one of my neighbors kids stopped by this morning to ask if I could look over his car as it seems the battery voltage was low and he was having trouble jumping the battery,and he needed to get to work.
I drove over to his house and he had a car idling with a crappy set of auto store jumper cables between his truck and the car, a quick check showed there was no voltage transfer because the cheap cables had a bad connection in the clamps, (obviously from corrosion/age, as they were blue/green and had a partially melted connector clamp.
I'm always amazed at the guys that buy crappy, discount store, jumper cables, but after asking several guys it became rather obvious that many guys figure that low cost is a huge plus because they simply rarely use jumper cables.
the same could be said about bullet resistant vests, but in both cases when the product is used it damn sure needs to function as its designed too!
and most guys don,t understand why the larger ga cables cost a great deal more.
larger cables carry the heavier amp loads and transfer the amps more effectively without the high resistance of the smaller cables, that causes many of the small & cheap designs to heat up excessively at times.
well, the larger the gauge, the more copper is used in the connector cables, and copper costs a good deal more than aluminum used in the cheapest cables sets, plus a good set will be 20-22 feet long with 2 ga copper wire a cheap set could cost less than 1/5 the cost of a quality set but be only 12-16 feet long and made from 10-8 gauge wire with flimsy thin stamped clamps and on the better cables the clamps tend to be MUCH higher quality, and insulated except for the jaws surface.
wire gauge size varies and something like a 4 ga is far smaller than a 1/0 ga copper cable
I installed my jumper cables and there was an instant difference in the sound of the car that was providing the jumping current and within 2 minutes he could start his truck, he said he had been trying to jump the car with his jumper cables for over an hour, and never realized the cables were defective.
STEP 1: Connect one end of the Positive(+) cable to the Positive(+) post of the dead battery.
STEP 2: Connect the other end of the Positive(+) cable to the Positive(+) post of the good battery.
STEP 3: Connect one end of the Negative(-) cable to the Negative(-) post of the good battery.
STEP 4: Connect the other end of the Negative(-) cable to a good solid SHINY, NON PAINTED metal part of the engine on the dead car. Usually a giant shiny nut on the engine block will do. A painted, dirty, or oily nut will not work. You usually want to avoid placing the Negative(-) cable directly on the dead battery to minimize the chance for explosions. You should only use the ground post on the dead battery as a last resort. On this step you'll get a normal spark as you connect the ground and complete the circuit.
http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...P170939.aspx?gclid=CIqRl4uM4swCFQusaQodgYwPDg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/XYZ-AABC06-16/
$16
heres some decent 2 ga copper cable jumper cables
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BCX220/
$109
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p- ... 00183.aspx
$89
READ
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/jumpstart.htm
If you find its the cars alternator thats at fault, before just replacing the O.E.M. alternator you may want to UPGRADE to a 200 amp alternator that puts out a good deal more current that the stock alternator does in most cases
theres no reason you can,t convert to a one wire alternator if you do the required modifications to your wiring in the car, read this
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... wire.shtml
these guys sell an alternator Ive used on several corvettes with excellent results
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c- ... 0-amp.aspx
one wire
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c- ... 0-amp.aspx
good related info
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=355&p=436#p436
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1169&p=5267&hilit=corvette+alternator#p5267
I drove over to his house and he had a car idling with a crappy set of auto store jumper cables between his truck and the car, a quick check showed there was no voltage transfer because the cheap cables had a bad connection in the clamps, (obviously from corrosion/age, as they were blue/green and had a partially melted connector clamp.
I'm always amazed at the guys that buy crappy, discount store, jumper cables, but after asking several guys it became rather obvious that many guys figure that low cost is a huge plus because they simply rarely use jumper cables.
the same could be said about bullet resistant vests, but in both cases when the product is used it damn sure needs to function as its designed too!
and most guys don,t understand why the larger ga cables cost a great deal more.
larger cables carry the heavier amp loads and transfer the amps more effectively without the high resistance of the smaller cables, that causes many of the small & cheap designs to heat up excessively at times.
well, the larger the gauge, the more copper is used in the connector cables, and copper costs a good deal more than aluminum used in the cheapest cables sets, plus a good set will be 20-22 feet long with 2 ga copper wire a cheap set could cost less than 1/5 the cost of a quality set but be only 12-16 feet long and made from 10-8 gauge wire with flimsy thin stamped clamps and on the better cables the clamps tend to be MUCH higher quality, and insulated except for the jaws surface.
wire gauge size varies and something like a 4 ga is far smaller than a 1/0 ga copper cable
I installed my jumper cables and there was an instant difference in the sound of the car that was providing the jumping current and within 2 minutes he could start his truck, he said he had been trying to jump the car with his jumper cables for over an hour, and never realized the cables were defective.
STEP 1: Connect one end of the Positive(+) cable to the Positive(+) post of the dead battery.
STEP 2: Connect the other end of the Positive(+) cable to the Positive(+) post of the good battery.
STEP 3: Connect one end of the Negative(-) cable to the Negative(-) post of the good battery.
STEP 4: Connect the other end of the Negative(-) cable to a good solid SHINY, NON PAINTED metal part of the engine on the dead car. Usually a giant shiny nut on the engine block will do. A painted, dirty, or oily nut will not work. You usually want to avoid placing the Negative(-) cable directly on the dead battery to minimize the chance for explosions. You should only use the ground post on the dead battery as a last resort. On this step you'll get a normal spark as you connect the ground and complete the circuit.
http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...P170939.aspx?gclid=CIqRl4uM4swCFQusaQodgYwPDg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/XYZ-AABC06-16/
heres some decent 2 ga copper cable jumper cables
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BCX220/
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p- ... 00183.aspx
READ
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/jumpstart.htm
If you find its the cars alternator thats at fault, before just replacing the O.E.M. alternator you may want to UPGRADE to a 200 amp alternator that puts out a good deal more current that the stock alternator does in most cases
theres no reason you can,t convert to a one wire alternator if you do the required modifications to your wiring in the car, read this
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... wire.shtml
these guys sell an alternator Ive used on several corvettes with excellent results
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c- ... 0-amp.aspx
one wire
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c- ... 0-amp.aspx
good related info
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=355&p=436#p436
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1169&p=5267&hilit=corvette+alternator#p5267
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