Introduction

A

Andy Durrett

Member
Hello guys. I’m new to the forum, but I have been reading lots of good information from it for years. I am in the process of building a 496 stroker for my 1976 lwb c10. I am using a 2 bolt block with studs, mildly ported 781 heads, and a used lunati flat tappet (pn#40207). I am going to use a lunati voodoo 4340 crank, eagle fsi rods, and icon forged pistons (pn#9952). I will also be using a Holley 850 DP (pn#4781), edelbrock air gap, hooker super comp 2-1/8 headers, and a modified OEM HEI distributor with an MSD 6al-BTM. I am expecting at least 10:1 compression for use of pump gas. This is my first engine build and I am on a pretty tight budget. I got the block, heads, cam, carb, and headers for free. Let me know what you guys think, and please give me any advice that you think will help. Thanks
 
glad you decided to join the forum!
pictures of your car and projects would be nice
 
Welcome.
FREE scares me, because you might have just inherited someone's JUNK engine parts. I hope not for your sake.
Unless you KNOW the history of these parts, have everything inspected by a competent machine shop first!
 
Loves302Chevy said:
Welcome.
FREE scares me, because you might have just inherited someone's JUNK engine parts. I hope not for your sake.
Unless you KNOW the history of these parts, have everything inspected by a competent machine shop first!
Click to expand...
Absolutely. My dad ran ALL the parts with 427CID in a 1973 chevelle SS. When he sold the car, he took the engine out in perfect running condition and stored it correctly. The heads had 2.19/1.88 valves installed and some lunati springs and retainers. The heads and block are in the machine shop right now. My machine shop is Kittler’s automotive machine shop in Shreveport. It’s fairly reputable in the racing community from what I’ve heard.
 
Andy Durrett said:
Come on man, everyone knows that Texas is the best state!
I’d love to try out the Dynomation simulator. Just let me know what info you need.
Click to expand...
I guess will just have to disagree on the best state. hehehe ! Meet my wife when I lived in Houston for 2 years in the 80's.

Start a new thread in the Engine Combos and Dynometer Database section for the simulation.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?forums/engine-combos-and-dynometer-database.69/

Dynomation 6 Input Variables

Bore & Stroke:
Displacement: cubic inches
Rod Length:
Heads Make/Model with flow numbers:
Combustion Chamber Size in CC’s:
Dome Volume:
Valve Reliefs Volume:
Deck Clearance:
Head Gasket Bore:
Head Gasket Thickness:
Valve Sizes I/E:
Intake Manifold Model Type: [Single or Dual Plane]
Intake Model #:
Carburetor Size or EFI (CFM):
Blower/Turbo Make/Model #:
Belt Ratio:
SCR & DCR: Or the info to calculate SCR & DCR [ http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...comp-ratio-cranking-pressure-calculator.4458/ ]
Header Tube Diameter: (1-5/8", or , or)
Cam Card: Need all 8 valve timing events at seat-to-seat and at 0.050”, lobe lift.
Rocker Ratio:
Cam Installed per Cam Card, or Retarded or Advanced:
Rocker Ratio:
Fuel Used: Gasoline, Methanol, Ethanol, E85 .....
 
Andy Durrett said:
Hello guys. I’m new to the forum, but I have been reading lots of good information from it for years. I am in the process of building a 496 stroker for my 1976 lwb c10. I am using a 2 bolt block with studs, mildly ported 781 heads, and a used lunati flat tappet (pn#40207). I am going to use a lunati voodoo 4340 crank, eagle fsi rods, and icon forged pistons (pn#9952). I will also be using a Holley 850 DP (pn#4781), edelbrock air gap, hooker super comp 2-1/8 headers, and a modified OEM HEI distributor with an MSD 6al-BTM. I am expecting at least 10:1 compression for use of pump gas. This is my first engine build and I am on a pretty tight budget. I got the block, heads, cam, carb, and headers for free. Let me know what you guys think, and please give me any advice that you think will help. Thanks
Click to expand...
Update: The machine shop talked me into a Hydraulic roller. I agree with the choice 100%, as it would be devastating for a $50 used flat tappet cam to wipe out my whole engine. The cam I selected is a lunati hydraulic roller with lifters, PN#50250LK. The specs are as follows: ADV. Duration: 300/310; Duration @ .050: 242/252; Valve lift: .595/.612; 110 LSA. I am hoping for lots of torque from about 25-3000 RPM and up into the midrange. my rev limiter will be set @6500 RPM so running out of cam will not be a problem. Let me know what y'all think!
 
looks like progress is being made:D
what transmission, compression ratio, rear gear ratio, and tire diameter?
 
Grumpy said:
looks like progress is being made:D
what transmission, compression ratio, rear gear ratio, and tire diameter?
Click to expand...
I previously installed an old TCI TH400 with a deep pan and auxiliary cooler. It shifts crisply and doesn't leak, but the governor likes to stick and start in 3rd gear. I have a TCI 2410p Converter (~3000 stall), a custom 2-Piece Driveshaft from Precision Shaft Technologies with Solid Spicer U-Joints and a forged Pinion Yoke. I am going to run the stock OPEN 12 bolt truck rear with 3.73 gears until I can afford a Moser Ford 9 inch Housing and Axle package (I Already own a 3.50/posi/31 spline third-member). With the 23cc piston dome and 115-117cc milled combustion chambers, I will have at least 10:1, and at most 10.5:1 compression. Hopefully the cam has enough overlap and duration that I don't detonate. The Truck has 275/60/15 (28" O.D.) Hercules cheap-o tires that I put on soon after I drug the truck out of the weeds
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top