My Cam Research for the Experts Eye

Test fit of intake/gaskets, it all fits like a glove.
When I first built the engine I had done some mild chamber and port match on the heads. I'm happy with the current gasket.
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I set lifter preload, with everything locked down it looks like my original M/T valve covers will fit after all. No interference even without a gasket.
I'm really happy about this - I had really wanted to re-use them.

Edit - I've seen different recommendations for setting preload on the Morels. Basic instructions read 1/2 turn but in a lot of cases that's a bit light, noisy. Many go a full turn. I know this is probably splitting hairs but I set preload at 3/4 turn. We'll see how this works out.
 
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Ive generally found the most consistent and best results , if you warm the engine up to operational temps,
back off the rocker adjustment nut slowly just to the point the rocker clicks at idle, very slowly tighten,
just to the point the clicking stops and then add 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn and lock the jam nut.
in many engines youll find that when you first restart that engine its going to have a valve train click,
or two for the first 60- 1min-.45 seconds, but that stops as soon as the oil pressure stabilized so its of zero concern.
btw I also really like the appearance of the M/T valve covers, and
I generally find a valve train stabilization girdle a P.I.T.A. to use,
but well worth the extra effort.
obviously its critical you check all clearance issues



girdle9.jpg


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NOT ALL BBC ROCKER GIRDLES INTERCHANGE ON ALL BBC HEADS,
or

work with all rocker designs or all jam nut designs or fit under all valve covers

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Thanks Grumpy. Yes, even with priming the oil system I expect some initial bleed-down. Even though I'll run it at a high idle at least I don't have to go thru flat tappet break-in.
On the stud girdles, not disagreeing with their benefit, but I think they may be overkill for this mild revving build.
I will give that first and second oil fill a pan full of specific break-in oil.
 
your correct that theres much less benefit if the engine rpms rarely exceed 5000 rpm, but I generally install a rocker stud girdle,
if the wallet allows as they significantly reduce valve train component flex
 
I checked vc clearance to the polylocks using clay.
I put a 1/8 spacer on the vc, knowing that the min compressed thickness of the gasket will be about 3/16. Made it closer on purpose.
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I put a 3/8" clay spacer on each polylock, this is after setting the vc in place. Only the exhaust side made any contact.
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Clearance is between 3/16" and 1/4" at the closest point, so looks like plenty of space. I did rotate the engine to see if there was any contact between inboard end of rockers but the lifters weren't completely pumped up. But I think it will be ok, I'll prime the oil system and repeat rotation just to be sure.
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I remember when I checked pushrod lengths with the solid roller, the rockers didn't have an extreme angle when I rotated the assembly. But always need to check and check again.

Next is cleaning/polishing the covers.
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everything looks reasonably good so far:like:
Thanks as always for the help and advice.

This is the start of many passes of wet sanding and polishing. I'm not going for mirror finish, but a nice smooth sheen. I'll use the oil pan gray color between the fins for a little contrast. As you can see the surface is solid but has a lot of discoloration and staining.
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thats very common n older M/T valve covers, but its possible to polish them,
but most people just spray them with black crinkle paint as that looks good, why not try that,
if you don',t like the results you can just polish them again.

and theres always powder coating?


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Exactly because I see them all over the place with black wrinkle paint, I don't want to :wink:

I got 2 quotes for powdercoating that were ridiculously high, so that's out.

I think the low gloss sheen with the gray between the fins will look good and match up with the rest of the engine pretty well.
 
you can powder coat your valve covers in your own oven,
if the wife can be convinced to visit some relative while you do it!
its just not high tech
 
Lol I know I can but she says I can't! Already tried that awhile back.
And our oven is gas, not too good with fumes.
 
Little more work on the aluminum vc, coming along nicely.
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The steel black chrome covers I had ordered a while back arrived. They are the taller style, got them when I thought the MT covers wouldn't fit. I'm shocked at the very decent quality of these for the big cost of $60. Gauge is pretty thick and the finish looks nice. I do have the long rail clamps too. I like them.
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What I will do is finish the MT covers and then decide which vc to use. The tall covers will be quite close to the brake booster but I believe everything will fit ok.
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I want to make this very clear, this info is not directly related to your valve covers or choices its just basic valve cover related info.\

the links provide a great deal of related useful info



\




theres three basic common types of valve covers,
QUALITY varies wildly between models and brands and designs
stamped sheet metal
(usually painted or chrome plated) that are generally cheaply made and rather flimsy)
cbcover3.jpg


vc4.jpg


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-4480/
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welded aluminum

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cast valve covers that are generally more rigid and less prone to warping or bending than stamped but not usually as well built as welded aluminum versions
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welded aluminum, with welded internal bolt support tubes frequently with the bolt heads at the height of the external valve cover , designed to spread stress loads
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What did you use to get between the fins?
Soft pad 400, followed by red scotchbrite followed by 600 - that is sufficient to clean the surface without visible scratching yet gives tooth for the primer and paint. I used small cones to get into crevices.
Sides are not yet completely through the process but after that's done they will be hand polished to a mild sheen. For crevices I'll use slow small soft cones on slow speed.
As you can imagine the initial sanding is needed to get to a clean surface.
As far as clearance to the brake booster (including vc removal/install), I'll look at pics of installed engine with the MT covers to make a comparison to the taller steel covers. The MT covers could be removed and I'm still leaning towards re-using them. But we'll see.

Edit - after mulling it over, I'm going to use the new steel covers, mainly to save a bit of time getting the engine buttoned up. It will take me easily another week on the aluminum vc, and I want to move on to the intake. If there's a bad leak or something I'll deal with it at that time. The only difference is that I'll use cork vs rubber gasket for the steel covers.
 
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Getting the intake prepped, new bolts etc. The gasket also matches nicely on the intake side and I plan to use the exhaust restrictors.
Light film of Permatex #2 to seal bolt threads. RTV on the end rails and a light touch of it on both sides of the gasket. I know there's a blue sealant bead on one side but the Permatex gray rtv works very well to supplement it.
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Rhynosoft Pads

So here's a topic everybody loves - engine oil !

In my research on oil choice at break-in and beyond , I came across this:


The results in that document confirmed what I had generally found on Lucas, Driven, etc brand oils, in that they were somewhat mediocre choices. Original document was in 2013 with last update July 2022, so I believe it to remain relevant.

Further research highlighted, by coincidence, that the oil I use in our GM vehicles - Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 full synth - also yielded the highest wear protection, thermal resistance, etc in the testing . Don't get me wrong, there are others that are also very good, but the termed "break-in" oils don't really seem to be anything special. They tout high zinc but too much can be a bad thing. I looked at zinc and additive levels, related to both flat tappet and hydraulic roller engines. Reminder that mine is a hydraulic roller engine.

My conclusion was that there doesn't seem to be a good reason not to simply use QSUD 5w30 at initial break-in and in further oil changes. Bearing clearances are on the tighter side of spec. Morel recommends 5w30 or 10w30 weight for their lifters. I believe that ring seating will happen regardless more as a function of running and loading the engine than what oil is in there. Of course after initial run, oil and filter get changed out.
 
always completely blocked the heat crossover, especially if you don't drive it in cold weather.
I will use solid ss .018" shim sheet to block it off on both sides. The previous Performer intake didn't have the open exhaust crossover, but this RPM intake does.
I'll make a small bend on the top of the block offs to lip slightly over the gasket, my thought is to mechanically ensure the small pieces don't slide down into the engine. After dropping the washer into the pan I really don't want to repeat that anxiety. I will use high temp rtv at these block offs too.
 
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