leaking freeze plugs

[grumpyvette]

"IVE GOT A COOLANT LEAK IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT,If it is the freeze plugs how bad are they to change, or can you change them?"

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_ch ... the_engine

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb100145.htm

http://www.ehow.com/how_2268885_replace ... plugs.html

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articl ... 2&scccid=3

THE ANSWER DEPENDS ON BOTH LOCATION of the leaking freeze plug and YOUR skill and tools available, it can be a 15 minute job or take most of a day to fix, getting ACCESS to the defective plug may be a total P.I.T.A.
I ALWAYS INSIST ON BRASS NOT STEEL FREEZE PLUGS SIMPLY BECAUSE THEY ARE FAR LESS LIKELY TO RUST OUT

think how much fun the two in the rear of the block can be to access

OR THE TWO DIRRECTLY UNDER THE MOTOR MOUNTS WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CAR

 

[grumpyvette]

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=281&p=344&hilit=brass#p344

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2919&p=12148&hilit=plugs+freeze+sealant#p12148

http://freezeplugfactory.com/expansion-plug-size-chart/


Brass Cup Plugs
PART NO SIZE MILLIMETER PART NO SIZE MILLIMETER
102 5/16 7.939
146
1 1/2
38.1
103 3/8 9.525 147 1 9/16 39.69
104
13/32
10.32
148
1 5/8
41.28
106
27/64
10.72
149
1 41/64
41.68
107
7/16
11.11
151
1 11/16
42.86
108
29/64
11.51
152
1 45/64
43.27
109
1/2
12.7
153
1 3/4
44.45
111
1/2
12.3
154
1 49/64
44.86
112
33/64
13.1
155
1 47/64
44.05
113
17/32
13.49
156
1 25/32
45.24
114
9/16 14.29
157
1 51/64
45.65
116
19/32
15.08
158
1 13/16
46.04
117
39/64
15.48
160
1 7/8
47.63
118
5/8 15.88
161
1 29/32
48.42
119 41/64
16.27
162
1 59/64
48.83
120
21/32
16.67
163
1 15/16
49.21
121
45/64
17.86
165
1 61/64
49.62
123
11/16
17.46
166
1 31/32
50.01
124
3/4 19.05
167
1 63/64
50.42
125
13/16
20.64
170
2
50.8
126
7/8 22.23
171
2 1/64
51.21
128
29/32
23.02
172
2 3/64
52
129
15/16
23.81
173
2 1/16
52.39
130
1
25.4
175
2 3/32
53.19
131
1 1/64
25.8
176
2 7/64
53.59
132
1 1/16
26.99
177
2 1/8
53.98
133
1 1/8
28.58
178
2 9/64
54.38
135
1 3/16
30.16
180
2 5/32
54.78
136
1 7/32
30.96
181
2 3/16
55.56
137
1 1/4
31.75
182
2 13/64
55.97
138
1 5/16
33.34
183
2 7/32
56.37
139
1 21/64
33.74
184
2 1/4
57.15
140
1 3/8
34.93
185
2 3/8
60.33
142
1 25/64
35.33
186
2 1/2
63.5
143
1 7/16
36.51
187
2 9/16
65.09
144
1 31/64
37.71

this article covers most of it well
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html

these come in handy
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95853

hint

use only BRASS freeze plugs and coat the edges and the hole in the block edge with this sealant


you won,t be the first guy to use a socket and a hammer to install freeze plugs but the correct tool goes a long way to make the install process correct

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... ealant.htm


before you install them, coat the inner outside surface and the matching inner surface of the block with this sealant, seat the plug and the sealant will harden locking and sealing the plug in place as it drys over the next few hours, just remember to use BRASS FREEZE PLUGS
the ZINC coated steel ones act like an ANODE and rust out fairly quickly

http://www.professionalequipment.com/ex ... ermometer/
Wide temperature range from -58 to 1832°F (-50 to 1000°C)
don,t trust your cars temp gauges 100%, cross check oil and coolant temps with a quality accurate infrared temp gun

for temporary repairs these work
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... nsion+Plug

 

[grumpyvette]

ANY ANTI FREEZE needs to be replaced every 3-5 years or so or at 150K miles which ever occurs first, and the RADIATOR FLUSHED of the crud that tends to accumulate, too keep it free of the stuff that tends to settle out and clog the passages. and too prevent the water / coolant mix from breaking down and acting like an electrolyte in a battery.
adding an ANODE or two can help.

http://www.radiator.com/article-radiator-problems.html

http://www.radiatorinfo.com/radtip.html

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=74

http://www.ehow.com/how_2189727_prevent-clogged-radiator.html

http://automechanics.wordpress.com/2008/05/28/top-ten-common-radiator-problems-for-older-vehicles/

http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html


the ORANGE and GREEN anti-freeze most of us use are sometimes NOT compatible and if blended , IF mixed they frequently over time form a sludge, or break down and leave crud in the radiator passages that clogs the passages, THEY SHOULD NEVER BE MIXED

adding an ANODE tends to slow the Corrosion, and having a good engine ground also tends to prevent or at least delay freeze plug and radiator corrosion problems running just water in a radiator allows it to act like the acid in a battery if your running aluminum parts like water pumps,radiators and heads on an iron block.
NEVER MIX
DEXCOOL (ORANGE)AND PRESTONE (GREEN)DON,T PLAY WELL TOGETHER

read thru the links

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/us90554.htm

http://www.radiator.com/article-radiator-coolant.html

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us120426.htm

if your finding a slime in the coolant passages of your aluminum intake on your engine, or your loosing freeze plugs (leaks) regularly its likely the result of electrolysis


heres one option that eliminates electrolysis
http://www.evanscooling.com/products/


the cure requires three different changes, made to the coolant system,
the first is running a 50%/50% distilled water antifreeze mix with the newer antifreeze formulas
many guys clean the coolant passages in the manifolds and paint them with several coats of marine hull paint before installing them on a car also

the second is INSTALLING A COUPLE ANODES in the engine

the third is making sure the engines well grounded in two places to the BLOCK, not the intake, and to the cars frame and battery

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html

http://www.bmcno.org/RadCap.htm

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=74&p=4123&hilit=anode#p4123