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Speedsmith

Member
Hi,
Recently retired and in the process of resurrecting an Chris Allston round tube chassis I built in '93. Motor was a 468 based on Reheer Morrision recipe at the time with TH400, in '96 had just freshed the motor and 3 passes in hit the wall, no structural damage but totaled the '63 vette fiberglass body. Well, got married raised two beautiful daughters.......Blah Blah. Ordered a 63' vette body from Hairy, 4 weeks till delivery, sold the dominator and going with Holly Terminator EFI, pick up an aluminum driveshaft. It's currently an A arm, will stay that way this year and plan to front half it to struts. Plan is just to have fun test and tune days. Great form, I've beeen lurking catching up but now I'm official.
Thanks, Jim
 
Oh ya forgot, followed the Reher Morrision recipe, with the addition of Jessel shaft rockers and Childs and Alberts aluminum rods, been a while.
 
yes, welcome,
and , yeah, posting a few pictures would be very helpful?
 
Rick,
Thanks for the welcome, be a little while for pictures of entire chassis, the cars in the trailer and I didn't mention in my intro, after the vette body went bye, I had a 89' Merkur Xr4Ti, went through 2 trans rebuilds, car was showing a little rust so I thought why not. Plasma cut the bottom of the car out, trial fit it on the chassis, life happened put in in the trailer. So were starting 25 years later and it was 9 Deg. this morning, with great anticipation I removed the manifold and valve cover to see if I stored it right, see pictures, still have to boreascope the cylinders. With the hope alls fine I'm draining the oil ( slow process at this temp ) and put together one of those get around to projects, had all the stuff to build a pressureized oiler, and did last night. Got a 10 micron filter and dry break quick connect, tanks rated for 150 P.S.I.. Added the filter because I going to use the drain oil to prelube, drain that and put in new. Having the 63' body shipped to a friend of mine with a frame table in KY, current wheelbase in 104", going to stretch to 110 1/2", can't convince thim to do the A arm, strut changeover this go round. Might notice a FAST TB, in my intro I said Terminator X EFI, using the Terminator ECU, Dash, EGTmodule, but got what I think is a good deal on the FASY TB, manifold, dual sync distributor and fuel rails. TB is advertised to flow 1345 CFM.. Should be primed and ready to fire when the injectors get here ( 80LB/HR high Z Decka ), any comments and/or suggestions are apperciated.
 

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Well I completely understand the family getting in the way. I did some sprint car dirt track, then some kart racing and had my TBucket since 1979, but that all stopped. I drove it again for the first time in 20-25 years in 2014.

My wife is from St Joe Michigan, so I've been up there several times. Went to big track for an Indy Car race way back when 3 spectators died about 12 rows in front of us in turn 4 when a wheel came over the fence.

I completely missed out on all the computer stuff/fuel injection while raising my kids, so I'm not going to be much help in that area.

Thanks for the pics !
 
Wow, that was MIS speedway and I was there too, about the apex of 4. During my non drag race years I built a couple 4 Cyl Turbo cars, got into stand alone engine management and why I want to go that way for drag is the data you can collect.
 
I was looking at your Dart SHP Engine Project and don't know if you've ever tried it, but before I paint the inside or outside of a cast iron block I run a propane/MAP gas torch of the surfaces I'm going to paint. This especially applies to used blocks ( after tanking/cleaning ) but I've done new also. I do not dwell on a area so it gets anywhere near the burning temp of either gas but work a area in a circular pattern untill the iron turns color ( lighter ) on used blocks this is the water and oil that cleaning and drying the block doesn't remove, on a new block it's residiual machining fluids, water.
 
Speedsmith said:
before I paint the inside or outside of a cast iron block I run a propane/MAP gas torch of the surfaces I'm going to paint. This especially applies to used blocks ( after tanking/cleaning ) but I've done new also. I do not dwell on a area so it gets anywhere near the burning temp of either gas but work a area in a circular pattern untill the iron turns color ( lighter ) on used blocks this is the water and oil that cleaning and drying the block doesn't remove, on a new block it's residiual machining fluids, water.
Click to expand...
This is done for many different coatings to remove any substances that might out gas later when the temperature rises. Never thought about it when painting a block, but it make sense.
 
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