new rebuilt engine smoking a bit

[grumpyvette]

If its the rings not completely seated on a new build like it appears to be, or if the rings were not properly installed ,if your getting a bit of oil smoke at idle, on a new rebuilt engine, thats rather common for the first few minutes before the parts lap in, and oil that got into the combustion chamber during assembly burns off, and rings and valves seat so don,t panic, ASSUMING the rings were installed correctly with the proper end gaps and the correct clearances, and the ends of the rings were stoned to remove burrs and the correct side facing upward, the exhaust smoke should be reduced if you seat/lap in, the rings to the cylinder walls,and that's best done by rapid repeated accelerating the car under load for repeated brief periods, Id suggest accelerating and then de-accelerating from about idle up to about 4500-5000rpm in each gear at about 3/4 throttle for about 20-30 minutes to completely seat the rings then do an oil change.
if that doesn,t reduce the exhaust smoke (IT SHOULD NOTICEABLY) then the valve seals might need to be replaced (even if new, as they may be defective or improperly installed
it also could also be an indicator that the valve spring retainers lower surface at full valve lift are contacting the valve seals upper surface, if the spring to guide clearance was not checked carefully , if that occurs the seals will be damaged and won,t function correctly


IM suggesting you drive the car under constantly changing RPMS and loads to lap in the parts, for 20-30 minutes to get the components mated,
your rings and cam,lifters,rockers, bearings etc should lap in very rapidly in the first few minutes but it takes 10-20 minutes run time on most cars for the break-in process to wear in the component clearances almost completely, and if youve ever monitored the engine heat generated it tends to start dropping off after about 20-30 minutes, indicating the component friction levels have stabilized and lube flow is being maintained in MOST break-in procedures

http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetr ... gTech.aspx


https://www.enginelabs.com/news/for... From EngineLabs com!&utm_campaign=EL 4/17/24

 

[grumpyvette]

Suggestions for Proper Engine Break-In

Whenever an engine's piston rings are replaced whether in part or in entirety it is necessary to break in the engine. Piston rings are replaced at a complete engine overhaul or repair, top overhaul or single cylinder overhaul or repair.

When we refer to engine or cylinder break in, we are talking about the physical mating of the engine's piston rings to it's corresponding cylinder wall. That is, we want to physically wear the new piston rings into the cylinder wall until a compatible seal between the two is achieved.

Proper engine break in will produce an engine that achieves maximum power output with the least amount of oil consumption due to the fact that the piston rings have seated properly to the cylinder wall. When the piston rings are broken in or seated, they do not allow combustion gases to escape the combustion chamber past the piston rings into the crankcase section of the engine. This lack of "blow-by" keeps your engine running cleaner and cooler by preventing hot combustion gases and by-products from entering the crankcase section of the engine. Excessive "blow-by" will cause the crankcase section of the engine to become pressurized and contaminated with combustion gases, which in turn will force normal oil vapors out of the engine's breather, causing the engine to consume excessive amounts of oil. In addition to sealing combustion gases in the combustion chamber, piston rings must also manage the amount of oil present on the cylinder walls for lubrication. If the rings do not seat properly, they cannot perform this function and will allow excessive amounts of oil to accumulate on the cylinder wall surfaces. This oil is burned each and every time the cylinder fires. The burning of this oil, coupled with "blow-by" induced engine breathing, are reasons that an engine that hasn't been broken in will consume more than its share of oil.

When a cylinder is overhauled or repaired the surface of it's walls are honed with abrasive stones to produce a rough surface that will help wear the piston rings in. This roughing up of the surface is known as "cross-hatching". A cylinder wall that has been properly "cross hatched" has a series of minute peaks and valleys cut into its surface. The face or portion of the piston ring that interfaces with the cross hatched cylinder wall is tapered to allow only a small portion of the ring to contact the honed cylinder wall. When the engine is operated, the tapered portion of the face of the piston ring rubs against the coarse surface of the cylinder wall causing wear on both objects. At the point where the top of the peaks produced by the honing operation become smooth and the tapered portion of the piston ring wears flat break in has occurred.

When the engine is operating, a force known as Break Mean Effective Pressure or B.M.E.P is generated within the combustion chamber. B.M.E.P. is the resultant force produced from the controlled burning of the fuel air mixture that the engine runs on. The higher the power setting the engine is running at, the higher the B.M.E.P. is and conversely as the power setting is lowered the B.M.E.P. becomes less.

B.M.E.P is an important part of the break in process. When the engine is running, B.M.E.P. is present in the cylinder behind the piston rings and it's force pushes the piston ring outward against the coarse honed cylinder wall. The higher the B.M.E.P, the harder the piston ring is pushed against the wall. The surface temperature at the piston ring face and cylinder wall interface will be greater with high B.M.E.P. than with low B.M.E.P. This is because we are pushing the ring harder against the rough cylinder wall surface causing high amounts of friction and thus heat. The primary deterrent of break in is this heat. Allowing to much heat to build up at the ring to cylinder wall interface will cause the lubricating oil that is present to break down and glaze the cylinder wall surface. This glaze will prevent any further seating of the piston rings. If glazing is allowed to happen break in will never occur. We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. If glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.

Understanding what happens in the engine during break in allows us to comprehend the ideas behind how we should operate the engine after piston rings have been changed. The normal prescribed flight procedure after ring replacement is to keep ground running to a minimum, take off at full power and reduce to climb power at the first available safe altitude, all while keeping the climb angle flat and the climb airspeed higher to promote the best cooling possible. At cruise altitude we should use 65% to 75% power and run the engine richer then normal. At all times we are to remember that heat is the greatest enemy of engine break in, we should try to maintain all engine temperatures in the green, well away from the top of the green arc or red line. This means step climbing the aircraft if necessary, operating with the cowl flaps open or in trail position during cruise flight and being generous with the fuel allocation for the engine. We should not run the engine above 75% power in cruise flight because the B.M.E.P is too great and the likelihood of glazing increases. As you can see, keeping the engine as cool as is practical and at a conducive power setting is the best combination for successful engine break in.

After an engine is overhauled or has a major repair it is run in a test cell to ensure operating characteristics and to begin the break in process. However this process may take as long as 100 hours of operation to complete. You, the pilot, are in control of engine break in for 98 % of the time that it takes to occur. This is a serious responsibility when you consider the expense and aggravation of having to remove, re-hone and re-ring cylinders that have glazed and not broken in.

Hopefully, understanding what engine break in is, as well as what is happening in the engine while the rings are seating and how our flight procedures effect the break in process, will help us to achieve the quickest and most efficient break in after piston rings are replaced.

by Mahlon Russell

 

[grumpyvette]

BREAK-IN PROCEDURES
FOR REMANUFACTURED ENGINES
SUGGESTED PRECAUTIONS FOR REMANUFACTURED ENGINES
This engine has been carefully remanufactured to precision standards, and will
perform properly if certain steps are taken by the mechanic making the installation.
Following is a list of causes for a remanufactured engine to fail early in service, and
suggested procedures to prevent failure. When a properly remanufactured engine
fails to give satisfactory service, it is usually due to: burning piston heads caused by
detonation, pre-ignition or “lugging”; piston scuffing or seizing usually caused by
overheating or excess fuel; bearing and crankshaft wear caused by underlubrication,
dirt or coolant seepage; excessive piston and cylinder wear caused by
dirt, ineffective air filtering, coolant seepage or excessively rich, air-fuel ratio.
The customer and the remanufacturer have a mutual interest in this engine.
We both want it to perform and give long and satisfactory life.
We recommend these precautions:
1. Be sure to prime the oil pump, oil lines and fill the oil filters with oil using an
auxiliary pump, operating the internal oil pump with a hand drill, or an external
pressure tank connected to the oil pressure gauge or sending unit fitting before
starting the engine. It is desirable to fill the crankcase in this manner. If using an air
pressure tank be sure it does not run out of oil and blow air through the lines.
2. Proper air-fuel ratio is vital in today’s engines. Be sure the carburetor or fuel
injection system has been remanufactured to manufacturer’s specifications. Manifold
and cylinder head surfaces should be checked and in good condition (resurface if
necessary). Be sure the cylinder heads and manifolds are torqued and retorqued in
proper sequence if required. Air seepage can cause lean air-fuel ratio which causes
detonation. Check fuel pump for proper pressure.
3. Ignition or diesel fuel injection system should be properly serviced or calibrated,
and engine timing corrected. Proper valve lash or clearance is very important.
4. Be sure to use spark plugs of the correct heat range and gap as specified by the
engine manufacturer. Check electronic sensors and sending units for proper
operation. Vacuum lines must be properly routed and connected to the appropriate
fittings to ensure operation of emission control devices and related engine controls.
5. Check the exhaust thermostat control (commonly called the heat riser) to be
certain it is free and operating properly. Check the exhaust gas recirculation valve
(EGR valve) for proper operation. Clean the intake manifold to remove deposits from
the various passages.
6. Rebuild or replace the radiator and hose lines to ensure they are free from
deposits so that the cooling system can function properly. Restrictions can cause
overheating. Thermostats should be checked or replaced with one of the correct
temperature. Use the proper pressure cap as specified by the engine manufacturer,
and make sure it is properly seated.
7. Important - replace filter elements. Thoroughly check engine accessories which
are to be reused. Clean them internally and externally before installing.
8. The coolant used should be compatible with aluminum engine components and
blended to a mixture of no more than 60% antifreeze and 40% water. We
recommend that a good sealer with rust inhibitors be added to the cooling system.
This will tend to prevent rust and scale deposits and guard against coolant seepage.
9. Before releasing the engine for regular service, check the air-fuel ratio. Caution
the driver against “lugging.”
RECOMMENDED “BREAK-IN” PROCEDURES FOR REMANUFACTURED ENGINES
Protect the investment you have in your engine. Take the time to read and follow
these recommendations.
CAUTION
1. Before starting the engine for the first time, be sure it has been properly prelubricated.
2. Never add cold water to the cooling system while the engine is running. The
engine should be allowed to run at normal operating temperature.
3. Start engine and run at fast idle, approximately 1500 RPM, and check the oil
pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though coolant may rise to operating
temperature in a few minutes. Adjust tappets, if required, carburetor and ignition
timing. If the coolant should “boil over,” stop engine and allow to cool. Then start
again and proceed as above.
4. When required retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to engine manufacturer’s
specifications in proper sequence. Readjust tappets if necessary.
5. Start engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 MPH in “drive” range or
select the proper gears for standard transmission. Periodically accelerate to 50 MPH
and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. For a large truck or
industrial engine, accelerate in intermediate gears as above.
NOTE: Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring
pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially
important because you are “breaking-in” the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid
deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and ring
assemblies.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS
Passenger Cars
Drive normally but not at continuous high speeds or under heavy loads for the first
500 miles. Change oil and filters after 500 miles.
Trucks
Operate the vehicle with light loads up to 500 miles and avoid “lugging.” Occasional
acceleration and deceleration in proper gear during this period is advisable. Change
oil and filters after 500 miles of service.
Industrial Engines
Follow the above instructions and operate under partial loads for several hours.
Change oil and filters after approximately 20 hours of operation.
As required by the engine or gasket manufacturer, after 1000 miles of service,
retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications. Readjust tappets
when required. We suggest this be done again after 5000 miles. We know that this
means extra work, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance.
DESIGNATION, IDENTIFICATION AND DESCRIPTIONS OF OIL CATEGORIES
API Engine Service Description
Letter Designations: SA, SB, SC, CA, CB
Oils with this designation are considered obsolete and should not be used unless
specifically authorized by the engine manufacturer.
Letter Designation: SD
1968 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service ...typical of gasoline engines in
1968 - 1970 models of passenger cars and some trucks operating under engine
manufacturer’s warranties in effect during those model years. Oils designed for this
service provide more protection against high - and low-temperature engine deposits,
wear, rust, and corrosion in gasoline engines than oils which are satisfactory for API
Engine Service Categories SC and may be used when category SC is recommended.
Letter Designation: SE
1972 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service ...typical of gasoline engines in
passenger cars and some trucks beginning with 1972 and certain 1971 models
operating under engine manufacturer’s warranties. Oils designed for this service
provide more protection against oil oxidation, high temperature engine deposits, rust
and corrosion in gasoline engines than oils which are satisfactory for API Engine
Service Categories SD or SC and may be used when either of these categories is
recommended.
Letter Designation: SF
1980 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service ...typical of gasoline engines in
passenger cars and some trucks beginning with 1980 - 1988 model years operating
under engine manufacturer’s recommended maintenance procedures. Oils developed
for this service provide increased oxidation stability and improved anti-wear
performance relative to oils that meet the minimum requirements for API Service
Category SE. These oils provide protection against engine deposits, rust and
corrosion. Oils meeting API Service Category SF may be used where categories SE,
SD or SC are recommended.
Letter Designation: SG
1989 Gasoline Engine Service - Service typical of gasoline engines in present
passenger cars, vans and light trucks operating under manufacturer’s recommended
maintenance procedures. Category SG quality oils include the performance
properties of API Service Category CC. (Certain manufacturers of gasoline engines
require oils also meeting API Service Category CD). Oils developed for this service
provide improved control of engine deposits, oil oxidation and engine wear relative to
oils developed for previous categories. These oils also provide protection against rust
and corrosion. Oils meeting API Service Category SG may be used where categories
SF, SE, SF/CC or SE/CC are recommended.
Letter Designation: SH
This oil classification came to the industry in 1992 to replace the SG oil and provide
better protection against rust, oxidation, sludge, varnish as well as providing
extended component life expectancy. It is currently still available, however it is
obsolete for PCMO licensing. It can be used only with API CF, CF-2, DF-4 and CG-4
when displayed in the API service symbol and the C category appears first.
Letter Designation: SJ
This oil classification came to the industry in 1996 to replace the SH oil with
continued refinements to the SH oil. It is currently available and acceptable for use in
engines manufactured previous to the year 2,000.
Letter Designation: ILSAC GF-3
(ILSAC, International Lubrication Standardization & Approval Committee)
This oil meets the current automotive manufacturer requirements for their newest
lines of engines and will be used in 2,000 automotive engines. There were earlier
versions used before the year 2000. The ISLAC grades are described as SAE 0W-20,
0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30. These oils have improved overall oil performance
while increasing fuel economy while providing emission systems protection.
Letter Designation: CC
Moderate Duty Diesel and Gasoline Engine Service - Service typical of certain
naturally aspirated, turbocharged, or supercharged diesel engines operated in
moderate to server-duty service and certain heavy-duty gasoline engine. Oils
designed for this service provide protection from high-temperature deposits and
bearing corrosion in these diesels and also from rust corrosion, and low-temperature
deposits in gasoline engines. These oils were introduced in 1961.
Letter Designation: CD
Severe Duty Diesel Engine Service - Service typical of certain naturally aspirated
turbocharged or supercharged diesel engines where highly effective control of wear
and deposits is vital or when using fuels of wide quality range including high sulfur
fuels. Oils designed for this service were introduced in 1955 and provide protection
from bearing corrosion and from high-temperature deposits in these diesel engines.
Letter Designation: CD-II
Severe Duty Two-Stroke Cyclic Diesel Engine Service - Service typical of two-stroke
cycle diesel engines requiring highly-effective control over wear and deposits. Oils
designed for this service also meet all performance requirements of API Service
Category CD.
Letter Designation: CE
Severe Duty Diesel Engine Service - Service typical of certain naturally aspirated,
turbocharged or supercharged heavy duty diesel engines manufactured since 1983
and operated under both low speed - high load and high speed - high load
conditions. Oils designed for this service must meet the requirements of API Engine
Service Category CC and CD.
LUBRICANT RECOMMENDATIONS FOR
“BREAKING-IN” REMANUFACTURED ENGINES
Follow the recommendations of the engine manufacturer for the proper viscosity and
type of oil to be used during and after the “break-in” period.
It is important to use heavy-duty detergent oils which contain an EP (extreme
pressure) additive right from the start. Special “break-in” oils should not be used
unless specified by the manufacturer. Older engines without oil filters may require
special considerations, such as the use of non-detergent oils unless otherwise
specified by the manufacturer.
Consult the owner’s or service manual for the latest manufacturer’s recommendation
on oil selection.
See the accompanying chart for additional information on the type of engine oils
currently in production and available for use with today’s engines.
SAE Motor Oil Viscosity Classifications
Since 1911, the petroleum industry has used the SAE Crankcase Oil Viscosity
Classification System to describe and classify motor oils according to their ability to
flow at various temperatures. The grades in common used today are: 5W, 10W,
15W, 20, 30, 40 and 50. The “W” indicates the oil is suitable for use during low
ambient temperatures such as during the winter months. For instance, oils
designated at 5W-30 provide adequate lubrications at -13°F (-25°C). Multigrade oils
are able to maintain their viscosity over a wide range of temperatures. An oil
designated as 10W-40 performs as well as a 10W designated oil at low
temperatures, and as well as a single grade 40 designated oil at high temperatures.
Synthetic Motor Oils
The introduction of synthetic motor oils dates back to World War II and they are
often described as the “oil of the future.” Synthetic oils are man made, manufactured
in a laboratory rather than pumped out of the ground and refined. They offer a
variety of advantages over natural oils from better fuel economy, stability over a
wide range of temperatures and operating conditions and longevity.
However, the use of synthetic engine oils is not recommended for the “break-in”
period. Its outstanding ability to reduce wear by virtually eliminating friction between
moving components is not desirable for a “break-in” oil. Certain predictable amounts
of friction are required for proper “break-in” of piston and piston rings. AERA does
not recommend the use of synthetic engine oils for the first 5,000 miles of service.
Thereafter it is up to the vehicle owner to weight the cost of more expensive
synthetic motor oils, manufacturer’s oil classification recommendations and drain
intervals.
Abbreviations and Symbols
API - American Petroleum Institute
SAE - The Society of Automotive Engineers
--
AERA – Engine Builders Association

The purpose of the Association is to develop and encourage high standards of
workmanship and ethics among its members; to improve business conditions
through the exchange of information and ideas; and to promote the common
business interests of persons and organizations engaged in the remanufacturing of
internal combustion engines or basic internal components of such engines in
automotive machine shops.