My Chevelle build and spot to Rant

first thanks for posting the clear p[pictures as it makes understanding your project progress far easier to understand.
and yes your making progress and youll feel far better once youve made more obvious progress and as the project slowly advances.
congrats! it looks like your improving the cars condition and physical strength measurably!
many, in fact most people have looked over cars with similar rust damage and decided it was far too damaged to be salvageable,
the fact is that if the frame is in decent shape , or it can be replaced at a reasonable cost in a reasonable time frame,
and most of the major body panels are not rusted extensively,
a person can learn the proper body repair, welding and component replacement skills,
and replace the damaged areas.

thats one great reason , In an endless list of reasons to own,
and know how to use a a decent quality MIG or TIG welder,
I don't see how anyone in this hobby can function,
without a decent welder , drill press and a decent tool chest

we have a whole welding section
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?forums/welding-tips-and-welders.60/

http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/tig201.html

https://www.eastwood.com/welders/mig-welders.html

https://store.cyberweld.com/millerw...MI5IS68_L23QIVHbjACh3lSA4REAAYASAAEgI64_D_BwE

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/equipment/Pages/welders.aspx

https://www.weldersupply.com/C/42/TigMachines
 
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Grumpy all was hidden very well and was contained to a point it was not spreading by the previous owner I could have left it not my style. I like to know what I am dealing with and 1 and done attack conquer. Plus was my dad's car so has some sedimental value to me.
 
like you, if I knew the rust damage was there, even if no one else was aware of it!
it would RUIN the car ownership, for me UNTIL,
I'd correctly repaired and replaced the damaged areas in that car.
 
ordered a new toy to help out progress on the other side and the trunk filler panel.Capture.PNG
My harbor freight $12.99 air hammer stopped working properly (lost it's strength at first thought it was the chisel being dull but sharpened and still was weak) when I was working on the inner and outer wheel wells no fun need to replace should have saved receipt and grabbed a new one. Live and learn I will either pick up some shears, a nibbler, or a high speed air saw. Maybe a new hammer seems reviews on some other air hammers are not good either. Snap-on or Mac are not worth the extra coin as no truck is showing up at my house weekly to pay for that convenience. But still will get my ratchets from snap-on.
 
Spot weld cutter will help John.
I have used them.
Dip in 80-90 w gear oil.
Keep it sharp and not dull burn up.
Snap on has similar but Titanium coated.
Expensive but stay sharper longer.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
ordered a new toy to help out progress on the other side and the trunk filler panel.View attachment 10596
My harbor freight $12.99 air hammer stopped working properly (lost it's strength at first thought it was the chisel being dull but sharpened and still was weak) when I was working on the inner and outer wheel wells no fun need to replace should have saved receipt and grabbed a new one. Live and learn I will either pick up some shears, a nibbler, or a high speed air saw. Maybe a new hammer seems reviews on some other air hammers are not good either. Snap-on or Mac are not worth the extra coin as no truck is showing up at my house weekly to pay for that convenience. But still will get my ratchets from snap-on.
Click to expand...

I have found that you MUST use air tool oil (no substitutions) with those tools. The wrong oil will "clog" them up.
I cleaned out my needle scaler in my parts washer, WD40 got it going again, and now the proper air tool oil keeps it running.
Your air hammer was only $12.99. Get the extra warranty. A tool like that destroys itself, so you can get a new one at will.
I will check what brand of air chisel I have. No problems ever, so far. Used it quite a bit to remove the frame rust an my truck.
Just like in this video. It's the only tool that will break the thick scale free.
 
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Saw an IR air hammer one amazon for around 50 that had decent ratings but I already have allot on my list I need, so on hold unless needed. I should not need for tomorrow. Have plenty to keep busy on. Have to remove gas tank and get steel to mount fuel cell low and close to rear diff. Nedd to leave room to be able to service diff also.
 
Also nned to think pan hard bar and 3 link originally was thinking watts link but pan hard bard leaves minimal travel if long enough and is lighter then a watts link. Allot of work ahead but stay on it when I can. Promotion at work led to allot of travel this summer with work. So free time went to the boy not the car. Last week took him to Seasame Place in Pa. So no work done plus need to finish body work on buddies rare BMW he is gonna flip. That will pay for Crower shaft stainless rockers for my heads.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Saw an IR air hammer one amazon for around 50 that had decent ratings but I already have allot on my list I need, so on hold unless needed. I should not need for tomorrow. Have plenty to keep busy on. Have to remove gas tank and get steel to mount fuel cell low and close to rear diff. Nedd to leave room to be able to service diff also.
Click to expand...
Just Buy an air hammer from Wally World for now John.

SOIUX Tools makes Nice Air Hammers.
Not Break the bank.
Made in SIOUX Iowa.

Snap On & Matco Air Hammers are nice.
I snag the Bosses at work out of his Toolbox when I need.
They cost $250 - 400.
Expensive but powerfull & nice.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Also nned to think pan hard bar and 3 link originally was thinking watts link but pan hard bard leaves minimal travel if long enough and is lighter then a watts link. Allot of work ahead but stay on it when I can. Promotion at work led to allot of travel this summer with work. So free time went to the boy not the car. Last week took him to Seasame Place in Pa. So no work done plus need to finish body work on buddies rare BMW he is gonna flip. That will pay for Crower shaft stainless rockers for my heads.
Click to expand...
Gotta get the sidejobs done.
Been posting mine on Digital Corvette on Autowiz's thread.
We keep the place going for Grumpy & Torch.
Should start posting Crazy Eds work and mine here on a seperate thread.
Every night is an adventure.
 
Yes will try tomorrow but allot of welding tomorrow get that one side tied up then the filler panel. Will need to order parts passenger side need inner wheel house trunk drop down and trunk panel. Figure $250 give or take $50 in sheet metal. Have trunk filler panel already. Albany steel is 30 min drive to hit there scrap for square stock for fuel cell.
 
20180824_105723-490x1008.jpg So this stuff right here had that hammer kicking ass again just goes to show the importance of oiling your tools!
20180824_112828-490x1008.jpg So I took the trunk peice I bought layed over the junk metal and scribed out my line.
20180824_114702-490x1008.jpg
Working little at a time using the cut off wheel to start a cut about a quarter way through the metal.
20180824_115050-1008x490.jpg
Then using the air hammer to cut the metal. This is pretty quick compared to using just the wheel. But is no plasma cutter either.
20180824_115725-490x1008.jpg 20180824_120636-490x1008.jpg
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I only have a flux core welder it gets me by but as you can see the cancer cut out and allison welded up ready for steam sealer. A chunk will be cut out to recess the fuel cell also. Other wise would have done a full trunk pan. Either way cancer no more.
 
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