just want some reassurance on combo choices

perhaps thats true... time well spent so you don,t make dozens of mistakes RICK avoided
 
Rick ask the required questions, did high quality work and as a result has a car thats both street drive friendly,
and potentially can run in the higher 10 second et range ,
if the suspension, tires and transmission hold up to the engines power curve.
 
Rick ask the required questions, did high quality work and as a result has a car thats both street drive friendly,
and potentially can run in the higher 10 second et range ,
if the suspension, tires and transmission hold up to the engines power curve.
Yes, it was a very nice thorough thought out setup. I enjoyed reading it
 
Rick ask the required questions, did high quality work and as a result has a car thats both street drive friendly,
and potentially can run in the higher 10 second et range ,
if the suspension, tires and transmission hold up to the engines power curve.
After the past year be best not to ever race it again.
Drive and cruise.
Lacking all safety gear to run 10s and not get killed.
Lacking Drag Race Parts I know 1st hand from experience is needed and works.
 
I have to point out I have 50 plus years devoted to gaining knowledge ,
about how you succeed at building reliable engines,and I pay a great deal of attention to the successful combos ,
and I've taken the effort too learn why the less successful combos failed.
now the truth is Ive made more than my full share of mistakes, but unlike most people,
I learn from my mistakes and the mistakes made by others and don,t generally repeat them.
I also take the time and effort to find out why parts fail, or why various mis-matched components don,t work well.
that seems to be a rather unique skill, from what I've seen.
if you take the time and effort required to read enough threads and linked info you'll see a pattern emerge!
its based on a concept that its far better to sacrifice a few peak potential horse power if thats required,
if that change can make a very noticeable improvement in the engines long term durability!
or as SMOKEY YUNICK used to say, the most important characteristic in building a race winning combo,
is simply that the most successful engine combo is based on an engine that has to finish the race in good running condition.
that in no way should be read as I can,t build a kick-butt engine with massive power, it just means that rock solid durability ,
takes presidence over adding a few additional peak, bragging hp, and a wide torque curve in the intended rpm range ,
adequate lubrication, cooling and staying out of detonation, and proper exhaust scavenging and a stable valve train,
are factors that take a far higher level of concern than bragging rights on a dyno.
or put differently, do it correct the first time, use the best parts you can afford , check your clearances, mandate 100% durability,
and strive for max torque in the intended rpm range, and let the hp numbers fall where they may!
Ive build almost 200 engines now over the last 50 years, and I can,t remember anyone having one fail unless they did something stupid,
like forget to check oil or coolant levels too repeatedly try to hit absurdly high rpms on a frequent recurring basis.
piston speed should be kept under about 4500 fpm, and even that should not be done constantly.
most engine failures are the result of valve train component or rotating component failures,
use of parts not designed for the stress levels,
detonation or lack of proper clearances and lubrication and lack of proper cooling,
control those factors and your engine lasts considerably longer


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/redline.343/#post-15729

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/matching-the-combo.11020/#post-48707

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-45493

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rod-bolts-rpm-vs-stress.341/#post-30778

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-oil-feed-holes-in-cranks.4419/#post-11637

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/#post-22981
 
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if you look at the facts here,
the 200r4 did not fail under stress, or during a race or hard launch, or towing a heavy load or on a long trip in country with lots of hills to climb, and the cars weight and lack of decent traction acts like a fail/safe or fuse,
limiting any shock loads as the tires are much more likely to loose traction before the transmission start's puking its internals.
due to not being able to handle the current engines power / torque .
no, from all the evidence, that was previously posted,
the transmission simply had failed because the shifter / gear selection controls were not properly adjusted prior to starting the engine,
or the cooling lines and coolant level and type of transmission fluid was not functioning correctly.
this is far more common that you might think, and as a result I suggest a good amount of time spent in researching proper cooling accessories, like trans fluid coolers and linkage adjustment be done prior to starting any new engine & trans install.
Ricks doing an exemplary job in refurbishing the 200r4 transmission, and its cooling lines and shifter linkages etc.

and if its properly re-installed and adjusted prior... to that engine being restarted,
I doubt Ricks going to have issues, and now that hes found a source for even more replacement parts and has gained considerable experience rebuilding ,
that 200r4 I would be rather foolish to not give the new re-built transmission a second chance at providing the car with a long happy life.
now just as obviously, if the engine does prove to overwhelm the transmissions ability to provide the car with dependable power transfer characteristics,
looking into how and why components should be upgraded would be a sensible route to look into further.
personally I don,t think Rick's likely to have continuing issues simply because the same basic 200r4 transmission ,
has been used behind the turbo v6 engines an significantly heavier cars with similar horse power.
the 200r4 is a well proven transmission, with an over drive top gear ratio, which is similar the the more common 700r4 used in corvettes, but its more easily swapped with the th350 than the 700r4 .
obviously time and experience and some research into upgrades if it becomes an issue later won,t hurt either.
transdim1.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hing-the-drive-train-to-the-engine-combo.741/

Don't see a 10 second car present a nice hot rod yes not a racecar by any means. It fits it purpose well.
 
I have to point out I have 50 plus years devoted to gaining knowledge ,
about how you succeed at building reliable engines,and I pay a great deal of attention to the successful combos ,
and I've taken the effort too learn why the less successful combos failed.
now the truth is Ive made more than my full share of mistakes, but unlike most people,
I learn from my mistakes and the mistakes made by others and don,t generally repeat them.
I also take the time and effort to find out why parts fail, or why various mis-matched components don,t work well.
that seems to be a rather unique skill, from what I've seen.
if you take the time and effort required to read enough threads and linked info you'll see a pattern emerge!
its based on a concept that its far better to sacrifice a few peak potential horse power if thats required,
if that change can make a very noticeable improvement in the engines long term durability!
or as SMOKEY YUNICK used to say, the most important characteristic in building a race winning combo,
is simply that the most successful engine combo is based on an engine that has to finish the race in good running condition.
that in no way should be read as I can,t build a kick-butt engine with massive power, it just means that rock solid durability ,
takes presidence over adding a few additional peak, bragging hp, and a wide torque curve in the intended rpm range ,
adequate lubrication, cooling and staying out of detonation, and proper exhaust scavenging and a stable valve train,
are factors that take a far higher level of concern than bragging rights on a dyno.
or put differently, do it correct the first time, use the best parts you can afford , check your clearances, mandate 100% durability,
and strive for max torque in the intended rpm range, and let the hp numbers fall where they may!
Ive build almost 200 engines now over the last 50 years, and I can,t remember anyone having one fail unless they did something stupid,
like forget to check oil or coolant levels too repeatedly try to hit absurdly high rpms on a frequent recurring basis.
piston speed should be kept under about 4500 fpm, and even that should not be done constantly.
Race car or street car.
How it see it Grumpy.
Important to find the owners true goals.

I have street cars.
Then 1 True Race Car my 1970 Trans Am.
I street raced my late Bud Bill Ricci's 572 81 Corvette.
Won the 1/4 mile.
Kept going to 160 mph when he passed me.
He was not happy at 1st I won .
No one ever beat him racing.
Also left tire rubber from my TA all over his Corvette at the 3-4 shift at 100 mph.
Moving so fast I did not know I did that.
 
As far as Cams go single pattern makes more low mid but dual pattern has it's purpose also. I like that with the higher rear ratio. I would need to take a closer look at the big picture. Back to the OP question. I like the choice of head here and also the size. I would like to see a little clean up and some blending. There are measures to be taken to reduce chances of detonation and sure Grumpy has a bunch of links. A flat top 400 with a 72cc head is pretty common. The comp cams cam you like will make some power but personally would like a little tighter lsa. Also make sure it is on a good core.
 
The heads should be here tomorrow. I'm planning to disassemble them and go through and check tolerances and do some clean up port and bowl work. Hopefully they are decent castings. We shall see
 
The heads should be here tomorrow. I'm planning to disassemble them and go through and check tolerances and do some clean up port and bowl work. Hopefully they are decent castings. We shall see
I have only heard good things about profiler heads. Should be good I looked at them when I was shopping around for my 383 build. In Autobody jail right now. If you hydraulic roller lifter don't skimp on them be prepared for that bill I like the solid flat option ran an Isky high rev 201535 246@.050 274 adv and .535 lift solid flat with 202so lifters. 355 195 afr heads it screamed pretty good till I spun a bearing from an over heating due to a faulty fuse on an electric fan + trip into the city stop and go.
 
.
Again it seems this Crane cam does not have symmetrical lobes and DynoSim5 does not account
for this. Below you will see that it changed the Valve Event Timing from the cam card numbers
when I changed the Intake Centerline on the Cam Specs tab.

Sim01_Crane119651_NoteTimingNumbers.jpg

I retarded the cam 5° to reflect the split overlap suggested by Grumpy.

Sim01_CamRetarded5Degrees.JPG

Sim01_Crane119651_Ret5°.JPG

.
 
.
Again it seems this Crane cam does not have symmetrical lobes and DynoSim5 does not account
for this. Below you will see that it changed the Valve Event Timing from the cam card numbers
when I changed the Intake Centerline on the Cam Specs tab.

View attachment 10633

I retarded the cam 5° to reflect the split overlap suggested by Grumpy.

View attachment 10632

View attachment 10634

.
90 degrees valve overlap.
Not Streetable for a non racer and true mechanic.
Too much overlap.
 
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