Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Nice !
LT1 and a T56 in a 55 Chevy
- Thread starter 2Loose
- Start date
2Loose
reliable source of info
It's going to get sound insulation and carpeting, that will hide the screws....
If I need to drill and tap the frame to mount something, my preference is to weld on additional metal and drill and tap that to get more thread strength....
This was for when I was setting up the shock/coil-over mounts and the rear sway bar mounts...
If I need to drill and tap the frame to mount something, my preference is to weld on additional metal and drill and tap that to get more thread strength....
This was for when I was setting up the shock/coil-over mounts and the rear sway bar mounts...
2Loose
reliable source of info
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
You should be proud.
2Loose
reliable source of info
Put the Ididit steering column and rag joint in,
hooking up to the 500 steering box,
the locking screws on the upper side of the
rag joint hit the firewall, some clearancing required...
The stock mounting bracket under the dash
is way too large, I'm going to have to modify
it or fab a new one to fit properly...
Yup, going to require some work here...
Any suggestions ?
hooking up to the 500 steering box,
the locking screws on the upper side of the
rag joint hit the firewall, some clearancing required...
The stock mounting bracket under the dash
is way too large, I'm going to have to modify
it or fab a new one to fit properly...
Yup, going to require some work here...
Any suggestions ?
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Make Template out of Cardboard Willy.Put the Ididit steering column and rag joint in,
hooking up to the 500 steering box,
the locking screws on the upper side of the
rag joint hit the firewall, some clearancing required...
The stock mounting bracket under the dash
is way too large, I'm going to have to modify
it or fab a new one to fit properly...
Yup, going to require some work here...
Any suggestions ?
An old Shoe box will work.
Construction craft paper.
Coca Cola box unfolded.
Tape together as needed.
Make a Master Template 1st.
Must do for 1 Off Fabrication.
Too hard to eyeball and free hand create.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Simple brackets needed I can eyeball and free hand bend.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Gorilla brand tape works best.
Modify or fab an new bracket (middle pic above), use a T-Bolt clamp like I see at the bottom
of the column. Or maybe a U-Bolt. I assume it will be out-of-sight when everything is installed???
Use a dense or hard rubber to isolate the steering column, like below. Might use 3/16 inch.
Can you bring the column into better alignment with the steering box?
of the column. Or maybe a U-Bolt. I assume it will be out-of-sight when everything is installed???
Use a dense or hard rubber to isolate the steering column, like below. Might use 3/16 inch.
Can you bring the column into better alignment with the steering box?
2Loose
reliable source of info
With some shims between the steering box and the frame,
I could get better alignment with the steering column,
but I'm too close to the headers already, so the steering
box will stay where it is...
This is the misalignment I'm referring to,
but that rag joint should be able to handle it ok...
I found this original rubber sleeve from the original
steering column, just needed to put in a locator
bolt to match the slot in the bottom of the steering column...
Everything bolted up quite nicely...
I could get better alignment with the steering column,
but I'm too close to the headers already, so the steering
box will stay where it is...
This is the misalignment I'm referring to,
but that rag joint should be able to handle it ok...
I found this original rubber sleeve from the original
steering column, just needed to put in a locator
bolt to match the slot in the bottom of the steering column...
Everything bolted up quite nicely...
2Loose
reliable source of info
Dug out the shift lever and boot...
Screwed down the boot, lookin' good there...
Hung the clutch pedal, now to figure out how to hook up a juice clutch MC...
(the T56 has a hydraulic operated throw out bearing)
Pulled this new brake master cylinder off the shelf (for the brakes),
not sure how to hook up that compensating valve...
From the numbers here, it's been sitting on the shelf for about 10 years...
Got some work ahead of me....
Screwed down the boot, lookin' good there...
Hung the clutch pedal, now to figure out how to hook up a juice clutch MC...
(the T56 has a hydraulic operated throw out bearing)
Pulled this new brake master cylinder off the shelf (for the brakes),
not sure how to hook up that compensating valve...
From the numbers here, it's been sitting on the shelf for about 10 years...
Got some work ahead of me....
55C150
Well-Known Member
Here are instructions for the PV2
https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-31352 MBM prop valve.pdf
Be aware when bleeding brakes, you have to put a bleeding tool in the PV2 (plastic screw with a pin). If you leave the switch in while bleeding it could be damaged. Some peolpe say it doesn't matter, but mine didn't worked after I did it wrong.
https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-31352 MBM prop valve.pdf
Be aware when bleeding brakes, you have to put a bleeding tool in the PV2 (plastic screw with a pin). If you leave the switch in while bleeding it could be damaged. Some peolpe say it doesn't matter, but mine didn't worked after I did it wrong.
