LT1 and a T56 in a 55 Chevy

Discussion in 'Engine: Repairs , Modifications ,trouble shooting ' started by 2Loose, Jan 26, 2013.

  1. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    Do you know how they measure the actual air gap when there is only a small access
    hole like you would use with an optic probe? Maybe eyeball estimate is good enough?

    Put the floor, etc. back together...
    Now to look at the clutch pedal and linkage....
    [​IMG]

    The chalk mark by that lower bolt is 2.7" down from the pivot...
    [​IMG]

    Which is where I think I want to put the clutch
    master cylinder push rod...
    [​IMG]

    I think that this gives me the max. amount of leverage that I want to try for,
    but should give me lots of foot pedal travel and a fairly light
    pedal effort. If I move the attachment point further down, it
    will increase foot pedal effort but give me a faster action at the pedal.
     
  2. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    You better keep it at 2.7 inches with the easier pedal, you never know when the wife might want to take it for a spin ! :)
     
  3. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    That Centerforce clutch and Billet Flywheel is $1,000 !
    Guessing is Bad.
    Your A Mechanical Engineer.
    I was at Byron Raceway back 1999.
    Arnie Berwick was there with his Tameless Tiger.
    Walked up to him in the pits.
    He was setting the Clutch disc air gap.
    He showed me how to do it. Taught me.
    Later he ran 6.999 at 200mph in 1/4.
    It was the NMCA Fastest street car shootout in the USA.
    HE SET THE FASTEST TIME THAT DAY AND A NEW RECORD !
     
  4. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    Sometimes intelligent guessing is the only option, it's worked well for me over all these years...

    Got the hole saw out and started marking off measurements....
    Drilled that hole first from the front side.
    Had to pull off the brake MC to get access with the drill for the bolt holes...
    Tried to get at the passenger side hole with the drill from underneath,
    No Way, so off came the brake MC....

    [​IMG]

    That "ridge" on the left side of the MC (viewed from the front) needed
    to be flattened with a hammer, or a spacer needs to be fabbed....
    So made a pattern...

    [​IMG]

    Had that piece of 1/4" in the scrap pile, so used that...

    The pattern looks good to go....

    [​IMG]

    Gotta cut off the left side where the firewall ridge hits it...

    [​IMG]

    Cut the big hole first....
    Go from there....

    [​IMG]

    Looks good on the MC...

    [​IMG]

    Looks good on the firewall...

    [​IMG]

    Need to fab another 1/4" plate for the inside, with the 3/8" bolts
    welded on to stuff through and bolt up from the front side....
     
    Maniacmechanic1 likes this.
  5. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    thank you, I really appreciate the time and effort you took to post the pictures,
    showing the custom fabrication work on the spacer,
    so few people have the skills , tools, initiative, and ingenuity
     
  6. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    Fabbed another 1/4" plate for the inside, with the 3/8" bolts
    welded on to stuff through and bolt up from the front side....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Maniacmechanic1 likes this.
  7. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    Everything bolted up quite nicely....
    [​IMG]

    My spacer worked perfectly....
    [​IMG]

    The inside plate with bolts also seems good to go....
    [​IMG]

    Now to take it all apart and paint the parts.
     
    Loves302Chevy likes this.
  8. Loves302Chevy

    Loves302Chevy "One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."

    [​IMG]

    Changing spark plug #5 should be fun. Might be easier from underneath?
     
  9. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    Any of you guys ever used a borescope?
    How would you get good measurements, such as the clutch adjustment, with something like this
    poked through a small hole in the bell housing ?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    I have one Willy.
    A Snap On model I bought back 2010.
    Still works. It was expensive.
    Wireless model and hooks to a Computer screen or T.V. set also.

    Lots of options now.

    The Milwaukee Boroscope I like.
    Home Depot and Menards has in stock.
    $100.00

    Amazon sells boroscope kits to use with your smart cellphone.
     
  11. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    You can get into 1/4 holes and see.
    Expensive models have better resolution and backlighting in wand end.
     
  12. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    Just to let you guys know, Centerforce never bothered to respond to my request above. I sent an email to their posted customer service address, what, a couple of weeks ago? and they never bothered to respond. Guess they're too important to respond go backyard guys like us....
     
  13. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    Heading into town today, we have a home depot, will go by and look at that Milwaukee Boroscope, Thanks MM1
     
  14. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    I used to use Ram Racing Clutches.
    Goes back to 1994 - 2002. Every Ram Clutch I bought and I bought at least 5 of them had Clutch Disc Air Gap Release sheet with the Clutch kit.
    Centerforce is not real good with Tech support.
    Got an Engineer on the phone one day to find out Hp Limits of Dual Friction.
    Told me 800 Hp no slicks and street tires only.
    Ram and McLeod true race clutch companies.
    Used Ram spec air gap release on my Centerpiece Dual Friction clutch.
    It worked.
     
  15. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Ok....Its Milwaukee M12 12 volt tool.
    Need battery or charger.

    Buy the M12 Electric ratchet.
    I have one.
    Use it daily at work and home.
    Powerfull.
    Light.
    No air hose.
    You will love for all projects.
    Charger and battery included.
    Work on Milwaukee Boroscope.
     
  16. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Time saver .
    Saves valuable time cordless electric tools.
     
  17. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

  18. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    With an old TH400 or TH350 Yoke stuck in the T56 6-speed and clutch pedal depressed with Trans in 1st gear the output shaft will turn warm butter smooth.
    Reverse gear engaged should click engage instant.
    Tip for you .
     
  19. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    Many Thanks, learning a lot here...
    Back when I was racing my other '55, "Patches", a blown Olds powered 425 w a Doug Nash 4+1, I destroyed the front u-joint
    and the "eyes" on the yoke, so that yoke (a 400 style) now gets plugged into the TKO600 that's in Patches (got tired repairing the DN, kept blowing out gears...)
    (the TKO is holding up ok so far, but just ok, not real happy with it...) or this T56 in the hardtop project....
    My local Home Depot had this bore scope in stock, so I took it home....
    [​IMG]

    Maybe I should have fabbed that floor cover over the tranny as a two piece, with a smaller piece over the bell housing and put the access holes there....
    More "Hmmmmm....."
     
    Maniacmechanic1 likes this.
  20. 2Loose

    2Loose reliable source of info

    OK, the plan is to have two small square access holes in the floor pan,
    on that piece I made, two smaller holes, looking at 4" x 4", up on top
    and directly over two 1" threaded holes right over the clutch gap, so
    unscrew the two floor covers, unscrew the plugs, and check the gap
    with a couple feeler gages, on the end of a metal rod, so I can probe
    the air gap on the clutch and watch, looking for the .035" setting and
    see how I like that out on the street. Am thinking I can probably
    reset the master cylinder clutch action up or down under the dash
    if I need more or less pump action and how the pedal feels....
    Driving a solid stick behind a solid motor is always just so much fun!
     
    Maniacmechanic1 likes this.

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