Need Help With Hydro Assist Brakes

Unforgiven

Unforgiven

solid fixture here in the forum
I am having a hard time with bleeding this system.
I am working with a 2004 chevy 2500 HD with a 6.0 engine.
This is a truck that I have completly removed all of the original suspension, and replaced it with a custom straight axle 4 link set-up.
The brake lines were disconnected from the calipers and at the rear junction block in the rear.
Truck has sat with no lines connected for about a year, so all the fluids have drained. This was foreseen.
last week I reconnected the lines to the new calipers up front and capped the rear at the old divider block
that was mounted on the old axle, that split and went to each drum.
The new rear axle has been debraked and is awaiting a new disk set-up in the future, This is the reason
I have capped them off.

THIS IS A STRICKLY OFFROAD MUD TRUCK AND WILL NEVER SEE PAVEMENT AGAIN

New to me is this style off master brake cylinder which has the power steering line plumbed into it.

I am trying to bleed the system and get the front brakes working. I have filled the master and tried to gravity bleed into the calipers with no success. I have tried adding fluid in a jar, then attaching a clear tube to the bleeder and pump the brake pedal. This has at least pushed some of the air out of the line and caliper, but
I still can't get a solid stream of fluid out of them. The pedal will in no way even try to harden up, it goes straight to the floor, and has resistance coming back up.
I refilled the reservoir and actually tried to blow into it to create some small pressure, then release the pressure.
This actually let bubbles purge out of the bottom of the cylinder. I repeated this until all bubbles were gone.
I then removed a plug from the rear line and tried to gravity bleed, A small amount of air was bubbling out the end for a bit but then it stopped. I let it gravity feed for about 1/2 hour but nothing was flowing.

I tried to pump the pedal and still nothing.

I was wondering if the ABS box is giving me problems with the bleeding proccess?
I can remove it all together, but I would really not want to deal with the removal proccess unless absolutly
neccesary.

Another thought I have had is to start the engine...maybe the power steering has something to do with assisting the brake pressure? I am not sure...as I have never dealt with this type of booster.

Are there any suggestions out there as to what I may be doing wrong?
 
It may be the hold and release solenoids malfunctioned are stuck open in the ABS Module.
Not likely.

I think the Master Cylinder failed.
Get a new one from Napa, O'Reilley Auto, Advanced Auto parts, Or AutoZone the zoo Unforgiven.
Bench bleed the Master Cylinder on a vice.
You can do it on the truck also bolted up depressing the brake pedal.
See How it is afterwards with the New master cylinder installed.
 
Can a master cylinder go bad from just sitting?
Before I spend this guys money I would like to exhaust all options first. Maybe I should try to bench bleed this master first?
I thought maybe by pressurizing and releasing the pressure in the reservoir would burp most if not all air in the master, but
at this point in time I am willing to buy some plugs and line to bleed it.

If It is indeed the ABS unit... I can bypass it easy enough.

I feel dumb here guys.... I have never ran into this scenario before.
On a positive note though.... The new power steering pump and full hydraulic orbit valve and 2 1/2" bore cylinder bled perfect.
I can turn those large 44" tires in the dirt with my pinky finger while sitting in Park.
 
Unforgiven said:
Can a master cylinder go bad from just sitting?
Before I spend this guys money I would like to exhaust all options first. Maybe I should try to bench bleed this master first?
I thought maybe by pressurizing and releasing the pressure in the reservoir would burp most if not all air in the master, but
at this point in time I am willing to buy some plugs and line to bleed it.

If It is indeed the ABS unit... I can bypass it easy enough.

I feel dumb here guys.... I have never ran into this scenario before.
On a positive note though.... The new power steering pump and full hydraulic orbit valve and 2 1/2" bore cylinder bled perfect.
I can turn those large 44" tires in the dirt with my pinky finger while sitting in Park.
Click to expand...
I have seen it Before Unforgiven.
Time sitting unused driven or raced.
I think the seals dried up on the brake master cylinder.
What you stated described all points to the Master cylinder.

Race cars and Race Trucks And Hotrods are like Woman....High maintenance Love when needed.
Service Them !
 
Dang!!! That certainly is a possibility that the seals dried. :(
I will look at it again tonight. I have to deliver this truck Sunday.
I will post some pics of it and the work I have done to it on this thread.
My Understanding is that he is taking it to have some body work done after I am done with building the suspension.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Race cars and Race Trucks And Hotrods are like Woman....High maintenance Love when needed.
Service Them !
Click to expand...

It's a rough life.... but someone has to do it! I like to volunteer my services when needed.. I am always open to charity work too!
But that genuine offer has only gotten me more trucks to service...no women!
 
Should blow moisture from lines and bench bleed master FIRST before installing anything. Master setting up will rust inside from humidity and cut seals or just be stuck.
 
T-Test said:
Should blow moisture from lines and bench bleed master FIRST before installing anything. Master setting up will rust inside from humidity and cut seals or just be stuck.
Click to expand...
He
T-Test said:
Should blow moisture from lines and bench bleed master FIRST before installing anything. Master setting up will rust inside from humidity and cut seals or just be stuck.
Click to expand...
Could Try bench bleeding the old master cylinder if it fails take it apart.
Just 1 Cir Clip snap ring holds the Master Cylinder piston in.

Remaned master is pretty low cost on old cars and trucks.
$10 -40 bucks.
Only expensive for a Corvette.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the input guys... I am going to try and see if I can't bleed the master tonight.
 
Well I got the brakes working! Jimmy came over and I had him jump up in the truck and push the brakes. Nothing.....So I had him start the engine and push the pedal.. and WOW!... I found the problem.
There was a fitting that was spraying fluid to the ground. I could not see it when I was by myself. After tightening the fitting the pedal started getting harder. I'm glad it was something simple!

I installed a flush mount ART CARR Sidewinder shifter for the 4l80e trans, rechecked all my work and loaded it onto the trailer and delivered it to his house.
I am the "worlds greatest uncle today" :)

It was a big job to build the suspension but ... he learned a few things along the way.

I snapped some pics of it while it was loaded on the trailer for you men.
 

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well no ones likely to think its un-impressive thats for sure
 
Thanks Grumpy... I did not want to talk about it to much because this is not the right forum for it. But I did not think anyone would mind seeing a SAS "straight axle swap" conversion.

He is so dang happy with it, his smile was from ear to ear when we test drove it .

Personally.... It is a bit to tall for me. But it is not my truck.
 
Unforgiven said:
I installed a flush mount ART CARR Sidewinder shifter for the 4l80e trans
Click to expand...
Nice work, glad you found the problem.

Thanks for mentioning the shifter, I've been looking for one with are rear exit cable! Why do
you call it Art Carr...... It seems to be made by Maverick?
 
pictures and info, your impressions,on its use,
and links on purchasing the shifter ,
would be appreciated!:D
 
Sorry grumpy...
https://www.polyperformance.com/art-carr-winters-shifter


I love the simplicity of the shifter. I had purchased the one with a consol for my 87 chevy truck. My intent was to mount it to the trans tunnel but it was still to short for a pickup truck.
so I custom made a frame for it to sit on.
It shifts very easy, and there is no way that you can go passed the next gear without sliding the shifter sideways into the next slot.
index.php



On My nephews 2004 chevy truck.... I purchased the flush mount style because his truck already has a consol.
I just sent him a text and asked for a pic so it might be a bit.

What I did was remove the cup holder and made a plate that screwed down in it's place. I cut a rectangular hole in the plate so the shifter would slip in and the plastic side plates on the shifter
screwed down to the plate. here is a pic of the cup holer removed and the center consol box removed for access.
IMG_0409.JPG
 
That might work, what was the cost for that shifter?

Now that I have a better governor, it shifts much closer to the correct rpm. But I still need to check
exactly what my shift points are? One more thing I need to do in long list of projects. Right now I'm
working on finishing my fastener organization project that got put on hold until after the TBucket
Nationals. Trying to get my bench back open for work.

FastenerOrganization_01225.jpg
.
 
Hey Rick..
I called darn near everyone in the nation and that flush mount shifter for a 4L80E is on back order. Average price is $234

Then I got ahold of a man named
SCOTT MORRIS
812-623-3473
SUNFIRE OFF-ROAD
126 EASTERN AVE.
SUNMAN IN 47041

He does have a website.
He said the same thing about that particular mount... its on back order.
But.... He told me that he could put one together for me. He would just remove the consol off a new shifter and install the optional side plates (you can buy these to change your shifter if you already own the consol shifter
and want to convert it to a flush mount).
He had it out and in the mail and I recieved it in two days! He only charged me $225

He saved the day for me and I e-mailed him back to let him know I was thankful that he went out of his way for me.
I told him I would spread the word about his company.

I hope that is OK by Grumpy...Not sure about the rule on that.
 
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