"MASS AIR FLOW"VS "SPEED DENSITY "

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
Grumpy, Your site is impressive and I know you have spent a lot of time getting it to its present level.. I have a question that I have been unable to find an answer to. Thanks for ANY info that I can use. I have a 1947 Ford with 1988 Tune port TPI . This tune port is sitting on a 1997 chev. 350 H.O. Vortec engine, 700 R-4,Camaro front end. This car was produced in 1988 by GM and it had Mass Air Flow, fuel delivery. The car has been changed to Speed Density. I recently found the info. that GM put a" mass air flow" on all 5.7 fuel injected engines in 1988. Car runs very good but I do not know what was supposed to be done at the build time to (1) change long block to 1997 chev. vortec 350 H.O. and (2) set it up with Speed Density , not MAF. Can you or anyone else point me to the needed info. Just would like to be sure what was done in build is the recommended way that works best. Thanks so much.
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"MASS AIR FLOW" and "SPEED DENSITY " are simply different routes to achieving the same thing, and that's control of the fuel air ratio.
both methods have flaws and advantages.
the engine itself is looking for a fuel/air ratio matching the load and rpm range to maximize its power curve.
you'll generally want the engine to see about a 14.7:1 f/a ratio at idle to keep the plugs clean and emissions low, you'll want a slow consistent and predictable enrichment as the rpms and loads on the engine increase.
the engine won,t really know or care what systems used to control the fuel/air ratio as long as it functions correctly but generally, the better versions of MASS AIR FLOW systems are a bit more forgiving and accurate if properly tuned in my opinion.
Re: C4 and camaro sensor and relay/switch locations and inf
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http://www.professionalequipment.com/ex ... ermometer/
Wide temperature range from -58 to 1832°F (-50 to 1000°C)
any time that your dealing with a potential temperature issue or a trouble issue where , knowing the exact temperature vs what a gauge might say, it helps to have a handy and accurate infrared temp gun handy to locate and confirm heat, levels.
I FOUND THIS POSTED ON A DIFFERENT SITE

The "paperclip method" - it does more than you think, even on '96 cars!
I am posting this to clear some things up about the "paperclip" trick as it applies to later model C4's ('94-'96), and I just want to make sure nobody is in the dark about all the various features of their car's built-in diagnostic mode. I will show that it does a lot more than display codes (it's got a menu!), and I will show you what the "SYS" message means, and I also hope to clear up some major misinformation.
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Specifically, there have been numerous rumors that the 1996 cars have no diagnostic mode. You can enter the '96 diagnostic mode, but the rumors say it's only a holdover from previous years and that everything shown on the screen is garbage. This is false. The 1996 cars DO have an elaborate and functional diagnostic mode, with only one major change.

Our cars have numerous computers (it calls them "modules") networked together, one of which is the PCM, which controls the engine. The root of the rumors lies in the fact that in '96, new laws mandated the PCM's protocol to change to OBD-II, which used a standardized four-digit numbering scheme for "check engine" codes, which is too big to fit on the LCD. Rather than find some other way to display that many digits, GM decided to say screw it and deleted the functions that read/clear PCM codes from the diagnostic mode. The PCM simply no longer shows up at all among the modules listed.

They forgot to mention this little tidbit in the service manual, which confused a lot of people into thinking that the whole CCM chapter does not apply to '96 cars, but other than that one detail, it does. GM did not change any of the functions involving other modules (CCM, EBTCM, etc), nor did those functions get corrupted by the switch to OBD-II; they all still show up and function correctly. Thus the majority of the diagnostic mode's power is still there in '96. I know because I checked.

-----Using diagnostic mode-----

To enter the diagnostic mode, you simply ground the diagnostic pin on your car's diagnostic connector (located near the driver's knees). Various DLC connectors were used throughout the C4's life, all with different pinouts; on '94-'96 cars, you connect the fourth pin from the left in each of the two rows of pins to one another, with a paperclip or some other conductor.

When you turn the ignition to "run," you will now be in diagnostic mode, which uses the LCD screen and the DIC (driver information center) buttons for input and output. You may start and drive the car while in diagnostic mode; in fact, the car has to be running for some of the functions to be meaningful. The only disadvantage is you will not be able to see your normal gauges while in this mode since the LCD screen will be in use.

When you start diagnostic mode, the LCD will show you any codes stored in the car's various computers. In '96, Module 1 is the CCM (main/dash computer), 4 is the PCM (engine computer, doesn't show up in '96), 7 is the RTD (computer-controlled shock absorbers, if you've got them), 9 is the EBTCM (antilock brake and traction computer), and A is the DERM (air bag computer). These are cycled through one at a time, with dashes indicating the end of codes for that module. A "C" prefix means the code is currently active, meaning that the relevant parameters are out of range right now; an "H" means the code has been stored in history but is not currently active.

Unlike the car's other electronic systems, such as PCM, ABS, air bags, etc., there is no specific "CCM" lamp to indicate a malfunction when one is present. Instead, the CCM flashes the word "SYS" three times every once in a while on the LCD whenever there are active CCM codes present. If the code thrown is one that involves only the security system, the "SECURITY" lamp will illuminate instead, or they will both flash together if it involves the Fuel Enable Data Stream.

Upon entering diagnostic mode, as mentioned, you will first see a listing of diagnostic codes for each module. Afterwards, you will enter the menu (or you can press any information center buttons to skip to the menu). Did you know there was a menu? I didn't, until I read the FSM.

You'll know you're in the menu when you see the number "1.0". The first digit, before the decimal point, refers to which module you are talking to at the moment, as numbered above. The second digit indicates the menu item. Item .0 means that computer is awaiting instructions. Item .1 displays any codes for that module and .7 clears them. This applies to all of the car's computers/modules. Note that any non-CCM codes will always show up with the "H" as in history, since the CCM does not know whether or not they are currently active.

The CCM has additional options on top of these; .2 and .3 let you cycle through the CCM's stored data and inputs, respectively, and option .4 lets you toggle each of its outputs manually (this part is fun).

To navigate the menu items, use the "gauges" and "trip odo" button. To navigate to the next or previous module, hold down the "fuel" or "trip" button for a second. To select a menu item, press "ENG MET."

One thing that I recommend doing at this point, is see if you have any EBTCM codes stored (module 9 in '96), and then delete them. You will hear the brake pressure modulator valves near the EBTCM click as it resets, and you might suddenly feel that your brakes feel and work much better than before. This was the case for me; I had a lateral accelerometer code, as well as a code from back when my Opti died making the tachometer go crazy. Neither code has come back since I cleared them, meaning that the presence of codes alone was enough to severely effect how my brake functions.

Now for the fun part: The CCM data, input, and outputs. These are options .2, .3, and .4 in the CCM module menu, respectively. After selecting any of these, press "eng met" to go to the next value and "fuel info" to go to the previous. The selections are:


Display CCM Data (Mode 1.2):
01 - Fuel Level (Gallons, tenths)
02 - Dimming Potentiometer
03 - Ambient Light Sensor
04 - Rear Defogger Timer
05 - Vehicle Speed
06 - Pass-Key
07 - Ignition Voltage
08 - Switched Voltage
09 - Cluster dimming
10 - LCD backlight dimming
11 - Radio & Climate dimming
12 - LED dimming
13 & 14 - Vehicle configuration
15 - Oil monitor count
16 - CCM version

Display CCM input status (Mode 1.3):

1 - PassKey fuel
2 - English/metric status
3 - Door key switch
4 - Right Door ajar
5 - Left door ajar
6 - key in ignition but in "off" or "acc" position
7 - hatch ajar
8 - Power door unlock
9 - Power door lock
10 - Parking lights
11 - Rear defogger input (car must be running)
12 - Seat belt switch
13 - High beam switch
14 - Low oil level switch

These values are either "1" or "0," and when toggled, the new value will be appended on to the old value (01 means it was 0 but is now 1).

Cycle CCM Outputs (Mode 1.4):

Selecting these options will manually activate the lights and sounds the CCM produces.

1 - Change oil light
2 - Check gauges indicator
3 - Fasten seatbelt indicator
4 - Security lamp
5 - High beam indicator
6 & 7 - chimes
8 - LCD blanking
9 - Defogger relay
10 - Courtesy lamp
11 - Low oil lamp
12 - Theft relay
13 - DAB relay
14 - door ajar light
15 - Horns (This will actually beep the horns, watch out!)

So there you have it; you can now dazzle and impress your friends with your car's diagnostic features, as well as test any of the circuits and systems in the interior. Please correct any factual errors I have made in this post, and if you know of any information that would be useful to add to this thread, so as to make it a centralized source for information about the late model CCM, let me know.



Here's the fan diagram which also shows the 3 fuses involved in the fan circuit.

There are 3 relays and two modes of operation when the fans run.

Both fans run at slow speed when the PCM grounds pin A11 Dark Green wire which energizes Relay #1.

Both fans run at high speed when the PCM grounds pin A11 Dark Green wire and pin A10 Dark Blue wire. (All 3 relays are energized).

I've never tried this but If you ground Pin 5 to Pin 6 on the DLC (Data Link Connector) above the drivers right knee and then turn the ignition ON, the 3 Fan relays should energize and both fans should operate at high speed.

[01|02|03|04|05|06|07|08]
[09|10|11|12|13|14|15|16]
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BTW FAULTY GROUNDS, IN MANY CARS AND ESPECIALLY NEWER CORVETTES CAUSE MANY ELECTRICAL ISSUES SO IF YOU HAVE INTERMITTENT ELECTRICAL ISSUES CHECK THEM CAREFULLY
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http://www.jegs.com/p/Equus/Equus-8000-Series-Gauges/1532060/10002/-1

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it might help to understand why the manufacturers selected BATCH FIRE VS individually timed by cylinder injection controls to begin with, that that was basically because back in the early 1980s computer processing speeds were a BAD JOKE compared to the potential computer processing speeds currently available.the early corvettes like my 1985 came with a 160 baud processor speed, this was so slow that it took almost a full second to respond to sensor data,and make the next change required, making use of things like dry nitrous injection that in theory would rely on the engine sensing the overly lean fuel/air ratio a massive increase in oxygen to fuel ratio a sure way to burn pistons, simply because the early cpu processor speed was hopelessly slow. batch fire allowed the computer to control 4 injectors with a single control pulse ,effectively reducing the required processor speed by 75%
some of the early tpi injection intakes like the 1985 came with a 9th cold start injector whos only real function is to act as a choke and richen the fuel air ratio during cold engine starts
the function of the cold start injector on the 1985 tpi is to provide extra fuel, acting like a carb choke richening the fuel air ratio, if you just plug off the fuel rail and intake and remove the 9th injector it will still run OK just like a carburetor, without a choke will once its up to operating temperature, but it will be a P.I.T.A. to start on cool mornings and ALWAYS take a bit longer to start up, as would a carb engine without a choke because EFI doesn,t have the accelerator pump function where you can remove or bye-pass the symptoms by flooring the carb several times , to get the accelerator pump shot to richen the fuel air ratio.
but what you can do is upgrade the absurdly slow 160 baud processor this meant the computer control responding to sensor input,could ad or remove fuel only a couple times a second the CPU has to a more current version which controls ALL the injectors and RICHENS all the pulse durations to all the injectors under cold start conditions, thus eliminating the need for the 9th injector or installing its feed or connectors, but obviously the rear of the drivers side fuel rail needs to be plugged if the 9th injector feed is removes as will the injector mount hole in the intake manifold if its been removed
data is sent at 8192 baud by 1989, or 51 TIMES FASTER, and by todays standards the 1989 processor speeds a joke itself.as current speeds are hundreds of times faster, allowing individual cylinders to be tuned independently hundreds of times a second
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2825

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-1985-89-m-a-f-sensor.1475/#post-43635

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-your-tpi-maf-and-cpu-links.2825/#post-56790

85-89 MAF TPI Systems

Below is a list of all the needed sensors to install a MAF TPI setup, and each of their functions.

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: This sensor is responsible for measuring air volume and density. It is located in the air duct, before the throttle body. All of the air that the engine consumes must first pass through the MAF sensor. At the center of the MAF, is a very thin wire whose resistance increases as it goes up in temperature. A constant voltage is applied to this wire. Air being drawn through the MAF has the effect of cooling this wire, which lowers its resistance, and increases current. As you might suspect, the more air is drawn through the MAF sensor, the greater the current flow. It is important to note that hot dry air is less dense and has less mass than cool moist air. As a result, hot dry air will cool the wire less than cool moist air.

A circuit mounted on the MAF sensor serves to convert the current flow into a variable frequency square wave on 1985 models, which is sent to the ecm. MAF units from 86-89 models output a simple analog signal instead of using frequency modulation like the 1985 units. The ecm will calculate the amount of fuel needed depending on the signal from the MAF sensor. It is very important that there are no air leaks (from a ripped air duct for example) between the MAF and the throttle body.
Oxygen Sensor: Responsible for determining the amount of oxygen in the exhaust manifold. Depending on how much oxygen is in the exhaust, the ecm can determine whether or not the air/fuel mixture is rich or lean. The signal sent to the ecm by the ecm varies between 0.0 and 1.0 volts. An ideal mixture (also known as a Stoichiometric mixture) of 14.7:1 is represented by .450 volts. If the oxygen sensor voltage is below .450, then the air/fuel mixture is lean. Anything over .450 means the mixture is rich. Since the sensor is essentially just a switching device, it will be fluctuating alot between lean and rich. This is normal, and an indication that the sensor is in working properly.

Keep in mind however that oxygen sensors (except wideband oxygen sensors), are not very accurate below or above .450 volts. Exhaust gas temperature will affect the oxygen sensor reading as well. The sensor will not read properly until exhaust gas temperature reaches approximately 600 degrees Farenheit. If you have headers installed, it is a good idea to use a heated oxygen sensor (3 wire) instead of the usual single wire sensor. Headers usually place the oxygen sensor further down the exhaust stream, where exhaust temperatures are cooler. A heated oxygen sensor will heat itself, allowing a more reliable sensor reading than a single wire sensor. If you have factory exhaust manifolds, then the single wire sensor is adequate.

Oxygen sensors are a regular maintenance item, and should be replaced every 30,000 miles. When an oxygen sensor goes bad, it tends to read lean, and will not fluctuate very much. The ecm will attempt to correct this false lean condition by richening the mixture. This will cause poor driveability, and high gas consumption.
Knock Sensor: Also known as detonation sensor, it is responsible for sensing spark knock. Basically, thats when the fuel mixture ignites before the spark plug fires. The piston is moving upwards as this premature combustion takes place. Since fuel is used to cool down the combustion chamber, a lean condition causes the temperature to rise, and ignites the fuel mixture prematurely. This is very abusive on the engine internals, and reduces the life of any engine. The more powerful the engine, the greater the potential for damage. Detonation can be cause by a variety of things. One of the more common causes on TPI retrofits where prom changes have been made to the fuel or spark tables is a lean condition. It isn't always loud enough to be heard, so just because you don't hear any pinging, doesn't mean its not happening.

Detonation will cause a vibration to travel through the engine block. The sensor listens for this vibration at a certain frequency, and sends a signal to the ecm when the frequency is heard. This frequency is different depending on engine size. To prevent possible engine damage, the spark timing needs to be retarded when detonation is present. The sensor itself does not pull the timing back however. The ecm is in charge of retarding the timing, and will do so according to a series of settings inside the prom. The knock sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine block on factory applications. It can however be relocated to the driver side of the block if needed (header clearance for example). They are different depending not only on the size of the engine, but also the ecm being used. It is important that the correct sensor is used to avoid problems. Although it is possible to run the car without one, I strongly suggest against this. I have had customers come to me looking for a $45 knock sensor after spending several hundred dollars and an extra month of work rebuilding a blown engine due to detonation.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): Responsible for reporting to the ecm the position of the throttle blades. The ecm will receive a signal which can vary from 0.0 to 5.0 volts. At idle, the TPS should be read .54 volts (factory specification) unless it has been set to a different value inside the prom. If it does not read .54 volts and the idle TPS voltage setting has not been modified in the prom, then it should be adjusted. Under full throttle, it should output close to 5.0 volts. Throughout its range of motion, the voltage should climb steadily, without any jumps or falls. If it is not steady or has some fluctuations as it is moved through its range of motion, it should be replaced. This sensor is located on the passenger side of the throttle body.

Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS): This is basically a thermistor (means that it changes resistance with temperature) that supplies the ecm with the temperature of the engine coolant. This temperature reading is used for several important functions. The most notable is that the ecm adds extra fuel to an engine when its cold, and as the engine warms up, the extra fuel is reduced. This sensor mounts at the front of the intake manifold. The chart below shows the approximate resistance for this sensor in relation to temperature.

the later 1992-96 corvette lt1 used a MAT SENSOR
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https://www.autozone.com/videos/v/delphi-mafsensors-101/224995962/
Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT): This sensor is also a thermistor (means that it changes resistance with temperature) that supplies the ecm with a temperature reading of the air being drawn into the engine. It is the same as the coolant temperature sensor on 86-92 models. The 1985 intake air temperature sensor used a different connector and cannot be used as a coolant temperature sensor because it had an exposed bulb. This sensor mounts underneath the plenum. The chart above shows the approximate resistance for this sensor in relation to temperature.

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Although this is technically not a sensor at all, people often treat it as one. It is responsible for regulating the amount of airflow being admitted into the engine to adjust engine speed, particularly at idle and deceleration. The ecm controls the IAC at its discretion. The IAC works by moving a cone shaped pintle, which can extend and retract as needed to admit or block off incoming air. The valve moves the pintle in "steps". These steps are numbered and range from 0 to 160. A properly adjust throttle body should be idling when warm between 15-25 steps.

The IAC is used under a variety of conditions, not only at idle speed. The valve mounts on the bottom coolant plate of the throttle body.

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS): This is responsible for providing the ECM with the vehicle speed. It can be located either at the tailshaft of the transmission, or behind the speedometer on cars with a cable driven speedometer. It sends a 2k ppm (pulse per mile) square wave signal, and is needed for a variety of functions. It is absolutely critical for the ecm's learn mode, timing retard, emissions, torque converter lockup (automatic lockup transmissions only), idle speed control, and to avoid stalling on deceleration. It is possible to run without one. However, your car will NOT be street legal if you are required to retain emissions equipment, the ecm will not control the torque converter lockup, the ecm will not retard timing if you run into detonation, and it is possible to run into stalling /idle speed issues. In addition, the ecm will not adjust the fuel table properly as you drive (known as its "learning ability"). If the ecm does not know the vehicle speed it is assumed to be 0 mph.

If you still insist on not running a vss, I very highly suggest that the minimum vehicle speed for timing retard be brought down to 0 mph in the prom. The factory setting is 2 or 3 mph. If you don't bring this value down, and you do not run a vss, the ecm will NOT retard your timing under detonation.


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the engine will work the best whith a low restriction exhaust and tuned headers that match the power band, displacement and compresion that maximizes cylinder fill efficiency and thats generally achieved with a fairly tight LSA on the highest compression ratio , the fuel your using will allow and headers designed to maximize cylinder scavenging
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http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tte-shows-a-trouble-code-33.15594/#post-93198


QUOTE
Speed Density systems accept input from sensors that measure engine speed (in rpm) and load (manifold vacuum in kPa), then the computer calculates airflow requirements by referring to a much larger (in comparison to an N Alpha system) preprogrammed lookup table, a map of thousands of values that equates to the engines volumetric efficiency (VE) under varying conditions of throttle position and engine speed. Engine rpm is provided via a tach signal, while vacuum is transmitted via an intake manifold-mounted Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor. Since air density changes with air temperature, an intake manifold-mounted sensor is also used.

Production-based Speed Density computers also utilize an oxygen (O2) sensor mounted in the exhaust tract. The computer looks at the air/fuel ratio from the O2 sensor and corrects the fuel delivery for any errors. This helps compensate for wear and tear and production variables. Other sensors on a typical Speed Density system usually include an idle-air control motor to help regulate idle speed, a throttle-position sensor that transmits the percentage of throttle opening, a coolant-temperature sensor, and a knock sensor as a final fail-safe that hears detonation so the computer can retard timing as needed.

GMs Tuned Port Injection (TPI) set-ups used Speed Density metering from 90-’92, as did 91-’93 LT1 engines. All 86-’87 and 88 non-California Ford 5.0L-HO engines used Speed Density metering. Most Mopar fuel- injection systems have used Speed Density too.

Because a Speed Density system still has no sensors that directly measure engine airflow, all the fuel mapping points must be preprogrammed, so any significant change to the engine that alters its VE requires reprogramming the computer.

By contrast, Mass Air Flow (MAF) systems use a sensor mounted in front of the throttle body that directly measures the amount of air inducted into the engine. The most common type of mass-flow sensor is the hot wire design: Air flows past a heated wire thats part of a circuit that measures electrical current. Current flowing through the wire heats it to a temperature that is always held above the inlet air temperature by a fixed amount. Air flowing across the wire draws away some of the heat, so an increase in current flow is required to maintain its fixed temperature. The amount of current needed to heat the wire is proportional to the mass of air flowing across the wire. The mass-air meter also includes a temperature sensor that provides a correction for intake air temperature so the output signal is not affected by it.

The MAF sensors circuitry converts the current reading into a voltage signal for the computer, which in turn equates the voltage value to mass flow. Typical MAF systems also use additional sensors similar to those found in Speed Density systems. Once the electronic control module (ECM) knows the amount of air entering the engine, it looks at these other sensors to determine the engine’s current state of operation (idle, acceleration, cruise, deceleration, operating temperature, and so on), then refers to an electronic map to find the appropriate air/fuel ratio and select the fuel-injector pulse width required to match the input signals.

GM used MAF sensors on the turbo Buick V-6 Grand National, 85-’89 TPI, 94-’98 LT1, 96 LT4, and all LS1 engines. Ford has used MAF metering on 88 California 5.0L engines and all 89-and-later V-8 engines.

MAF systems are much more flexible in their ability to compensate for engine changes since they actually measure airflow instead of computing it based on preprogrammed assumptions. They are self-compensating for most reasonable upgrades, as well as extremely accurate under low-speed, part-throttle operation. On the other hand, the MAF meter, mounted as it is ahead of the throttle-body, can become an airflow restriction on high-horsepower engines. On nonstock engine retrofits or EFI conversions on engines never produced with fuel injection, it may be hard to package an MAF meter within the confines of the engine bay and available intake manifolding.

Which Is Best?
In a perfect world, virtually all street-performance engines would use Mass Air, due to its superior accuracy and greater tolerance for engine changes. In the past there was a problem on high-horsepower engines because larger-capacity MAF sensors were scarce and prohibitively expensive. Nowadays, oversize MAF sensors are available from Pro-M, Granatelli Racing, and other sources that are compatible with Ford engines and computers. Custom MAF calibration keyed to the specific vehicle, engine, and injector size is also available. With a correctly calibrated oversize meter, reflashing the computer usually isn't required


you might find READING THROUGH these links useful
BUT THE SITE HAS HUNDREDS OF THREADS ON RELATED INFO< SO DO A FEW DOZEN SEARCHES AND READ LINKS


http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/electronic-fuel-injection/

http://support.moates.net/theory-speed-density/

http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/ez-...control-system-multi-port-retro-fit-typehtml/

https://www.xcceleration.com/sd-vs-maf.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-up-your-fuel-system.211/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/how-big-a-fuel-pump-do-you-need.1939/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ive-are-the-stock-tpi-engine-components.1509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/throttle-body-size-52mm-vs-58mm.641/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-get-there-with-tpi.10494/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sure-hurting-your-combo.495/page-2#post-56504

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-to-match-the-cam-specs.11764/#post-55571

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...engine-volumetric-efficiency.6254/#post-55061

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...trans-choice-made-correctly.11697/#post-54816

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...y-in-building-a-good-engine.11682/#post-54682

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lsa-effects-your-compression-torque-dcr.1070/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/semi-fool-proof-cam-sellection.82/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sellecting-cylinder-heads.796/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...otal-panic-over-an-easy-fix.12177/#post-58940

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/dynamic-vs-static-compression.727/
 
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