interesting ls turbo

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
denmah said:
i know some of you know the car, my buddy marks car that i tune. figured you would like the update

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403 stroker stock block (not filled) lq4
callies crank, rods, and weisco pistons i believe 9.2:1 compression
stock 317 heads, LS9 gaskets, stock ls1 intake, throttle, 80lb injectors
home built th400, ptc converter, 4 inch ebay air to air intercooler, 3 inch china piping, cooling mist alky kit, Home made hotside, twin tial gates and ams1000 boost controller (recirculating)

s484 billet forced inductions turbo, ljms cam, btr springs, tubular front end and adjustable shocks front and back, stock 8.8 rear narrowed, axles, and mini tub. 3.08:1 rear gears

295 drag radials, running megasquirt 3x tuned by me, 22lbs of boost 17deg on c16

high 7s at 174

its been 8.32 @ 164 on pump gas!

http://youtu.be/XuxdXNWBIps
E1HK4Bm.jpg
 
hey! mark broke into the 7's! thats awesome... i posted som link to youtube of that car in another thread some time ago. very col, and incase you missed that (guys who only scroll n look at pictures) that sucker goes 8.30s at 160+ on pump gas!
 
yeah! its damn impressive, but at 403 cubic inches on that ls engine, running on 22-30 lbs of inter-cooled turbo boost pressure,and I'm assuming E85, I can,t help but wonder if your not going to be able to duplicate or exceed that power output with something like a 477 cubic inch big block with a 3.75" stroke and 4.5" bore.
 
on the 7 second pass it says they were running C16 so with that leveling the playing field in detonation resistance anythings possible... but even with the 8.3x at 160 on the 93 pump swill yea i suppose more displacement you may go faster except that LS cylinder head design is so vastly superior to any of the factory or off the shelf aftermarket big block stuff that im not sure if the results can be duplicated with the pump gas. i mean the trick flow 255 head flows In 363cfm and ex 262cfm @600" and 382 / 258 @700" right out of the box with no porting or any work.... and if we are talking about single digit race cars theres this for the ls series...
GOT AN LS engine swap?
http://www.mastmotorsports.com/view.php?id=160&c=49&s=7




so i mean if we go to big blocks i think it would make more sense to pop something 500+ inches in there to compensate for the other effects that running a bigger heavier motor brings about. you also have to consider packaging... the aftermarket makes dropping a high performance LS into any common vehicle platform easy and cheap
 

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http://www.brodix.com/heads/big-block-c ... 0-series12

http://www.brodix.com/heads/big-block-c ... a-series24

http://www.brodix.com/heads/big-block-c ... -cylinder-
http://www.improvedracing.com/tech/LS-o ... nsions.php

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/sh ... p?t=208618

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... tmlheads20

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/150 ... yle-block/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/071 ... ock-build/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hdr ... ild-giant/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/0404sc ... ce-engine/
GM Engine Vin Codes
Anyone going out looking for a 4.8L or 5.3L Truck based LS engine that has already been removed from the vehicleBeware, Because unless you can look into the spark plug hole with a scope or little camera to see the top of the piston or insert a wire and run it across the piston surface to feel if it's dished or a flat top It's hard to tell the difference between those two. However if you look for the 8th digit in the VIN It will tell you most everything you need to know.

1999-2006 Trucks, Vans & SUV
4.3L
, VIN. X or W(2003+) (8th digit)
6.0L, VIN. U (8th digit), (LQ4) Trucks, Vans and Denali
6.0L, VIN. N (8th digit) (LQ9) Escalades & SS Silverado
4.8L, VIN. V (8th digit)
5.3L, VIN. T (8th digit, opt LM7)
5.3L, VIN. Z (8th digit, opt L59)
5.3L, VIN. B (8th digit, opt L33 05+ HO Aluminum and Iron Block with 243/799 heads)

2007+ Trucks
classic body style, 6.0L, VIN. U (8th digit, opt LQ4), Compressed Natural Gas and Gasoline
classic body style, 6.0L, VIN. N (8th digit, opt LQ9)
classic body style, 4.8L, (VIN. V, 8th digit, opt LR4)
classic body style, 5.3L, VIN. T (8th digit, opt LM7)
classic body style, 5.3L, VIN. Z (8th digit, opt L59)
classic body style, 5.3L, VIN. B (8th digit, opt L33)
classic body style, 4.3L, (VIN. X, 8th digit, opt LU3)

new body style, 5.3L, (VIN. 0, 8th digit, opt LMG)
new body style, 5.3L, (VIN. J, 8th digit, opt LY5)
new body style, 5.3L, (VIN. 3, 8th digit, opt LC9)
new body style, 5.3L, (VIN. M, 8th digit, opt LH6)
new body style, 6.0L, (VIN. Y, 8th digit, opt L76)
new body style, 4.3L, (VIN. X, 8th digit, opt LU3)
new body style, 4.8L, (VIN. C, 8th digit, opt LY2)

5.3L
2003-04 GMC Truck Envoy XL
2003-04 Isuzu Ascender
2003-04 Chevy TrailBlazer EXT (all with VIN "P", 8th digit)
2005-06 (all with VIN "M", 8th digit)

for those guys doing LS engine swaps, theres a whole bunch of different shorty headers
heres just a few of many

lssht1.jpg

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the problem with building a big block chevy based engine is simply that you need a bottomless checking account balance because theres dozens of company's with hundreds of products that can be purchased to build just about any conceivable combo if you have the bank balance to pay for the parts, and even cylinder heads that easily bolt on stock blocks can be purchased that will flow in excess of 500cfm on the intake ports if you have the cash.
the LS has a rather large aftermarket support base as well and theres some impressive heads available, but due to the basic block dimensions and stroke and bores size limits your never going to compete in total displacement with some of the aftermarket BBC offerings, but then again COST is a huge factor and EITHER engine design could easily cost you upwards of $15K to build a fairly robust example.

heres a 770 hp 454 cid LS based crate engine that costs $24K
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/cr ... 454-r.html

heres a 720hp, 572 cid big block crate engine for $14K
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19201334

DO YOU REMEMBER READING THESE ARTICLE'S?
salvage yard turbo LS builds are some thing that you might choose to look up and explore, keep in mind its NOT ABOUT PEAK POWER, but the POWER TO WEIGHT RATIO!
the HELLCAT weights about 4200lbs and with 707 flywheel hp thats about 6 lbs per hp, a 2900 lb z car would require about 500 hp to easily out accelerate the hellcat if properly set up


https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywik ... ardturbols

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/projec ... tive-fuel/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engine ... vy-hitter/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/projec ... s-salvage/

http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/how-to ... 1131506504

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/projec ... t#cxrecs_s

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/0901gm ... t#cxrecs_s

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/projec ... t#cxrecs_s

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/10 ... ls-engine/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrd ... e-install/

http://www.hotrod.com/news/1409-racing- ... mber-2014/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/150 ... rful-ever/
 
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i dont know if anything is actually BETTER than anything else, sbc/sbf/bbc/bbf/mopar hemi i think there are steps you can take with each motor design to make a real fun car that competitive at any level of street or race performance. shit, a 302 powered fox body with 350tq to the tire naturally aspirated and a 4.10 gear is a FUN STREET CAR and you go can go out and have a blast with a whole build costing you less than 5 grand depending on what caliber of car you started out buying. on the other hand i know guys who have three times that amount of money in their mustang, have beautiful cars with superlative paint and interior that makes you feel like you should take your shoes off to get inside, but they are slow moving as pond water. it all depends what your goals are and your budget is.

this guy obviously spent some money on his combination and right now the aftermarket is saturated with LS everything so thats what he went with... but there are plenty of BBC "phony pony" builds from years past that are fast as all hell too...
 
with regards to the crate motors you have to think that people look at a 120" smaller motor, with a shorter deck, with the aftermarket suport to bolt into anything, thats lighter, that makes 50 more hp... i mean i wouldnt buy a complete crate motor like that, probably ever, partially because i think alot of the parts on crate motors would need to be swapped out with ones i think are more reliable or make more power, and partly because i'll probably never have 25k to drop on anything, ever at one time like that.
 
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