My S10 ZR2 build

I believe the oil sender you reference is actually a switch tied into a Camaro's electric fuel pump circuit.
 
Either way this port supplies oil pressure but I do believe that you're correct, it is part of the fueling circuit.
 
Another thing I'm trying to work out is the breather assembly. I can do a quick and dirty one like in the first pic but this keeps it exposed to under hood temps and there's the noise factor too. I thought about moving it outside the engine compartment and down by my engine skid plate. It would be more exposed to the elements this way though. It's pretty hard to make something work in these tight confines of the engine compartment. I like it down lower out of the engine compartment but I may have to raise it up more and place it behind the front bumper. Just trying out different scenarios right now.
 

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If you are going to drive this in all kinds of weather, then I just don't see it working down there is front
of the skid plate. Even if it's only dry weather, the bugs will collect on the front half of the air cleaner.
 
Another thing I'm trying to work out is the breather assembly. I can do a quick and dirty one like in the first pic but this keeps it exposed to under hood temps and there's the noise factor too. I thought about moving it outside the engine compartment and down by my engine skid plate. It would be more exposed to the elements this way though. It's pretty hard to make something work in these tight confines of the engine compartment. I like it down lower out of the engine compartment but I may have to raise it up more and place it behind the front bumper. Just trying out different scenarios right now.
The best place to pull air from is the inner fender on Chevy Trucks.
Make a Deflector plate to wrap around the Cone K&N air filter 3/4 circumfrance.
Tuned Port 350 Tpi engines draw in a max of 625-650 cfm of air.
Proven in the past in the C4 Corvette World.
Option 1 is most viable shown under the hood.
Placing it back by the firewall is a good place on a Race Car in the past with a 5 inch high rise cowl induction fiberglass race hood.
 
I would rethink the filter under the skid plate! Jeep expects contact there so would I! How about one of those snorkel scoops that run along the windshield?
 
I'd thought about running it inside the wheel well but I thought it would collect too much "stuff" on it getting thrown up by the tire . As far as the skid plate goes I wouldn't leave it exposed, I'd try to enclose the front portion, like a deflector of sorts with swiss cheese holes in it to let more air through. I really don't like the idea of it hanging down like that though. JH, I was looking at the snorkel type today that jeeps use! I just don't see how I could make one work for this rig. I've was also looking at the fender mounted intakes like some of the jeeps use instead of the snorkel ones. Maybe I can figure out a way to enclose the filter in a tube mounted to the radiator support. There's a nice big hole about 3 inches in diameter right behind where the light mounts. It would be turbulent air but I think that it could work. I'll have to play with it some more tomorrow and see if I have any epiphanies.
 
71E17F0C-14F3-405B-80F6-D8A3579524D0.jpeg Take cold air from the cowl. You will notice how ‘67 and ‘68 Z/28 air cleaner snorkel is plumbed into the passenger side cowl. The S10 has the same space and dimensions and Summit Racing had a kit you could build to fit like the old Z’s.
 
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Opps! Even easier now, what about attachment of some intercooler tubing from the throttle body to the cowl?
 
If it was a aircleaner housing, I even forgot about the later C3 with the cowl feed - that’s one of the many features of no sleep for 30 hrs.:eek:
 
Brian, are you going to church this early or did you just get in from partying?:p
Power is off at the Farmhouse.
Main 144 KV Power lines run on edge of my property.
Main town down the road is out.
Across the Highway Farmers have Lights on.
Lost 1 phase of Power.

So much for EV all Electric reliability.
Can not recharge vehicle batteries if Power is offline.
 
No generator?
Have one but it's 5500 watts at 220 VAC. 6500 watts Peak.
10 Hp Briggs OVH single cylinder.
Coleman brand.
No Tranfer switch.
It was about 3 years ago I last used it.
Power was out.
I prewired into the electric clothes drier.
Unplug the Drier. Plug in the Generator there.
Worked great.
Toilet flushed. The well kicked on and loaded the Generator down
Generator struggled hard on the Governor WOT.
Every Single CFL light in the House blew up. Sparks and lighting.
Back EMF from the Well pump motor windings that is 5 Hp sized.
Apparently Several Henry's the Well pump motor windings.
Went in the Dark again.
Shut The Well off .
Main breaker was already off.
Started generator again and Ok.
House Furnace powered.

Need a bigger generator.
For the Well alone it needs to 8 KV + about 5 k for rest of house.
Big Gen sets are expensive and huge.

Looked at US Military Diesel Gen sets used.
Maybe.

PTO tractor Generator 30kV to 50 Kv looks best . Use my 1952 Allis Tractor.
Used on Dairy Farms.
Goid Transfer switch for entire house $500-1000 too.
Need $$$$.
 
I have the same size generator and I do the same thing for the hookup (instead of the dryer receptical I installed a 220 line in my garage for my welder) but I don’t have any problems. It powers our well pump, sewage pump, big frig, TV, fans for the propane heater, most every light is LED adapted.
 
I have the same size generator and I do the same thing for the hookup (instead of the dryer receptical I installed a 220 line in my garage for my welder) but I don’t have any problems. It powers our well pump, sewage pump, big frig, TV, fans for the propane heater, most every light is LED adapted.
Still Dangerous.
Transfer switch is the safe way.
During one of the FEMA disaster on site help I read the Government supplied 220 VAC plug ins for portable generators.
You removed the round house power meter and plug in the FEMA Unit.
Isolated from main line power in case a lineman was around working or power turned back on.
 
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