LT1 and a T56 in a 55 Chevy

The March Performance parts showed up, this is the install diagram:

55HT_fitPartsLT1_038s_march2016.jpg


Here's the parts that came today (below), there's only one set of idler rollers, there should be two, let's see what March says about this, I can't make this work with only one set of idlers, look closely at that diagram above....

55HT_fitPartsLT1_036s_march2016.jpg


55HT_fitPartsLT1_033s_march2016.jpg


55HT_fitPartsLT1_034s_march2016.jpg


55HT_fitPartsLT1_035s_march2016.jpg


More Here...

Aloha,
Willy
 
That's a problem Willie.
At least most of the March parts showed up.
 
Like a Pretty Woman Willie & Then She Did Her Hair & Makeup just For You.
 
I love the clear detailed pictures and the brackets you purchased and installed are rather impressive, the black powder coating looks nice.
and its surely just me, talking here, but having priced out those and similar brackets for accessories recently and in the past I can,t help thinking that money spent on a decent welder and a drill press or mill and the basic materials to build the brackets, seems like a better long term financial investment unless this is likely to be the one and only time you need custom fabricated brackets simply because theres not a darn thing they provide that you can,t have fabricated yourself for a 1/5th of the cost, and a couple weekends of careful measuring. I know you have both the tools and skills required so I can,t see dumping hundreds of dollars into brackets you could easily have fabricated and gotten powder coated , and more than likely done a BETTER JOB WITH LESS HASSLES
if you want to get fancy and do a really nice job you can fabricate custom, adjustable length torque straps with HEIM joint swivel ends,and heavy wall stainless or chrome moly steel tubing and weld a lower bracket to the frame
1211235053158970.jpeg

many times you can find a front engine mount plate and use that to weld the appropriate brackets too to make the installation of the vast majority of the brackets much faster and simpler, then once you get that worked out you trim off and areas not being useful to gain more clearance.
engfr.jpg

related threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-engine-accessory-brackets.8523/#post-29916

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hen-parts-are-not-available.11371/#post-52007

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/mig-or-tig.72/#post-3890

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/powder-coating.1519/#post-26293

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...op-needs-a-decent-drill-press.970/#post-15786

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/fabbing-custom-parts.11241/#post-50846

http://www.powernationtv.com/two-minute-tech/2min-35/make-custom-engine-mounts

http://streetrodbracketry.com/products.php?firstID=1&Show=Chevrolet&RefineShow=Aluminum Brackets#startprod



crankhub1.jpg

CrankltHub.jpg
LtHub.jpg

lt1hubv.png

https://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html
 
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Every hot rodder hates hanging accessory brackets onto 1 off projects I know Grumpy.
Nothing every fits quite right or goes as planned the 1 st time around.
It takes a skilled machinist to make one off serpentine belt pulleys on a lathe & mill old school manual non cnc .
Most refuse to do.
Spoiled by the internet age...they see & want - buy it.
 
Yeah, I know exactly in my mind how I would proceed to make my own brackets, but it would take a lot of time to get my dimensions considering the differences between the bolt hole locations front to rear on the right and on the left of the block and relative to the crank pulley. I've got too many other projects going on at the same time and I'm not getting any younger! So just decided to speed it up and go this route. But boy, is this stuff pricey!

But your comments are right on!
Willy
 
Played around with the power steering pump orientation, started out with this as indicated by March Performance:
55HT_fitPartsLT1_054s_march2016.jpg


55HT_fitPartsLT1_055s_march2016.jpg

But there are obvious problems with the hose connections and the a-arm mount and the header tubes...

so tried this:
55HT_fitPartsLT1_057s_march2016.jpg

Still have hose problems with the alternator and the header tubes...

so tried this:
55HT_fitPartsLT1_063s_march2016.jpg

I can make this position work....

Improved the alternator mount, as for some reason MP sent me
an extra adjustor rod adapter, so I used them both....
55HT_fitPartsLT1_061s_march2016.jpg


And changed the mount for the AC compressor to this:
55HT_fitPartsLT1_064s_march2016.jpg

Spacers will be added on that bolt each side of the adjuster rod...
Aloha,
Willy

More Pix HERE....
 
Got some more work done....
55HT_fitPartsLT1_077s_march2016.jpg


55HT_fitPartsLT1_078s_march2016.jpg


55HT_fitPartsLT1_079s_march2016.jpg


Had to do a bit of remedial work to correct some deficiencies in the way these MP brackets were set up, and had to wait for some parts that were not shipped with the initial order. But I'm pretty happy with the way the setup is turning out.

Still waiting for the new Corvette style LT1 flanged crank hub to arrive from ATI to replace my Camaro hub, which will relocate the damper further forward and align it with the MP LT1 "Outward Mount" pulley system.

The Camaro LT1 hub I'm using here is temporarily located in a forward position in order to facilitate the fitting of these other MP components.

Lots More Pix HERE....
Aloha,
Willy
 
I've yet to install any of the "kits" by March or others without having to modify or make something. However it's still a HUGE time saver compared with making everything custom. The black looks nice!
 
I'm VERY impressed with, both the progress and your ability to post clear pictures of your engines brackets, and engine build.
 
Many Thanks...
Family considerations have pulled me away for a bit,
but I will be back at it soon...
Willy
 
Meanwhile, ATI sent the wrong hub for the revised crank damper setup that I need....

My Camaro LT1 hub is on the right, according to ATI that left hub is a blower drive hub for a small block Ford, don't think I can get that to work here...
ATI04.jpg

lt1-4hub.jpg

That's the Ford hub on the right in this pic....
Larger OD crank snout, different drill pattern for the damper mount....
ATI02.jpg


The give-away was this part number on the new ATI hub, ATI says it is a ford small block blower drive hub....
ATI01.jpg


But the box it was shipped in had the correct part number on it for the flanged hub I need for the Corvette LT1 motor...
ATI03.jpg


So now I have another delay while I ship this part back and wait for them to ship me the correct part...
Aaarrrhhhggg!!!
 
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Finally got the correct ATI Corvette LT1 flanged crankshaft hub for the damper today. It is quite a bit longer than the Camaro hub...

ATI06.jpg


The holes were all in the correct location, and the damper bolted up to the hub correctly....

ATI05.jpg


ATI07.jpg


Now to see how well it aligns with the March accessories mounting system...
Aloha,
Willy
 
It turns out that this new ATI LT1 flanged hub is seriously too tight for the crankshaft.

As the older ATI LT1 (Camaro version) fits normally with no problems on this crankshaft snout, the problem is with the ATI hub.

Right now I have a broken bolt inside the crank from trying to install the assembled damper with the new hub, and a stripped damper puller from trying to remove this hub after breaking the installer bolt.

ATI15.jpg


I've had this damper puller for many years,
it takes a serously too tight hub to cause this center bolt on this puller to strip the threads like it did on this one...
ATI14.jpg


Here's some sketches from the first install attempt, showing that I still needed to go about another half inch to get it on all the way, that's why the crank pulley didn't line up with the accessory pulleys...
ATI16.jpg


Now I have to disassemble the damper from the hub, and heat the hub to try to loosen and remove it, and then remove the broken bolt stub from the crankshaft...

Am I having fun yet???
Willy

More Photos HERE....
 
The New Generation of ATI Balancers require you to custom Hone Fit the Balancer Hub to the the Crankshaft Willie.
.0015" -.002" interference fit.
It must be done on a Sunnen Honing Machine.
Exact same as used to resize big end of connecting rods.
Machine shop Tooling.
Get a Solid Carbide Drill Bit. It will drill through that broken bolt like a Hot knife Cutting through Butter.
Its a $50 drill bit but worth it.
Not a Masonary bit.
But a 100% Solid Carbide Steel drill bit.

Find A Snap On Puller.
Its the Very Best.
 
I don't like ATI Balancers much.
PIA as you found out.
I bought TCI Rattler Race Balancers For my Race 455 T/A Engine & for my 410 Sbc engine. $850 spent to buy both Rattlers.
 
I did get the stuck balancer off, and the busted bolt out today...
Thought about honing it, but with the tools I have it would undoubtedly catch that keyway and bust up...
But a professional level Sunnen, that'd be the ticket...
Just might know someone with just such a tool....
 
It turns out that ATI is making the latest "Super Damper"s with an "undersized" interference fit, requiring a machine shop to hone to fit on a Sunnen rod hone.

Here's an excerpt from a document on the ATI web site...
Super-Damper_Page_2_Hone.jpg


OK, a visit to my local machine shop on Monday...
Willy
 
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