My Chevelle build and spot to Rant

Ok long night tonight started work on the new block. I started in on the lifter deck opening up the rear oil passages and redirecting the oil to back of the block. I am going to clean up the whole valley. I also got some of the destressing done around the valley and the deck area. Allot more to do. This is at a friend of mines garage I forgot to get a pic next time will snap some off. He has a fun little toy a 2400lb 79 E32 bmw with a modern m3 inline 6. 300hp factory he will be turboing it his half brother has already done his and is putting 500rwhp in one of those light cars.
 
Got some pics for you guys. Of the destressing and smoothing of the oil galley. You can see where I opened up the rear oil return hole. I will invest in magnets and screens. You can also see where the ridges were reamed out. I will be checking the bore sizes soon hope fully I can go with a hone and a custom piston!!
20161016_163228-600x800.jpg 20161016_163221-600x800.jpg 20161016_163212-600x800.jpg PSX_20161016_200908-600x689.jpg
 
thanks for posting some really clear pictures!
be sure to lightly hone the lifter bores and have the block checked for cracks
and carefully cleaned in the oil passages internally, before the cam bearings and gallery plugs are installed

you may find very useful info in the links below

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/storing-an-engine-block.12262/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/painting-your-engine-color-selection.7703/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-shrapnel-screens.1458/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...eventing-engine-block-main-cap-movement.6162/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/machine-work-costs.3169/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-spring-cooling-via-engine-oil.6491/
 
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Once you get the block machined, washed and ready to assemble, a good coat of internal paint(glytpal red)on all non machined surfaces would help your oil flow back to the pan easier. Keep those bare areas coated with WD 40 to stop flash rust from occurring.
 
busterrm said:
Once you get the block machined, washed and ready to assemble, a good coat of internal paint(glytpal red)on all non machined surfaces would help your oil flow back to the pan easier. Keep those bare areas coated with WD 40 to stop flash rust from occurring.
Click to expand...
That red rag right there is soaked in oil I have been keeping up with that!!!
Grumpy this is the block I already had Mag checked but will review the topics you listed it's the little details that make the difference.
 
Ok, I made that mistake and it cost me several scotchbrite pads and 2 sore elbows from the 2 1/2 - 3 hours of elbow grease.
 
busterrm said:
Once you get the block machined, washed and ready to assemble, a good coat of internal paint(glytpal red)on all non machined surfaces would help your oil flow back to the pan easier. Keep those bare areas coated with WD 40 to stop flash rust from occurring.
Click to expand...

Glyptal did not work for me. Before applying, I hung the block in the heated Trichlor vapor degreaser at my place of work at the time.
Trichlor cleans into the "pores" of the metal. THIS BLOCK WAS CLEAN. Good thing I only painted the lifter valley with it.
Needless to say, the Glyptal started coming off in a short period of time. It took hours to scrape the rest out. I am not positive,
as to whether I applied 1 or 2 coats. Maybe the 1st coat stuck really well to the bare cast iron, and the 2nd coat is what was coming
off. I use Rustoleum now. It stays put.
 
I read the instructions on the side of the can. I gives a method of preparing the cast iron for the paint. It also says for internal engine surfaces to only use one coat, a generous coat, and it also says after applying the coat to either put the part in direct sunlight with a temp of 85 degrees or greater or a heated area of the same heat. I painted the interior of my block in the middle of summer when the temps were above 90 degrees. I painted in the morning when it was about 85 degrees and then shut the shop door. Temps that day got up to about 95, with my shop closed I am sure it got to probably 105 or better. It basically got cooked onto the block. It sat in the shop for probably a month before I did the final wash, sprayed it with WD 40 after the final wash and plastic bagged it until I started the final assembly.
 
yeah not interest in doing work twice on this block I will put in the effort and get it where I want it but keep up on it also. I will probably polish everything I can and use every trick in the book with in budget to get the most out of the block as this is only a 2 bolt main I am not going to splay cause at that point a dart block would just make more sense and this is under a budget restraints.
 
yes almost all the time everyones damn reluctant to spend the cash on a DART block, (the first time they build a serious engine)
but after you get done with the machine work costs, at your local machine shop, and realize what you spent on a stock SBC OEM block,
and get a detailed report showing the exact meassurements on the stock blocks bore wall thickness and total the bills ,
you had to pay out, youll have a far different perspective on the cost of that dart block
 
I agree with Grumpy on that for sure. If you're going with a mild build the production block is okay, but doesn't have all the benefits of technology that is put into the Dart blocks. Also, if you decide on Glyptal to paint the interior of the block send me a PM, you can have what I have left, one can will probably paint 3-4 blocks easily. If you send me the money for the shipping its yours.
A can of Glyptal is about 45-50 dollars and shipping via UPS is about 15 dollars to you in West Sand Lake, NY
 
Thank you when it comes close to that time I will definitely take you up on that offer.

Grumpy ready to drop a whole bunch of new links on me. I am adressing a new oil pan that will have a crank scraper and windage tray designed for road racing or scca. Oil pump which one HV HP the engine rev limiter is going to be set at around the 6800 mark.
 
well you should have more than likely already read these

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/magnets.120/#post-49771

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-pumps-pressure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-accumulator.1280/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ectly-installing-arp-bbc-oil-pump-stud.12556/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-spring-cooling-via-engine-oil.6491/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-and-improved-oil-flow-mods.3834/#post-52401

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-shrapnel-screens.1458/#post-22845


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-57678

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-66870

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/
 
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Working with Lance from pantera efi on this to get a good rotating assembly and the rest of the efi system built.
I have purchase a holley 58x reluctor from ebay
other recent purchases from Lance at Pantera are
Firmware update and changed the map on the ecu free (it was a 2bar I plan on running NA)
A set of LS1 gen IV coils
a wiring harness as I did not have one
MAT sensor
CLT sensor
And a set of 6" Forged rods for the rotating assembly that are still in the mail
I will have more pics for you guys soon!!!
 
don,t assume anything! when you assemble the connecting rods and pistons there is ALWAYS some minor differences in dimensions so try to match the slightly shorter rods to the pistons with taller pin locations so the average quench distances is a bit more consistent

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/
 
Well tossed them each on the scale this morning to get a wuick baseline will need to get the proper stand if I plan to balance them myself.
15D 543- 642.93 gr.
15D 652- 643.53 gr.
15D 386- 642.72 gr.
15D 315- 643.14 gr.
15D 662- 643.30 gr.
15D 640- 642.99 gr.
15D 225- 643.03 gr.
15D 015- 641.05 gr.
These are overall weights so not accurate for balancing purpose just a general idea.

They were weighed on a metler scale that was calibrated by metler this week.
 
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