CalTracs.html
http://www.maxchevy.com/tech/2008/iii_9 ... ion-1.html
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html
one more in an ENDLESS LIST of reasons owning a decent WELDER is a GREAT IDEA!
Id bet almost any serious hot rodder will save enough over a couple years to easily pay for a decent MIG or TIG welder several times, over in both repairs and lower cost on buying parts he could more easily make custom.
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=1594
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=72
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=441&p=1436#p1436