installing an oil pump pick-up tube

There was no noise before the pump replacement, we rechecked the only rod we took loose to inspect bearings. No issue found. Others have stated they have a sound like a click and maybe that is a better description than a rod knock but it is loud enough to be concerning. I'll get you a video.
 


READ CAREFULLY

lt1dddd.JPG


this gear must not bind on the distributor too oil pump drive shaft when the distributor is seated firmly on the intake manifold and clamped into place there must be about .050 clearance minimum, if there is not that could cause a clicking noise
148_0506_how_09_z.jpg
sbcoilpj.jpg
 
maybe its the videos audio, but I can't hear much but the exhaust rumble and maybe a minor header gasket leak
 
looks like the wrong (too short of a bolt was used) and torqued into the block threads to secure the oil pump,
stripping & cracking the block threads

failure to use the correct oil pump, mounting stud, bolt or nut or carefully check clearances when mounting an oil pump can cause problems, use of too short a bolt can strip the main cap threads, if its too long it may damage the rear main bearing, use of studs avoid both potential issues.
at least one bright point is its only the rear main cap thats damaged and while its a P.I.T.A. to find and replace, the blocks not trash

pumpss1.jpg


pumpss2.jpg


ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP,(like the picture shows below) IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING AND LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH ROTATION
oil%20pump%20stud.jpg
 
Last edited:
Something bad happened to that cap. We had to run a tap through it to be able to put a bolt in without the pump in place. I think it was cross threaded and no one noticed. I have a new stud in the way, will pick up some red lock tite and see what we get. The filter by pass was removed and plugged at the last rebuild so no metal should have made it into the engine.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Grumpy how do you get all the parts out for the bypass in the pump? I cannot get the Piston to come all the way out.
 
removing the oil pump piston, from the oil pump is not required, youll want too, remove only the spring and pin retaining the spring or threaded plug retaining the spring should be removed, as they might get damaged when brazing . or tig welding the oil pump pick-up to the pump, the piston is steel and will not be affected, unless you get crazy with the torch

read through the link


pressureREGaaa.jpg
 
Last edited:
The plot thickens, dropped the pan found alot of glitter.. appears the be alum. Check the main and rod bearings no damage.
 
Question, After two trys by my machine shop and two craped up jobs...the first one one bead and it fell off when I was trying to test fit the pan, and the second weld up job with four/five bead and a CROCKED pick up, that was a inch fro the pan, which I ended up THROWING HARD AS I COULD to the floor which broke the welds and parted the pickup from the pump...

So I feel I cannot trust such an abused part an buying another BBC pump and pickup.

SO I lean towards drilling and threading two holes though the pump housing and the pickup and secure the pickup my self.

Rich

PS Scares me to death that a simple welding job is done so badly, and I am forced to trust their engine building....
 
thats one reason why Ive always vastly preferred BRAZING the oil pump pick-up to the pump body's



710IV5MmCEL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

you can use these rods with a TIG welder OR oxy-acetylene torch
 
Yes BUT I already had one of the best shops screw this job up twice, and I am guessing part of the problem is cast iron body to a sheet metal tube...had to get the welding right for two different metals.

I know I can drill one or two holes and tap them and then put in one or two screws sealed with a sealer like expoxie and it will stay in place.

Rich.
 
710oilpumps.jpg

tig or oxyacetylene torch brazing , turns the brass into a near liquid, that flows into micro cracks and as it cools locks the surfaces together, welding dis-similar metals like brittle cast iron to mild steel leaves a weld that's much more likely to crack under constant vibration
 
Last edited:
Back
Top