My S10 ZR2 build

PTO gen set would be good and better with transfer switch. I have one that runs with a 20hp B/S engine that is mounted on a trailer now. 8000 watts running--9250 surge and it will power all I have.

Kinda like the generator/welders you see with the enclosures around them, just home made.
 
Still playing with the air cleaner. Moved it behind the front bumper, pics attached. This would move it out of the engine compartment, add some protection for it and still allow it to get air through the bumper. It's turned to the outside of the vehicle somewhat so that the wide side of the filter is exposed to air coming through an opening in the bumper. I'm liking this scenario.
 

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This is a side view of the bumper opening that will let air through to the filter. Another possible scenario is to run some sort of duct across the top of the TPI setup to the cowl area. If you look at the intake ducting there is a 3" hole in the top portion of the duct that was initially for the silencer (homeplate is what is referred to as by Caprice 9C1 owners). There's a white plug in it right now. A person could use that spot to incorporate a duct but you'd have a heck of a time incorporating the MAF sensor into the mix. I'm not real sure that the Intake Air Temperature sensor wouldn't have to be moved either since it's installed in the intake ducting as well.
 

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Changed my mind, again. Think I'll stick with the original tube with the air cleaner in the engine compartment. Maybe later on I'll move it down through the inner fender and behind the bumper, I just need to keep things simple for the time being and do up grades later.

One thing I'm trying to figure out is the oil hookups. The original engine used an oil adapter that mounted to the engine block where a standard filter normally goes. I replaced this with an offset adapter for clearance because it moves the filter next to the oil pan. This adapter also had a provision for routing the oil to a cooler. Instead of a cooler I want to run lines to the stock remote oil filter that's mounted under the radiator support, doubling my filtration since the one on the block is small. The offset adapter on the engine block has ports marked in and out (see pic, offset 1). The remote filter (pic 2) shows the ports on it labeled in and out. What I'm going to do is run a line from the offset adapter on the engine blocks "out" port to the "in" port on the remote unit under the radiator support and from it's "out" port to the "in" port on the offet adapter on the block. Anybody see anything wrong with doing this?
 

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Changed my mind, again. Think I'll stick with the original tube with the air cleaner in the engine compartment. Maybe later on I'll move it down through the inner fender and behind the bumper, I just need to keep things simple for the time being and do up grades later.

One thing I'm trying to figure out is the oil hookups. The original engine used an oil adapter that mounted to the engine block where a standard filter normally goes. I replaced this with an offset adapter for clearance because it moves the filter next to the oil pan. This adapter also had a provision for routing the oil to a cooler. Instead of a cooler I want to run lines to the stock remote oil filter that's mounted under the radiator support, doubling my filtration since the one on the block is small. The offset adapter on the engine block has ports marked in and out (see pic, offset 1). The remote filter (pic 2) shows the ports on it labeled in and out. What I'm going to do is run a line from the offset adapter on the engine blocks "out" port to the "in" port on the remote unit under the radiator support and from it's "out" port to the "in" port on the offet adapter on the block. Anybody see anything wrong with doing this?
You can do it that way if you want to .
I see it as a waste of time & effort.
All You need is A Premium single K&N Or Wix Racing Oil Filter.
Its not a High RPM Race Engine.
It will Rev Less actually than it did stock the Vortech 350 because you installed a Corvette Tuned Port EFI with 21 inch long runners from the throttle body entrance to the backside of each intake valve.
I like Tuned ports on the street because they pull strong & clean & get real nice MPG.
Come Street drag race time against modern muscle your going to Loose the race no matter what you do with a TPI or FIRST-1st TPI.
Engine needs to Rev 6500-8500 rpms to Beat Dodge.
 
The oil filter adapter I'm using is from an LT1 cop car that came with the oil cooler provision. I'm using it because it offsets the oil filter right next to my oil pan which gives me room for the front differential yoke, it's tight but it works. I would have preferred to use one from a Corvette which doesn't have the cooler provision and would do the same thing. In order to use the one I have I either had to do away with the cooler provision or incorporate it into the oiling system. I decided to use the cooler provision to run the oil to an additional remote filter since the filter is so small on the one on the block, this will effectively let me have more filtration. I've included some pics of the oil filter on the block, it's 3 1/4" long x 3 inch diameter, lots smaller than a PF45 filter. The remote one is a 3" diameter and is 4 3/8" long. Together the two of them should give me more filtration than I would have had with a standard filter.
 

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After reading all this information on oiling systems my head is swimming. It seems that the systems that have side by side oil filters, one is a high efficiency bypass oil filter and one is a full flow. I'm not following what's going on there. Is the oil just running through the first filter mount and there is no bypass valve involved? Then the second full flow filter mount has the bypass?
 
Together the two of them should give me more filtration than I would have had with a standard filter.
I understand why the remote filter, my questions is about why mount it all the way up front and not on
the inner finder or firewall? The longer the lines the bigger the pressure drop. I could only come up with
cooling for the reason for going that far, but wanted to know your reason.
 
I'm forced to point out the oil cooler or trans fluid transfer line internal cross sectional area has a potential effect on flow resistance and efficiency,
if you select 1/2" or AN#8 lines they are large enough in cross sectional area too make the transfer line size and length basically non-restrictive.
Id also suggest selecting the longer length, dual oil filters mounted vertically in a rather easy to access area of your choice making replacement easy and less likely to be a messy process.
the longer length oil filters, pleated filtration medium, provide much greater surface area for filtration reducing the flow restriction.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ubing-fuel-lines-and-flaring.1030/#post-35905

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ion-remote-filter-flow-rate.14621/#post-78235

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thoughts-on-cooling.149/#post-70002

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/transmission-over-temp.12832/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...il-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-3620

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...il-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-3620

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I understand why the remote filter, my questions is about why mount it all the way up front and not on
the inner finder or firewall? The longer the lines the bigger the pressure drop. I could only come up with
cooling for the reason for going that far, but wanted to know your reason.
It's where the oil filter was mounted on S10 Blazer Pre Vortech Era.
Done that way I recall on 4x4 models.
 
The oil filter adapter I'm using is from an LT1 cop car that came with the oil cooler provision. I'm using it because it offsets the oil filter right next to my oil pan which gives me room for the front differential yoke, it's tight but it works.

index.php


That is a nice problem solver right there!
 
Indycars, there is no other place to mount a filter other than to have it hanging off the side off a frame rail in these trucks. I do agree with Grumpy's statement about it being a mess when changing filters but that's the way it goes sometimes. I'm looking for alternatives to the mount under the radiator support but I'm not seeing a lot of alternatives. That's probably why the factory placed it where they did.
 
Still working on different scenarios for the breather setup. This is the latest and greatest. This will allow me to get some outside air in hopefully without sucking in hot under hood air as much. I've got another option to try out also that I've never seen done but I'm going to have to figure out how to incorporate the MAF sensor into the mix.
 

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Still working on different scenarios for the breather setup. This is the latest and greatest. This will allow me to get some outside air in hopefully without sucking in hot under hood air as much. I've got another option to try out also that I've never seen done but I'm going to have to figure out how to incorporate the MAF sensor into the mix.
Have you given thought any to EFI Tuning ?
I ask because it's a sequentional fuel injected engine a Vortech 350 Vin code R.
Using a Tuned Port intake that was batch fire injected.
The Credits for Hp tuners is $900.00.
You buy 3 times or ability to tune 3 seperate vehicles.
Don't think it will run right as is present.
 
I'm going to switch my PCM over to the 0411 unit from a 01 GMC Savanah van instead of the black box that's currently in my truck. I'll have to have the VIN from my truck put in, axle ratio and tire size changed and some other items. I've got my schematics for the transferred wiring portion of it. I'll get someone with EFI Live, Tech II or HP Tuners to do the changes for me as the base tune for the v8 is already there as well as the tables for the 4L60e trans. I'm going to try and locate a tuning suite and do the work myself or pay to have it done. The 0411 PCM is a lot faster and more tunable unit than the PCM currently used in my truck and is used in the later model S10 as well as other trucks/vans. The Vortec engine employs a spider setup that uses poppet valves, one for each port but they have their problems and are not a good reliable system. I want something that I can change injector size on easily and doesn't have the issues the poppet system has, plus I like the look of the external injectors. I'll reuse my 4.3 fuel injection harness, re-pin for the injectors and add the two additional wires for the v8 that the v6 doesn't have and add two hot wires for the injectors. The only thing extra you have to do is remove the spider injector connector and re-terminate/splice in regular injector connectors that match the injector you are using in the TPI setup. I used intrepid fans also. I should be able to have a segment swap from a Camaro put in to control them also. While I'm in there I'll add the tow/haul option also if it's missing since it's an alternate table for the transmission that changes line pressure and shift points.
 
I'm going to switch my PCM over to the 0411 unit from a 01 GMC Savanah van instead of the black box that's currently in my truck. I'll have to have the VIN from my truck put in, axle ratio and tire size changed and some other items. I've got my schematics for the transferred wiring portion of it. I'll get someone with EFI Live, Tech II or HP Tuners to do the changes for me as the base tune for the v8 is already there as well as the tables for the 4L60e trans. I'm going to try and locate a tuning suite and do the work myself or pay to have it done. The 0411 PCM is a lot faster and more tunable unit than the PCM currently used in my truck and is used in the later model S10 as well as other trucks/vans. The Vortec engine employs a spider setup that uses poppet valves, one for each port but they have their problems and are not a good reliable system. I want something that I can change injector size on easily and doesn't have the issues the poppet system has, plus I like the look of the external injectors. I'll reuse my 4.3 fuel injection harness, re-pin for the injectors and add the two additional wires for the v8 that the v6 doesn't have and add two hot wires for the injectors. The only thing extra you have to do is remove the spider injector connector and re-terminate/splice in regular injector connectors that match the injector you are using in the TPI setup. I used intrepid fans also. I should be able to have a segment swap from a Camaro put in to control them also. While I'm in there I'll add the tow/haul option also if it's missing since it's an alternate table for the transmission that changes line pressure and shift points.
OK.
Its winter here in Illinois.
Daily Driving my 1999 Chevy Tahoe 4x4. It has the 350 Vortech "R" vin engine. So I am very familiar with it.

Save the main final tuned EFI Program on a Long life Flash card so you have it always. Just in case.
 
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