UN-machined SBC blocks have a nominal 9.0" deck height,
its very common to have the deck on a previously undecked block actually measure 9.022"-9.025"
block prep.
you really should read these links for a lot more USEFUL info, on block pre prep one of the least discussed & acknowledged, and yet more common reasons engines fail , is related to micro metallic crud left in the engine while its being assembled, especially engine's built on newly machined...garage.grumpysperformance.com
grinding block for stroker assembly
I finished grinding my block for 383 stroker assembly a couple of weeks ago. I found a tip to help cut down on metal dust particles. Take a magnet any type, and put it in a zip lock bag, then place the bag as close as you can to the area your grinding. I put mine in the direction of the flow...garage.grumpysperformance.com
Engine Block Cylinder Wall Thickness
HOW FAR CAN YOU BORE A BLOCK? before you begin to have a engine block bored more than about .030 over size its a good idea to have the blocks bore walls sonic tested Have your machinist sonic check the block before you bore it. calculate the remaining bore wall thickness, and if its not thick...garage.grumpysperformance.com
UN-machined BBC blocks have a nominal 9.8" deck height,
its very common to have the deck on a previously undecked block actually measure 9.822-9.825
well heres my take, based on doing that on several blocks,
now I've built and run engines, with partially filled blocks,
but if the block wall sonic tested under about .170-.180 I did not bother using that block , and yes I had BBC engines that made in excess of 700 hp/700 ft lbs built with partial fills,
If your getting a little too enthusiastic in rod to block clearance and get a pin hole in the coolant passages, Id use a 1/2 cup of J&B epoxy weld (basically both full tubes mixed and poured into the coolant passage )
poured into the blocks previously carefully steam cleaned and heat gun dried coolant passage area
Ive seen it done several times in the last couple years without issues
if the hole youve cur for stroker rod clearance in the lower bore skirt is in error so large it starts to drip out coolant or if its cleaned and inspected you need to make repairs in that area the proper J&B epoxy will permanently seal the coolant passages, you can prevent epoxy from dripping out before it sets up and bonds with a temp plug with plastic clay, every decent machinist I know has a package to measure some clearance like oil pump pick-up to oil pan floor and valve too piston clearances
(1) what your effectively contemplating is supporting about the lower 1/3rd -1/2 of the bore wall in the coolant passages , this will not have a huge effect on cooling as he stated, as most engine heat is generated in the upper 2.5" of the bore and in the valve train, but it will have some effect, and yes your engine will tend to run warmer, so you better not have a marginal cooling system, and adding a large oil cooler, and if you have an automatic trans a large trans fluid cooler, and a larger radiator, is a good idea
Keep in mind a well designed 7-8 quart baffled oil pan adds both durability and helps reduce cooling issues
(2) if you do fill the block remember to place a tube in the fill so the block drain can be used to drain coolant
(3) if you are looking at doing that to begin with, what your machine shop is basically telling you is that after checking with sonic testing the bore wall strength will be marginal with the block you have and thus he thinks it might be better to take the precaution of further supporting the thin bore walls.
(4)machine shop costs have a way of snow balling on a steep hill, it would frequently be best if your just starting out , and before you dump a stack of cash into the machinist pockets to step back and think seriously about abandoning or selling the current block and purchasing a much stronger, thicker and better ,quality,
cast iron or even aluminum (if you have deep pockets)alloy aftermarket DART BLOCK,BRODIX,WORLD PRODUCTS,ETC. with its significantly thicker casting.
in most cases that will actually result in spending less total cash than trying to band-aid a stock thinner more flex-able O.E.M. block
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvmupoDIsZ0
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/07/cracking-block-fillers/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/
take the time and effort to read through the linked threads,
and contained sub linked info,
it might save you a lot of wasted cash and time.
http://dartheads.com/dart-product/big-m-mrk-iv-gen-v-gen-vi/
http://dartheads.com/product-category/big-block-chevy/blocks/
https://www.jegs.com/v/World-Produc...MIo7mtwsbu2gIVCzNpCh1B_AucEAAYASAAEgKTwfD_BwE
https://www.billmitchellproducts.com/engine-blocks/
https://www.steveschmidtracing.com/short-blocks/big-block-chevy
http://www.shafiroff.com/
http://www.ohiocrank.com/shortbpage1.html
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...flow-rates-and-heat-transfer.9880/#post-64431
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-fillers.11033/#post-48899
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-cylinder-wall-thickness.7646/#post-26904
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-splayed-caps.7267/#post-24723
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...plate-honing-makes-a-differance.588/#post-764
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-71538
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-block-main-cap-movement.6162/#post-19172
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ore-clearance-on-your-block.14251/#post-72471
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...bearing-studs-torque-stretch.9409/#post-34238
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-71538
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-with-a-local-machine-shop.14419/#post-74389
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-displacement-street-engine.10961/#post-48359
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/#post-10122
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/machine-work-costs.3169/#post-8452
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-71170
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-59253
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-buying-used-engine-blocks.14305/#post-73107
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68850
http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-72-646-300.aspx
clean any block you buy and look for obvious cracks and if you have doubts get the machine shop to mag or dye test the block or heads
lifter bores
and lifter gallery
,piston bore walls,
block main cap web support areas
heads between the valves in valve seat area
look for stripped head and manifold and oil pan mounting bolt threads,
in threaded holes and cracks in block radiating from the holes
ASK LOTS TO QUESTIONS & SHOP CAREFULLY,
the web sites designed to teach and answer questions
youll notice most threads have
numerous links,
and theres a search feature,
using that will help answer questions,
if you need more info please ask detailed questions
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-496bbc.5123/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-about-your-potential-dream-bbc-combos.14607/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/427-tall-deck-bbc.14451/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/427-tall-deck.15267/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/matching-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/496ci-revamped.14642/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-to-take-awhile-but-theres-good-tips.15295/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-mid-range-454-bbc-build.8215/
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