My Chevelle build and spot to Rant
- Thread starter Strictly Attitude
- Start date
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
That check ball no longer exists in my transmission as I put a reverse manual valve body w/engine braking in as part of my build non of the check balls that are under the valve body went back in.
8
87vette81big
Guest
Well. Too late John.
New 2-4 Checkvalve goes in the empty clean bare case 1st.
Lots of blueprinting tricks you can do to a 700R4.
ATSG Ok. But not all covered in there. Stock rebuilds intended only.
New 2-4 Checkvalve goes in the empty clean bare case 1st.
Lots of blueprinting tricks you can do to a 700R4.
ATSG Ok. But not all covered in there. Stock rebuilds intended only.
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
Indycars said:
Nope it was the TCC valve popped out that pump and snap oops lol there is a new one in there now
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
Well lets see where did I leave off I do believe I was going into my transmission build, I'm sure I missed a bunch of stuff in my life other wise would be a novel like I also tattoo, well as it be I was furious now due to the fact I realize I had been ripped off the clutch packs in the 3/4 drum were less than advertised cause there is no way they would fit in an 83 input drum the beast sun shell was factory at least some of the stuff was in there and reusable even though I had most of it from it coming with the new valve body.
So I started with
83 core 700r4
burnt reverse drum needed replacement
stock width replacement band carbon with reinforced pin whole brand new Alto
a 2000 stall converter that cam with the transmission when my dad ordered it (stock cheapy I am sure) probably a dacco or who ever they use that's the cheapest
well I had only one thing going for me I had good people who hate fly by night to good to be true transmission sales.
So I started to figure out a list I had asked Mark Bowler what I would need and let him know what parts I already had
new reverse drum
A Alto carbon wide band
aluminum reverse piston (83 came with steel it is not compatible with the new style reverse drum)
raybestos z-pak (I had bought it when the reverse drum went I was told might as well change it you will be in that far to the trans)
a late model input drum (30 spline replacement came out of 4l60e 94 model 4x4)
new stator support for 30 spline drum (stole one out of the 4l60 but broke it pressing it out so a sonnax was bought)
A rebuild kit with all gaskets new clutches and steels
Full manual valve body w/engine braking
Smart shell or beast chose the smart shell to replace the known week sun shell
New Torque converter(revmax stage 3 2600 stall with woven carbon lockup upgrade)
transmission pressure guage
transmission temp guage
transmission cooler (not purchased yet)
transmission pan (not purchased yet) still have the stock steel one
14 quarts of Transmission fluid (not purchased yet) not sure if I'm gonna spend the money on amsoil or run walmart brand yet
700r4 wiring harness for TCC lockup control (not purchased yet ebay $12)
a solenoid for the lock up and a toggle switch
All the other common upgrades were in the transmission
I was on the fence about the 5 pinion planets and opted out as I will probably not have slicks on the car. If I do they will be road race slicks and will not see the shock of drag racing launchs.
I ended up also buying some new tools to get the job done a digital indicator and caliper
I also made some tools built my own spring compressor tool
I lucked out all ended up in spec but had to get a cone plate to replace the wavy in the reverse drum after that the tolerance was to spec.
I could use some suggestions on how to run lockup I was planning solenoid off the brake lights and switch if I wanna run lock up in 2nd or 3rd I need to do some home work in this area to make sure I got it the way I want . I do know or have been told full throttle lock up a no no if I want to keep the lock up clutch alive.
And some air brush work for you guys to look at
So I started with
83 core 700r4
burnt reverse drum needed replacement
stock width replacement band carbon with reinforced pin whole brand new Alto
a 2000 stall converter that cam with the transmission when my dad ordered it (stock cheapy I am sure) probably a dacco or who ever they use that's the cheapest
well I had only one thing going for me I had good people who hate fly by night to good to be true transmission sales.
So I started to figure out a list I had asked Mark Bowler what I would need and let him know what parts I already had
new reverse drum
A Alto carbon wide band
aluminum reverse piston (83 came with steel it is not compatible with the new style reverse drum)
raybestos z-pak (I had bought it when the reverse drum went I was told might as well change it you will be in that far to the trans)
a late model input drum (30 spline replacement came out of 4l60e 94 model 4x4)
new stator support for 30 spline drum (stole one out of the 4l60 but broke it pressing it out so a sonnax was bought)
A rebuild kit with all gaskets new clutches and steels
Full manual valve body w/engine braking
Smart shell or beast chose the smart shell to replace the known week sun shell
New Torque converter(revmax stage 3 2600 stall with woven carbon lockup upgrade)
transmission pressure guage
transmission temp guage
transmission cooler (not purchased yet)
transmission pan (not purchased yet) still have the stock steel one
14 quarts of Transmission fluid (not purchased yet) not sure if I'm gonna spend the money on amsoil or run walmart brand yet
700r4 wiring harness for TCC lockup control (not purchased yet ebay $12)
a solenoid for the lock up and a toggle switch
All the other common upgrades were in the transmission
I was on the fence about the 5 pinion planets and opted out as I will probably not have slicks on the car. If I do they will be road race slicks and will not see the shock of drag racing launchs.
I ended up also buying some new tools to get the job done a digital indicator and caliper
I also made some tools built my own spring compressor tool
I lucked out all ended up in spec but had to get a cone plate to replace the wavy in the reverse drum after that the tolerance was to spec.
I could use some suggestions on how to run lockup I was planning solenoid off the brake lights and switch if I wanna run lock up in 2nd or 3rd I need to do some home work in this area to make sure I got it the way I want . I do know or have been told full throttle lock up a no no if I want to keep the lock up clutch alive.
And some air brush work for you guys to look at
Attachments
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
8
87vette81big
Guest
I like your airbrush work.
A simple toggle switch wired to 12 vdc can be used for TCC lockup
Lockup should be no lower than the engine can handle without lugging.
The Sonnex Stator shaft I used too.
It does not line up exact as GM OEM.
The oil feed holes are partially covered.
Solution is to RIFLE DRILL With a 1/4" Aircraft Drill Bit.
Oil feed holes seen with a bright flashlight .
Mine are A-ok Now.
No blown up 700R4.
I used the 5-pinion planets in my build.
A simple toggle switch wired to 12 vdc can be used for TCC lockup
Lockup should be no lower than the engine can handle without lugging.
The Sonnex Stator shaft I used too.
It does not line up exact as GM OEM.
The oil feed holes are partially covered.
Solution is to RIFLE DRILL With a 1/4" Aircraft Drill Bit.
Oil feed holes seen with a bright flashlight .
Mine are A-ok Now.
No blown up 700R4.
I used the 5-pinion planets in my build.
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
I still have a parts list on amazon for the 5 pinion conversion lol
I did read the gm manual on the transmission also so I did not only fix the trans but understand why I am doing what I was to it. Throwing money at something is not always the best idea but know what your doing and why you are spending the money is more important. I look forward to the day I can start on my own chassis and start building fiberglass and carbon fiber body parts. I know the faster way to performance would be a corvette but I love the idea of a 70s muscle cranking turns like a more modern sports car. I will not be afraid to fully transform the car push the engine back and lower it on the new chassis. Use a dry sump oil system to get more clearance. My goal is to build the most bad ass machine I can for the best my skill and wallet will allow. I am lucky to be blessed with skill cause the wallet isn't helping much.
I did pick up my gauges from eBay got the tci pressure guage $37 shipped never used display model looks brand new. I also got a liquid filled temp auto meter gauge for 35 never installed allot can be said for patients when looking for parts deals. I keep waiting for that uninstalled solid roller with lifters no reserve auction lol
I did read the gm manual on the transmission also so I did not only fix the trans but understand why I am doing what I was to it. Throwing money at something is not always the best idea but know what your doing and why you are spending the money is more important. I look forward to the day I can start on my own chassis and start building fiberglass and carbon fiber body parts. I know the faster way to performance would be a corvette but I love the idea of a 70s muscle cranking turns like a more modern sports car. I will not be afraid to fully transform the car push the engine back and lower it on the new chassis. Use a dry sump oil system to get more clearance. My goal is to build the most bad ass machine I can for the best my skill and wallet will allow. I am lucky to be blessed with skill cause the wallet isn't helping much.
I did pick up my gauges from eBay got the tci pressure guage $37 shipped never used display model looks brand new. I also got a liquid filled temp auto meter gauge for 35 never installed allot can be said for patients when looking for parts deals. I keep waiting for that uninstalled solid roller with lifters no reserve auction lol
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
the servo in it came with the corvette servo and the full manual valve body did also. I did not go billet because the valve body instructions take out the 2nd gear accumulator which will make for a harsher shift since there would not be any cushion from the accumulator. I did ask Mark Bowler what he suggested on the idea of going with sonnax or fairbanks servo he suggested to stick with the corvette servo in this case. I do have a real good grasp on the 700r4 as I have read the GM 4L60-E manual for the transmission. If any one would like to read it let me know I can send a copy of the pdf in through email. It explains every thing on the working of the transmission.DorianL said:
8
87vette81big
Guest
You always find out how good an Automatic Transmission is when you go Drag Racing.
And a Few Top End Runs of 150+ for 5 miles flat out.
You still missed a lot of Blueprint tricks.
Ignoring my advice.
So You know more than me.
Going elsewhere from here.
And a Few Top End Runs of 150+ for 5 miles flat out.
You still missed a lot of Blueprint tricks.
Ignoring my advice.
So You know more than me.
Going elsewhere from here.
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
I am not ignoring your advise at all. And do not believe that I know more about the transmission than you either.
This was my first transmission build and I am by far no where near an expert on transmissions and do not claim to be. I would like to know what I have missed that is not in the manual as to take the trans back apart is not a big deal to me as I have extra gaskets for the pump and valve body. I did the rebuilt in november so I do not remember every little thing I did but I do know I need to check the stator out for that oil passage so the pump will definately come back out and your advise will be taken. I feel blue printing is cheap insurance and I am open to any advise or tricks to be taken I cannot afford the parts for the 5 pinion planets.
I do not drag race and if the car does see the strip it would be on street tires and might be one test and tune night. I cannot auto-x the car right now or track day it as it is not mechanically fit for either task or the proper safety measures. I would starve the oil out as a new oil pan is needed the finned alluminum one on there was great for my dad who just drove it to the grocery store and to a car show here and there. But for me that is no good I will need a proper pan and windage system. My brakes need to be addressed very soon I do not like having drums all the way around. It is a bench seat car with lapbelts. So corbeau lg1 sport seats are in the near future also.
I want a street car right now that will be a road track day car down the road. I will build a seperate rolling chassis with tremec t56 6 speed and a properly prepared block for that application. Right now if I am about having fun with the car going to car shows. My dreams are far down the road but I can gain a ton of knowledge and start hunting parts here and there to knock my list down little by little. I will have a driver that I can enjoy and keep healthy and moving while I plan and stratigize how to make this dream come true. I am still at the design stage of this build I try to buy parts that will work down the road along with keeping the car going for now the 700r4 will stay in the car. It is not going to be a permanent fixture but needed to be repaired and at least to a level that it would be reliable for me.
My real outlook on this car right now is I will be driving back and forth to work as much as I can in the summer spring and fall. I will probably drive it 2.5 hours on the highway to the syracuse nationals if I feel it is going to be reliable for that trip. I will go to local car shows probably not enter them but go to them with it such as the Aderondack Nations also.
This was my first transmission build and I am by far no where near an expert on transmissions and do not claim to be. I would like to know what I have missed that is not in the manual as to take the trans back apart is not a big deal to me as I have extra gaskets for the pump and valve body. I did the rebuilt in november so I do not remember every little thing I did but I do know I need to check the stator out for that oil passage so the pump will definately come back out and your advise will be taken. I feel blue printing is cheap insurance and I am open to any advise or tricks to be taken I cannot afford the parts for the 5 pinion planets.
I do not drag race and if the car does see the strip it would be on street tires and might be one test and tune night. I cannot auto-x the car right now or track day it as it is not mechanically fit for either task or the proper safety measures. I would starve the oil out as a new oil pan is needed the finned alluminum one on there was great for my dad who just drove it to the grocery store and to a car show here and there. But for me that is no good I will need a proper pan and windage system. My brakes need to be addressed very soon I do not like having drums all the way around. It is a bench seat car with lapbelts. So corbeau lg1 sport seats are in the near future also.
I want a street car right now that will be a road track day car down the road. I will build a seperate rolling chassis with tremec t56 6 speed and a properly prepared block for that application. Right now if I am about having fun with the car going to car shows. My dreams are far down the road but I can gain a ton of knowledge and start hunting parts here and there to knock my list down little by little. I will have a driver that I can enjoy and keep healthy and moving while I plan and stratigize how to make this dream come true. I am still at the design stage of this build I try to buy parts that will work down the road along with keeping the car going for now the 700r4 will stay in the car. It is not going to be a permanent fixture but needed to be repaired and at least to a level that it would be reliable for me.
My real outlook on this car right now is I will be driving back and forth to work as much as I can in the summer spring and fall. I will probably drive it 2.5 hours on the highway to the syracuse nationals if I feel it is going to be reliable for that trip. I will go to local car shows probably not enter them but go to them with it such as the Aderondack Nations also.
8
87vette81big
Guest
What have you done to address the Variable pump slide vane displacement problem at 5,000-6k crankshaft RPM?
ALL 700R4 &4L60E SUCK IN STOCK FORM.
What have you done to insure the 3-4 clutch pack will release clean at High centrifigcal forces at 5-7 k Crank Rpms?
What have you done to insure 100% perfect synchronized 2-4 band apply with the 3-4 clutch pack?
ALL 700R4 &4L60E SUCK IN STOCK FORM.
What have you done to insure the 3-4 clutch pack will release clean at High centrifigcal forces at 5-7 k Crank Rpms?
What have you done to insure 100% perfect synchronized 2-4 band apply with the 3-4 clutch pack?
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
87vette81big said:
I am willing to listen and learn and if it is a feasible option for me I will make corrections to avoid issues and have a properly built transmission while it is still on the work bench. It would be nice to have a transmission that is worth something when I sell it down the road. Allong with some peice of mind. I appreciate all advise!!
8
87vette81big
Guest
Transgo .
Superior .
Check It.
Intake & Exhaust Ports on Seperator plate.
Some must be custom sized.
Superior .
Check It.
Intake & Exhaust Ports on Seperator plate.
Some must be custom sized.
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
Well today I was giving some thought to design ideas for the chevelle let start with the decoded vin
Year: 1971
Series: (36) Malibu, V8 engine
Body Style: (37) 2-door sport coupe (33/34/35/36 series only)
Plant: (B) Baltimore, Maryland
Chevelle #: 118786 for Baltimore, Maryland
Funny thing is it is registered as a 1972 has a 1972 front end on it and the vin does match the registrations vin so no funny business there. Just a crazy little mystery to me I looked at other clues to like the horn location which is where a 71 chevelles should be mounted behind the drivers side head light. So she will be resurected with a 71 front.
and theinterior trim code is 736 which is
Dark Jade Roma Cloth, Antique Dark Jade Coated Fabric
so it is supposed to look like this
It is all black now still bench seat still sweep dash pretty good shape though
The exterior paint code is 43 which is
Lime Green
so my chevelle is supposed to like this
even though I see this being a closer match to the factory paint I have found
It is a factory AC car.
With that out of the way the chances of it being a real SS are slim to nothing and it is more than likely a cloned malibu so I don't feel bad chopping it up and making it into the car I want I cannot keep the bench and will probably fabricate most of the interior with use of composites fiberglass or carbon fiber. I will use vacuum bagging to keep the parts weights down to a minimum. And should lose some pounds switching over to a set corbeau sport seats LG1 models. I will then be counter productive and put power options in the car such as power windows. I would like to have a full cage in the car but only if I can place the bars far enough from my head to create a safe enviroment for when I am strapped with out a helmet. I know harnesses are built to stretch up to 2 inches.
As for the exterior the color will be black the car will go on a diet of as much composite parts as possible the bumpers will be painted with alsa mirror chrome or a chrome vinyl wrap to keep the factory look. Crush zones will be built into the chassis and foam also used to keep crash protection up. I will try to squeze as much aero as I can with starting from a muscle car. I do want to use some accenting of lime green to pay homage to the cars roots as it rolled off the factory floor. I was thinking more along the lines of lime time pearl HOK though.
I really like the stance of this
But tire rub on the front tires scares me lookes pretty deep in the fender. Not sure how that would pan out trying to turn hard.
The chassis I will still be using a solid axle rear. Full coil over suspension more of a BBSS(Big Bar Soft Spring) suspension. So my big question here is this do I
A. build a tube chassis design it and have the plans looked over by a professional before the build and after. CAD designed. My theory is it can built over time while I drive the car. Then the Body can be fitted after it gets frame off.
B. modify the existing chassis to fit the bill of the pro touring build strengthening week points, Boxing, drive shaft loops, etc.
C. Buy a suspension package and not be happy with myself
Here is the factory chassis dimensions
There room for allot of improvement, bump stop, camber and caster issues, braking, weight distabution, need to at least mini tub it to fit wider rubber.
I figure you have to start some where and brain storming into a plan is where I'm at. All input is always welcome!! Your not gonna hurt my feelings and this is a 10-15 year build at least. I have a son that I want to bring him up around this enviroment if we wants to hang with dad in the garage or go play thats fine with me but he will exposure to it and it will not be forced on him. He turns 2 next month so if I plan 15 years that will make him around 17 when it gets finished. Hopefully I will have a milder car for him to work on to go tear up the track with wether auto-x or road course day.
Year: 1971
Series: (36) Malibu, V8 engine
Body Style: (37) 2-door sport coupe (33/34/35/36 series only)
Plant: (B) Baltimore, Maryland
Chevelle #: 118786 for Baltimore, Maryland
Funny thing is it is registered as a 1972 has a 1972 front end on it and the vin does match the registrations vin so no funny business there. Just a crazy little mystery to me I looked at other clues to like the horn location which is where a 71 chevelles should be mounted behind the drivers side head light. So she will be resurected with a 71 front.
and theinterior trim code is 736 which is
Dark Jade Roma Cloth, Antique Dark Jade Coated Fabric
so it is supposed to look like this
It is all black now still bench seat still sweep dash pretty good shape though
The exterior paint code is 43 which is
Lime Green
so my chevelle is supposed to like this
even though I see this being a closer match to the factory paint I have found
It is a factory AC car.
With that out of the way the chances of it being a real SS are slim to nothing and it is more than likely a cloned malibu so I don't feel bad chopping it up and making it into the car I want I cannot keep the bench and will probably fabricate most of the interior with use of composites fiberglass or carbon fiber. I will use vacuum bagging to keep the parts weights down to a minimum. And should lose some pounds switching over to a set corbeau sport seats LG1 models. I will then be counter productive and put power options in the car such as power windows. I would like to have a full cage in the car but only if I can place the bars far enough from my head to create a safe enviroment for when I am strapped with out a helmet. I know harnesses are built to stretch up to 2 inches.
As for the exterior the color will be black the car will go on a diet of as much composite parts as possible the bumpers will be painted with alsa mirror chrome or a chrome vinyl wrap to keep the factory look. Crush zones will be built into the chassis and foam also used to keep crash protection up. I will try to squeze as much aero as I can with starting from a muscle car. I do want to use some accenting of lime green to pay homage to the cars roots as it rolled off the factory floor. I was thinking more along the lines of lime time pearl HOK though.
I really like the stance of this
But tire rub on the front tires scares me lookes pretty deep in the fender. Not sure how that would pan out trying to turn hard.
The chassis I will still be using a solid axle rear. Full coil over suspension more of a BBSS(Big Bar Soft Spring) suspension. So my big question here is this do I
A. build a tube chassis design it and have the plans looked over by a professional before the build and after. CAD designed. My theory is it can built over time while I drive the car. Then the Body can be fitted after it gets frame off.
B. modify the existing chassis to fit the bill of the pro touring build strengthening week points, Boxing, drive shaft loops, etc.
C. Buy a suspension package and not be happy with myself
Here is the factory chassis dimensions
There room for allot of improvement, bump stop, camber and caster issues, braking, weight distabution, need to at least mini tub it to fit wider rubber.
I figure you have to start some where and brain storming into a plan is where I'm at. All input is always welcome!! Your not gonna hurt my feelings and this is a 10-15 year build at least. I have a son that I want to bring him up around this enviroment if we wants to hang with dad in the garage or go play thats fine with me but he will exposure to it and it will not be forced on him. He turns 2 next month so if I plan 15 years that will make him around 17 when it gets finished. Hopefully I will have a milder car for him to work on to go tear up the track with wether auto-x or road course day.
Attachments
Are you against buying a roll cage kit, seems there might be something out
there that would work for what you need. I understand that sometimes we
just want to do it ourselves, but if nothing else looking at them would provide
some ideas.
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=7702
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1970 ... evelle_ss/
http://www.jegs.com/p/Jegster/Roll-Cage ... 8/10002/-1
http://www.summitracing.com/search/make ... cage%20kit
8
87vette81big
Guest
I have young kids too John.
So I have to save up for what I want.
Grumpy has Preached keep it practicle.
My Favorite Highschool Teacher Said Daily....
KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID !
A True Race Car is hard to Enjoy.
In the past lesser guys would Travel as a Group cruising.
A Deversion for the Real Race Cars to come out & play.
They had no headlights or taillights or wundshield wipers.
Have multiple driving infractions taking place over 20 square miles.
Harley Guys woyld help too.
Real race action took place after 2Am.
Hockiss Suspensions parts.
Stilleto Rack & Pinion Steering. Worthy of NASCAR.
DO IT.
DRIVE & ENJOY.
So I have to save up for what I want.
Grumpy has Preached keep it practicle.
My Favorite Highschool Teacher Said Daily....
KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID !
A True Race Car is hard to Enjoy.
In the past lesser guys would Travel as a Group cruising.
A Deversion for the Real Race Cars to come out & play.
They had no headlights or taillights or wundshield wipers.
Have multiple driving infractions taking place over 20 square miles.
Harley Guys woyld help too.
Real race action took place after 2Am.
Hockiss Suspensions parts.
Stilleto Rack & Pinion Steering. Worthy of NASCAR.
DO IT.
DRIVE & ENJOY.
Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
I am totally not against it just wondering if it would provide a tight fit to the body. I notice they are built to put in allot of similar cars. I am really looking for the fit aspect only cause there will be allot seat time with out a helmet.Indycars said: