My 1st. Street 383 Build

Most aftermarket fuel pressure regulators have racing in mind or design.
Inlet pressure meant to be 14-18psi pressure.
Carburator application.
There are very high volume mechanical fuel pumps made.
Best to have reserve capacity.
WOT pressure should hold rock steady at preset level.
Any more than 1/2psi drop undesirable.
AFR will fluctuate .
 
mathd said:
I have the innovate lm-2 me too, love it alot.
Got a question about it.
Your using the logworks while running the car, is there a special procedure for that?
i tried it with mine, dont know what am doing wrong but as soon as the car is running or after i plug the cigarette lighter(Cant really remember) the logworks no longer see/connect to the lm-2.

So do you plug usb before the cigaret lighter or the other way around? and do you plug into the cigarette lighter before you start the car or after?

Funny you ask that question. I had the same problem after I installed the Hyfire Ignition. When I was running the HEI, the LM2 would occasionally disconnect from the PC while driving. When it did this, it would 'lockup' the usb port on the PC. A reboot or 'find new hardware' from windows device manager would re-enable it. Pain in the tail. Imedately after I installed the Hyfire, The LM2 would disconnect all the time. Drove me insane. i dId a lot of research and it seems the USB port and LM2 USB drivers are sensitive to noise and ground loops. I figured I was getting additional noise after the Hyfire install. I did 2 things that fixed it.

First I installed a automotive noise filter on the DC supply for the LM2 like this one. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=265-4042

Second, The LM2 can be powered from the PC's USB port. There is no need for this while running on the cars 12V so I did the following test by placing a small piece of tape over the USB power connector described below. Figured there could be another source of noise between the PC and LM2 or ground loops.



After these 2 mods, the LM2 will stay connected to the PC all day while driving the car.

I would also recommend not using the cigarette lighter adapter, I could never get mine to stay connected.
So I got one of these and tapped the LM2 cigarette connector in place so it wouldn't pop out. Then connected it directly to the battery. Easy in the vette. This keeps the LM2 power cable intact so it can be used in the future if needed..
 

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Indycars said:
What do you have invested in the Innovate system at this point? Sure looks
to be fun to work with.

The base kit is around $350 these days. I have had mine for a while now.
The TPS and MAP sensors I got from the junk yard and recently picked up the pressure sensor off Ebay,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25082114580...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

For me, money well spent. Very helpful to 'see' whats going on with the AFR and other data inputs while driving. Now, If I had to do it over again, I would have considered going with an EFI setup because you basically get the same functionality be default with the TBI EFI systems on the market today. You figure $500 for a 750 DP and $350 for the LM2, your half way to an EFI setup.
 
Thanks you for the reply, will give it a try when wallet allow me to :)
I also use a map sensor (2 bar)from the parts store. same model as the one in the picture.
You got the TPS on the junk yard. this bring one more question(am curious :) ).
Did you use any specific model? My understanding was that you had to use a special tps sensor for use with holley carb(i also read on this forum how to make one, wich i will probably give a try this winter) But if i can get a retrofit unit from the junkyard that will be the way to go for me.

Also thanks for the link on the pressure sensor, been looking for one unsuccessfully(i may sound stupid but i did not know the real name for the part). definatly on my "to buy list".
 
mathd said:
You got the TPS on the junk yard. this bring one more question(am curious :) ).
Did you use any specific model? My understanding was that you had to use a special tps sensor for use with holley carb(i also read on this forum how to make one, wich i will probably give a try this winter) But if i can get a retrofit unit from the junkyard that will be the way to go for me.


No problem, I made a bracket that positions the TPS inline with the primary throttle shaft. Removed the choke cam stuff and installed a small lever to actuate the TPS. Very similar the the innovate TPS kit. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16284

I'll get some pics of mine up soon.
 

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bytor said:
mathd said:
You got the TPS on the junk yard. this bring one more question(am curious :) ).
Did you use any specific model? My understanding was that you had to use a special tps sensor for use with holley carb(i also read on this forum how to make one, wich i will probably give a try this winter) But if i can get a retrofit unit from the junkyard that will be the way to go for me.


No problem, I made a bracket that positions the TPS inline with the primary throttle shaft. Removed the choke cam stuff and installed a small lever to actuate the TPS. Very similar the the innovate TPS kit. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16284

I'll get some pics of mine up soon.

Ahh, but my holley has a choke, that make things more complicated lol.
 
I just read this entire thread Bytor. I'm impressed with both your engine work
and your thought process and troubleshooting/tuning ability. Great work.

I realize it has been almost 3 years..... how about an update?
 
I see that we used the same King bearings. How do you like them? The SI bearings
are different than traditional bi or tri metal bearings. Notes from my build sheets:

CP-Series, AM-Series & SI-Series Bearings:
King CP-Series, AM-Series & SI-Series bearings are recommended for OE applications. CP-Series bearings are copper-lead on steel (Tri-Metal) with a .001" copper-lead tin overplate. AM-Series bearings are aluminum-copper-tin plus Alloy on high-strength steel (Bi-Metal). SI-Series bearings are Silicon-Aluminum bearings (Bi-Metal) which are designed for Aftermarket Gasoline or Diesel Engine Rebuilding & Performance Engines with OE Crankshafts.

Main KING Silicon Alecular MB557SI .010

King Silicon Alecular Bearings:
The silicon particles help round off high spots on the crank surface during engine operation, which reduces friction & related wear. Because the bearings are unplated, wall variances are reduced by as much as 40% less than tri-metal (over-plated copper lead) bearings. KING's SI bearings easily exceed maximum peak load capacity for car and light duty applications. Minimized debris embedment, SI bearings are unplated and bored, hard-particle debris is instantly flushed through the bearing and filtered out of engine rather than scoring the crankshaft and causing long term damage.


Rod KING Silicon Alecular CR865AM .010 + .002 OD w/Housing Bore Resized .002" Larger Than Stock

from enginebuildermag.com: According to one crankshaft manufacturer, the first factor to be considered in choosing the correct engine bearings is the actual material the crankshaft is made of. The crankshaft manufacturer will provide you with reliable information as to which bearings they consider to be best suited for their product, and you should heed this information closely.

For high performance and mild race engines high quality, cast iron or steel alloy is a popular material. Due to its metallurgical composition, crankshaft suppliers often recommend using a classic bi-metal design bearing with any cast crankshaft. A forged or billet steel crankshaft considerably expands your choices for bearing designs.
Perhaps the best advice given here is again to check with the crankshaft supplier and choose main, thrust and rod bearings recommended by the crank and bearing manufacturers. It’s also imperative to carefully check that each bearing will clear the radius in the journals and still provide the right amount of clearance required for the application. Again, information you obtain from the crankshaft and bearing manufacturer should be your guide for bearing material and design, and recommended clearances.
 
Thinking ahead on block prep steps. What’s the right way to freshen up the timing cover, water pump and oil pan gasket surfaces on the block? Mine are in good shape with no chips or scratches but just not fresh looking like the machined deck area.



Is something like the Scotch Bright woven abrasive or Bristle surface conditioning disk safe to use?
I might use a fine rat tail file to smooth it spraying WD-40 with light pressure.
 
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