ever notice my signature, line, IVE used for years
"if you can,t smoke the tires from a 60mph rolling start your engine needs more work!"
http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/1-4-m ... calculator
I built and drove a 13.7:1 compression ratio ,CROWER INJECTED 496 BIG BLOCK CORVETTE, for several years., it was not a daily driver but it was a weekend toy, SO IM familiar with the problem, of having nearly zero traction under the use of 1/2 -to-full throttle, and under almost any conditions at any speeds under 60 -70mph.
YOULL NEVER LEARN HOW TO DRIVE A CAR LIKE THAT WITHOUT SOME EXTENSIVE PRACTICE!
heres a good example of what to expect when a less than experienced throttle foot and 500 horse power potential cross paths in the real world.... it takes TIME and PRACTICE to learn to drive a powerful car that can easily turn the tire traction to smoke with the blip of a throttle
first step, use your head, if you've got a car with well over 500hp and 500 ft lbs of torque your going to be able to destroy the rear tires with a blip of the throttle in many cases and get yourself into problems in a blink of an eye! you don,t use that power all the time, in fact most of the time youll find yourself barely opening the throttle. if you have a working brain youll realize your in control of how when and of control over the rate at which the power you have potentially available is applied to the drive train and tires
Maximize the current traction from the current tires; the wrong pressure can reduce effective traction by over 30%, forget about stomping on the gas like you can get away with with a stock small block car much of the time, it only results in tire smoke, and in many cases tickets.
step one, play with the tire pressure until you get a full tread width and equally dark patch of rubber on the pavement, and if the car can accelerate fast you should have the common sense to realize you'll need both, larger more effective brakes and too the experience to plan all moves well in advance, thus leaving a great deal of room and time to slow the car down or compensate for other drivers mistakes
like learning to walk, driving a true high power car is going to result in YOU learning what you can, and CAN,T expect to do without running into UN-intended objects or getting hurt... take it slowly and learn, what the car can and can,t do, how far it takes to stop and at what speeds you can turn, if you don,t your going to get hurt with the new toy!
most guys run about 23-30 psi of tire pressure on the street, on the track you want the front tires up at about 30 psi to reduce rolling resistance but youll need to experiment , doing a few launches on concrete so you can get a good indication of the tread contact patch area, adjusting/playing with the rear tire pressure until you can get a full tread width black tire stripe on the pavement thats equally dark full width to get max traction, if the centers darker the pressures usually a bit too high , if the edges are darker its a bit too low.
next learn to launch the car smoothly, at the lowest rpm that will allow minimal tire spin to occur over the whole launch and into second gear, and yet still maintain the tire spin without the engine bogging as your running thru the first 60 feet on the track, once you get those factors under control youl find youll do better !!
once you leave the track reduce the front tire pressure until you get max traction, usually near 23 psi
heres a practice tree
try to stay under .525-.530 reaction time
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/nhraxtreesp.html
read this, info on the basics of setting up a suspension
http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/
Step two
Learn your equipments little quirks, your not going to be able to floor the accelerator pedal suddenly, especially on wet or sandy pavement, GET USED TO THAT FACT! And COMPENSATE by learning how to slowly depress the accelerator pedal and control and minimize the wheel spin.
Step three
high acceleration requires both better brakes and planning your reactions MUCH further in advance and a longer distance between starting your response and expecting results, get used to that and learn to expect it.
step 4
air shocks, stiffer anti roll bars and bigger brakes are your friends but planning ahead and driving like you understand the cars quirks and potential for getting into trouble will go a very long way towards preventing problems, IE just because you CAN do something does not mean you SHOULD do it!
besides its fun to cruise in top gear at 3000rpm at lets say 70mph and without even down shifting , smoking the tires as you leave some ricer in the dust from a roll without even seeming to put any effort what so ever into doing it.
if your breaking traction when your not expecting too, its simply because your pushing that accelerator towards the floor a bit too rapidly, or your suspension and tires are not correctly set up to handle the power.
a properly set up high performance car almost explodes into acceleration when the throttle depressed or DE-acceleration when the brakes are applied by a skilled operator, gaining that skill takes experience and practice,the problem is..
most of us grew up with cars that had power levels that allowed the driver to hold the accelerator on the floor waiting for the power to build, NOW you are forced to DRIVE THE CAR and CONTROL the application of power UNDER YOUR CONTROL...it takes practice but once you've mastered the skill its a real thrill.
My 1968 13.7:1 cpr CROWER INJECTED race ,496 BBC vette took awhile to master , required a full roll cage and a tubed read,but it sure put a grin on your face once you got the hang of driving a car with almost EXCESSIVE power
"if you can,t smoke the tires from a 60mph rolling start your engine needs more work!"
http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/1-4-m ... calculator
I built and drove a 13.7:1 compression ratio ,CROWER INJECTED 496 BIG BLOCK CORVETTE, for several years., it was not a daily driver but it was a weekend toy, SO IM familiar with the problem, of having nearly zero traction under the use of 1/2 -to-full throttle, and under almost any conditions at any speeds under 60 -70mph.
YOULL NEVER LEARN HOW TO DRIVE A CAR LIKE THAT WITHOUT SOME EXTENSIVE PRACTICE!
heres a good example of what to expect when a less than experienced throttle foot and 500 horse power potential cross paths in the real world.... it takes TIME and PRACTICE to learn to drive a powerful car that can easily turn the tire traction to smoke with the blip of a throttle
first step, use your head, if you've got a car with well over 500hp and 500 ft lbs of torque your going to be able to destroy the rear tires with a blip of the throttle in many cases and get yourself into problems in a blink of an eye! you don,t use that power all the time, in fact most of the time youll find yourself barely opening the throttle. if you have a working brain youll realize your in control of how when and of control over the rate at which the power you have potentially available is applied to the drive train and tires
Maximize the current traction from the current tires; the wrong pressure can reduce effective traction by over 30%, forget about stomping on the gas like you can get away with with a stock small block car much of the time, it only results in tire smoke, and in many cases tickets.
step one, play with the tire pressure until you get a full tread width and equally dark patch of rubber on the pavement, and if the car can accelerate fast you should have the common sense to realize you'll need both, larger more effective brakes and too the experience to plan all moves well in advance, thus leaving a great deal of room and time to slow the car down or compensate for other drivers mistakes
like learning to walk, driving a true high power car is going to result in YOU learning what you can, and CAN,T expect to do without running into UN-intended objects or getting hurt... take it slowly and learn, what the car can and can,t do, how far it takes to stop and at what speeds you can turn, if you don,t your going to get hurt with the new toy!
most guys run about 23-30 psi of tire pressure on the street, on the track you want the front tires up at about 30 psi to reduce rolling resistance but youll need to experiment , doing a few launches on concrete so you can get a good indication of the tread contact patch area, adjusting/playing with the rear tire pressure until you can get a full tread width black tire stripe on the pavement thats equally dark full width to get max traction, if the centers darker the pressures usually a bit too high , if the edges are darker its a bit too low.
next learn to launch the car smoothly, at the lowest rpm that will allow minimal tire spin to occur over the whole launch and into second gear, and yet still maintain the tire spin without the engine bogging as your running thru the first 60 feet on the track, once you get those factors under control youl find youll do better !!
once you leave the track reduce the front tire pressure until you get max traction, usually near 23 psi
heres a practice tree
try to stay under .525-.530 reaction time
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/nhraxtreesp.html
read this, info on the basics of setting up a suspension
http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/
Step two
Learn your equipments little quirks, your not going to be able to floor the accelerator pedal suddenly, especially on wet or sandy pavement, GET USED TO THAT FACT! And COMPENSATE by learning how to slowly depress the accelerator pedal and control and minimize the wheel spin.
Step three
high acceleration requires both better brakes and planning your reactions MUCH further in advance and a longer distance between starting your response and expecting results, get used to that and learn to expect it.
step 4
air shocks, stiffer anti roll bars and bigger brakes are your friends but planning ahead and driving like you understand the cars quirks and potential for getting into trouble will go a very long way towards preventing problems, IE just because you CAN do something does not mean you SHOULD do it!
besides its fun to cruise in top gear at 3000rpm at lets say 70mph and without even down shifting , smoking the tires as you leave some ricer in the dust from a roll without even seeming to put any effort what so ever into doing it.
if your breaking traction when your not expecting too, its simply because your pushing that accelerator towards the floor a bit too rapidly, or your suspension and tires are not correctly set up to handle the power.
a properly set up high performance car almost explodes into acceleration when the throttle depressed or DE-acceleration when the brakes are applied by a skilled operator, gaining that skill takes experience and practice,the problem is..
most of us grew up with cars that had power levels that allowed the driver to hold the accelerator on the floor waiting for the power to build, NOW you are forced to DRIVE THE CAR and CONTROL the application of power UNDER YOUR CONTROL...it takes practice but once you've mastered the skill its a real thrill.
My 1968 13.7:1 cpr CROWER INJECTED race ,496 BBC vette took awhile to master , required a full roll cage and a tubed read,but it sure put a grin on your face once you got the hang of driving a car with almost EXCESSIVE power
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