there are several tricks & tools that make installing plugs easier, on many newer cars like my 1996 corvette theres a few plug locations where you need to remove accessory brackets or use special tools to access plugs
one trick to installing/starting the threads is to slip a plug neck firmly into a 18" section of rubber fuel line, you can then guide it into place with one hand while spinning the tube and plug with the other with far less chance of dropping the spark plug , so it can roll into some never to be located place in your shop or car frame , exhaust system, or suspension
this allows the plug to be easily directed into place,spun and aligned in a tight place .
gap them correctly, a .043 is about correct for most applications and don,t forget the ANTI-SEEZE on the threads
in many locations a swivel head ratchet wrench that fits the hex on a custom shortened spark plug socket is the ideal tool
cutting down a standard hex socket will allow it use with a wrench in far tighter confines
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682000&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sle-30102/overview/
always use a bit of anti-seize paste on spark plugs, threads, being used in aluminum cylinder heads even if not required and its best to remove & install them when the engines not very hot, be very careful to start threading them into the heads by hand, and don,t over tighten them as its all too easy to strip soft aluminum plug threads in aluminum cylinder heads, if you have access to a 3/8" drive inch/la torque wrench 12-13 ft lbs is about correct torque
cutting a standard socket to shorter length helps at times, in fact its a really good tool to fabricate, using a much longer spark plug socket
and an open end wrench vs a ratchet can work at other times..
http://www.powerhouseproducts.com/ph/spark-plug-socket-5-8html
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3906088165 ... s&var=sbar
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=98484
http://www.tool-sale.com/drive-flexible ... -3255.html
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-pow351690
it obviously helps if the threads in the cylinder head are not buggered up so you might need a thread tap
a FLEX EXTENSION CAN BE HELPFUL as can WOBBLE EXTENSIONS, and UNIVERSALS AND SHORT EXTENSIONS
adding thermal spark plug shields for the ignition wires near the headers helps protect the ignition efficiency and reduce problems
http://cableorganizer.com/insultherm-spark/
then theres snap-ons limited access socket
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... e&tool=all
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94011
http://www.rshongkong.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&D=Sidewinder Speedwrench&Ntt=Sidewinder Speedwrench&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntx=mode matchany&N=0&Nty=1&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2483097&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0140285926.1159188189@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccjaddilkjdlmmcefeceefdffhdhif.0&cacheID=hk01netscape&Nr=avl:hk01
these spinner ratchets are basically a P.I.T.A. and nearly useless and clumsy 98% of the time but on rare occasions they are a job saver
a great deal of the options in the route youll take in installing ignition wires are determined by how you need to route the wires IE from over the valve cover or from under the headers
most SBC but not all by any means route ignition wires following the upper route , many big block engines look far cleaner routing the lower route, under the headers, boot angles , and flex heat shield socks on the plug wires are also a factor
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ition-wires-getting-the-header-clearance.840/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/reading-spark-plugs.3949/#post-25481
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm
http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products/index.cgi/main3
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdgear02.html#9520
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91705
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ignition-wire-crimp-tool.2749/
wobble extensions can be a help at times
http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Wobble-...70-0918205?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1191099843&sr=1-3
and you won,t be the first guy to cut a hole in an inner fender skirt to get access at a decent angle to a spark plug and if you need to remove some accessory to get access, DO IT rather than beat yourself silly trying to work around the darn thing!!
think in THREE dimensions, sometimes accessing a plug from under the cars far easier than from above.
the two rear pass side plugs on some corvettes is usually easier this way IF YOU have the correct tools
In most cases a offset box end wrench can be used,
in many cases you'll want to cut the wrench in half or shorter for easier access, or use one in combo with a spark-plug socket that's been cut much shorter than originally produced on a lathe, Ive even seen guys cut the socket shorter and weld a short wrench at an odd angle just for one particularly P.I.T.A. plug location on their car
ratchet gear wrenches on plug sockets can be used frequently in tight access areas
cutting a socket down like this and use of a open end wrench , rather than a ratchet to turn the socket from the side on the rear hex is the better route, (yeah! you may need to cut it even shorter than the picture suggests) in fact with the use of a wrench on the outside hex, theres no reason the socket can,t be cut enough for the plug tip to extend well out of the drive hole where the ratchet usually fits into the socket and don,t forget that they make 1/2" drive sockets also that allow the plug to extend further out, or that you can weld a wrench at odd angles to the socket (even to the side of the socket) one great reason to pick up cheap Chinese wrenches , is the cut/weld use for applications where you'll be reluctant to do so with a decent wrench brand
the 12 piece SAE and METRIC SETS will cost you about $70 a set if you don,t catch a sale but i see them at some places selling for $130 a set so shop carefully
RELATED INFO
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80783
one trick to installing/starting the threads is to slip a plug neck firmly into a 18" section of rubber fuel line, you can then guide it into place with one hand while spinning the tube and plug with the other with far less chance of dropping the spark plug , so it can roll into some never to be located place in your shop or car frame , exhaust system, or suspension
this allows the plug to be easily directed into place,spun and aligned in a tight place .
gap them correctly, a .043 is about correct for most applications and don,t forget the ANTI-SEEZE on the threads
in many locations a swivel head ratchet wrench that fits the hex on a custom shortened spark plug socket is the ideal tool
cutting down a standard hex socket will allow it use with a wrench in far tighter confines
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682000&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sle-30102/overview/
always use a bit of anti-seize paste on spark plugs, threads, being used in aluminum cylinder heads even if not required and its best to remove & install them when the engines not very hot, be very careful to start threading them into the heads by hand, and don,t over tighten them as its all too easy to strip soft aluminum plug threads in aluminum cylinder heads, if you have access to a 3/8" drive inch/la torque wrench 12-13 ft lbs is about correct torque
cutting a standard socket to shorter length helps at times, in fact its a really good tool to fabricate, using a much longer spark plug socket
and an open end wrench vs a ratchet can work at other times..
http://www.powerhouseproducts.com/ph/spark-plug-socket-5-8html
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3906088165 ... s&var=sbar
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=98484
http://www.tool-sale.com/drive-flexible ... -3255.html
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-pow351690
it obviously helps if the threads in the cylinder head are not buggered up so you might need a thread tap
a FLEX EXTENSION CAN BE HELPFUL as can WOBBLE EXTENSIONS, and UNIVERSALS AND SHORT EXTENSIONS
adding thermal spark plug shields for the ignition wires near the headers helps protect the ignition efficiency and reduce problems
http://cableorganizer.com/insultherm-spark/
then theres snap-ons limited access socket
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... e&tool=all
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94011
http://www.rshongkong.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&D=Sidewinder Speedwrench&Ntt=Sidewinder Speedwrench&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntx=mode matchany&N=0&Nty=1&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2483097&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0140285926.1159188189@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccjaddilkjdlmmcefeceefdffhdhif.0&cacheID=hk01netscape&Nr=avl:hk01
these spinner ratchets are basically a P.I.T.A. and nearly useless and clumsy 98% of the time but on rare occasions they are a job saver
a great deal of the options in the route youll take in installing ignition wires are determined by how you need to route the wires IE from over the valve cover or from under the headers
most SBC but not all by any means route ignition wires following the upper route , many big block engines look far cleaner routing the lower route, under the headers, boot angles , and flex heat shield socks on the plug wires are also a factor
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ition-wires-getting-the-header-clearance.840/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/reading-spark-plugs.3949/#post-25481
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm
http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products/index.cgi/main3
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdgear02.html#9520
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91705
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ignition-wire-crimp-tool.2749/
wobble extensions can be a help at times
http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Wobble-...70-0918205?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1191099843&sr=1-3
and you won,t be the first guy to cut a hole in an inner fender skirt to get access at a decent angle to a spark plug and if you need to remove some accessory to get access, DO IT rather than beat yourself silly trying to work around the darn thing!!
think in THREE dimensions, sometimes accessing a plug from under the cars far easier than from above.
the two rear pass side plugs on some corvettes is usually easier this way IF YOU have the correct tools
In most cases a offset box end wrench can be used,
in many cases you'll want to cut the wrench in half or shorter for easier access, or use one in combo with a spark-plug socket that's been cut much shorter than originally produced on a lathe, Ive even seen guys cut the socket shorter and weld a short wrench at an odd angle just for one particularly P.I.T.A. plug location on their car
ratchet gear wrenches on plug sockets can be used frequently in tight access areas
cutting a socket down like this and use of a open end wrench , rather than a ratchet to turn the socket from the side on the rear hex is the better route, (yeah! you may need to cut it even shorter than the picture suggests) in fact with the use of a wrench on the outside hex, theres no reason the socket can,t be cut enough for the plug tip to extend well out of the drive hole where the ratchet usually fits into the socket and don,t forget that they make 1/2" drive sockets also that allow the plug to extend further out, or that you can weld a wrench at odd angles to the socket (even to the side of the socket) one great reason to pick up cheap Chinese wrenches , is the cut/weld use for applications where you'll be reluctant to do so with a decent wrench brand
the 12 piece SAE and METRIC SETS will cost you about $70 a set if you don,t catch a sale but i see them at some places selling for $130 a set so shop carefully
RELATED INFO
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80783
Last edited by a moderator: