oil additives, do they work

i think applying a torque load to a spinning bearing thats having oil poured on it, rather than pressurized thru it... is a very unrealistic test...

show me that your oil protects engines better, cools better, wears parts less.... it has to be a sealed race motor in my opinion because these are all blueprinted to the same spec, not with a tolerance... it would be the closest we could get to apples to apples comparisons... i see what youre saying tho grumpy...

perhaps then we simulate mileage and load on the dyno, but we do regular interval oil and filter changes with same brand and model filter for both motors, everything the same, only variable is the oil, different brands, different weights of the same brand, etc... and see how long the motors last before they fall out of spec and require a rebuild
 
i guess thats the most realistic lab test we could possibly make... but it would cost us a hundred sealed race motors hahaha
 
All You have to do Phil is look at the Oil Pressure Guage on your Hotrod Racer and Daily Driver.
After 10,000 miles of pure abuse the oil pressure drop should be only 1-2 psi less.
Or Exact same as when built by You.

I still have 80 psi Cold start up pressure in my 1994 Suburban today. When I rev it to 4,000 rpm after 30 seconds warmup it pegs the guage around 100psi.
It has been 2 years now since I installed the Scat 9000 series Crankshaft.
Vandervall Main & Rod Bearings.
1967-70 Melling Z28 A Oil pump with matching Melling pickup.
I tack welded the the pickup tube to the pump body.
I used Casterole GTX 10W30 Dyno oil 1st oil change.
Afterwards & I still use Casterole Edge Synthetic with Titanium 10w30.
It has a Hyd Flat Tappet Cam.
Done lots of HD Towing.
Sometimes Cruise 100mph for hours too.

That 540 is Full of #$%&** in my Book.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
2 Years and 40,000 miles later Phil.
Excellent Oil pressure cold and Hot.
 
I worked on my 1994 K1500 Suburban 350 TBI last night Grumpy.
Its not a Blown Headgasket.
I have a Stuck Lifter.
The Suburban sat unused for 4-5 weeks.
When I restarted I could hear it.

Drivers side #1 cylinder.
I had Marvel Mystery Oil in it.

I found another product and bought it.
Added in.
95 % cured.
Changed oil and refilled with Castrol Edge High Milage 10W30 synthetic .

Also added. partial can of Vintage GM EOS "DA" disperency additive. About 1/4 can.
The Rest I poured into my 1963 Grand Prix with the 1965 Olds 425A.
Olds 425 Runs like Brand New.

The Suburban had a hard life prior to me owning it.
But its not dead yet.

Ran the Suburban out of Gasoline last night running here.
Lots better. Need to drive it down the road.
I will tonight add fresh gas in the tank.

The oil guys call MMO Snake oil too.
But I like it also.

Report on the other additive....Stuck lifters and valveguides are tough...
Still a big problem researching online.
Vehicles neglected duruing the 2007-present Recession with Bam Bam around.
 
Indycars said:
I'm not ready to buy in yet.

540Rat never describes how the test is run and who knows how relevant film strength is to determining the overall quality of the oil.
Click to expand...
I agree Rick, some of the best motor oils on the market, turned out in his test to be the worst. I think his test is dejuri(tested but not really the truth). I think he advertizing for someone at the top that had his results way up there, if you know what I mean?
 
MMO is NOT an oil additive!, its simply a rather thin viscosity, high quality, automotive and machine oil,
with a high level of sludge solvent, and friction reducing additives.
that works well at breaking down and holding in suspension micro contaminants ,
so the oil filter can trap and hold them.
its not a miracle cure for anything but it certainly helps keep engine parts cleaner,
and its well documented to help free up sticky moving parts over time

metallic debris in filter

Did oil an change over the weekend, Drained and the oil and nothing looked out of the ordinary then I decided to cut open the oil filter and right away saw metal shavings, The engine has about 343 miles on since rebuild but it has had numerous oil & filter changes because of issues with fuel...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
 
Last edited:
I got my 350 Chevy SB TBI K1500 Suburban running better today Grumpy.
Used a Trick right from my 1965 GM Oldsmobile Service Manual.
Drives better.
Set the Valves this weekend.
I set the Valves last 2 years ago.
Should do it.
If not I will have to pull the Heads and do a Valvejob myself with my Sioux Valve grinding equipment .
But its running 97 %.
Had at least 1 dead cylinder prior.
No flat cam lobes . Had both valvecovers off and started the engine and let it idle.
Watched.
 
People are Stupid Azzholes Grumpy not changing oil.
I always do on a schedule.
My friend that owned the Suburban prior seldom did.
 
Its pretty clean.
...Its the crap inside of the SBC Oil Galleries breaking free and going direct into the Flat tappet Hydraulic lifters haunting me yet.
 
Yeah. With over 400,000 miles like you have, I guess you gotta expect that at some point.
 
Gotta fix my Suburban .
Its my Tow Rig for my car trailer.
Driving through Chicago the Azzholes get out of the way.
The K1500 Suburban is Bigger than thier Shitboxes Euro crap.
 
I am pulling the Heads off my Suburban this week Grumpy.
Blown headgasket between cylinders #3 & 5.
Caught it doing a compression test Sunday.
Interesting enough no bubbles in cooling system with the radiator cap off and engine running .
Using my block leak tester from Napa and the special test fluid the fluid never turns Green or Yellow.
Do a Valvejob with my Sioux Valve Gear.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top