Oil Pan Damage !

the pictures of the work done are very impressive.. congrats on a job well done RICK
 
Next time Rick, use the hammer and dolly method. In the video above, pay attention to hammer OFF dolly.
Also notice that ALL of the hammering this guy does is from the outside of the panel.
Yes, he hammered ON the metal and actually moved the metal out.
You could have done the same with your oil pan.
You thought that you needed to hammer the inside of the pan to push the metal out, and you were restricted by the windage tray.
Using the dolly on the INSIDE of the pan, you would push on the dolly and make light taps to the OUTSIDE of the pan with the hammer and the metal would stretch and actually move OUT.

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This area would have ended up smoother - less body work.
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Either way, you made it work. Good job.
 
DAMN NICE JOB ON THE PAN RICK !!!!

Next was to get started on the clean up. I decided to remove the rear main cap so I could get better access
to the grooved gasket surface. The front groove in the timing chain cover had to be cleaned in place. I had
used silicone sealer on both the front the rear grooves, so this took several hours to get properly cleaned.
Pulling the rear main also allowed me to inspect the bearing.

Was it hard to change that rear main seal while the engine sits in the T-Bucket?

I ask cause I need to change out mine on the Mud Truck.. It is blowing oil out pretty bad. I am going to try to replace it without pulling the engine.

I setup the magnets so the oil coming thru the trap door would have to flow over at least one
magnet before being sucked up by the oil pump.

When I pulled the pan off from the recent rebuild.... I had noticed that my magnets where collecting alot of shit. I then realized that Yes they are doing their job....But... When I go to change the oil in the future...There is no way I can clean the magnet that is in the pan.. So even though it is collecting...it is always going to be in the pan on the magnet even after you change the oil. For that reason, I decided that it might be better to NOT have a magnet in the oil pan,
but instead... use a magnetic drain plug. This way the plug can be cleaned with every oil change.
 
When I pulled the pan off from the recent rebuild.... I had noticed that my magnets where collecting alot of shit. I then realized that Yes they are doing their job....But... When I go to change the oil in the future...There is no way I can clean the magnet that is in the pan.. So even though it is collecting...it is always going to be in the pan on the magnet even after you change the oil. For that reason, I decided that it might be better to NOT have a magnet in the oil pan,
but instead... use a magnetic drain plug. This way the plug can be cleaned with every oil change.
Do these give you any ideas?
drain_plug_a289b8e3f63d6a1b04200ca2b5ef97cc60c076ac.png

If you have access to a lathe, you can make your own SUPER magnetic drain plug. Order a 1/4" dia x 1.5" long magnet, drill your stock drain plug with a 1/4" bit, and red Loctite it in.

ring magnet.jpg

That is a 57# pull neodymium ring magnet.
 
sounds like a good idea.
and yes Ive found an amazing amount of metallic micro crud/iron based dust ,
on inside the oil pan magnets when I pull the oil pan,
and yeah the larger donut magnet on the oil filter base is a good idea,
that also helps trap crud, after having run the engine for thousands of miles.
 
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Was it hard to change that rear main seal while the engine sits in the T-Bucket?
I didn't change the seal. I only pulled the cap off so I could clean for the pan gasket.

I know others have changed the seal by pushing the old upper half out with the new upper half. Mine was offset by a 1/4 inch so I guess I could have pulled the old one out with pliers.

I' don't have a problem with the crude left on the magnets after an oil change, it's not going anywhere. I think there will be a greater volume of oil reach a magnet when they are all around the inlet to the oil pump
 
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