LT1 and a T56 in a 55 Chevy


solid fixture here in the forum
Wait until you get to be my age and bad health, then lie upside down on steel on your back and can't see without a magnifying glass or light.

Autowire is good so just follow the instructions.


solid fixture here in the forum
That's alot of wire to keep track of..holy cow!
At least you have room to access the underside of the dash. Meaning I see no center console to get in the way.


solid fixture here in the forum
Wait until you get to be my age and bad health, then lie upside down on steel on your back and can't see without a magnifying glass or light.

Felt I was there a couple weeks ago on my truck wiring!

2Loose... looks like a clean job your doing.. nice!
What helped me was that I finished 1 circuit complete at a time.


reliable source of info
My new gage system has a computer to operate it that has to be mounted up under the dash somewhere, also the FAST engine computer has to be mounted somewhere up there, was under there looking at possibilities when it dawned on me that I needed to probably install the AC / heating system, and the new under dash windshield wiper system first, and I have not purchased those as yet. So been online looking at possibilities, want to use the AC compressor that came with the motor out of a '93 Camaro, but need the rest of it.


solid fixture here in the forum
You can make swing panels that attach to the edge of the dash that flip up out of the way when not working on whatever is on the panels.


solid fixture here in the forum
Make sure to separate the communication wires from the power wires. It will stop the EMI/RFI noise . I ran my power leads along the firewall inside the cab, and my communication lines along the underside of the dash. My coil driver and coil are mounted behind the glove box on the firewall.
The ECU is built into the Super Sniper EFI so I kept the communication lines level with the TBI and used an existing hole that was high on the firewall above the distributor and run them though it..Make sure to use a rubber gromit on the hole so as not to scrape or cut the wires. This kept the communication wires away from the spark plug wires. All power leads that needed to enter the cab where feed through another hole in the firewall.


reliable source of info
Waiting for hardware for under dash install, like AC and wiper hardware, so pulled wire to the rear end, and found the taillight assemblies needed work...


I am going to run these full coverage rear lenses, sort of a '49 Buick taillight replica, or so I'm told...

I'll have to replace the backup light socket with a new socket that will handle both taillight and brake light bulbs...

It shouldn't be a big issue and I think the taillights will look great like this...


reliable source of info
Cleaned up the housings, drilled, tapped, and mounted the lower
sockets to take the 1157 dual circuit LED bulbs....

Have used both white paint and silver paint in the past with good results...
Chose silver for this build....

Hooked up all four circuits, a brake and a running light both
on top and below, flipped off the shop lights, it's bright !!!


reliable source of info
Decided to just solder the wires at a lot of the connections
and cover the connections with shrink tubing...



reliable source of info
Nice work 2Loose! When do you think you will have the car on the road again?

As my '58 Chevy pro street pickup, my '55 Chevy 4x4 pickup, and my '55 old style rat rod gasser are still daily drivers, I'm not hurrying this job at all. Couple hours a day when I'm not traveling or working on the "Honey-Do" list, I'm finding , is quite fulfilling. At age 77 it's probably my last big job like this, and I'm really having fun trying to figure out all the new stuff I'm being presented with, like the '93 efi system on that LT1 motor, still a bit of a mystery, let's see if I can actually get it running....
And that "one off" pull style clutch release system Chevy had put in that '93 setup, that had me running in circles until I figured out what was up, still not 100% sure I've got that one corrected....
Looking at startup in a year, next summer, let's see if I can pull it off !!
Starting to pull off the original wiper system, have a new Rain Gear system to install, and waiting for the rest of the parts to come for my Vintage Air AC system, that's next....


reliable source of info
Finishing up the tail lights....
Put shrink tubing on the connections,
Pulled the wires through some rubber tubing up to the connections....


And wrapped everythng left exposed with elec. tape....


Now to mount 'em back on and hook up to the harness....


The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
Just a tip when using shrink tube, as a protective cover,
over wires leaving an electrical socket or sensor,
Ive generally found adding some silicone sealant,

on the electrical connection to wire exit areas, to the area the shrink tube covers is a good idea to further reduce moisture damage


reliable source of info
I started work installing the new wiper system....

Pulled the old wiper system out of the cowl and out from
under the dash, and started laying out the new parts....


Tried to install the switch, but it spins in the dash,
the original switch is keyed to a slotted hole in the dash
so it won't spin, but the switch provided by RainGear has
flats that do not match up with the hole in the dash,
so it spins easily when I turn the switch on and off....
Not good....
RainGear should have done a much better job providing
a switch that would fit properly in the original '55 dash hole....


Another view


So I cut a disk of 16 ga. galv. and drilled/filed
a hole that fits the new switch nicely....



Now to figure out how to add a tab to that disk
that will key into the slotted hole in the dash,
that will prevent the switch from spinning....


Or maybe I can just glue that disk to the back side of the
dash where the switch fits, will think about that....