Oil accumulator

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
an oil accumulator is basically an aux pressurized oil tank , that in most cases holds 1.5-4 quarts of oil in reserve, the engine oil pump pumps it full once the oil pressures in the engines oil passages is high enough, and feeds it back into the passages under pressure if the oil pump sucks air or the oil pressure drops, these accumulators are commonly hooked to a pressure sensitive valve AND frequently have a manual, or electrically controlled over ride,that can be used to trap pressurized oil, to pre-pressurize an engine before it is started, the oil can be manually routed to the engine to pre-prime the bearings and oil passages, before starting the engine, reducing wear, the engine keeps the accumulator filled while its running , and the accumulator normally has a pressure sensitive switch that cuts the ignition circuit off if oil pressure drops below 5-7 psi.
thus you've always got oil pressure during a race or the engines ignition cuts off before damage is done, if oil pressure drops under high g-loads,that uncover the oil pump pick-up.
despite the picture the accumulators mounted vertically and usually connected to the block near the rear into a oil passage at some point.
you idle back to the pits after a race or into your garage and while the engines running you throw the manual switch to trap the oil before turning off the engine, so its there for the next start up, if you turn the engine off, it would try to refill the passages due to the drop in pressure as its designed too otherwise.(yes in most cases the oil accumulator also has a electrical control valve that traps the oil if the ignition is switched off so you don,t totally depend on a driver remembering to flip a manual switch in many installed applications.)
Id suggest you install a low oil pressure switch that cuts off the ignition,voltage
if oil pressure drops below about 7-10 psi in the next rebuild,

with a manual dash switch so the oil accumulator can retain its load of pressurized oil if you choose to do so, to use it to pre-lube the engine just prior to engine start up, when the oil accumulator and pressure switch is not being used as a safety back-up, oil supply, while racing that cuts the ignition off at 10 psi and floods the oil passages if the oil pressure drops below 7 psi.
pictures of what happened to the oil cooler and connection lines would be helpful,
pictures of the valve seats and valves and any part numbers on the valves may also be helpful



related good info
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-23900/?rtype=10

mor-23900.jpg

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=985

http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstruc ... -23900.pdf

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/howto/3282/index.html

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techartic ... index.html

http://s2.pegasusautoracing.com/group.a ... D=OILACCUS

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

read thru these

http://www.masterlube.net/questions.htm

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categoryd ... code=13600

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/1 ... setup.html

http://www.moroso.com/articles/articled ... code=13600

http://www.longacreracing.com/instructions.aspx?item=8139&article=Low Oil Pressure Ignition / Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch Wiring Instructions
Low Oil Pressure Ignition / Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch Wiring Instructions
This is a 2 terminal switch that is not closed (current flowing) until it senses pressure above 12 psi.

Install it somewhere in the oil pressure system and route the power for the ignition system (NOT start function) through this switch. When the oil pressure drops below 12 psi it will shut off the ignition.

This is also true for starting. As the starter motor turns over the motor it will not fire until the oil pressure reaches 12 psi (this usually only takes a few seconds). Optionally a user can install a momentary switch across the #43600 shutoff switch terminals (see Longacre #45460 or #45462). To start the motor before it reaches 12 psi simply activate this switch to bypass the shutoff switch.
lowop1.png


lowop3.png

IF you've wondered why I suggest buying and using a well designed BAFFLED oil pan with 7-8 quart capacity its to prevent the oil from uncovering the oil pump pick-up under performance use.
without control baffles oil sloshes away from the oil pump pick-up

Slosh1.jpg

Slosh3.jpg

Slosh2.jpg


accumulatorfig1.gif


accumulatorfig2.gif

accusumpcharging.gif

discharging.gif


read thru these

http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html

http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/instructions.pdf

http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/E.P.C. VALVE.pdf

How The Accumulator Works
The Accumulator is tapped to the pressure side of the engine’s oiling system. When the engine is running, oil pressure forces oil into the accumulator and compresses air ahead of it.
Figure 1: Under normal conditions, oil pressure keeps a reserve of oil in the Accumulator under constant pressure.
If oil pressure should suddenly drop because of hard acceleration, severe cornering or hard braking, air pressure immediately sends oil back into the engine. When the danger is over and the pump is once again supplied with oil, pressure in the engine forces oil back into the Accumulator where it is ready for the next emergency.
Figure 2: When oil pressure drops, air pressure sends the stored oil into the engine at the main oil galleries to prevent damage.
naturally youll want to have the required extra oil volume in the pan to fill the accumulator the first time and a gauge in the cabin to show its oil reserve pressure and a manual switch, or a opressure switch that cuts the ignition if oil pressure falls below 5-7 psi.All Accumulators store oil under pressure and automatically release that oil to the main galleries when oil pressure drops. Moroso Accumulators can also be used to manually pre-lube engines before starting to prevent cold-start scuffing and premature bearing wear.
23903_part.jpg


Accusump_150.jpg


http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/23930_inst.pdf

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Grumpy,while this is not an accumulator,it is a pre-luber.I have one of these on my car,just to help prevent dry start up's.My car sits all winter long,and even in the summer there are times it may sit for a week or two,so I wanted something compact that would put a bit of oil to the bearings.Heres a picture,I have it mounted to the inner fender and teed into the front oil gallery with the oil pressure sender;

Guy
 
Last edited by a moderator:
very similar concepts, btw thats a really great idea since almost all engine wear in an engine with a properly set up engines lubrication system occurs during the first minute, when oils cold, not flowing well and not reaching all the moving parts, instantly, that little extra effort probably will prevent a good deal of wear and allow the engine too last significantly longer
just some info,
you might need, depending on the oil pump used, rpms and clearances a chevy V8 will generally push some where between 2 and 6 gallons a minute thru the oil passages, your average oil pan sump holds at most 3 quarts ,while the engines running, and theres generally about 2 or a bit more quarts, of oil in the upper engine, (lifter gallery, heads)while the engines running, so when you induce high inertial loads is common for the oil pump pick up to become uncovered even in a baffled oil pan for a few seconds as that 2-3 quarts in the sump slams forward and back in the sump, because remember , lets say your engines only pumping 3 gallons a minute, and theres got to be at least 2 quarts in the sump to keep the oil pump pick-up covered under high inertial loads, its only going to take a few seconds at most under those conditions to suck air into the oil pump.
accumulator7.jpg

acumulatormor.jpg

oil pressure accumulators come in various sizes and designs , they maintain oil pressure if the oil pump momentarily is uncovered due to high G forces uncovering the oil pump pick-up in the sump, so they are a valuable asset that increases durability and help to safeguard bearings and valve trains etc. under high inertial loads like high acceleration,braking or high speed cornering, that allows oil in the sump to slosh away from the oil pump pick-up in the sump.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It sends about 2/3rd's of a cup of pressurised oil in through the oil gallery.It doesent sound like much,but if you had that much in an oiling can and started pumping,it would be quite a bit.I also installed a Stefs oil pan heater,along with a block heater.We live in a slightly colder climate,so on chilly mornings,I plug both in for 1/2 an hour or so,it sure helps reduce warm up time.
Guy
 
http://static.summitracing.com/global/i ... 0_inst.pdf

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-23900/?rtype=10

mor-23900.jpg


http://static.summitracing.com/global/i ... ctions.pdf
yeah, I used one very similar to this one linked below in my 1968 big block corvette race car , along with an oil cooler with a 1000cfm electrical cooling fan and a 8 quart baffled oil pan.
I don,t know if things have changed but we used to have a manual lever valve, you throw while the engine idles that captures and holds 3 quarts,they also make a valve that works electrically with a switch, if it works thats ideal,the couple we had failed regularly but that was back in the mid 1970s Im sure they got that fixed by now, this three quart capacity in the accumulator is always held in reserve with the engine running so that is oil pressure in the block passages starts to fall its forced in to the blocks oil passages to protect the bearings like if you hit the brakes at the lights at the end of the strip, and if the oil pump pick-up became uncovered for a few seconds it would prevent air being sucked into the blocks oil passages,by back-feeding pressurized oil, you also manually throw the lever valve just prior to starting the engine as it prefills the oil passages and keeps them pressurized as long as the engine runs, and for several seconds after its shot off if you don,t remember to throw the valve before turning off the engine to hold the three quarts in reserve for the next engine start, or if you have a electrically controlled valve throw the switch.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23900
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-24-006
ctr-24-006_w.jpg

acusump.png

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15870
DER-15870_xl.jpg


viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4537&p=12073#p12073

OBVIOUSLY you have the option of installing an oil accumulator AND/ORa separate auxiliary electric powered oil pump to pre-prime the engine and pressurize the bearings prior to start up, and because most engine wear occurs during the first 60 seconds under low oil flow conditions adding a pre-presurized oil flow system should in theory add to the engine durability, but having both is the ideal combo because you don,t have to remember to get out and close the accumulator valve while the engine idles ,before you turn it off, and the accumulator thus always works because you cant forget to open the valve to activate it either... btw the diagram below shows the accumulator positioned horizontally, thats a big NO! NO!, it needs to be vertical with the gauge on top to function correctly

http://www.thinkauto.com/oilpumps.htm

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

pump_barb_fittings.jpg

diagramoilroute.gif

oilpassba.jpg

oilpasse1.jpg

oilpasse2.jpg

oilpasse3.jpg

oilpasse4.jpg

dualmount.JPG

remote filter style, I can tell you from experience that your oil feed lines too the oil cooler and remote mount filter must be AN#8 or 1/2" inside diam. or larger to maintain oil pressure at all rpm levels, you'll go crazy chasing interment oil pressure issues with AN6 lines , I,ve seen so many guys do that
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-23683/
mor-23683_w.jpg


obviously these won,t fit all chevy applications but if you have the room for the longer, spin on filters, especially if you use the dual remote mount ,they provide more filter medium and less restriction to flow plus some minor cooling and oil capacity

The "longer high capacity oil filter" Purolator is L40084.
pure40084.JPG


"longer high capacity oil filter" N.A.P.A: # 1794
napa1794.JPG

"longer high capacity oil filter" ACDelco: PF932
PF932.jpg

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi ... key=25-106

http://www.advanceadapters.com/category ... +Kits.html

http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.cfm? ... on=product

remotefilter.jpg

related threads with info you might want

oil system mods that help

heres a short list REMEMBER the object or goal in building and maintaining the lubrication system is too maintain a 100% dependable pressurized cooling flow of lubricant to the bearings, rockers,valves etc. obviously use of a high quality synthetic oil that has a higher heat tolerance and that...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

building a custom wet sump oil pan

The question comes up rather frequently when I suggest buying or modifying oil pans as to "WHY BOTHER?" well its simply the fact that most stock oil pans were designed simply to be the cheapest to manufacture component that would function on an engine that would rarely be spinning over 3500rpm...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

Oil pump priming

I have attempted to prime and pre oil the system in my 355 build using the tool shown on Grumpy's stickys but am not sure if all is as it should be. The filter was filled pre installation and the balance of the 5 quarts of oil poured into the lifter valley. The tool in inserted and run with a...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

whats a windage tray do?

"OK GRUMPYVETTE< I have dumb question? What is a windage tray and whats it for?" windage trays don,t provide a huge boost in horse power, the purpose is mostly in providing much improved oil control, faster oil return and less aeration and increased delivery efficiency, to the oil pump, the...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

how your oil pumps pressure bye-pass circuit works,

theres seems to be a lot of mis-information about , how the oil pump regulates its pressure curve, and the related subject of shimming oil pump springs and how your oil pumps pressure bye-pass circuit works. PRESSURE, that you see displayed on the oil pressure gauge is a measure of the...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

magnets

heres an old post "Any source for the magnets Grumpy? what do you use? " http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.a ... SH&cat=167 magnets are ceramic and glass hard, don,t try to drill or grind them, as they can shatter or http://www.magnet4sale.com/samarium-cobalt-discs/ proper magnets trap...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

installing an oil pump pick-up tube

there's two ways ,...... you can use the correct tool, which is ADVISABLE! use this oil pump(link below) in most stock SBC builds, as it produces a 10% increase in oil volume and standard pressure which is just fine , but obviously check your bearing clearances and oil pump to oil pan floor...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

basic info on your v8 lube system

now think it thru, HERES SOME USEFUL INFO, that might help in this thread and the sub links http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/crank-case-blow-bye-and-related-info.16790/ the first thing Id be doing here, if your not getting a strong oil flow at each rocker while your...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

cam bearing install tools & install info

Youll need a cam bearing installation tool or your local machine shop can install the bearings for you, if your not doing this regularly, have them do it, as its cheaper and easier,on a one time install basis, but if you are doing it frequently GET a decent tool and learn how to use it, keep in...
garage.grumpysperformance.com



Oil accumulator

an oil accumulator is basically an aux pressurized oil tank , that in most cases holds 1.5-4 quarts of oil in reserve, the engine oil pump pumps it full once the oil pressures in the engines oil passages is high enough, and feeds it back into the passages under pressure if the oil pump sucks air...
garage.grumpysperformance.com



Valve Spring Cooling via Engine Oil

Grumpy: Read your post on the subject of Valve Spring Cooling with Engine Oil. Thanks VERY MUCH for bringing this to my attention. I have built a SBC 383 stroker going into a 1971 Datsun 240Z. Used a shaft rocker setup, but am uncertain that the trunion is being lubricated via Engine Oil...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

bearings and oil flow

Bearings and oil flow viewtopic.php?f=53&t=88 http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm http://www.insightservices.net/testoil/ ... cation.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/misc/all_oilfaq.html...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

Shimming An Oil Pump Relief Spring

I was recently asked HOW to shim an oil pump relief spring to gain added oil pressure!:rolleyes: many pumps come with two springs , one standard and one high pressure you should NEVER shim an oil pumps pressure relief spring back in the 1950s-1960s it was common to pull the pressure...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The size of the accumulator doesnt matter, you use the same amount of oil no matter what size the accumulator is. The oil doesnt stay in the accumulator, it gets dispersed through the system with the refrigerant. So yes, use PAG 46, since its going to get mixed with the oil in the condenser anyway.

The total system oil capacity is 7 oz. You know how many ounces you put in the condenser and compressor right? So if you put say, 3 oz in the condenser and compressor, that means you need to put 4 oz in the accumulator to give you 7 oz total.
 
MaxiMl said:
The size of the accumulator doesnt matter, you use the same amount of oil no matter what size the accumulator is. The oil doesnt stay in the accumulator, it gets dispersed through the system with the refrigerant. So yes, use PAG 46, since its going to get mixed with the oil in the condenser anyway.

The total system oil capacity is 7 oz. You know how many ounces you put in the condenser and compressor right? So if you put say, 3 oz in the condenser and compressor, that means you need to put 4 oz in the accumulator to give you 7 oz total.


your referring to an ENTIRELY DIFFERENT SYSTEM AND COMPONENT, look at the diagrams and read thru the links

yeah! we all make mistakes I know Ive done my share! :oops: but in this case the two systems are TOTALLY DIFFERENT
 
grumpy would this effectively increase your oil capacity siliar to what a kickout panel or bigger sump pan would do? or is this only in reserv and not really a part of the oil circulation?
 
yes it most definitely acts as an extra capacity , and while its not as effective as having an 8-9 quart baffled oil pan in some respects its even better in some ways, as it can allow use of a smaller oil pan, that provides more ground clearance and its not as effected by high G loads of braking, acceleration or hard turns, where a long hard high speed turn tends to pull the fluids in an oil pan away from the oil pump pick-up, the oil accumulator is UN-effected and continues to supply pressurized oil flow to the bearings for several critical seconds even if the oil pump pick-up sucks air.

accumulator7.jpg


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15850
obviously you need to measure accurately and have a place to mount any oil cooler, on your vehicle to use one, and room for the connecting lines and fittings,
but adding a quality oil cooler like this to a car/truck will also noticeably help engine oil cooling and increase engine durability

der-15850_xl.jpg


related info
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65&hilit=baffle

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64&p=1394&hilit=flow+slosh#p1394

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187&p=7231&hilit=drysump#p7231

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1058&p=2016#p2016
 
Last edited by a moderator:
interesting... so its kind of like a coaxial dry sump reservoir for your wet sump system. very cool
 
Back
Top