IT durability thats KEY in building a good engine

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
when ever I get into a discussion with many of the guys I build engines for, the younger guys especially seem to be captivated or primarily focused on the concept of having
" a RADICAL CAM, that rumbles at idle, or the new brand X heads that some magazine is pushing in the latest engine build article"

you can't have a consistent and reliable race wining combo,
if its constantly spending a great deal of time in the shop being repaired!
:facepalm:


BELOW AND IN THE ADDED POSTS,
you'll find dozens of LINKS and each link will have several sub links and even more sub-sub links ,:fingerscrossed:

it will take you a good deal of time and effort to read these but they contain decades of experience and hundreds of tips, :like:
so they are well worth the time and effort required to wade through and read carefully:like:
youll have many questions but the vast majority are answered BY reading those links and sub-links.
yeah! I know its normal to want to skip ahead or ignore the reading of links, your cheating yourself out of a great deal of knowledge and experience if you do that!



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-3007

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-picking-a-shop-to-do-work.5053/#post-33138


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...piston-to-bore-clearance-on-your-block.14251/
read
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-the-rabbit-hole-with-alice.10933/#post-66925


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-articles-you-might-want-too-look-over.14682/

link too bore vs stroke info on hundreds of engines
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablersn.htm

before you spend a good deal of money porting and un-shrouding any iron cylinder heads, keep in mind aluminum heads are easily repaired in a skilled and experienced automotive machine shop thats equipped to do those repairs but damaged iron cylinder heads are either much harder to repair or good door stops
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/iron-vs-aluminum-heads.389/#post-7266

LOOKING FOR A DECENT AUTO MACHINE SHOP, or BODY REPAIR, or CUSTOM SHOP??

the best route to take is by joining a local car club and talking to dozens of guys at the local car shows and rod runs and at the local tracks,
GO TO THE LOCAL TRACK, AND GO TO LOCAL CAR SHOWS<ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS, TALK TO LOTS OF PEOPLE, you'll eventually find out which machine shops AND BODY SHOPS do quality work and which do sloppy or slipshod work, or take money and never do the work correctly at times.
ALWAYS stamp your parts with your PH# number or some other ID and take clear detailed pictures and get signed receipts listed parts, dates,costs and expected work to be done and dates due and take a picture of the guy your talking to and get the receipt
look around the shop! if theres dozens of cars sitting outside , rusting, or stacks of greasy engines you probably don,t want your car joining them.
bustedvl.jpg

Its become almost a totally ignored concept,that the rather seldom mentioned sub systems, that prevent or reduce engine wear,systems that provide cooling, for engine oil, coolant and transmission fluid ,that control oil flow and pressure,and concepts like maintaining consistent effective cooling,or that a high capacity baffled oil pan and windage tray and oil pump design helps maintain,component lubrication,or thermal barrier coatings and proper heat control, are critical to durability, as are proper clearances, and selecting the best quality bearings and fasteners, and a quality valve train,components ,researching and then installing ,proper valve train and connecting rod,optimizing valve train geometry, will reduce stress on the components.
taking the time to get the rotating assembly low stress balanced , stress risers polished out and carefully verifying all the components are designed to function correctly in nearly the same power band at the same displacement and compression, matched to the correct calculated drive train are absolutely critical to longer term durability!

its the support sub systems and proper assembly that allow the engine to function, they may not be as glamorous as discussing how your buying the newest selection of cylinder heads and cams but without their proper operation your engine starts breaking parts in minutes.
put the time and effort required into researching, purchase and installation of the highest QUALITY MATCHED COMPONENTS you can afford!
While cheat sheets might have frowned upon in your sixth-grade classroom, we strongly encourage them in the garage, shop, or pits. That’s why we’ve put together this list of 13 key performance formulas you should know when building or tuning your street or race vehicle.
btw if youve managed to blow a head gasket on a 1986-91 TPI corvette with aluminum heads
the heads and block surfaces must be very carefully examined for damage or warping issues and if found those issues must be corrected, before any new head gaskets installed, over time steam can and will cut grooves in even cast iron blocks and rather easily in softer aluminum.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43962

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket-related.1859/#post-50617

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-sealant-goes-where.700/#post-43768

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-49297

many magnets lose their magnetic pull if heated to 200F
these below won,t

proper magnets trap metallic debris

SmCo Samarium Cobalt Disc Magnets
http://www.magnet4less.com/
enginemagn.jpg


http://www.magnet4less.com/product_...ucts_id=254&osCsid=ckl4nevgdrmireotnegg7jcf36

http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-magnets-dia-1x3-8-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/

Samarium Cobalt MAGNETS HELP
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-disk-magnet-dia-1x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/
magnets are ceramic and glass hard, don,t try to drill or grind them, as they can shatter
its not that difficult to remove the oil pan, replace the gasket with a new one piece synthetic one and cure that leak,
most guys can do that in a single afternoon with the car up on 4 12 ton jack stands rather easily.
be aware that the crank counter weights rotated to the correct location makes removing the oil pan a bit easier.
it might be a great opportunity to swap to a higher capacity baffled oil pan.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-240/overview/make/chevrolet/model/corvette
7" deep

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=11-102
6.5" deep


https://www.carid.com/moroso/oil-pa...MIraOQn-602QIVBJ7ACh2mTwt4EAQYAyABEgJZWfD_BwE

7" deep

theres lots of 8" and 8.25" deep corvette oil pans but they don,t last too long with speed bumps and raised manhole cover rims



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIytnIx-y02QIVHrjACh35mQ-OEAQYASABEgJnZvD_BwE

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...etic-oil-cause-leaky-gaskets.2725/#post-13817

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/page-4#post-69999

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-pan-gasket-still-small-leak.3084/#post-11971


http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/compression_calculator.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-calculator-links.7108/#post-27382

http://www.projectpontiac.com/ppsite15/compression-ratio-calculator

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm

http://performancetrends.com/Compression_Ratio_Calculator_V2.3.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php

http://www.pcengines.com.au/calculators/Calculate dynamic Comp Ratio.htm

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

http://www.diamondracing.net/tools/

https://www.uempistons.com/index.php?main_page=calculators&type=comp

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

Racing Carburetor CFM
Racing Carburetor CFM = RPM x Displacement ÷ 3456 x 1.1
Note: Summit Racing also offers this CFM Calculator to make the job easier.

Displacement
Displacement = .7854 x Bore2 x Stroke x Number of Cylinders

Correct Compression Ratio (CCR)
CCR = FCR (Altitude/1,000) x .2
Note: You can also take this Compression Ratio Calculator tool for a spin.

Tire Diameter
Tire Diameter = (MPH x Gear Ratio x 336) ÷ RPM

Rocker Arm Ratio and Valve Lift
Gross Valve Lift = Camshaft Lobe Lift x Rocker Arm Ratio

Horsepower
Horsepower = (RPM x Torque) ÷ 5,252

Torque
Torque = (5,252 x HP) ÷ RPM

Rod Ratio
Rod Ratio = Rod Length ÷ Crank Stroke Length

Average Piston Speed
Average Piston Speed = Crank Stroke x RPM ÷ 6

Rear Gear Ratio
Rear Gear Ratio = (RPM at Finish Line x Tire Diameter) ÷ (MPH x 336)
Note: You can also save this link to a handy Gear Ratio calculator.

Volume (CCs) of Deck Clearance
CCs of Deck Clearance = Bore x Bore x 12.87 x Depth of Deck Clearance

Volume (CCs) of Head Gasket
CCs of Head Gasket = Bore x Bore x 12.87 x Thickness of Head Gasket

Ive never yet had anyone start talking about the killer LUBRICATION or cooling system they want to install, or the need to match the intake manifold design to the cam timing and
you buy bearings only after carefully inspecting and measuring the bearing journals
only by having all the dimensions accurately measured and verified can you correctly select matching bearings
you seldom hear how they select cam specs to maximize cylinder scavenging or how they calculated the best thermal barrier coating for the combustion chamber and piston dome surfaces,or the need for an oil accumulator or the great water pump and 4" thick multi core aluminum radiator they are planing on installing, or the careful selection of matched baffled oil pan, oil pump and windage tray, or how the bearing clearances and journal surface prep were going to be set up to maximize bearing cooling and reduce friction. but its the careful matched selection of and care in assembly, that allows the engine to run for more than a few hours before parts fail.
Or how they were going to pay a bit more to get the rotating assembly balanced and verified as being accurate to 1/2 a gram vs the two gram balance that they were told it came with.
yes selecting a matching set of cylinder heads, cam, valve train,the stroker rotating assembly and that great engine block get 90% of your attention, but its the things like ARP main cap studs,getting the H series clevite, bearings correctly fitted and clearanced, carefully honing the bore walls and selecting the best connecting rods and pistons that will make a huge difference in the engines ability to withstand stress
TECH SUPPORT LINES, before you get over your head ASK QUESTIONS

look IM surely not trying to stop you from building a nice car but start with some basic skills and knowledge of the basic concepts

start here

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/down-the-rabbit-hole-with-alice.10933/

buy these four books and read thru them then watch the cd a few times

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD

.
JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

then read thru this carefully

http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/

then once youve got a few basics down proceed slowly and carefully and ask questions

Holley
Performance Products provides award-winning technical support via phone Monday through Friday, 8AM to 5PM CST @ 270 781-9741.

Lunati
technical support is availible by phone Monday through Friday 7AM to 5PM CST @
662 892-1500.

ERSON
http://www.erson-cams.com/AskTechForm.aspx?BrandID=7
http://www.erson-cams.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf

CROWER cams
http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml

CRANE CAMS
http://www.cranecams.com/

DART
http://www.dartheads.com/
\
BRODIX
http://www.brodix.com/
please call us at 479-394-1075 for technical support

TRICKFLOW
http://www.trickflow.com/emain.asp

EDELBROCK
If you need to speak with an Edelbrock technician by phone, please call 1-800-416-8628 from 7:00am to 5:00pm, Monday-Friday, PST.

ENGLE CAMS
http://www.englecams.com/index.php
Tel: (310) 450-0806
Fax: (310) 452-3753

ISKY CAMS
http://www.iskycams.com/
phone: 323.770.0930
fax: 310.515.5730

AIR FLOW RESEARCH
http://www.airflowresearch.com/
28611 W. Industry Drive
Valencia, California, USA 91355
tel: 877-892-8844
fax:661-257-4462

DEMON CARBS (Barry Grant Incorporated)
http://www.barrygrant.com/
Phone: (706) 864-8544
Fax: (706) 864-2206

ARIZONA SPEED/MARINE
http://azspeed.stores.yahoo.net/c4col981.html

MSD IGNITIONS
http://www.msdignition.com/
TECH LINE: 915-855-7123

Shafiroff Race Engines
http://www.ultrastreet.net/
Toll Free: 800.295.7142 • Phone: 631.218.7530

Ohio Crankshaft
5453 SR 49 S
Greenville, OH 45331
Toll Free: 800-333-7113
Local: 937-548-7113
Fax: 937-548-4603
http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html


http://www.kevko.net/ (KEVKO OIL PANS)
915 North Orient Street
Fairmont, Minnesota 56031
(507) 238-9633
(800) 770-3557

STEFS OIL PANS
http://www.stefs.com/stefsindex.htm
Stef's Performance Products
693 Cross Street
Lakewood, NJ. 08701
Phone ( 732 ) 367- 8700
fax: (732) 367-8793

MELLING OIL PUMPS
http://www.melling.com/
Customer Service: 517-787-8172 ext: 125

MOROSO
http://www.moroso.com/default.asp
call 203-458-0542, 203-458-0546

MILODON
http://www.milodon.com/index.asp
Telephone
Phone: (805) 577-5950
Fax: 805-577-7540

KB PISTONS
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/index2.php
1-800-648-7970

ARP
(BOLTS/STUDS)
http://www.arp-bolts.com/
800.826.3045

REED CAMS
http://www.reedcams.com/
770.474.6664

J&E PISTONS
http://www.jepistons.com/
714-898-9764

SCAT CRANKS
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/
310 370 5501

Schneider Cams
http://www.schneidercams.com/
(619) 297-0227

(TOOLS)
http://www.goodson.com/
800-533-8010

http://www.quartermasterusa.com/
847-540-8999

hays clutches
http://www.haysclutches.com/
216.688.8300


A few of MY favorite parts sources

http://www.survivalmotorsports.com/
248) 438-6900

http://www.dougherbert.com/
1-877-497-2787

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10001_10002_-1
1800-345-4545

http://www.summitracing.com/
1800-230-3030

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/
1800-262-5033


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-at-the-circle-track-suppliers-helps.10978/
DART BIG M BBC BLOCK
Features:
  • Siamesed Extra-Thick Cylinder Walls: Resists cracking and improves ring seal (minimum .300'' thick with 4.625'' bore).
  • Scalloped Outer Water Jacket Walls: Improves coolant flow around the cylinder barrels to equalize temperatures.
  • Four-Bolt Main Bearing Caps: In steel or ductile iron have splayed outer bolts for extra strength.
  • Crankshaft Tunnel: Has clearance for a 4.500'' stroke crank with steel rods without grinding.
  • True ''Priority Main'' Oil System: Lubricates the main bearings before the lifters.
  • Oil Filter Pad: Drilled and tapped for an external oil pump.
  • Rear Four-Bolt Cap: Uses standard oil pump and two-piece seal - no adapter required!
  • Lifter Valley Head Stud Bosses: Prevent blown head gaskets between head bolts.
  • External Block Machining: Reduces weight without sacrificing strength.
  • Simplified Install : Fuel pump boss, clutch linkage mounts and side & front motor mounts simplfy installation on any chassis.
  • Dual Oil Pan Bolt Patterns: Fits standard and notched oil pans.
  • Bellhousing Flange and Rear Main Bearing: Reinforced with ribs to resist cracks.
  • Note: Does not include cam bearings, freeze plugs, or dowels
if your going to use a valve train cooling oil flow to cool the valve springs ,you may want to consider other options like a transmission fluid cooler and an oil accumulator
(I'LL POST RELATED SUB-LINKS BELOW)
12519_4_.jpg


I find it rather amazing that many guys (even a few corvette owners) don,t realize that the oil cooler between the block and oil filter does remove a noticeable amount of heat from the engine oil, or that in some cases that they even have an oil cooler factory installed. ITS OIL FLOW that absorbs and initially transfers heat away from the bearings and valve train not coolant.
my 1985 corvette came with a factory oil cooler, that runs engine coolant through separate but contacting internal passages, this warms the oil faster getting it flowing but tends to reduce the heat engine oil can reach as it absorbs oil heat effectively transferring it too the engine coolant on the car, where its transferred too air flow through the radiator
1985oilc1.jpg

VETTECOOL1.jpg

VETTECOOL2.jpg

VETTECOOL3.JPG

VETTECOOL4.jpg


you'll need to dissipate the heat that oil flow collects as it runs over the surface of those hot valve springs and a combination of a higher capacity baffled oil pan ,
cantonbbcoilpan.png

and an auxiliary oil cooler to make transferring the absorbed heat load the oil carries away from the upper engine is almost 100% mandatory if your expecting the oil to cool the valve train for very long.
Id point out that you'll almost certainly want to use an oil cooler that's as large as you have room to effectively use and having a powered fan to increase air flow and heat transfer efficiency will help, bu remember the line size between the engine cooler and back to the engine will generally slightly restrict flow so, I,d advise at least a AN#8 or 1/2" internal cross sectional, size oil or hydraulic lines designed to handle 300F temps and pressure levels with a significant safety margin above what the engine produces, and having large remote mounted oil filter(s) won,t hurt either.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
think about it a bit, the ideal trans coolant temp should be in the 150F-160F range, so how you route the trans fluid cooler lines maters, engine coolant can easily run 210F-230F going into the top of the radiator, from a hot engine and run 170F-180F returning too the engine after its trip through the radiator, thats more likely to heat than cool transmission fluid.
having an aux trans cooler with an electric powered fan and AN#8 minimum line size is generally a very good idea!(obviously you need to have the clearance and location to mount it
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15960
der-15950_w.jpg


diagramoilroute.gif

OR
out of trans, to radiator cooler, out to
aux cooler, back to trans?
cooler+diagram.jpg


Yes they make dual transmission fluid and oil coolers so you might want to consider that option if you have an automatic transmission and Id sure suggest a fluid temp gauge that accurately measures transmission fluid and a separated gauge for oil temperatures.
prm-12318.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-12318
IM currently using this transmission fluid cooler on my 1985 corvette but have used others in the past, and a dual cooler like this certainly has some advantages , if you need both oil and transmission fluid cooling.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-13311
prm-13311%20(1).jpg

Adding a high quality transmission and oil cooler with low flow restriction 1/2" MINIMUM ID lines can markedly increase engine longevity and durability
TrannyLinesPicture-1.gif

most hydraulic supply shops will fabricate lines to your exact length and use the correct fittings and hose types to allow over 1000psi and 300F fluid temps, if you do a bit of reserch youll find a couple hydraulic supply shops locally
ENGINE OIL, & TRANS FLUID COOLERS CAN BE VERY EFFECTIVE AT REDUCING FLUID TEMPS
oilcoolertempsp.png


this is one reason why combining both the engine oil cooler and transmission fluid cooler in a single dual unit is not always ideal,in every car, as an example on my corvette I found that I did need an oil cooler but did need a trans cooler , because once I installed a custom 10 qt oil pan on my 383 the oil temp stayed in the desired range due to the pans much larger surface area and the and much larger capacity, but the transmission fluid due to the 3200 stall speed converter did need to be cooled
mocal-ot2.jpg

4050-animation-small_zps4471668c.gif

http://www.thinkauto.com/oilstats.htm

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13021/?rtype=10

http://static.summitracing.com/global/i ... _15721.pdf
coolertstat.jpg

oilstaty.png

If your going to run an effective oil cooler with a fan you'll generally want a thermostat controlling oil temps to be sure the oils neither too hot or too cold, you'll generally want the oil to rather rapidly heat to a 200F-21fF range during normal operation,to insure its hot enough to boil off moisture , and reduce sludge but run through the cooler to prevent it getting over about 220F where the temp tends to degrade lubrication efficiency

don,t forget that oil flow rates, and reducing the transmission fluid temp in the lower radiator on cars equipped with an automatic transmission, have a big effect on engine cooling so adding a trans or oil cooler helps engine durability
Loves302Chevy
posted these diagrams that will be helpful

autotransf1.jpg

autotransf2.gif


TRANSMISSION FLUID OR OIL COOLER LINES FABRICATED BY YOUR LOCAL HYDRAULIC SUPPLY
CE08122-lrg.jpg

TEND TO BE FAR STRONGER AND MORE DURABLE THAN
transline1%60.JPG
`

THE HOSE AND CLAMPS I SEE USED OCCASIONALLY
http://www.universalhoseandfittings.com/product_p/ha08-mnpt-mnpt-1.htm
When having a machine shop do any work, always ALWAYS get everything in detailed writing before you start,
specifying all machine work, to be done in detail,list parts and labor costs, mandate a delivery due dates and have every single part you supply ID stamped, and photographed, have all the work too be done and parts individually listed and a value assigned, with both YOU and the machine shop having identical signed copys
listing the cost and dates and work details

CALCULATORS TO PLAY WITH
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-55314

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...it-in-writing-dated-signed-and-pictures.4786/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...embling-an-engine-correctly.10363/#post-43806

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...et-for-tracking-your-machine-shop-costs.3423/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/machine-work-costs.3169/#post-8452

a few links may help here
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-filters-related-info.2080/#post-54352

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/transmission-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/replacing-trans-fluid.10749/#post-46958

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/not-getting-oil-to-rockers.4537/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?forums/cams-heads-and-valve-trains.52/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/auto-cooling-system-flow-rates-and-heat-transfer.9880/#post-37712

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-oiler-cooling.8463/#post-29691

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-accumulator.1280/#post-48139

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/custom-windage-tray.10490/#post-44199

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-pumps-pressure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/4567-chevrolet-big-block-engine-generations/

that RUMBLE,in the exhaust note, they all value is mostly the result of low rpm air flow reversion,it takes TIME for airflow to fill a cylinder, and as the rpms increase that time is greatly reduced, at 1000rpm, the cylinder fills and empty's about 8.3 times a second , valve timing, controlled by the cam lobe duration, is generally in the 200 degrees of crank rotation range, but a cam with that limited duration will not allow efficient air flow through the cylinder at higher rpms.
at 7000rpm your popping those valves open and closed 58 times a second, and cam duration needs to be increased from a stock cams 200 degree duration range to something closer to 265-280 degrees to allow effective air flow, but that also results in both the intake and exhaust valves remaining open for 30-50 degrees at the same time and at lower engine speeds the inertia in the exhaust and intake tracks is rather low resulting in some old exhaust,being pushed back into the cylinder as the piston tries to push out the old spent exhaust gases out the still open exhaust valve while the intake valve is starting to open, this tends to dilute the intake charge, and the engine basically chokes on the fouled mix of UN-ignitable compressed gases

Duration_v_RPM-Range_wIntakeManifold01.jpg

CamUsageChart01.jpg




Id also point out that cam timing matched to the exhaust scavenging has a huge effect on potential intake flow rates
exhaustpressure.jpg

EXFLOWZ4.jpg

pistonposition2a.jpg



volumetric.gif

there seems to be an almost total lack of understanding,of how and why a certain cams matched to other components. radical cams sound the way they do because they are built with longer duration and faster lobe acceleration ramps the increase the speed the valve train operates at per degree of rotation,or increase the lift on a cam lobe ramp per degree of rotation, and this increase in valve speed comes at the expense of what can be greatly increased inertial loads that generally can cause noticeably faster wear , or in some cases almost a designed in impending parts breakage within a very short life span, on the valve train components and at some point, a lack of predictable control over consistent and reliable valve train movement.

as any engineer will point out as the rpms increase the stress on moving parts increases but the stress is not directly equal to the rpm , IE double the rpm=double the stress, its more like double the rpm and square the stress, plus stress on components is cumulative, push parts to near maximum critical stress levels and eventually they fail, even if they don,t quite push over the original stress fail point.
P12CHARTS.jpg

fakearp3.png


a film of warm pressurized oil and assembly lube being constantly pushed to flow over and between the moving components can prevent them from physically wearing each surface, and assembly lube with a moly base can provide a slick low friction surface for the moving components The Moly platelets that make up the protective layers on your engine surfaces slide across one another very easily. Instead of metal rubbing against metal, you have Moly platelets moving across one another protecting and lubricating the metal engine parts.
but keep in mind that the spring pressures required to maintain valve train control at higher rpms place a significant load on those sliding surfaces.
This coating effectively fills in the microscopic pores that cover the surface of all engine parts, making them smoother. This feature is important in providing an effective seal on the combustion chamber. By filling in the craters and pores Moly improves this seal allowing for more efficient combustion and engine performance.
nosqueeze.jpeg

This overlapping coating of Moly also gives protection against loading (perpendicular) forces. These forces occur on the bearings, and lifters. The high pressures that occur between these moving parts tend to squeeze normal lubricants out.

changing the oil filter after an hour or so of run time, and use of several magnets in the engine will reduce the potential for trash in the oil.

the fact is that many times selecting a slightly milder cam with a bit less lift and more gradual cam lobe acceleration ramp speeds can go a long way toward reducing valve spring failures and increasing valve train stability,yes it might cost you 5-10 peak horse power but the careful trade off could easily triple or quadruple the engines expected life span

If you've ever hit a speed bump in the road thats meant to slow traffic, at several different speeds, you know theres a very noticeable relationship between the speed somethings moving and time it takes for inertia and mass of a moving object to change, direction when force is applied thru the use of a ramp changing its path of movement, and the resulting increase in shock to the components as the rate of that change over a shorter time is applied.
a speed bump is similar to a cams lobe acceleration ramp, in that it lifts the lifter/valve against spring resistance similar to your cars wheel hitting the speed bump.
a cams lobe design can rather gradually or rather suddenly impart a change in direction to the lifter in its bore and effect the speed at which the valve lifts off its seat or returns to a closed position, but that ramp design has a huge effect on the stress the valve train is subjected to as the speed of engine rotation is increased.
just like your car hitting the speed bump in the road, theres a big difference at 7 miles per hour vs 70 miles per hour, and a cam lobe that pops the valves open at idle speed of 700rpm,imparts far less stress than the same lobe spinning at 7000rpm.
naturally every choice is a compromise, lower lifts and smoother low acceleration rates make for long life and lower stress but restrict the potential area open under the valve per degree of rotation, which restricts potential breathing of the engine.
rapid ramp acceleration rates tend to increase potential hp but impart higher stress

Isky claims that the Comp XE cams violate the 47.5% rule.

The 47.5% rule applies to flat tappet cams for SBCs with 1.5 rockers but the concept is still the same for other configurations where the designs are "on the edge" or "over the edge" for lobe intensity.
For 1.5 ratio SBCs, the duration at .50 must exceed 47.5% of the total valve lift or your asking valve train problems.
For example, take a Comp Cams Magnum 280H, with 230 duration and, 480 lift...230/.480 = 47.9% which exceeds 47.5% therefore would not pose a threat to components.
We do not regularly hear about the older, safer HE and Magnum designs rounding off lobes anywhere near as often as the XE cam designs.
Unfortunately, some of the Comp Cams XE dual pattern lobes break this 47.5% rule on the intake side so they are likely to be problematic.
The design has "steeper" ramps that are too quick for durability and reliability according to most other cam manufacturers.
They will wipe lobes in a heart beat especially if you have not followed the proper break-in procedure.
Other designs are more forgiving during break-in and less likely to fail.

If they're considered an expert among peers (engine builders) they already have work, probably more than they can handle,
and loose some work because they're backed up a bit already. So they don't need the advertising anyway.

that IS VERY TRUE, I know from experience that there's ALWAYS been more people who want engines built than I, or any other shop that developed a reputation for doing quality work, could come close to handling,
the issue I found long ago is that very few really want to take the time required or get personally involved, or pay for the time and attention to detail it requires.
If you get someone personally involved with a hands on approach , where you explain every step, the options and costs and THEY pay for the machine work or DO the work themselves they get a FAR better understanding of why it takes time and money to do the job correctly, and if they see a $2300 labor bill they don,t instantly think
(IM BEING RIPPED OFF)
but rather, DAMN that's reasonable' for all the time and supplies that required.
I don,t think I,d want to do that for that little money!

the basic fact is, that as an engine builder there's two extremes,
AS an engine builder ,you need to find a compromise
between knocking piece work out like cookies,
where I see many shops operate,like this,
where they basically take a gasket set,
some engine components and sealants and start bolting together parts.
this requires minimal time or knowledge and results in an engine build,
where you really don,t give a a rats ass if it does much more than run without breaking down,

and the shops taking the time and effort to maximize every facet and check every components fit finish and function,
which if done correctly would result in labor time charges alone, in a cost that would quadruple an engine ,
normal machine shop assembly's cost average.
theres always going to be a big difference between
close enough so it won,t cause problems and
DAMN NEAR PERFECT,
AS IT WAS HUMANLY POSSIBLE TO GET IT,
WITHIN EVEN A SEMI REASONABLE BUDGET LIMIT.

the problem, is that unless your checking account balance, won,t notice the cost, like
Jay-lenno and have an on site machine shop and staff, you always are forced to cut expenses, not select the best possible parts,
and you can,t ignore the time and labor costs, you make a compromise, someplace.

PARTS MUST CONSTANTLY BE RE-CLEANED

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related info
READ THROUGH THIS LINK

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/dynamic-vs-static-compression.727/#post-32136

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...connecting-rod-compatability.9320/#post-33722

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-i-get-it-polished.9214/#post-33116

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/#post-34570

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thrust-bearing-wear.619/#post-37676

http://arp-bolts.com/p/instructions.php

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-to-look-for-in-a-good-engine-combo.9930/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-rod-strength-h-vs-i-beam.1168/#post-41255


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/




http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1206phr-383ci-small-block-chevy/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/76178-chevrolet-ht-383-engine/

http://www.enginelabs.com/news/dyno-video-qmp-builds-500-horse-383-stroker/

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/building-the-little-383-small-block-that-could/

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-c...-block-in-six-easy-steps-hot-rod-magazine.pdf


you tend to have to watch a couple dozen guys assemble engines and, do it while you pay real attention, and/ or
watch several dozen similar videos to get that perspective and pick up the little differences and omissions in how each guy approaches and completes the process.
yes youll undoubtedly see some guys skip over or ignore things that other guys feel are critical, but if you pay attention and really think things through and stop and ask your self
(why is that guy bothering to take the time to bevel that bearing edge)
or
(why is that guy verifying the oil pump stud does NOT touch the rear main cap bearing shell)
, or
(what the hell is a thrust bearing?)
(what was the oil pump drive shaft to distributor gear clearance?)
(what were those rod and main bearing clearances?)
(how did he verify the piston to bore clearance?)
(how do you verify rod bolt clamp or stretch?)
(how do you get the damn damper on)
(what the hell is quench)
(compression height?)
(maximizing ring seal to bore)
(what do you mean don,t beat on that damper?)

engine assembly is mostly the hard logical application of physical science with a bit of intuition, where the engine assembly technician and engineering testing is used to verify exactly what is and what is not functioning as its intended too.
the fact is that the engineers and computer simulations can get things about 80% -to-85% to being as close to ideal, but the fact is the guys that control production costs and emission controls will always have some input and the production engineers will make cost reducing changes in the designs, the individual engine builder will get their hands on the O.E.M., engines and find ways to TWEAK, the as delivered engines to produce even better results, then the aftermarket will take a long hard look and start figuring out ways that they could further boost power with less concern for cost and emissions and a bit more concern for power output, then the engine builders will take those parts and TWEAK those parts and the cycle will continue several times until the original engines design has markedly been improved.
I helped on of the local guys write out detailed instructions, had him stamp his major parts
23301a.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-3 ... 60669.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-38-in-steel-letternumber-stamping-set-63675.html

with his last name on the block oil pan rails, crank flange and crank counter weights, cylinder heads, etc. and had him take a dozen clear picture's, of the engine components he was dropping off at the local machine shop, I strongly suggested he have a detailed list of what was to be done, the cost and a firm date set as to the expected completion of the work and to get a signed copy for both the machine shop and him to keep on hand, I don,t think this will be an issue simply because its the same machine shop I generally use and the guys rather familiar with my process and dozens of previous engine builds, but I've found through long years of experience, that if you don,t get a firm price listed exactly detailing the work to be done, and delivery date and yes you,ll need too keep, a signed copy of detailed work to be done, the machine work tends to constantly either get put off as more urgent work from other customers is brought in, or the work is only partially completed and not finished or the prices tend to increase far higher than originally quoted.
it seems that most machine shops don,t want to make firm price or delivery date commitments and they have in some cases a habit of loosing or miss placing parts that were not listed and one you don,t have a picture of.
most machine shops seem to work on, a
" stop back in a week or so, it should be done by then"
and "that should cost about $xxx ..
but we have to see whats required on time and materials used basis"

if you don,t nail down a firm date and price
and all the details it could and usually will take well over a month,
and easily cost significantly more than you were quoted.
now obviously as parts are inspected prices and work required could change,
but you want the machine shop to keep you up to date on exactly,
whats being done, and the cost and changes in expected delivery dates.
BTW it seldom hurts to try to be friendly and ask for the machinists advice,
and complement him if he does good quality work ,
thats delivered at the agreed date and price,
and let him know you appreciate the skills, and on time delivery

yes you do tend to find that the good quality work costs more.
but the real cost of cheap work is far higher in many cases,
especially when something fails resulting in catastrophic damage.
a good machinist will generally, point out the inspections, tests and checks,
required to build an engine thats far less likely to have problems.
keep in mind that if you fail to take that advice and skip adding mods like,
the proper baffled oil pan, several machining and clearance checks,
or buying the parts, that best match the intended rpm/power range, you run a larger risk of failure.
I've regularly had guys I built engines for ignore suggested components and substitute cheaper parts.
in a few cases this results in rather badly mis-matched parts.(or skipping suggested machine work)
yes you may save several hundred dollars if you select to port stock heads rather than buy aftermarket heads
or use a stock crank, vs a 200%-to-300% plus stronger aftermarket components.


READ THE LINKS AND SUB LINKS
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-59253

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/machine-shop-sequencing.4460/#post-11720

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52469

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/causes-of-bearing-failure.2727/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-install-tips.3449/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52466

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-i-get-it-polished.9214/#post-33116

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-balancing.3900/#post-28672

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...uring-crank-bearing-journals.5478/#post-16429

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/#post-15727

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-oil-feed-holes-in-cranks.4419/#post-11685

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-t-anyone-ever-ask-or-check.11532/#post-53260

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-rings-in-piston-grooves.9490/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/don-t-beat-that-damper.83/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-plan-for-quench.11298/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-crush.10213/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...guess-on-clearances-and-journal-surface.9955/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-to-match-the-cam-specs.11764/#post-55571

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thoughts-on-cooling.149/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-piston-ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-piston-pin-height-compression-height.5064/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/
I've found BRODIX I.K. heads are very good quality, and decent value per dollar,
for a high performance street/strip style engine
https://craftperformanceengines.com...nder-Heads--brodix_cylinder_heads_sbc_ik.html
brodixik.png


trickflow 230cc makes a good racing sbc head choice
trickflow230.png

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-3241t001-c03

profiler 210cc is a good compromise race and street strip head
https://www.profilerperformance.com/176-sbc-23-degree-heads.html
176-210cc.png




https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afr-1055/overview/make/chevrolet
http://www.airflowresearch.com/210cc-sbc-race-cylinder-head/
afr210cc.png



related info
USE THE CALCULATORS to match port size to intended rpm levels... but keep in mind valve lift and port flow limitations[/color]
http://www.wallaceracing.com/runnertorquecalc.php
http://www.wallaceracing.com/ca-calc.php
http://www.wallaceracing.com/area-under-curve.php
http://www.wallaceracing.com/chokepoint.php
http://www.wallaceracing.com/header_length.php


https://www.profilerperformance.com/176-sbc-23-degree-heads.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...olishing-combustion-chambers.2630/#post-48319

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-flow-heads-the-best-choice.9415/#post-34274

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...good-street-combo-your-after.5078/#post-14433

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/more-port-flow-related-info.322/#post-722
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119651.jpg

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a couple known dependable engine builders
http://www.lewisracingengines.com/

http://www.straubtechnologies.com/

http://vortecpro454.com/


http://www.shafiroff.com/
 
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Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
GRUMPY ?
IM rather new to engine building and could use a few tips,
and after skimming the web site this looks like I might have found a source for tips, and/or info that helps get me started

sure glad to help,
it helps if you buy a few related books











I go thru this with local guys frequently, and the same question's come up every time
Id start by asking yourself a few questions and
ANSWERING THEM HONESTLY

WHAT DO YOU INTEND TO DO WITH THE CAR ONCE ITS UP AND RUNNING?

WILL IT BE A DAILY DRIVER AND WILL IT NEED TO PASS EMISSION TESTING ?

WHAT ARE YOUR REALISTIC BUDGET AND TIME FRAME LIMITATIONS?

HOW MUCH OF THE WORK ARE YOU COMFORTABLE DOING YOURSELF
(AND KNOW YOU CAN DO AS WELL OR BETTER THAN SENDING T OUT)?

WILL YOU BE HAPPY WITH THE RESULT OR WILL YOU ALWAYS WISH YOU HAD DONE SOMETHING DIFFERENT?
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