New Radiator Core

Indycars

Indycars

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Staff member
My radiator has always had a problem with leaking in the upper left corner. I can get it
fixed, but then in a few weeks it's leaking again. I've had it fixed 4-5 times now and it
does the same thing every time.

So I had the core replaced at a local shop here in town for $580. This core is the same
size, but should cool considerably better with the louvered fins that the other core did
not have. Now the other core had no problems cooling my engine and this new core does
to, so it's hard to say if it cools better. Today it's 92° F and the engine is running 175°

RadiatorFinsLouvered01.jpg
RadiatorFinsLouvered02.jpg
 
You could try soldering it yourself Rick.
Perhaps the Upper and Lower tanks are time stressed fatigued.

Try a lower PSI Setpoint radiator cap.
 
There is Bars stopleak.
Also Morosp Block and radiator sealer made for water and antifreeze mix.
 
chromebumpers said:
I can't believe you said that Brian LOl. Isn't that just a bandaid for some roadside emergency or if the car is a beater?
Click to expand...
I said it.
T-bucket parts are expensive.
Rick has the T-bucket Ford Radiator .
1923-31 Vintage
 
Lately the weather has been in the 60s°F and the car will only get to 145-150°F.

I wonder if the high flow thermostat of 180°F, flows more when it's closed than a normal
thermostat. I suppose that could be causing it to run colder than it should. I'm about done
with driving the car this year, since it getting too cold now.
.
 
THE SECRET to a good solder seal, on a radiator joint, is a totally clean metal (FAIRLY THICK COPPER) surface and the correct solder alloy for the application
most aluminum radiators are EPOXY SEALED NOT WELDED,(yes the better versions are welded)
the problem here is that acid dips to clean the surface with alkaloid dips for PH stabilization and raid steam cleaning of metal surfaces followed by use of , lead acid, or silver solder either makes the EPA and OSHA nuts or its darn expensive.
aluminum is an acceptable but not the best quality substitute, as it rapidly metal fatigues and its difficult to weld if corroded
copper is TWICE AS THERMALLY CONDUCTIVE as aluminum
tube2.jpg


what I find absolutely amazing is the number of people that have ordered replacement radiators ,
without accurately measuring the original radiator, and then accurately, measuring, the space its seated been in,
and the distance available in front of the O.E.M radiator and behind that original radiator,
if you want too select and install a thicker, more efficient heat transfer core, aftermarket radiator
thats thicker has more fins and surface area and larger coolant flow tubes.
one fact often over looked is that radiator designs vary wildly, and the number of fins per inch of surface area and width of radiator coolant flow tubes can significantly increase or decrease thermal heat transfer efficiency., fin counts vary from 8 to 22 fins per inch on various radiator designs Ive seen.
thus a radiator might measure say 18" tall by 24" wide but depending on design, and fin and tube count, might actually have a radically more or less efficient heat transfer rate.
rads1.jpg

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html

http://www.caparadiator.com/aluminumvscopper.html

http://www.cgj.com/2013/07/16/aluminum-vs-copper-brass-radiator-final-thoughts/
 
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