Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Merry Christmas Grumpy and to Your Family.
m1a1 related
- Thread starter grumpyvette
- Start date
thank you!
I hope all the members of the forum do well and prosper and remain healthy,
in the following years
like with most tools its the skill and experience and amount of hands on practice that,
you have using that tool,
that has a huge effect on what you can accomplish with that tool.
I hope all the members of the forum do well and prosper and remain healthy,
in the following years
like with most tools its the skill and experience and amount of hands on practice that,
you have using that tool,
that has a huge effect on what you can accomplish with that tool.
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but its all too obvious this guy has no clue how to inspect the internal stock clearances,
to the actions bedding and action components to that stock,
he also seems to be less than skilled with iron sights
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a few tips I found posted to help improve M1A1 accuracy
www.freedomforgearmory.com
#1 your flash hider is already reamed.
#2 you have a NM front site.
#3 Unitized gas cylinder???
#3a Clearance the front furrel (optional) if there is contact.
#3b Shim G/C. (optional)
#3c Float the handguard. (unitized G/C needed)
#4 trigger job, your rifle is a loaded and should have a good trigger from the factory.
#5 NM rear site, your rifle is a loaded and should have a modified std rear site with a ball and detent spring giving you 1/2 min windage adj. a NM hooded(looks like a can) rear aperture will need to be fitted to give you 1/2 min elevation adj. So in a nutshell your rear site is 1/2 way finished.
#6 A good fitting stock will serve your needs for a while when the trigger group lockup(draw pressures) starts getting soft, it should be bedded.
Thats about the cheapest way to go, and most of the work you can handle.
BTW, if your looking for a full size battle rifle, with the reach and punch to decisively win battle's out to well over 600 yards,
with a long and well documented history of winning many conflicts, and if you don't like the M14/M1a1 rifle design, most of the free world/ NATO selected varia's versions of the FAL, as their preferred, 308 combat rifle,
think CONGO,FALKLANDS , most cold war NATO armies ETC.
dsarms.com
heres one I have my eyes on,
Amazon.com: M14 GAS SYSTEM TWEAKS AND TIPS: An accurizing experience: 9798753689849: SmokyBaer: Books
Amazon.com: M14 GAS SYSTEM TWEAKS AND TIPS: An accurizing experience: 9798753689849: SmokyBaer: Books
www.amazon.com
Turning the M1A into a match rifle. Part One - Freedom Forge Armory LLC
What does it take to turn a rack grade M1A into a match rifle. Our Master Gunsmith explores this process using information from an old Army Marksmanship Unit manual on the M14.
www.freedomforgearmory.com
The M14 owner's guide and match conditioning instructions: Duff, Scott A: 9781888722079: Amazon.com: Books
The M14 owner's guide and match conditioning instructions [Duff, Scott A] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. The M14 owner's guide and match conditioning instructions
www.amazon.com
#1 your flash hider is already reamed.
#2 you have a NM front site.
#3 Unitized gas cylinder???
#3a Clearance the front furrel (optional) if there is contact.
#3b Shim G/C. (optional)
#3c Float the handguard. (unitized G/C needed)
#4 trigger job, your rifle is a loaded and should have a good trigger from the factory.
#5 NM rear site, your rifle is a loaded and should have a modified std rear site with a ball and detent spring giving you 1/2 min windage adj. a NM hooded(looks like a can) rear aperture will need to be fitted to give you 1/2 min elevation adj. So in a nutshell your rear site is 1/2 way finished.
#6 A good fitting stock will serve your needs for a while when the trigger group lockup(draw pressures) starts getting soft, it should be bedded.
Thats about the cheapest way to go, and most of the work you can handle.
BTW, if your looking for a full size battle rifle, with the reach and punch to decisively win battle's out to well over 600 yards,
with a long and well documented history of winning many conflicts, and if you don't like the M14/M1a1 rifle design, most of the free world/ NATO selected varia's versions of the FAL, as their preferred, 308 combat rifle,
think CONGO,FALKLANDS , most cold war NATO armies ETC.
DSArms SA58 FAL 21" Belgium Style FALO Heavy Barrel 7.62x51mm Rifle - 50.41 Configuration - DS Arms
DSArms SA58 FAL 21" Belgium Style FALO Heavy Barrel 7.62x51mm Rifle - 50.41 Configuration - DS Armsdsarms.com
heres one I have my eyes on,
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fiberglass stocks are still available, 168 grain bullets tend to be the most consistently accurate, stainless steel barrels are available
M1A™ Standard Issue .308 Rifle - Black - Springfield Armory
www.springfield-armory.com
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Barrel, 22", M14/M1A, 6.5 Creedmoor, Medium Contour, 1x8, Stainless, Match Quality, FA by Criterion
Your Source for Service Rifles: M1 Garand, M1 Carbine, M14 / M1A & AR Types
www.fulton-armory.com
M14 / M1A HEAVY | .308Win | MuD:.478" | L:22.00" | Cr-Moly Steel
www.lothar-walther.com
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Wheeler Universal Barrel Clamp
The Wheeler Engineering Universal Barrel Clamp is precision extruded from aircraft grade aluminum and bonded with non-marring urethane. The...
www.midwayusa.com
something different, the short barrel version of the M1a
personally I personally despise this short barrel version, as muzzle flash and with some ammo recoil is marginally excessive
(at least compared to the standard M1a1)
In my opinion, if you limit your choice of a combat rifle to a 16"-18" barrel your much better off using a 7.62/39 cartridge
I've found the accuracy of very rapid double taps made on target, at extended ranges are significantly reduced,
with a short barrel 308 compared to a side by side test with a standard M1a1
, to get the full ballistic benefit's of the 308 win you need a 22"-24" barrel
velocity of the short barrel 308 win is not much better than the 7.62/39 and,
the 308 wins 147-150 grain projectile has significantly reduced expansion on impact
the M1a1 308 win, can be very effective out to 600-750 yards with,
the proper 168 grain ammo, something the 7.62/39 cartridge
and most AK type carbines can't do!
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problem found to be the imported ZSR LOT 15 7.62/51 (308)ammo not the rifle
in the following (4) months, since the original posted video,
at least a dozen other rifles exploded using this ammo
when reloading remember
308 Winchester operates at higher pressure than 7.62x51mm.
SAAMI specifies a maximum average pressure for . 308 Winchester of 62,000 PSI,
but the oft-cited pressure of 7.62. 51mm is 50,000 PSI--almost 25% less.
military ammo is generally loaded to function flawlessly at a bit lower pressure,
to enhance rifle durability and extend barrel life spans.
if you load for a semi auto military style clone,
keep ammo pressures a bit off max to help rifle longevity a great deal
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lots of guys use electronic powder scales
Ive always prefered the older ohaus balance beam DIAL-O-GRAIN scale
NOT DIAL-O- GRAM
Ive always prefered the older ohaus balance beam DIAL-O-GRAIN scale
NOT DIAL-O- GRAMPowder Scales
if you can find a Ohaus dial-o-grain :D scale:like: BUY IT IMMEDIATELY AS ITS A GREAT ASSET they can be found used at under $80 and its the most accurate and consistent powder scale, I found over 5 decades NOT A DIAL-o-GRAM:mad::facepalm: the rcbs 505 scale is a decent second choice
garage.grumpysperformance.com