http://afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm
Heads and Cam Install Guide for a 1994 LT-1
written by Alex Afrashteh
Before you start, these are the things you will need :
10 quarts of dino oil (do not use synthetic for initial startup)
5 quarts of your preferred oil (for use right after install)
3 oil filters (2 standards, and 1 of your favorite)
2 gallons of coolant
2 gallons of distilled water
2 head gaskets
2 intake manifold gaskets
2 exhaust manifold gaskets
2 water pump gaskets
2 TB gaskets (one for TB itself and one for IAC)
2 water pump O-ring seals
1 timing cover gasket kit
RTV sealant
Thread sealant
Antiseize
Loctite (medium grade)
Liquid wrench (spray type is better)
Assembly lube (necessary for lifters, cam, pushrods, and rockers) - should come with cam
Harmonic balancer puller
A longer bolt that matches the crankshaft bolt (preferrably high grade tempered steel).
Crankshaft sprocket puller and installer if you are replacing the crankshaft sprocket.
Water pump driveshaft puller and installer if you are replacing it.
GM fuel rail disconnect tool.
Torque wrench - you don't need higher than 70 ft. lb. (in. lb. and ft. lb., but you can get away with just ft. lb.)
Fender covers. You may also want to get quilts to cover more area.
Comprehensive tool kit with swivel attachments for socket wrench.
Helms manual - about $90. An absolute MUST.
These are two large diagrams of the top-end and bottom-end of the engine that will be of help during the install.
I will leave the install guide up only for reference. I think the best thing to do with this page is use it for advice. The LT-1 can be disassembled and reassembled many different ways. I'll put up the tips/advice for the problems that I ran into. Some may seem obvious, but I don't want to leave anything out.
Tips and Advice :
I recommend you chase all threads (good excuse to buy a quality tap & die kit) and clean all reused bolts/screws/etc. before reinstalling. Bolts/screws/etc. that will not have anything put on it (antiseize, loctite, etc.) should be doused in engine oil. This will ensure proper torqueing and decrease the chance of stripping the bolt/thread.
Take off the hood and jack the front of the car up. Use the left and right side of the cross member (at the joint) for support. Make sure you use good jackstands, you're gonna be under the car a lot and you will need to feel safe. If you want to use a creeper, you will need something that is real low to the ground.
Removal
Radiator, etc. - The fans rest on the radiator with hook clips. The fans should be removed first from the bottom. Once the fans are off, you should see that the radiator is actually hook clipped to the AC radiator. Keep in mind, there are two tranny cooler lines that need to be pulled on the passenger side.
Dipsticks - on my car, we did not have to remove the tranny dipstick or oil dipstick. It's not difficult to get out, but there's always a chance you will bend it when putting it back in.
Fuel rail - you will need the fuel disconnect tool unless you want to just push the fuel rail aside. When we were pulling them, it felt like they weren't working, but it just turns out that you need to press pretty hard in order for the ring to push the metal tabs out of the way. Keep in mind there are two and they are different sizes.
Intake manifold - when removing the intake manifold, make sure you disconnect the tube on the passenger side. It is mounted on with 2 studs/nuts. I can't remember the size. Best if you stand in the engine compartment when you do it. Also, watch the oil pressure switch on the back of the block - we broke it on mine.
Lifters - keep there orientation and position when you pull them. Mine had 63,000 miles on them and looked real good, so you will probably want to reuse them.
Water pump - nothing special here. You will need to remove the AIR and its bracket because one side of the bracket is mounted on a stud off a waterpump bolt.
Harmonic Balancer - you will need a puller for this. The Helms manual is deceiving, the harmonic balancer and hub are stuck together *real* good and most likely won't separate. Make sure you back the crank bolt out some so you have something to push against when pulling the harmonic balancer. My car did not have a key for this piece even though there was a moonshape cut in the crank for one. If you are removing the crank sprocket, you'll see that it has a key.
Timing cover - be careful when you pull the timing cover. There are two tabs at the bottom half of the timing cover that hold the lower rubber gasket on the oil pan. Try not to break them. I broke one and it actually helped me get the cover back on, but see if you can retain them. Use two large screw drivers (or some sort of wedge) to hold the tabs on. Lowering the oil pan a inch or so makes this so much easier. When you have it together, I recommend using RTV to make sure you have a good seal.
Cam - nothing special here, just make sure you pull it out straight so you don't score the bearings. You may be able to swivel the AC radiator out of the way, but when we loosened the fitting and started to turn, the fitting started to leak and one of lines was starting to bend. You may want to save your energy and just drain the system. It is under a lot of pressure and there are TWO bleeders, so be careful. If you bleed your AC, pull the AC relay so you don't turn it on by accident.
Heads - there is some sort of cooling line that runs on the back of the heads that is bolted on to each head. Those suckers are on there good, so I recommend you unbolt the heads and take them off at the same time. When you put them down, don't bend the metal tube! Some have broken the metal lines and replaced them with rubber tubing.
Bracket assembly - don't disconnect the PS pump hose as you don't need to move it that much. The bracket is a pain to work with but it can be messed with. There is no need to disconnect the AC compressor either.
Exhaust manifolds - these are a big pain. Make sure you don't lose any of the spacers. It would be best if you put them back in the same hole they came from (assuming you are not doing headers). The collector bolts should definitely be soaked in liquid wrench. If you don't, they break and it's difficult to get them out (we drilled two of them out).
Make sure you clean the block real good before you start assembling. We used 1500 grit sandpaper. Get a lot of sheets so you don't run out.
Assembly
Cam - Before you install the cam, compare it to the old one. Make sure the dowel is on the correct side. If you have an Opti that is driven by the dowel, the dowel will be long - if not, the dowel should be short. If it is too long, get the cam in first and mark where you want to cut with the cam sprocket on. Cutting it with a dremel is the way to go. You will probably want to deburr the edges after you cut it. When installing the new cam, be generous with the cam lube. Keep the cam level and use a slight rolling motion when you put it in.
Sprockets - hang the chain on the cam sprocket and wrap it around the crank sprocket. Line up the two dots (make sure the chain is sitting in the correct teeth so they do line up) and put the cam sprocket on. When you do this, spin the waterpump gear a little so that it meshes with the cam sprocket. Use Locktite on cam sprocket bolts.
Heads - Put the spark plugs in before you put the heads in (remember to use antiseize). Put the tubes on the back of the heads and install the same way you pulled them. Make sure you don't move the gaskets by utilizing the locator pins. Torque those puppies down right! There are two washers that may not fit because of spring seats. Use a grinder and grind them to fit.
Wiring - do this before you put the exhaust manifolds on. Make sure to use the metal sleeves. The stock looms are definitely useful for routing. If you are doing headers, you'll probably have to put the headers on first, then do the routing.
Timing cover - I made a conceptual mistake when preparing for the timing cover. I thought the two O-rings for the waterpump driveshaft were the pieces that would tear - wrong. The water pump driveshaft seal on the timing cover is what gets ripped up! This should be installed *after* the timing cover is on (and I recommend you use the stock one). Installing the timing cover with the oil pan gasket on right is another story. Some have been able to do it, but I had to lower the oil pan in order to get the clearance I needed to get it on right. On the driver's side, you'll need to disconnect the oil cooler lines (if you have one) to get access to the bolts. The passenger side has a bracket for the tranny cooler lines in one of the oil pan studs. Once you get it off, swivel it and push it out of the way. Most of the bolts are 3/8", make sure not to back the bolts out all the way. Lightly pry the oil pan from the front to get the access you need. When the cover is on, I recommend you use a healthy amount of RTV where the two tabs were to ensure a good seal.
Optispark - not too big of a deal. With the '94, you can't put the thing on right unless it's lined up right. Don't force it though.
Harmonic Balancer - you will not be able to install the balancer with the stock crank bolt. I had to go to the store and get the same bolt, just longer. I also made sure it was higher grade. Use oil on the crank and inner lip of the harmonic balancer to help matters. Also, don't forget to oil the seal on the timing cover. This is important as you could burn it up on startup if it is not prelubed. Use your bolt (with spacers if necessary) to pull the balancer back on. Go slowly and don't force it if it isn't going on. Also, make sure the arrow points up so that you know where TDC is (this assumes the dot on the crank sprocket was either pointing up or down).
Water pump - don't forget the two O-rings. Also, keep in mind that one of the bolts is studded and the stud is used to help mount the AIR pump. Use RTV on the gaskets to hold them and ensure a good seal. The top locators on the timing cover will help you put the water pump on.
Rockers - The CC Pro Magnum rockers I got had grooves in them so that they could be locked down correctly. You will know what I mean if you have them - when you try to tighten down the locking screw (allen), it will go in too far. If this is the case, it means the rocker in on upside down. Use the instructions in the manual below to adjust your rockers. The manual says 1 turn past 0 lash. I went with 1/2 turn past 0 lash.
Valve covers - I had to modify mine to get them to go on. They were a tight fit, but cutting into the supports did the trick.
Intake manifold - there are a lot of little things on the intake manifold. If you got a new one, make sure to transfer ALL the parts over, including the fittings. The Felpro gaskets I got had plastic locators for the intake manifold gaskets - very helpful. Before you put the manifold on, make sure you put down a healthy bead of RTV on the front and back of the block. Extend them up about an inch to the heads. Watch the oil pressure switch when you put it on.
Fuel rail - You needn't remove the clips that hold them to the rail, they come all together (rail and injectors) off the intake manifold. You will need to push them back in to the manifold. If you have to force them in, you're not doing it right. Try oiling the o-rings.
Exhaust manifolds - definitely a pain. Make sure you use the spacers and get the studded bolts in the right places. The gaskets for mine had to be slightly cut.
Radiator, etc. - do the reverse of disassembly. AC first, then the radiator. Make sure you don't miss any of the clips. Once they are in, the fans go in from the bottom. There is also the electrical connections, the tranny lines, and the AC lines.
Everything else - it does go together relatively intuitively, but having another car to base off of is important. Get some people involved who have LT1 engines! Double check your wires and check all the hoses to make sure they are in.
Manual
Disassembly
Let the car cool for a few hours, your hands will thank you.
Take off the hood and store it somewhere safe.
Draining Coolant :
Remove coolant reservoir cap. (Note : There can be pressure build up, so be careful)
Lift drive belt tensioner assembly downward (counter clock) off drive belt and remove serpentine belt.
Drain radiator using radiator drain cock assembly. (Refer to diagram )
Open both bleed vents. (Note : If you are reusing your Optispark, be very careful not to get it wet)
Remove drain hold plug and knock sensor located on both sides of engine. This will drain the block.
The coolant can be saved or disposed of properly. (please : not the drain)
Jack up front of the car. Block off rear tires. Put car in Neutral with parking brake. (Note: You may want to jack up at all 4 corners)
Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
Relieve fuel pressure by opening fuel cap.
Removing radiator and accessories :
Remove radiator air upper baffle assembly. (Refer to diagram)
Remove entire air intake system up to throttle body. Don't forget to disconnect the IAT.
Disconnect fan wires and remove fans from radiator (from bottom).
Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines.
Disconnect electrical connector at coolant level sensor (under waterpump) and remove sensor.
Remove radiator air lower baffle assembly deflector. (Refer to diagram)
Remove radiator air baffle assembly. (Refer to diagram)
Remove hose from radiator to thermostat housing.
Remove hose from water pump to radiator.
Remove hoses on TB.
Remove radiator/fans from top of car (four clips).
Removing the intake manifold :
Remove battery.
Remove alternator and alternator bracket.
Detach wires. (Refer to diagram & diagram)
Remove wiring harness to injectors (they are labeled).
Left and right wiring harness.
Remove accelerator cable bracket bolts/screws, bracket & cables from TB.
Disconnect accelerator cruise control servo cable adjuster assembly.
Remove secondary air injection diverter valve hose.
Disconnect fuel pipe connector from fuel rail (use disconnect tool).
Remove fuel rail bolts. (Refer to diagram )
Remove pressure regulator vacuum tube assembly (rubber pipe).
Push fuel rail aside.
Disconnect vacuum and crankcase vent hoses. (Note : this is a good time to check the PCV. Shake it, if you feel something inside is moving back and forth, it is good)
Remove EGR and it's accessories. If heads are not being pulled, you needn�t disconnect the EGR tube from the passenger side header. (Refer to diagram )
Remove secondary air injection pipe fitting, nuts, and pipe assembly. (Refer to diagram )
Remove TB and discard gasket. (Refer to diagram )
Remove intake manifold. If reusing bolts, keep them in order. Discard gaskets.
If you are upgrading the TB, remove all pieces from the old TB. Throw out the IAC gasket as you should have a new one.
Thoroughly clean intake gasket surface. Doing this right will save you trouble. (Note : Put something in your lifter valley to prevent gasket material from getting into the engine)
Head preparation for cam removal
Remove fluid level indicator tube from transmission housing (A4 only).
Remove brake boost vacuum hose.
Remove valve covers. (Note : you can most likely reuse the rubber gaskets)
Remove both valve covers.
Remove rockers and all the pushrods. If reusing, keep them all in order including the balls and nuts.
Remove lifter valley guide.
Remove all lifters and their guides. If reusing, keep them all in order. This would be a good time to inspect them. If you feel that any of them are not good, get a new set or replace that one.
Remove oil pump driveshaft (one bolt).
Removing water pump, timing cover, and timing chain assembly
Remove the coil and its bracket (on driver's side head). Since you are removing it, it's a good idea to replace the coil.
Unbolt air motor and remove.
Unbolt water pump and cover bolts. Remove the water pump. (Refer to diagram ) (Note : If you are reusing the Optispark, make sure not to get it wet)
Discard both water pump gaskets and clean gasket surface area.
Remove shaft coupling, discard O-rings.
Unbolt 3 bolts to remove the harmonic balancer. (Refer to diagram )
Match mark the hub to timing cover. Remove the bolt and washer from front of crank and remove the hub using a hub puller. (Note : you do not have to match mark the hub, there in another way to correctly align the hub on the crank).
Pull spark plug wires from Opti. For ease of assembly, you can label wires.
Pull PCM connector from Opti and pull Opti forward (3 torx screws). Store it in a safe, dry place if you are reusing it. Make sure the Opti driveshaft is not stuck in the cam sprocket, keep it with the Opti. (Refer to diagram )
If you so desire, loosen some of the oil pan bolts up front and slightly lower the pan.
Unbolt front timing cover.
Slowly and gently remove the timing cover. Use special care NOT to break the seal at the oil pan by using some sort of wedge (a large flat head screw driver will work). Discard timing cover gasket. (Refer to diagram )
If you are not replacing the sprockets, align dots on two sprockets. Try not to turn crankshaft after this is done.
Unbolt 3 bolts to get the cam sprocket off, rethread them back into the cam. (Refer to diagram for next few steps)
Remove timing chain (I recommend you have a replacement)
Remove water pump retainer and use GM tool J39243 to remove water pump gear. (Note : only do this if you are replacing the water pump gear. If you are going to an LT4 timing kit, you may want to consider changing the water pump gear. Many have not and gotten away with it, but for ~$50, it's cheap insurance)
Use sprocket remover to remove crankshaft sprocket. Remove the key and put it somewhere safe. (Note : only do this if you are replacing the crankshaft sprocket)
Cam Removal
Remove cam retainer with torx tool.
Unbolt AC condenser support assembly.
Unbolt the mount for the AC dryer (cylindrical can near battery). Slowly unscrew the fitting on the dryer just enough so you can swivel the condenser away. Don't get too worked up, the worst that can happen is you discharge the AC.
Swivel the condenser away enough to clear room for cam removal.
Carefully remove cam. Use a rolling motion when you are taking the cam out. Take care not to score cam bearing by keeping the cam level. (Note : You may find it to be a very tight fit. You may need to remove the hood latch to remove/install the cam)
Swivel the condenser back but do not retighten the fitting. (Note : you may want to skip to the assembly section and read the section about putting the new cam in so you don�t have to swivel the condenser again)
Driver side head removal (not necessary if you are not replacing heads)
Remove bolts from y-pipe to driver side manifold. These bolts can be difficult to get off, use WD40 or equivalent.
Remove coolant air bleed pipe bolt/screw.
Disconnect O2 sensor cable.
Remove driver side exhaust manifold assembly. Don't lose the spacers. The Helms manual recommends you put the bolts back in the same places they came from. (Refer to diagram ) (Note : If you still have difficulty with the next steps, remove the Y-pipe too)
Remove spark plug wires. If reusing, keep there order in harness for ease of installation.
Remove 4 spark plugs. If reusing, take special care not to drop them.
Remove coolant temperature sensor connector.
Remove any other accessories not covered.
Remove 17 head bolts. If reusing, keep bolts in order.
Pull head and discard gasket.
Passenger side head removal (not necessary if you are not replacing heads)
Disconnect AC compressor rear brace bolt from engine block.
Disconnect AC compressor electrical connector.
Unbolt AC and lay aside.
Remove oil dipstick.
Remove bolts from y-pipe to passenger side manifold. These bolts can be difficult to get off, use WD40 or equivalent.
Remove passenger side exhaust manifold assembly. Don't lose the spacers. The Helms manual recommends you put the bolts back in the same places they came from. (Refer to diagram )
Remove coolant air bleed pipe bolt/screw.
Remove 2 bolts from PS pump through pulley. Remove or push PS pump aside.
Remove spark plug wires. If reusing, keep there order in harness for ease of install
Remove 4 spark plugs. If reusing, take special care not to drop them.
Remove any other accessories not covered.
Remove 17 head bolts. If reusing, keep bolts in order.
Pull head and discard gasket.
Thoroughly clean surfaces of block. (Note : Put something in your lifter valley to prevent gasket material from getting into the engine)
Assembly
Cam installation
Look at dowel on the new cam - Is it the same length as the old one? If not, remove the dowel from the old cam and put it in the new one. Alternatively, the dowel on the new cam can be ground down to the correct length if it is too long.
Carefully, swivel the condenser up and out of the way.
Lubricate new cam lobes with cam lube. Be generous with the application.
Insert new cam. Take care not to score cam bearing by keeping the cam level. When installing cam, use a rolling motion and lubricate journals with engine oil as you insert the cam. Take your time on this step. (Note : You may find it to be a very tight fit. You may need to remove the hood latch to put the cam in)
Swivel condenser back and retighten fitting.
Install cam retainer and tighten bolts to 105 lb. in.
Remove three bolts from cam for later install.
Install oil pump driveshaft. Torque bolt to 13 lb. ft.
Heads installation
Make sure head and block surfaces are clean.
Install head gaskets. Make sure you get it on the right way.
Use locator pins to place heads.
Coat all head bolts with thread sealing compound.
Thread bolts (17 each) into the heads.
There is a very specific order to tightening the bolts (see picture below). Tighten them in three sequences to a final spec of 65 lb. ft. (this spec is for stock bolts, if you have new ones, use the spec given by the bolt manufacturer). Don�t fudge this, if you do, you may warp the heads as they are aluminum.
Heads and Cam Install Guide for a 1994 LT-1
written by Alex Afrashteh
Before you start, these are the things you will need :
10 quarts of dino oil (do not use synthetic for initial startup)
5 quarts of your preferred oil (for use right after install)
3 oil filters (2 standards, and 1 of your favorite)
2 gallons of coolant
2 gallons of distilled water
2 head gaskets
2 intake manifold gaskets
2 exhaust manifold gaskets
2 water pump gaskets
2 TB gaskets (one for TB itself and one for IAC)
2 water pump O-ring seals
1 timing cover gasket kit
RTV sealant
Thread sealant
Antiseize
Loctite (medium grade)
Liquid wrench (spray type is better)
Assembly lube (necessary for lifters, cam, pushrods, and rockers) - should come with cam
Harmonic balancer puller
A longer bolt that matches the crankshaft bolt (preferrably high grade tempered steel).
Crankshaft sprocket puller and installer if you are replacing the crankshaft sprocket.
Water pump driveshaft puller and installer if you are replacing it.
GM fuel rail disconnect tool.
Torque wrench - you don't need higher than 70 ft. lb. (in. lb. and ft. lb., but you can get away with just ft. lb.)
Fender covers. You may also want to get quilts to cover more area.
Comprehensive tool kit with swivel attachments for socket wrench.
Helms manual - about $90. An absolute MUST.
These are two large diagrams of the top-end and bottom-end of the engine that will be of help during the install.
I will leave the install guide up only for reference. I think the best thing to do with this page is use it for advice. The LT-1 can be disassembled and reassembled many different ways. I'll put up the tips/advice for the problems that I ran into. Some may seem obvious, but I don't want to leave anything out.
Tips and Advice :
I recommend you chase all threads (good excuse to buy a quality tap & die kit) and clean all reused bolts/screws/etc. before reinstalling. Bolts/screws/etc. that will not have anything put on it (antiseize, loctite, etc.) should be doused in engine oil. This will ensure proper torqueing and decrease the chance of stripping the bolt/thread.
Take off the hood and jack the front of the car up. Use the left and right side of the cross member (at the joint) for support. Make sure you use good jackstands, you're gonna be under the car a lot and you will need to feel safe. If you want to use a creeper, you will need something that is real low to the ground.
Removal
Radiator, etc. - The fans rest on the radiator with hook clips. The fans should be removed first from the bottom. Once the fans are off, you should see that the radiator is actually hook clipped to the AC radiator. Keep in mind, there are two tranny cooler lines that need to be pulled on the passenger side.
Dipsticks - on my car, we did not have to remove the tranny dipstick or oil dipstick. It's not difficult to get out, but there's always a chance you will bend it when putting it back in.
Fuel rail - you will need the fuel disconnect tool unless you want to just push the fuel rail aside. When we were pulling them, it felt like they weren't working, but it just turns out that you need to press pretty hard in order for the ring to push the metal tabs out of the way. Keep in mind there are two and they are different sizes.
Intake manifold - when removing the intake manifold, make sure you disconnect the tube on the passenger side. It is mounted on with 2 studs/nuts. I can't remember the size. Best if you stand in the engine compartment when you do it. Also, watch the oil pressure switch on the back of the block - we broke it on mine.
Lifters - keep there orientation and position when you pull them. Mine had 63,000 miles on them and looked real good, so you will probably want to reuse them.
Water pump - nothing special here. You will need to remove the AIR and its bracket because one side of the bracket is mounted on a stud off a waterpump bolt.
Harmonic Balancer - you will need a puller for this. The Helms manual is deceiving, the harmonic balancer and hub are stuck together *real* good and most likely won't separate. Make sure you back the crank bolt out some so you have something to push against when pulling the harmonic balancer. My car did not have a key for this piece even though there was a moonshape cut in the crank for one. If you are removing the crank sprocket, you'll see that it has a key.
Timing cover - be careful when you pull the timing cover. There are two tabs at the bottom half of the timing cover that hold the lower rubber gasket on the oil pan. Try not to break them. I broke one and it actually helped me get the cover back on, but see if you can retain them. Use two large screw drivers (or some sort of wedge) to hold the tabs on. Lowering the oil pan a inch or so makes this so much easier. When you have it together, I recommend using RTV to make sure you have a good seal.
Cam - nothing special here, just make sure you pull it out straight so you don't score the bearings. You may be able to swivel the AC radiator out of the way, but when we loosened the fitting and started to turn, the fitting started to leak and one of lines was starting to bend. You may want to save your energy and just drain the system. It is under a lot of pressure and there are TWO bleeders, so be careful. If you bleed your AC, pull the AC relay so you don't turn it on by accident.
Heads - there is some sort of cooling line that runs on the back of the heads that is bolted on to each head. Those suckers are on there good, so I recommend you unbolt the heads and take them off at the same time. When you put them down, don't bend the metal tube! Some have broken the metal lines and replaced them with rubber tubing.
Bracket assembly - don't disconnect the PS pump hose as you don't need to move it that much. The bracket is a pain to work with but it can be messed with. There is no need to disconnect the AC compressor either.
Exhaust manifolds - these are a big pain. Make sure you don't lose any of the spacers. It would be best if you put them back in the same hole they came from (assuming you are not doing headers). The collector bolts should definitely be soaked in liquid wrench. If you don't, they break and it's difficult to get them out (we drilled two of them out).
Make sure you clean the block real good before you start assembling. We used 1500 grit sandpaper. Get a lot of sheets so you don't run out.
Assembly
Cam - Before you install the cam, compare it to the old one. Make sure the dowel is on the correct side. If you have an Opti that is driven by the dowel, the dowel will be long - if not, the dowel should be short. If it is too long, get the cam in first and mark where you want to cut with the cam sprocket on. Cutting it with a dremel is the way to go. You will probably want to deburr the edges after you cut it. When installing the new cam, be generous with the cam lube. Keep the cam level and use a slight rolling motion when you put it in.
Sprockets - hang the chain on the cam sprocket and wrap it around the crank sprocket. Line up the two dots (make sure the chain is sitting in the correct teeth so they do line up) and put the cam sprocket on. When you do this, spin the waterpump gear a little so that it meshes with the cam sprocket. Use Locktite on cam sprocket bolts.
Heads - Put the spark plugs in before you put the heads in (remember to use antiseize). Put the tubes on the back of the heads and install the same way you pulled them. Make sure you don't move the gaskets by utilizing the locator pins. Torque those puppies down right! There are two washers that may not fit because of spring seats. Use a grinder and grind them to fit.
Wiring - do this before you put the exhaust manifolds on. Make sure to use the metal sleeves. The stock looms are definitely useful for routing. If you are doing headers, you'll probably have to put the headers on first, then do the routing.
Timing cover - I made a conceptual mistake when preparing for the timing cover. I thought the two O-rings for the waterpump driveshaft were the pieces that would tear - wrong. The water pump driveshaft seal on the timing cover is what gets ripped up! This should be installed *after* the timing cover is on (and I recommend you use the stock one). Installing the timing cover with the oil pan gasket on right is another story. Some have been able to do it, but I had to lower the oil pan in order to get the clearance I needed to get it on right. On the driver's side, you'll need to disconnect the oil cooler lines (if you have one) to get access to the bolts. The passenger side has a bracket for the tranny cooler lines in one of the oil pan studs. Once you get it off, swivel it and push it out of the way. Most of the bolts are 3/8", make sure not to back the bolts out all the way. Lightly pry the oil pan from the front to get the access you need. When the cover is on, I recommend you use a healthy amount of RTV where the two tabs were to ensure a good seal.
Optispark - not too big of a deal. With the '94, you can't put the thing on right unless it's lined up right. Don't force it though.
Harmonic Balancer - you will not be able to install the balancer with the stock crank bolt. I had to go to the store and get the same bolt, just longer. I also made sure it was higher grade. Use oil on the crank and inner lip of the harmonic balancer to help matters. Also, don't forget to oil the seal on the timing cover. This is important as you could burn it up on startup if it is not prelubed. Use your bolt (with spacers if necessary) to pull the balancer back on. Go slowly and don't force it if it isn't going on. Also, make sure the arrow points up so that you know where TDC is (this assumes the dot on the crank sprocket was either pointing up or down).
Water pump - don't forget the two O-rings. Also, keep in mind that one of the bolts is studded and the stud is used to help mount the AIR pump. Use RTV on the gaskets to hold them and ensure a good seal. The top locators on the timing cover will help you put the water pump on.
Rockers - The CC Pro Magnum rockers I got had grooves in them so that they could be locked down correctly. You will know what I mean if you have them - when you try to tighten down the locking screw (allen), it will go in too far. If this is the case, it means the rocker in on upside down. Use the instructions in the manual below to adjust your rockers. The manual says 1 turn past 0 lash. I went with 1/2 turn past 0 lash.
Valve covers - I had to modify mine to get them to go on. They were a tight fit, but cutting into the supports did the trick.
Intake manifold - there are a lot of little things on the intake manifold. If you got a new one, make sure to transfer ALL the parts over, including the fittings. The Felpro gaskets I got had plastic locators for the intake manifold gaskets - very helpful. Before you put the manifold on, make sure you put down a healthy bead of RTV on the front and back of the block. Extend them up about an inch to the heads. Watch the oil pressure switch when you put it on.
Fuel rail - You needn't remove the clips that hold them to the rail, they come all together (rail and injectors) off the intake manifold. You will need to push them back in to the manifold. If you have to force them in, you're not doing it right. Try oiling the o-rings.
Exhaust manifolds - definitely a pain. Make sure you use the spacers and get the studded bolts in the right places. The gaskets for mine had to be slightly cut.
Radiator, etc. - do the reverse of disassembly. AC first, then the radiator. Make sure you don't miss any of the clips. Once they are in, the fans go in from the bottom. There is also the electrical connections, the tranny lines, and the AC lines.
Everything else - it does go together relatively intuitively, but having another car to base off of is important. Get some people involved who have LT1 engines! Double check your wires and check all the hoses to make sure they are in.
Manual
Disassembly
Let the car cool for a few hours, your hands will thank you.
Take off the hood and store it somewhere safe.
Draining Coolant :
Remove coolant reservoir cap. (Note : There can be pressure build up, so be careful)
Lift drive belt tensioner assembly downward (counter clock) off drive belt and remove serpentine belt.
Drain radiator using radiator drain cock assembly. (Refer to diagram )
Open both bleed vents. (Note : If you are reusing your Optispark, be very careful not to get it wet)
Remove drain hold plug and knock sensor located on both sides of engine. This will drain the block.
The coolant can be saved or disposed of properly. (please : not the drain)
Jack up front of the car. Block off rear tires. Put car in Neutral with parking brake. (Note: You may want to jack up at all 4 corners)
Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
Relieve fuel pressure by opening fuel cap.
Removing radiator and accessories :
Remove radiator air upper baffle assembly. (Refer to diagram)
Remove entire air intake system up to throttle body. Don't forget to disconnect the IAT.
Disconnect fan wires and remove fans from radiator (from bottom).
Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines.
Disconnect electrical connector at coolant level sensor (under waterpump) and remove sensor.
Remove radiator air lower baffle assembly deflector. (Refer to diagram)
Remove radiator air baffle assembly. (Refer to diagram)
Remove hose from radiator to thermostat housing.
Remove hose from water pump to radiator.
Remove hoses on TB.
Remove radiator/fans from top of car (four clips).
Removing the intake manifold :
Remove battery.
Remove alternator and alternator bracket.
Detach wires. (Refer to diagram & diagram)
Remove wiring harness to injectors (they are labeled).
Left and right wiring harness.
Remove accelerator cable bracket bolts/screws, bracket & cables from TB.
Disconnect accelerator cruise control servo cable adjuster assembly.
Remove secondary air injection diverter valve hose.
Disconnect fuel pipe connector from fuel rail (use disconnect tool).
Remove fuel rail bolts. (Refer to diagram )
Remove pressure regulator vacuum tube assembly (rubber pipe).
Push fuel rail aside.
Disconnect vacuum and crankcase vent hoses. (Note : this is a good time to check the PCV. Shake it, if you feel something inside is moving back and forth, it is good)
Remove EGR and it's accessories. If heads are not being pulled, you needn�t disconnect the EGR tube from the passenger side header. (Refer to diagram )
Remove secondary air injection pipe fitting, nuts, and pipe assembly. (Refer to diagram )
Remove TB and discard gasket. (Refer to diagram )
Remove intake manifold. If reusing bolts, keep them in order. Discard gaskets.
If you are upgrading the TB, remove all pieces from the old TB. Throw out the IAC gasket as you should have a new one.
Thoroughly clean intake gasket surface. Doing this right will save you trouble. (Note : Put something in your lifter valley to prevent gasket material from getting into the engine)
Head preparation for cam removal
Remove fluid level indicator tube from transmission housing (A4 only).
Remove brake boost vacuum hose.
Remove valve covers. (Note : you can most likely reuse the rubber gaskets)
Remove both valve covers.
Remove rockers and all the pushrods. If reusing, keep them all in order including the balls and nuts.
Remove lifter valley guide.
Remove all lifters and their guides. If reusing, keep them all in order. This would be a good time to inspect them. If you feel that any of them are not good, get a new set or replace that one.
Remove oil pump driveshaft (one bolt).
Removing water pump, timing cover, and timing chain assembly
Remove the coil and its bracket (on driver's side head). Since you are removing it, it's a good idea to replace the coil.
Unbolt air motor and remove.
Unbolt water pump and cover bolts. Remove the water pump. (Refer to diagram ) (Note : If you are reusing the Optispark, make sure not to get it wet)
Discard both water pump gaskets and clean gasket surface area.
Remove shaft coupling, discard O-rings.
Unbolt 3 bolts to remove the harmonic balancer. (Refer to diagram )
Match mark the hub to timing cover. Remove the bolt and washer from front of crank and remove the hub using a hub puller. (Note : you do not have to match mark the hub, there in another way to correctly align the hub on the crank).
Pull spark plug wires from Opti. For ease of assembly, you can label wires.
Pull PCM connector from Opti and pull Opti forward (3 torx screws). Store it in a safe, dry place if you are reusing it. Make sure the Opti driveshaft is not stuck in the cam sprocket, keep it with the Opti. (Refer to diagram )
If you so desire, loosen some of the oil pan bolts up front and slightly lower the pan.
Unbolt front timing cover.
Slowly and gently remove the timing cover. Use special care NOT to break the seal at the oil pan by using some sort of wedge (a large flat head screw driver will work). Discard timing cover gasket. (Refer to diagram )
If you are not replacing the sprockets, align dots on two sprockets. Try not to turn crankshaft after this is done.
Unbolt 3 bolts to get the cam sprocket off, rethread them back into the cam. (Refer to diagram for next few steps)
Remove timing chain (I recommend you have a replacement)
Remove water pump retainer and use GM tool J39243 to remove water pump gear. (Note : only do this if you are replacing the water pump gear. If you are going to an LT4 timing kit, you may want to consider changing the water pump gear. Many have not and gotten away with it, but for ~$50, it's cheap insurance)
Use sprocket remover to remove crankshaft sprocket. Remove the key and put it somewhere safe. (Note : only do this if you are replacing the crankshaft sprocket)
Cam Removal
Remove cam retainer with torx tool.
Unbolt AC condenser support assembly.
Unbolt the mount for the AC dryer (cylindrical can near battery). Slowly unscrew the fitting on the dryer just enough so you can swivel the condenser away. Don't get too worked up, the worst that can happen is you discharge the AC.
Swivel the condenser away enough to clear room for cam removal.
Carefully remove cam. Use a rolling motion when you are taking the cam out. Take care not to score cam bearing by keeping the cam level. (Note : You may find it to be a very tight fit. You may need to remove the hood latch to remove/install the cam)
Swivel the condenser back but do not retighten the fitting. (Note : you may want to skip to the assembly section and read the section about putting the new cam in so you don�t have to swivel the condenser again)
Driver side head removal (not necessary if you are not replacing heads)
Remove bolts from y-pipe to driver side manifold. These bolts can be difficult to get off, use WD40 or equivalent.
Remove coolant air bleed pipe bolt/screw.
Disconnect O2 sensor cable.
Remove driver side exhaust manifold assembly. Don't lose the spacers. The Helms manual recommends you put the bolts back in the same places they came from. (Refer to diagram ) (Note : If you still have difficulty with the next steps, remove the Y-pipe too)
Remove spark plug wires. If reusing, keep there order in harness for ease of installation.
Remove 4 spark plugs. If reusing, take special care not to drop them.
Remove coolant temperature sensor connector.
Remove any other accessories not covered.
Remove 17 head bolts. If reusing, keep bolts in order.
Pull head and discard gasket.
Passenger side head removal (not necessary if you are not replacing heads)
Disconnect AC compressor rear brace bolt from engine block.
Disconnect AC compressor electrical connector.
Unbolt AC and lay aside.
Remove oil dipstick.
Remove bolts from y-pipe to passenger side manifold. These bolts can be difficult to get off, use WD40 or equivalent.
Remove passenger side exhaust manifold assembly. Don't lose the spacers. The Helms manual recommends you put the bolts back in the same places they came from. (Refer to diagram )
Remove coolant air bleed pipe bolt/screw.
Remove 2 bolts from PS pump through pulley. Remove or push PS pump aside.
Remove spark plug wires. If reusing, keep there order in harness for ease of install
Remove 4 spark plugs. If reusing, take special care not to drop them.
Remove any other accessories not covered.
Remove 17 head bolts. If reusing, keep bolts in order.
Pull head and discard gasket.
Thoroughly clean surfaces of block. (Note : Put something in your lifter valley to prevent gasket material from getting into the engine)
Assembly
Cam installation
Look at dowel on the new cam - Is it the same length as the old one? If not, remove the dowel from the old cam and put it in the new one. Alternatively, the dowel on the new cam can be ground down to the correct length if it is too long.
Carefully, swivel the condenser up and out of the way.
Lubricate new cam lobes with cam lube. Be generous with the application.
Insert new cam. Take care not to score cam bearing by keeping the cam level. When installing cam, use a rolling motion and lubricate journals with engine oil as you insert the cam. Take your time on this step. (Note : You may find it to be a very tight fit. You may need to remove the hood latch to put the cam in)
Swivel condenser back and retighten fitting.
Install cam retainer and tighten bolts to 105 lb. in.
Remove three bolts from cam for later install.
Install oil pump driveshaft. Torque bolt to 13 lb. ft.
Heads installation
Make sure head and block surfaces are clean.
Install head gaskets. Make sure you get it on the right way.
Use locator pins to place heads.
Coat all head bolts with thread sealing compound.
Thread bolts (17 each) into the heads.
There is a very specific order to tightening the bolts (see picture below). Tighten them in three sequences to a final spec of 65 lb. ft. (this spec is for stock bolts, if you have new ones, use the spec given by the bolt manufacturer). Don�t fudge this, if you do, you may warp the heads as they are aluminum.