Introduction

Discussion in 'introduce yourself' started by Ernest Shaw, Nov 9, 2018.

  1. Ernest Shaw

    Ernest Shaw Retired machinist

    Hello. Just wanted to pop in and introduce myself. I'm retired and enjoy working on my projects which include a ZR2 S10 that I'm attempting to install a small block Chevy into, complete with EFI, consisting of Tuned Port Injection. I also have a 82 C3 Corvette that will get modified in the future. Came here for information and suggestions later on.
     
  2. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Welcome aboard from Oklahoma!
     
  3. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    Welcome aboard from Belgium
     
  4. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Glad to have you! From Texas
     
  5. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Pictures of your project would be good!
     
  6. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

  7. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    welcome to the web site, we might have members located locally to you, posting
    pictures of your project and some idea of the area or city you live near would be helpful
     
  8. Ernest Shaw

    Ernest Shaw Retired machinist

    What's a simple way to post pictures to this site?
     
  9. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    When you post there is “upload a file”, to the right of “post reply” make sure you put in a space or the pics might overlap or you want to put in text to describe the pic.
     
  10. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Of course you have to give a location in your computer to upload the pic from, once you do it a few times it’s easy.
     
  11. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    If you have trouble, contact “Indycars”, he is our resident computer guru!
     
  12. Ernest Shaw

    Ernest Shaw Retired machinist

    Thanks for the welcome fellas. I live in Albia, IA. It's about 60 miles south of Des Moines. The truck is a work in progress, aren't they all? It's a 4x4 getting a vortec 5.7 installed with TPI injection. So far I've got the 4.3 removed and a dummy engine installed for mock up to work out the physical installation problems. Space is at a premium EVERYWHERE in the engine compartment! So far it seems the engine will physically fit with the radiator pushed fully forward into the radiator support with electric fans. I'm trying my best to use stock OE components where possible so no headers. I think I have the exhaust under control now using LT1 exhaust manifolds but I'm going to have to jog the steering shaft around the manifold on the drivers side a little. Needless to say I'll have to use some after market items for this, i.e, a heim support bearing to stabilize the dd shaft when I install another dd joint. Should work out good. We'll see. I'm also using a stock offset oil adapter from a Caprice 9C1 (cop car). They utilized an oil cooler also. Since the engine compartment is so compact on the driver side with front differential driveshaft, exhaust, and steering I'm using the offset adapter to position a small oil filter closer to the oil pan. Not an ideal situation but there is a rainbow. I'm going to use the 1/2 inch hard lines that ran to the cooler for mating up to a stock oil filter adapter that's located under the radiator support. Basically it will be a dual filtration system albeit divorced. I will employ a couple flex lines in between the two so the engine is still free to move even with the one filter assembly under the radiator support. The only thing I'm not real sure about is the bypass valves in the adapters. Should they be left stock or will any of them need removed????
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Ernest Shaw

    Ernest Shaw Retired machinist

    As you can see, thing get a little polluted in this area. I'm being very systematic about the changes I make so that it will be serviceable with the changes. So far I've removed the a/c since I rarely used it anyways which gives me more room on the passenger side and I installed a hydroboost unit on the drivers side to replace the large vacuum assist that was for the brakes. That frees up a lot of room on the fire wall.
     
  14. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Yikes that is crowed! Lots of pics will be appreciated sir!
     
  15. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Leave the bypass valves alone unless you use a Moroso Billet Oil bypass adapter with a K&N White Race Oil Filter.
    Broke the stock bypass on my 87 Corvette so I installed the Moroso Billet bypass adapter on because it's what I had on hand. No issues with a High flow K&N filter 4 years later.
     
  16. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    The Steering shaft can be made Skinner or smaller diameter to clear the drivers exhaust mainfold.
    It's Tubular steel on GM cars and trucks after 1964.
    You want to make it from solid A11 Tool steel. TIG weld in the middle.
    Or make it from 4130 - 4140 Chrome Moly TIG weld again.

    On my 1963 Pontiac Gp the steering shaft is one piece and 3 feet long.
    From the steering wheel down to the steering box . Rag joint on Saginaw Recirculating ball Power steering box input side.
    It's only 5/8" diameter but solid high alloy steel.
    I have a spare from a 1963 Pontiac how I know this.
     
  17. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Pull the air bags out before you start welding by the way.
    Chance of them going off otherwise.
     
  18. Ernest Shaw

    Ernest Shaw Retired machinist

    Thanks for the replies. That's good to know about the bypasses. I was hoping that would be the case. I'm still trying to incorporate a stock oil cooler from the Caprice. This stuff gets a little crowded with limited space. I did some measuring and the steering shaft is .75 inches on the flats. I stuck a 3/4 inch drive extension up and I don't think that will work, but that was just for comparison sake. The pic I posted of the drivers side shows my first attempt at the exhaust. It works but the manifold is pretty restrictive. Those manifolds are off an 82 low performance Camaro, that's why I'm switching to the LT1 setup if I can make it work. I'll put up some pics so you can see how they're working out.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Ernest Shaw

    Ernest Shaw Retired machinist

    Same side, but a side view. It has plenty of clearance now but I'm going to move the manifold to the passenger side about 3/8 inch more and back closer towards the firewall also. This will accommodate an adapter to aid in using all the bolt holes in the manifold since a passenger LT1 ex. manifolds have a exhaust bolt hole that is spaced out more than a typical chevy ex. manifold and the vortec heads don't have the extra bolt holes some of the chevy heads incorporate. This will still allow clearance when the engine and frame when the engine torques on it's mounts and coincidentally allow further clearance on the driver side for more clearance between the oil pan and the front differential. Yes, there is a method to my madness!
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Interesting project to me.
    I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer with a Bad 4.3 L V6.
    Finding a good 4.3 LV6 with less than 100,000 miles on it is impossible here.
    Has to Be Vortech 4.3 V6 made 1996-1999.
    My Blazer is 4x4 model.

    Read about 350 Chevy Swaps in them recent & LS Swaps.
    The Blazer is not worth much anymore, maybe $600-900 since tires are new on it 2011.

    One of crappiest Chevy engines ever made was that 4.3 L V6.
    Shitbox engine.

    Vortech 350s are hard to find now here.
    Last made installed production 1999 year.
    In my 1999 Chevy Tahoe 4x4.
     

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