My Chevelle build and spot to Rant

That's the be safe before sorry chances its ok but not gonna risk it. I always mark my block before I send it any where also. Have had offers for 4 bolt trades because the track guys love a 2 bolt for splayed caps conversions. I will probably go that route depending the said and done cost. Nice slow build on the stand while I beat the other block into submission. Lol (I'm not that hard on the engine most of the time)
 
Strictly Attitude said:
That's the be safe before sorry chances its ok but not gonna risk it. I always mark my block before I send it any where also. Have had offers for 4 bolt trades because the track guys love a 2 bolt for splayed caps conversions. I will probably go that route depending the said and done cost. Nice slow build on the stand while I beat the other block into submission. Lol (I'm not that hard on the engine most of the time)
2- Bolt blocks will work just fine street ,strip, & Road Race.
Takes lots of $$$$ to build a 600-800Hp SBC.
400-500 HP level won't Bankrupt You & Starve the kids & wife.
Raw power easier made with a Big Block of any brand.
 
I would look for a Big Block Chevy 427-454, Pontiac 400-455, & Olds 403, 425,455.
Hood closed its a Chevy Chevelle. Mega Torque cheap.

Small Block Chevy is coming to an end for street domination.
Hellcat here soon with 707 Hp in mild tune.
Only all out drag & circle track screamers will keep up Sbc.
 
well my cam and lifters are ordered the lifters cost more than the cam, went with Isky SO202-H solid lifters. I am contemplating a new harmonic balancer, more like need a new balancer the one currently on there is a summit Pro Street chrome looking one not a smart balancer to spin fast. How do you guys feel about the ATI 917781 I really can't find a cheaper alternative to this I am afraid. Unless you guys know some thing I don't. I really need some thing reliable to 7000rpm so it is an investment for future builds. Cheapest found here 279.99 almost every where. It's only damper I don't here any thing negative about except the price.
 
Ok here is the list of current ordered parts
Ati-917781 harmonic balancer
Cloyes 9-3100 timing chain
Fel-Pro 1205 intake gasket
Fel-Pro tcs45165 timing cover set
Lucas 30 break-in oil 5qt
Piston stop
Summit degree wheel
Isky SO202H lifters
Lunati 30121101 cam
Aem 30-4110 wide band gauge
moroso 73800 ultra 40 wire set
And some ebay protector boots
still need to order my amsoil race oil and will get coolant from the local parts store.
 
I missed your PM John.
I like Isky Cams best.
They do the best job making tremendous torque everywhere.
Excellent Top End HP too .
What you find on Desk Top Dyno for best numbers to make you smile, in the car driving on street & track exceeds your expectations.
Tractuon becomes a Fun problem to resolve.
Crower is my #2 pick. They have a few profiles that shift Power numbers around better than others.
Tuning Race Edge when competition is real tough within 10Hp required to Win.
Your parts list is nice.
 
It's amazing how a cam change can turn into a nickel and dimed 1k easy even hunting down the best prices scoogin dickey saved me 75 over summit . I even gave them a chance to price match. The only reason they got my business after that phone call was they had my balancer along with miscellaneous other little things in stock. But at least I know quality parts are being put into the build.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
It's amazing how a cam change can turn into a nickel and dimed 1k easy even hunting down the best prices scoogin dickey saved me 75 over summit . I even gave them a chance to price match. The only reason they got my business after that phone call was they had my balancer along with miscellaneous other little things in stock. But at least I know quality parts are being put into the build.

yes all to often youll start out with a semi reasonable budget and a detailed list of parts, and by the time the machine shop labor and all the little things you forgot to add in or things that became a requirement to get the combo running correctly are added into the final bill, you look back and think back and realize you could have purchased a 502-572 big block for the true cost of that 383- 427 small block you built, and feel like puking! and realize that you need to think things thru and ask a great many more questions on your next build......thats called GAINING EXPERIENCE!


example, its hard to beat a 700hp 496 big block for $8K
http://www.vortecproperformance.com/eng ... tions.html
and thats hardly the only option
http://www.scoggindickey.com/?http://www.sdparts.com

http://www.herbertcams.com/dhp-555-stre ... ine-675hp/
 
Its all expensive right now John.
No way around it unless you run the engine as is bone stock.
Rounding up parts for my '71 GTO 455 build also.
Many I had put away new. Other projects abandoned.
Fleabay New has saved $$.
Summit Racing always good to me also.
All Fleabay parts purchased came in last few days.
Order my Piston Rings I want next week.
Soon.


:mrgreen:
 
I think You have the same AEM Wideband coming that I have John.
Have to check the # on mine.
They are Super Accurate the AEM Widebands.
You will Love It.
A quick glance & its always readible even in dark nightime driving.
Super fast transient response time . One of the Best.
 
I know there is no replacement for displacement. But you also have to remember not building a 1/4 mile king here. The engine is almost to where I want it spec'd out. Hate to say it soon enough it gets expensive. Coil overs, rebuildable shocks, allot of welding and fabrication. Again same deal grumpy could get there faster and cheaper with a used vette but for me it is all about the build. Along with whats learned along the way. Grumpy you have helped me a great deal giving me knowledge to make educated decisions on what parts to buy and why. Along with other tips techniques and learn something every day.

The AEM 30-4110 is the new replacement for the 30-4100 just uses the bosch 4.9 instead of the 4.3. I need it for my ecu and to tune my carb while I buy my parts for the stealth ram setup. The next attack is the fuel system found a site that has cheap prices on the walbro 255lph and the aermotive regulator I have spec'd out. I may look local for some one to build me a custom cell so I can go intank pump and give fuel lines more protection. I am not sure how I gonna do the fill yet.

I am waiting to hear back from Lance Nist the designer of the ecu I have. I should be able to run an 8 coil setup similar to the LS. Make timing changes a key punch away. Love the complexity and tuning options. Allot of different theories I have been doing my home work in my spare time. If I can't be working on my car I am studying my modifications. Planning plotting my next move. I think I am turning into a mad scientist. Lol
 

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Well Had a nice 1/2 hour talk with Lance Nist yesterday over at Pantera EFI and he went over my build with me. I told him my short term goals and long term goals for my system. He has allot of the products I am going to need for more than fair price.

The ecu I picked up is a crank sensor model 2 bar designed for turbo or supercharged usage. It can be used for NA but some adjustment need to be made with the settings.

He stated the best place to start would be the reluctor wheel and crank sensor along with the coils because they will need the most fabrication as far as mounting in the system. I like the fact he took the time to help me knowing I am doing a slow build and even letting him know the budget and plan of attack I am on for the build. You can tell he loves what he does and prefers a personal approach to his business. All my emails have been answered back give me a call and every call has been full of information and knowledge that comes from building and designing efi systems from before I was born. I had originally thought I was gonna run a d585 ls coil but the ecu has coil drivres built into it so they would not be a good choice for this application. I will be running a 58x reluctor style trigger wheel off the crank such as they have in the ls series engines. I also will be running a cam sensor off a distributor drive. I need to keep a distributor drive in order to turn the oil pump. I also discussed upgrading to a turbo setup down the road and he was very useful on information he provided. We discussed fuel pumps and I had asked him about the Walbro 255lph he stated he sells one for about twice the amount like $165 but is billet and is setup to cool the motor with the fuel. I would explain more but don't want to mislead his product as I do not know the exact details on it but you will all get to see is products as I use them I will take pictures.

I am very excited to work with Lance on this he after doing allot of research on him and this system I am quite impressed. He was one of the original founders of electromotive and did allot of development that lead to the engine systems we all have today. The man knows his stuff and is still excited to work with it to this day!!!! That is one of the main reasons I am gonna take his advise and use his products. He is about the American way he knows what he is doing and has proven himself and his products. I feel his customer service aproach is very personalized and he stands behind his products. If you ever get bored go over efi101 and read some of his posts under pantera efi. There are some great topics as far as EFI goes and some interesting theories.
 
I found these in my engine along with three flat lobes to match them I will get some pics of the lobes the next time I go to the garage my car is at.
Well I have the cam out and the new one placed in along with the lifters in the holes. I have ran into a problem though I cannot get my spring retainers loose I tried pressurizing the cylinder no good just opens it up. I can feel the valve touch the piston and then I stop pushing I don't want to damage a valve or piston and ideas please.
 

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Strictly Attitude said:
.... I have ran into a problem though I cannot get my spring retainers loose I tried pressurizing the cylinder no good just opens it up. I can feel the valve touch the piston and then I stop pushing I don't want to damage a valve or piston and ideas please.

thats very common and very easily cured, spray the keepers with carburetor cleaner or throttle body cleaner let sit for at least 3 minutes then drop a few drops of a good penetrating oil on the keepers then get out a deep well 5/8" socket with a 6" extension , center the socket over the valve stem and give it 3-5 good solid hard whacks in rapid succession on the end of the extension with a plastic mallet , then use a valve spring compressor to remove the locks,(btw place a large magnet like this on the compressor fork arms as it tends to grab the loose keepers)and a face shield in case a spring shatter's or some thing breaks under spring pressure is a good idea


YES YOU NEED TO SPEND THE $5 for this tool it constantly gets used
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DC6DIA
DC6DIAL.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/soft-face- ... 69048.html
malletpa.jpg

mor-62370.jpg

so have a big dead blow mallet handy.
18196a.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-neon- ... 41800.html
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=10409&p=43176&hilit=valve+spring+compressor#p43176
face1.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable ... 46526.html
http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=15607.0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsGqmOQus6Y

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0801 ... e_springs/
 
Might be a good idea John to drop the oil pan.
All that cast iron had to go somewhere.
Likely find in bottom of pan as fine oil sludge dust.
Check all main & rod bearings.
Can be done in the car on your back.
Stay motivated. Not discouraged.
 
.Its because they took the zinc out of the oil John.
Stupid Tree Huggen Liberals.
I hate them likewise .

Roller Cams have a very High Failure rate too.
Even in street performance.
Especially Racing.
Engine gets destroyed in seconds.
Hundreds of tiny needle bearings flying around and Bombarding the entire bottom end....
Why Grumpy uses those Rare Earth magnets everywhere.

I am using ISKY Hyd in my 71 455 GTO also.
Saving Gracee was my engine sat during the removal of Zinc from motor oils in 1990's to today.
Think it sat since 1979-'80.

Using A premium oil in mine & Zinc Additive.
Still cost effective for my HP & TORQUE GOALS.
Won't cost $2k in Roller cam, lifters, valvesprings, ect.
 
I found Vavoline VR-1 Race 20w50 local. Decent price.
Likely use to break my Cam in.
Then switch to 10w30 of my choice with aftermarket Zinc additive ZDDP.
After 100-200 miles switch to 10w30 Synthetic of personal liking. Also use ZDDP every oil change.
 
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