No Wheels Were Balanced
- Thread starter DorianL
- Start date
odd vibrations that might come or go and usually get worse at random rpm ranges ,
or get worse as you speed up or slow down..
be aware that worn tie rods and ball joints and wheel bearings,
can also contribute to the severity of those odd vibrations
or get worse as you speed up or slow down..
be aware that worn tie rods and ball joints and wheel bearings,
can also contribute to the severity of those odd vibrations
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Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
It doesn't take much imbalance for your dashboard to shake up & down, or your door panels to vibrate in & out at highway speeds.
I don't know if I am describing this correctly, but the speeds at which the vibrations happen will be harmonics, and happen at multiples of each speed.
For example, you have a vibration that peaks at 70 mph. It will also be there (to either a lesser or greater extent) at 35 mph (1/2) and also at 140 mph (2X).
I don't know if I am describing this correctly, but the speeds at which the vibrations happen will be harmonics, and happen at multiples of each speed.
For example, you have a vibration that peaks at 70 mph. It will also be there (to either a lesser or greater extent) at 35 mph (1/2) and also at 140 mph (2X).
I feel it there too.
Thanks ! The date code on the tires is 2010. My guess is these tires haven’t been looked at since.
Let’s square away the tire balance and the, if it is till there... my guess is it’s the budget engine build. Dollars to doughnuts, the never bothered to get balanced and cheaped out.
All bushings and ball-joints from front and and rear suspension have been replaced. There is not more looseness there. I did the rear wheel bearings, but not the front.
Next step is clearly o check off the wheels and tires as a source of vibration.
Motor and trans mounts are new. New Bushing in trans tail house. All U-joints were replaced. Driveshaft balanced.
The only things I didn't do yet:
Next step is clearly o check off the wheels and tires as a source of vibration.
Motor and trans mounts are new. New Bushing in trans tail house. All U-joints were replaced. Driveshaft balanced.
The only things I didn't do yet:
- Balance the engine, it seems smooth enough at RPM (idle timing jumps around a bit I suspect lost of slack in timing chain) nonetheless I don't trust it, it looks like a cheap build.
- Driveline geometry seems to check out, as measured with Tremec iPhone App
- Wheels and tire balance: up next hopefully there is some progress to be made here.
- Differential (it looks likes someone went through it; for better of for worse.)
See if you can get the tires Road Force Balanced, it takes into account the variances of the tire stiffness
as the tire rotates. Stiffness is not the same all around the tire. Traditional balancing cannot correct
for this problem. The shorter the sidewall, the more critical tires stiffness is. It will cost more.
https://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/road_force_balancing
https://www.discounttire.com/learn/road-force-balancing
as the tire rotates. Stiffness is not the same all around the tire. Traditional balancing cannot correct
for this problem. The shorter the sidewall, the more critical tires stiffness is. It will cost more.
https://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/road_force_balancing
https://www.discounttire.com/learn/road-force-balancing
I think these people are the distributor for the Hunter Wheel Force Balancers in Belgium, they
should know. It might be overkill, but if you can't solve your problem, then .....
TECHNO AUTOMOTIVE EQUIPMENT (TAE)
1731 ZELLIK (BELGIUM),
0032.2.481.79.00
should know. It might be overkill, but if you can't solve your problem, then .....
TECHNO AUTOMOTIVE EQUIPMENT (TAE)
1731 ZELLIK (BELGIUM),
0032.2.481.79.00
Yep. I know those guys. They are one of the largest distributors of automotive maintenance and repair tools.
Indeed, if all else fails... I’ll have to track one down.
One of our former ambassadors owned Hunter
Right. So all four were out of balance in grams by: 50 - 60 - 80 and 105.
The front one also seems like the tire is deformed. When the fellow spun it on the machine, you could clearly see it was a wobble. He said it was the tire, not the wheel.
The tires are 10 years old with minimal wear.
I think I’ll swap the wobble tire to the rear to see if that changes the characteristics of the vibration.
stay tuned
The front one also seems like the tire is deformed. When the fellow spun it on the machine, you could clearly see it was a wobble. He said it was the tire, not the wheel.
The tires are 10 years old with minimal wear.
I think I’ll swap the wobble tire to the rear to see if that changes the characteristics of the vibration.
stay tuned
you can try changing the location of the potentially defective tire,
but its almost certainly in need of replacement,
and at 10 years old its certainly due to be replaced.
internal cord damage to the structure of the tire due to hitting pot holes or curbs can leave internal structural damage, thats not always easy to see.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-refers-too-and-related-info.1946/#post-5160
but its almost certainly in need of replacement,
and at 10 years old its certainly due to be replaced.
internal cord damage to the structure of the tire due to hitting pot holes or curbs can leave internal structural damage, thats not always easy to see.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-refers-too-and-related-info.1946/#post-5160
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Sooooo.
I swapped the wobbly one to the rear and indeed it seems like the vibration shifted to the rear and away from the steering wheel to the rear.
With all wheels “balanced” it seems to be an improvement. Less vibration in the seat. It’s still very annoying tho.
Also seems to be speed related rather than rpm.
In any case, I think new tires are in order. Let’s see what that does.
Who knows, maybe the PO had this on four flat tires for years.
I swapped the wobbly one to the rear and indeed it seems like the vibration shifted to the rear and away from the steering wheel to the rear.
With all wheels “balanced” it seems to be an improvement. Less vibration in the seat. It’s still very annoying tho.
Also seems to be speed related rather than rpm.
In any case, I think new tires are in order. Let’s see what that does.
Who knows, maybe the PO had this on four flat tires for years.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
That is a great test - good idea.Tomorrow we may get the rest of the story.
I have a buddy with a 1971 corvette. Tomorrow we are going to swap wheels to see if that will make any difference.
Sounds like a lot of work to me ..... but if two guys are having fun, well then, it's NOT WORK !!!
Sure need alot of jack stands ! LOL !
Aaaanh !!!! Wrong answer.
I drove his car. He drove mine. We swapped tires and did the same again. Then another Plastic Fantastic stopped to say hello.
Conclusion:
The vibration does not come from the tires.
The vibration does not come from the engine.
So it must be drive train.
All the U-joints were replaced. The driveshaft was balanced.
I am thinking I might check all the U-joints again but Mañana
Tomorrow I will also check my driveline angles, again.
Hmmm, if all that checks out, that leaves:
The transmission. The tail housing bushing was really wasted. The yoke had also been significantly damaged too. I suppose it is possible that there is something unhappy inside the Muncie. Maybe the tail housing itself was deformed ?
Then there is the carrier bushing, that might have been damaged as well leading to vibration, no ? Is there anyway to check that without tearing into it ?
Next step:
Since I have the T5 and IF everything else checks out... I may do a transmission swap to eliminate that source. The T5 is a know good unit.
I drove his car. He drove mine. We swapped tires and did the same again. Then another Plastic Fantastic stopped to say hello.
Conclusion:
The vibration does not come from the tires.
The vibration does not come from the engine.
So it must be drive train.
All the U-joints were replaced. The driveshaft was balanced.
I am thinking I might check all the U-joints again but Mañana
Tomorrow I will also check my driveline angles, again.
Hmmm, if all that checks out, that leaves:
The transmission. The tail housing bushing was really wasted. The yoke had also been significantly damaged too. I suppose it is possible that there is something unhappy inside the Muncie. Maybe the tail housing itself was deformed ?
Then there is the carrier bushing, that might have been damaged as well leading to vibration, no ? Is there anyway to check that without tearing into it ?
Next step:
Since I have the T5 and IF everything else checks out... I may do a transmission swap to eliminate that source. The T5 is a know good unit.