My 1st. Street 383 Build

bytor

Well-Known Member
Well, I got started on my build a few weeks ago and thought it was time to get something up on the forum.

Here’s the core parts run down.


I have been spending most of the time cleaning parts and checking clearances. So far no major surprises. My timing chain was just barely rubbing the block just above the center oil galley plug. Pulled out the Dremel and did some clean up, all good now. I did find four spots on the block the will require some work where the rod bolts hit but it doesn’t look like I’ll have to remove too much material. (Highlighted with a silver magic marker)


I took an initial measurement of the deck height. The block had been decked before I bought it. I checked the #1 and #8 cylinders and both came in at .005 above the deck. So, it looks like a .050 head gasket will be in order. I plan to measure this again.


I nabbed a 2 liter bottle holder from a convenience store nearby and found it makes perfect assembled piston storage.


Here’s the cam.


I will say that this forum and the information available to hobbyists on it is unbelievable. After spending time reading and reading, I am confident of a successful build. What I find interesting about researching info on this forum is that let’s say you looking up how to degree a cam, the next thing you know you reading about piston velocity. Great stuff! I’m certain if I have not discovered this forum, I would have been one of those engine assembly guys and slapped it together out of the box. I’ll post more as I make progress.
 

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I like your bottle holder piston organizer, nice idea!

I noticed that you are using the Melling 10552 pump, same one that I used. Be sure and check the oil pump driveshaft end play. I started with .156" of end play. I had to have a shaft cut down to the proper length, I could NOT find one that was the right length off the shelf.

It starts here in my thread on goes for few pages.
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814&hilit=oil+pump+drive+shaft&start=360

BTW, nice pictures, keep them coming!
 
Continue to check rotating assembly clearance with the block and cam. Started with a piston and rod installed in the number one cylinder only. Checked the rod to cam clearance and it checked good at .061”. I used a mirror, bright light and a piece of solder. The solder worked well because it was just stiff enough to control and soft enough not to damage anything. I noticed the rod came very close to the number 2 lower cylinder edge. I have less than .05” clearance in one small area where the upper rod edge comes close to the unmachined block area just under the cylinder. I took a small thin piece of playdogh and stuck it to the block the rotated the crank to identify the tight area and marked it with a yellow paint pen. So I need to do some additional grinding on the block area in yellow and not the rod correct? How close is the water jacket to that area of the block?
 

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you should have not problem grinding .080 or so clearance on the lower bore wall edge with zero chance of getting into the water jacket passages or water jacket at the area of the yellow paint indicated in that picture, most people forget to check that area so the thought that your doing the checking makes me think your doing a better than average job here, congrats!
obviously youll want to check all 8 cylinders and remove the cam and clean carefully before re-installing the cam.



http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1206phr-383ci-small-block-chevy/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/76178-chevrolet-ht-383-engine/

http://www.enginelabs.com/news/dyno-video-qmp-builds-500-horse-383-stroker/

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/building-the-little-383-small-block-that-could/

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-c...-block-in-six-easy-steps-hot-rod-magazine.pdf
 
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bytor said:
Continue to check rotating assembly clearance with the block and cam. Started with a piston and rod installed in the number one cylinder only.
Sounds like you plan on checking all the cylinders, and not just #1.

Checked the rod to cam clearance and it checked good at .061”. I used a mirror, bright light and a piece of solder. The solder worked well because it was just stiff enough to control and soft enough not to damage anything.
Solder is a good idea. Can you get several sizes in that range locally or do you have to order it online???


I noticed the rod came very close to the number 2 lower cylinder edge. I have less than .05” clearance in one small area where the upper rod edge comes close to the unmachined block area just under the cylinder. I took a small thin piece of playdogh
Pretty suspicious you having playdough around....are you still making your own toys???


and stuck it to the block the rotated the crank to identify the tight area and marked it with a yellow paint pen. So I need to do some additional grinding on the block area in yellow and not the rod correct? How close is the water jacket to that area of the block?

Looking good so far. Don't be shy about posting lots of pictures!
 
Indycars said:
Sounds like you plan on checking all the cylinders, and not just #1.

I did check all my ‘odd’ cylinders one at a time and I’m good on cam clearance. All of the odds will need clearance work done like #1. I found I could remove the rod cap and get a better view of the tight spots to mark the block with a silver marker for clearance work later. I had time to check the #2 cylinder and it had a bit over .062 so I may be in better shape on the even side but I’ll check them all.





Solder is a good idea. Can you get several sizes in that range locally or do you have to order it online???

I had some solid core plumbers solder on hand. Picked it up at a hardware store some time ago. It works well because it's soft and when when something touches it, it leaves a witness mark so you know you have had contact.


Pretty suspicious you having playdough around....are you still making your own toys???

Yes, the Playdough work well for clearance checking in a pinch. I have used it to check the infamous air cleaner to hood clearance on a C3 Vett. Modeling clay works better like Grumpy mentions because it's stiffer and easier to measure.
 

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LOVE the PHOTOS showing clearance issues
removing the rod caps during clearance checks while building your 383 ,does seem to allow you to see the clearance issues a bit easier

rodcaptocamclearance.JPG

rodcaptoblockclearance.JPG


 
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Thinking ahead on block prep steps. What’s the right way to freshen up the timing cover, water pump and oil pan gasket surfaces on the block? Mine are in good shape with no chips or scratches but just not fresh looking like the machined deck area.



Is something like the Scotch Bright woven abrasive or Bristle surface conditioning disk safe to use?
 

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bytor said:
Thinking ahead on block prep steps. What’s the right way to freshen up the timing cover, water pump and oil pan gasket surfaces on the block? Mine are in good shape with no chips or scratches but just not fresh looking like the machined deck area.

Is something like the Scotch Bright woven abrasive or Bristle surface conditioning disk safe to use?

The surface looks fine in the pic, but I know how you feel. If it's nice and shiny, then you've done a little bit better job.

I might use a flap wheel, like shown below and keep it flat. Try it on a sample piece of steel and get the feel for the abrasive first. Don't apply any pressure the weight of the grinder will be plenty to freshen up the surface. Depending on the abrasive, you might use a drill. This will keep things from happening too fast like with a die grinder.

Then there is always a scotch brite pad, WD40 and your hand. :cool:


 

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grumpyvette said:
if you have not yet started assembly and can pressure clean all the machined surfaces and paint all the cast surfaces abrasive pads can be used to remove minor surface crud but remember these ALL leave abrasive dust that MUST be cleaned and removed well before assembly begins

Yep, I'm still in pre-assembly test fit stage. After the last round of block clearance work. I washed the block, the second time. I'm comfortable with my rotating assembly, block and cam clearances now. Degreed the cam using both the centerline and .050 lift methods. Results look inline.







My Cam card..

I also did the initial block ‘stuffing’ with all the pistons for the first time and checked rod side clearance. All look good.







More to come after a weekend off. Gonna catch a Jimmy Buffet show this weekend..
 

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You know you are measuring ACCURATELY when you get the same numbers, but you use two different methods. Specifically the exhaust numbers seem have about the same error when measured using the Centerline method and and the .050" lift method.

Keep the updates and pics coming......looking good so far!!!
 
Need some clarification of the procedure for measuring piston to deck clearance using a dial gauge. My question is, do I place the dial gauge in the center of the piston and rock it recording the largest measurement? Or, do I place the dial gauge on the edge of the piston parallel to the piston pin and rock it back and forth. I don’t completely understand the procedure ‘Post by pparaska‘ here http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=3048&hilit=deck+block

In the picture below I have the bridge setup on the rear edge of the piston. Should I be using the center (marked with a yellow dot) instead for this measurement?
 

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I'm not sure what pparaska is saying either.

I've seen it done two ways, but the results should be the same. First would be to place the
dial indicator (DI) 90 degrees to the pin and on the edge of the piston. Rock the piston
both directions and add the measurements together and divide by two or the average distance
from the block deck.

Second procedure is placing the DI directly over the wrist pin. Theoretically you could rock the
piston and there would be no change on the DI, but in reality there is a slight movement. This
compared to the block deck is your height.

This is how I did mine:



 

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"you'll need to consistently measure the piston quench area and the wrist pin center-line heights on the pistons, keeping in mind that rod and pistons dimensions vary slightly so you'll want to mix/match to minimize the combined differences, placing taller pin height pistons on shorter rods, etc."

pistons can and do rock in the bore very slightly so if you want the most consistent measurements between cylinders , youll use the yellow dot or center of the piston over the pin bore center line,and rock the piston on both edges measuring 90 degrees from the pin center line and average the two results, just be aware that your quench distance can change when the piston rocks slightly at higher rpms as theres definitely a thrust side and ring drag so the piston doesn,t always remain exactly strait in the bore center line


66962.jpg

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grumpyvette said:
"pistons can and do rock in the bore very slightly so if you want the most consistent measurements between cylinders , youll use the yellow dot or center of the piston over the pin bore center line,and rock the piston on both edges measuring 90 degrees from the pin center line and average the two results, just be aware that your quench distance can change when the piston rocks slightly at higher rpms as theres definitely a thrust side and ring drag so the piston doesn,t always remain exactly strait in the bore center line

Just to make sure I understand, does this look right?
 

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