lt1-lt4 1992-96 corvette engine related

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
it helps if you buy and actually carefully read ,
related printed reference info.
I was asked to propose a lt1-4 performance build

Id start with a 396 stroker kit, with a 4340 forged crank, and forged pistons and 210cc afr LT1 heads. Id use the melrose headers and exhaust, Id select 8:1 forged dished pistons because Id want to use a pro charger super charger and the crower roller cam linked below.
bsk-6830_s.jpg

as with any corvette BUY THE CORRECT YEAR FACTORY SHOP MANUAL
176.jpg






lt14.jpg
lt15.jpg


related linked info,
read the links for related useful info

notice the short LT1 oil pump drive bolts under the intake to the block casting, these are available in metal or plastic, obviously plastic is weaker and there's NO HOLE IN THE LT1 INTAKE, for a distributor in most versions notice the full length mallory version is a direct distributor replacement REQUIRING the hole in the intake to be alined and bolted, into place
THE first intake WILL REQUIRE A BRASS FREEZE PLUG INSERT WHERE THE DISTRIBUTOR NORMALLY MOUNTS TO PREVENT LIFTER GALLERY OIL LOSS
lt1a.jpg


lt1f.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...c-gen-1-parts-compatibility.13439/#post-69777
lt1oilp.png

Pic one, is a Lt1 head, notice that the bolt angle is not flush with the intake face.
lt1q1.jpg



Now here is the same head next to a standard SBC head, notice the bolt angle as compared to the SBC gen 1 head, also notice the spacing is different between the two heads. LT1 head is on the left, SBC GEN1 head is on the right. Also notice there is no water jacket on the intake face of the LT1
lt1q2.jpg



Here is a SBC GEN1 head next to the LT1 head..This is the deck surface, notice all the water jacket openings are different..SBC Gen1 head is on the left, LT1 on the right
lt1q3.jpg



Now there two are for the vortec head, notice that the bolts are even more of an angle than the LT1, when you bolt this intake on, the bolts are facing straight down, also notice there are only 4 bolts per head on the intake, there isnt any bolt holes in the middle
lt1q4.jpg



lt1q5.jpg


http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/c4/1996/lt1lt4.html


lt1q6a.jpg



lt1q7.jpg


lt1q8.jpg


lt1q9.jpg


the later GEN2 LT!/LT4 reverse coolant flow block (ABOVE) differs from the first gen SBC
the LT1/LT4 second gen SBC engine was standard in the 1992-1996 corvette

Lt1_block.gif



(4)FIRST SELLS A LT1/4 LARGE PORT INTAKE IF YOU WANT LONGER INTAKE RUNNER INTAKE DESIGN
PDRM1966a.jpg

fuel_flowtr.jpg


look carefully at the first gen SBC block below
350blockla.jpg



increasing the lt1-lt4 350 displacement to 383-396 with a stroker crank is easily worth an additional 40-50 ft lbs and 50 hp , especially if youve added better flowing aftermarket heads and headers with a low restriction exhaust/

(6)
http://www.melrosecorvette.com/1992-1996-lt1-lt4-corvette-header-system/
lt1mel.jpg

lt1mel.jpg


http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...t-1-aiming-for-600-plus-hp-with-a-396-gen-ii/

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2000/04/rebuilding-the-chevrolet-lt1-engine/

https://corvetteparts.com/item/engine-cooling-system-rubber-hose-set-lt1-lt4-1995-1996

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...-475-horsepower-lt4-powerhouse-engine-part-1/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...-475-horsepower-lt4-powerhouse-engine-part-2/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...t1-lt4-1992-96-corvette-engine-related.14574/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...no-testing-new-mods-for-the-lt1-motor-part-2/

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/1999/09/rebuilding-the-chevrolet-lt1-engine-2/

(5)https://www.crower.com/chevy-lt1-hydraulic-roller-cam-7025.html

crower00563.png

http://hotrodenginetech.com/383-chevy-beyond-the-crate/

AIR FLOW RESEARCH SELLS SEVERAL much IMPROVED CYLINDER HEADS
the 210cc port size seems to have worked exceptionally well
if matched to a decent roller cam, and matching compression,
and yes to get the full benefit youll want a 3000-3200 rpm stall converter ,
add a trans fluid cooler and a 3.73:1 rear gear in the differential.
yes you'll need to swap too larger injectors and the size required can be accurately calculated based on the intended hp required.
Id suggest 1.6:1 roller rockers with 7/16" stud hole
https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-inj...njector-calculators/injector-size-calculator/
because Id be trying for about 600-650 hp a 62 lb injector would be my choice on a supercharged 396 LT4

(1)http://www.airflowresearch.com/210cc-sbc-lt4-race-cylinder-head/
lt1afl.png


https://www.skipwhiteperformance.co...1pc-rms-king-bearings-included-lt1-kit_87489/


http://www.airflowresearch.com/chevy/sbc-eliminator-23-lt1-cylinder-head/

https://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html

(3) http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/first-intake-lt1-build.11781/

https://www.corvsport.com/1996-c4-corvette/

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/3165200-supercharging-an-lt1-corvette.html

(2)
https://www.procharger.com/automoti...l-motors/corvette/1996-92-corvette-c4-lt1-lt4


http://www.grandsportregistry.com/lt1vslt4.htm

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0909-lt1-engine-build/
 
Last edited:








94/95:

http://shbox.com/1/95_ign_system_schematic.jpg

96/97:

http://shbox.com/1/1996_ec_03_ign_system.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/opti_cyl.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_harness.jpg

http://shbox.com/ci/opti_vent.jpg

4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

Firing order for all small-block Chevys is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

On the opti:
driver's side, top to bottom, is 5-3-7-1
passenger side, top to bottom, is 4-6-8-2

On the engine:
driver side, front to rear, is 1-3-5-7

passenger side, front to rear, is 2-4-6-8.

keep in mind any moisture in an optispark ignition causes issues like no-start or mis-firing so be sure the opti ignitions got a vacuum drain line that's clear and working, the 1996 corvette has that line from the factory, some early years don't but can be easily modified,
but it needs to be clear, not plugged with crud or leaking , or disconnected to work,

your best option when you own a corvette is to buy a damn shop manual and use common sense to track down any issues , don't just start randomly buying and installing parts, in most cases there's a logical way to isolate and be sure what parts need to ne modified, cleaned or replaced.
buy number tags for your ignition wire and use them

I've seen guys replace an entire optispark ignition , only to find they had a bad coil or battery terminal,
(have you changed the ignition wires, ignition coil, or spark plugs in all the years you owned that corvette?)

do your research, get a multi meter and a fuel pressure gauge and learn how to diagnose your vettes issues
buy a damn FACTORY shop manual for your specific year corvette,
haynes manuals are like cheap cliff notes
and use common sense to track down any issues ,

don't just start randomly buying and installing parts,
find and join a local corvette club, if your lucky you'll find a sympathetic ,
&
knowledgeable old geezer that can help you diagnose issues :like:
 
Last edited:




btw it should have been obvious, once the bolts resisted the initial use of the impact wrench,
that stuck bolts must be heated and penetrating lube used before the impact wrench is used to avoid striping threads
and a tip..never use a torque wrench to break loose bolts, own and use a 24"-25" breaker bar
a semi decent value
before removing main caps stamp /number them and place an indication which side faces the front

placing all the stamped numbers offset to one end of those main caps helps and yes even mark the rear main in a similar matter even if its obvious where it goes to help indicate which side on the other main caps face forward


and yes remove the casting flash and use gyptal to paint the interior surfaces to reduce chances of crud getting caught in the oil flow and replace the freeze plugs with brass once and use sealant
read related threads
 
Last edited:
Back
Top