Grumpy, I was reading a magazine article a while ago and decided to build a duplicate of that engine, the guys had the same cam , heads, intake as I do because I duplicated their engine combo,and the engine they build was making 480 HP from their 383 SBC.
My car dynoed 370 RWHP.
Is this possible? why am I getting so much less hp?
A great many guys are operating under the wildly untrue concept that if they simply buy the parts listed in a magazine article and bolt them together out of the box they can duplicate the results listed in the articles they read.
they fail to understand that theres a big difference between bolting parts together and BUILDING an engine correctly.
and even more guys seem to think that they can simply substitute a few random parts or use parts they already own in place of the listed parts in the magazine build list yet expect to get similar results
remember taking the time to research parts compatibility , BEFORE YOU BUY PARTS, can save you a great deal of time and money
IF you have an engine thats not running as well as you expected, drop back and do a logical step by step verification of each components function,knowing your true compression ratio would help, as would knowing your converter stall speed, exhaust back pressure at peak rpms and plenum vacuum reading at peak rpms and your ignition timing and advance curve.
posting clear pictures of your spark plugs labeled to match the cylinders would also be useful, as would any info on jets and power valves, accelerator pump cams , and fuel pressure etc. If you were local we could work out the testing and details far easier, things like voltage, and exhaust,back pressure, fuel pressure get over looked but they can be great indicators
you might be amazed at what a few tests with a fuel pressure gauge can tell you
THIS THREADS A GREAT INSTRUCTIONAL THREAD
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
OK, first rear wheel hp is generally going to be 15%-20% lower than FLYWHEEL HP, so 480 flywheel hp TIMES .825 or 82.5% will give you a power figure abut 17.5% lower than the flywheel hp, so you have a semi valid power figure to look for as a rear wheel hp number,so you find that 480 fly wheel hp = about 396 hp at the rear wheels ,
(OR about 82.5% of the FLYWHEEL HP)
so your 370 RWHP. is closer than you might think, to that listed 480 fly wheel hp, Id also point out that the engine build articles seldom bother to mention the little tweaks like 5 angle valve jobs and intake porting thats done to make engines produce good hp, remember the articles are mostly done to sell PARTS and they are not about to let a well paying customers parts combo look bad, so they do a good deal more to most of those engines than they list.
obviously you can have the heads and intake ported and a good 5 angle valve job and indexing the cam,is usually good for a few more hp, and/ or adding a plenum spacer could give you some gains, but I will point out that I see simple parts miss matches in most combos, I tune and lack of tuning skill in both owners and dyno operators, frequently holding back the results.
Id also point out theres huge tendency for most guys to get a parts list, that will work great, and then start substituting cheaper components or parts they have or purchased dirt cheap later ,and have that deer in the head light silly stare when it, gets assembled and runs like crap, because the components they substituted, are not well matched, so don,t assume any combo you build with a FEW slightly different components will produce near the same power levels.
a simple change like removing a restrictive exhaust during a dyno test, and adding a tuned header collector could easily give a 20 hp boost in rear wheel hp.
guys rarely bother to learn how to read spark plugs or use a vacuum gauge or verify cam or ignition timing, or bother to get the fuel/air ratio consistent and that can easily be a huge problem.
Id first suggest finding some one with experience and a dyno that KNOWS how to tune and trouble shoot a combo.
and check out the simply things your 100% sure you did correctly, because I can,t begin to tell you how many times I see guys who have the firing order on the ignition wrong, or guys that install a 4/7 swap cam and still use the standard ignition firing order or guys that never verify TDC and ignition advance curves.
get an IR temp gun and check for wild variations in exhaust temps, get a compression test done, do a logical check to verify each cylinder fires etc.
guys put the car on a dyno and get a test run, and think, CRAP! thats a good deal lower power than I expected, without realizing the dyno is a TOOL you use to find out what is restricting the current combos out-put. the reason is that Ive seen a near endless number of guys who were disappointed with the dyno test results who assume that their car is tuned and running correctly who later find that there was something an experienced tuner would notice and start asking questions about.
reading spark plugs can tell you a great deal, as can vacuum readings in the plenum,and air cleaner, fuel pressure, exhaust back pressure and watching the exhaust gas temperatures, ignition timing curve and general power curve.
once you under stand what a dyno sheet says you can use the data to locate potential problem areas.
factors like the plenum vacuum, exhaust back pressure and BSFC all can and frequently do point to or indicate areas that need to be examined.
your exhaust back pressure should not exceed 1 psi at peak power, your fuel air ratio should fall in the 12.5-13:1 range, your ignition advance curve might need work, header configs can frequently be vastly improved, etc..
your engines power level needs to be measured the same way ,as any your comparing it too, and little things like carb jetting engine back pressure plug gaps,cam indexing etc. can all effect your results and what you think is a very similar combo to what your buddy built or some magazine article you tried to copy building your engine, but then having you make a "FEW MINOR CHANGES" like changing the HEADS, or INTAKE, changing the compression ratio, forgetting to index a cam, having a different carb, headers, or rockers, and how the exhaust is configured can easily make that 140hp or greater difference, Ive seen a restrictive exhaust reduce power levels by 60hp-80 hp on several engines, that got a big improvement with a new less restrictive exhaust, system when it was eventually changed.
and a cam designed to run in the 3000rpm-6000rpm range matched to restrictive heads and a restrictive intake can very easily cost your 50hp-70hp,or more, plus theres the factor of REAR WHEEL HP, vs ENGINE DYNO RATED HP,or FLY WHEEL HP, a 450 hp engine measured on a engine dyno would be doing good in most cases to pull 370 rear wheel hp
related threads, YES IT WILL TAKE YOU A WHILE TO READ THEM< BUT YOULL LIKELY LEARN A GOOD DEAL DOING SO!
READ THIS LINK OVER CAREFULLY TWICE
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-55314
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ers-and-yeah-thinking-it-through-helps.15137/
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