King Bearing choice

Altered76

Member
I have been on the ropes on just what is the best bearings from King to use. I am doing a BBC 468 with a Scat crank and it is to be used for drag racing and street use.
Based on what I read on Kings site
http://kingbearings.com/performance.php

The HP series is more what I need for the drag racing but the XP series would be what I need for the durability "street" use. I have seen and read many shops are combining the two using say HP on the mains and XP on the rods or vise verse. Since I do have a 540 I plan to use in the same manner (that is on hold) and now I am doing this 468 with some parts I had laying around I thought I might ask what others are deciding to use for street/strip engines. I am sure either will work, I have used OEM bearings for years back when I raced, but since the price is the same for either bearing I wanted to get the best part for my $.

Thanks
 
Ive almost exclusively used CLEVITE (H) series engine bearings for decades, and see no reason to change, most bearing failures can be traced to either improper installation, failure to carefully check clearances or lack of maintaining consistent and constant high oil flow rates over the bearing surfaces.
H-Series.jpg

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in a properly operating engine the crank journals are supported on a pressurized oil cushion between the bearings and rotating crank,
adding a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan with a windage tray and crank scraper is a good start, read these threads carefully.
obviously the quality of the oil used the temperature of the oil and the efficiency of the oil filter used has a huge effect on maintaining that oil flow protecting the bearing surface.
Ive built dozens of high performance big block engines over the years and have not had a single bearing failure ,of the guys I have seen have engine failures the most common sources of problems are related to guys using low octane fuel or over heating engines resulting in detonation, and no bearing or piston or rings can withstand frequent detonation or being abused with dirty oil being used, and guys who don,t have the valve train built to control the valves at high rpms. simple mods like use of a rocker stud girdle , the correct valve spring, bearing and piston clearances and spring load rates, correct rocker geometry, not exceeding about 4200fpm in piston speed, and use of a 7-8 quart oil pan, with a windage tray, can do wonders for durability


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http://www.jegs.com/p/Clevite/Clevite-7 ... PerPage=30

http://stealth316.com/misc/clevite-77-r ... arings.pdf

http://catalog.mahleclevite.com/bearing/

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Prod ... n-Bearings

http://underthehood.mahleclevite.com/?p=246

http://catalog.mahleclevite.com/bearing/

Bearing Markings

The backs of most bearings have numerous markings and there are a range of things that could be on the shell.

Below are just a few examples (See photos for a better understanding):

Production Date (Month/Year)- Example would be 8-10 or 8/10
Material Used – Example would be AS
Shift – Example would be B-11 or A-10
Part Number – Example would be CB663P
Position – Example would be Upper or Lower
Size – Example would be Std. or 0.25mm


Bearing Failures

Bearing failures do happen… and often, we look for someone or something to blame for the failure. MAHLE Clevite offers a web-based bearing failure guide with 22 different causes of bearing failures. The guide is complete with digital photos, causes, prevention, and remedial actions. I promise you won’t find anything like it, and the best part is there’s no charge to use it. Why, isn’t that nice of MAHLE Clevite?

To explain failures briefly – 40% of engine bearing failures are caused by dirt and the main sources of dirt are #1 – dirt left in during the overhaul #2 – airborne abrasives and #3 – contaminated lubricants. Myself and the engineers at Clevite can’t stress enough how important it is to clean your crank, rods and pistons before assembly. Scrub oil galleries with a bristle brush, wash parts with hot, soapy water and clean, clean, clean!
read thru these links

http://vandervell.co.uk/images/slidesho ... forman.pdf

http://www.stealth316.com/misc/clevite- ... ooving.pdf
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TB 2051 2/10/2000
Influence of Grooving on Main Bearing Performance
Various forms of main bearing grooving have been used over the years. We are
frequently asked what difference grooving makes.
First, it’s essential to understand that bearings depend on a film of oil to keep them
separated from the shaft surface. This oil film is developed by shaft rotation. As the shaft
rotates it pulls oil into the loaded area of the bearing and rides up on this film much like a
tire hydroplaning on wet pavement. Grooving in a bearing acts like tread in a tire to break
up the oil film. While you want your tires to grip the road, you don’t want your bearings
to grip the shaft.
The primary reason for having any grooving in a main bearing is to provide oil to the
connecting rods. Without rod bearings to feed, a simple oil hole would be sufficient to
lubricate a main bearing. Many early engines used full grooved bearings and some even
used multiple grooves. As engine and bearing technology developed, bearing grooving
was removed from modern lower main bearings. The result is in a thicker film of oil for
the shaft to ride on. This provides a greater safety margin and improved bearing life.
Upper main shells, which see lower loads than the lowers, have retained a groove to
supply the connecting rods with oil.
In an effort to develop the best possible main bearing designs for High Performance
engines, we’ve investigated the effects of main bearing grooving on bearing performance.
The graphs on the next page illustrate that a simple 180
°
groove in the upper main shell is
still the best overall design.
While a slightly shorter groove of 140
°
provides a marginal gain, most of the benefit is to
the upper shell, which doesn’t need improvement. On the other hand, extending the
groove into the lower half, even as little as 20
°
at each parting line (220
°
in total), takes
away from upper bearing performance without providing any benefit to the lower half.
It’s also interesting to note that as groove length increases so do Horsepower Loss and
Peak Oil Film Pressure which is transmitted directly to the bearing
 
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I have had good experience with both Clevite and King. I totally agree most bearing failures are human error. I dont have any issue with Clevite except the cost. Just like many other companies they need competition to keep both companies pushing to do better and price point in check. I like the fact King is not part of a huge conglomerate. Bearings is their one and only business. So I wanted to show them a little support is all.

I posted on their expert page this morning about my question. For anyone else interested Ill post it below.
My message
Subject: Question to Dr. Dmitri (found here http://kingbearings.com/ask_drdmitri.php )

Message Body:
Reading on the application page of Kings webpage I am not sure if I should do the HP or XP bearings. My intended use is drag racing but also street use of about 10000 mi/yr. I must have the Narrowed Design for my large-radius 454 BBC crank. This is for a low 700 hp motor with a fairly standard weight rotating assembly turning 7000 rpms. No trick lightweight parts etc its a budget motor.

I want the ”High-load, short-duration racing ” of the HP but I also think I need the ”long-duration” of the XP. My thought is to just get the XP but since there is no mention of drag racing for the XP where the comparison of the two are listed I thought I should ask.

Another thing I have seen several shops are using one such as the XP on the crank and HP on the rods or vise verse. Maybe this is something I would need to do in my case?

I would love to have a real honest experts opinion on what bearing works for this.

Thank You

His reply
the HP would be the best combination for drag and street.

Thanks for your interest in King.

The answer was a bit short not describing why etc but it was what I needed to know.

Also thanks Grumpy for the information on how bearings work etc I had read much of that many years ago and it never hurts to freshen up as there are always new things coming out. Similar to the groves in bearings theory from years past. If people are not willing to look at different ideas and things we wouldn't be where we are today with making hp. Competition drives improvements and that is good for all of us. ;)
 
My vote is for Cleavite Altered.
Use H series and good air cleaner.
Moroso makes a real nice 16 " inch diameter for Holley Dominator 4500 series. Drop base style.

If my own I would use P series. Or Vandervell. NOS.
My own preferences.
 
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