Oil Viscosity Question

chromebumpers

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
You know how some newer motors require lighter weight oils such as my DD calls for 0w20 and my wife’s car needs 5w20. She has a load of miles on that car and has a history of letting her car go dry on a few occasions. * I made her be responsible to check and add her own oil in case anything happens to me she can do some things on her own. She could just as well have it checked by someone else but it’s not like the old days when they performed services at the gas stations. The guy pumping gas would ask to check your oil and clean your windshield. We have one or 2 service stations (8 miles apart) that I can think of and even then I don’t know if the guy pumping will check your fluids if you ask.

So if you suspect a high mileage motor that calls for low weight oil has considerable wear, does that motor derive any benefit to using the next heavier weight oil? To fill the larger voids left from worn down parts?

I was reading my owners manual and the manufacturer explains the lower viscosity oils are needed to adequately flow between today’s close tolerance parts and to improve gas mileage. It just made me think in terms of what I just said about wear. Discuss -o_O
 
I would stick with the manufacturers recommended oil Viscosity because of VVT variable cam timing.
Thicker oil likely cause issues with.

The Wifes Honda CRV was burning oil at a fast rate for a while.
Knew it was sludge plugging the Oil rings up and oil return holes in the pistons.
Tried MMO Grumpys solution it helped.
But wasn't happy yet myself.
Discovered BGR109 EPR Engine Performance restore.
Used it and a ton of Black sheet came out.
Fresh oil and filter changed day before clean 20 miles only prior to BG109 EPR.
It quit burning oil her now Vintage B20Z2 CRV Honda engine.
Uses 1/2 quart only every 3000 miles now.
Was 1 quart every 200-500 miles prior.
Results may vary but I like it recommend trying it out
 
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I can respect that and will follow your advice. In fact if you look at my photo of various paints and supplies on another post you can spot your Brand EPR, 3rd shelf from the bottom on right side. First bottle on left, another in front of the paper towels. Others there too, what you see on the shelfs is also in cases stacked on the floor.

C99EE5A2-1224-4668-A142-C4ED2376F9E6.jpeg
 
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I can respect that and will follow your advice. In fact if you look at my photo of various paints and supplies on another post you can spot your Brand EPR, 3rd shelf from the bottom on right side. First bottle on left, another in front of the paper towels. Others there too, what you see on the shelfs is also in cases stacked on the floor.

View attachment 15778
I think that is MOA BG Oil additive.
Its supposed to be good stuff too
 


the safe zone for oil temperature is 190-220F. Anything lower and you risk not getting all the moisture out. Anything higher and you're oil is going to degrade faster.
Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls.
A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees,
but starts breaking down over 275 degrees.
The traditional approach is to try to hold max oil temperatures ,
between 230 and no higher than 260 degree for brief time periods.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/




EngineLife-OilTemperature_001a@2x.jpg

the safe zone for oil temperature is 190-220F.
Anything lower and you risk not getting all the moisture out.
Anything consistently run higher and you're oil is going to degrade faster.
main-qimg-4a2656e37df18154d17009d2a7ea60c4
 
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I was recently asked
"what type of oil and filter I would suggest, to clean out an older engine a guy has had installed and running in his car for over 20 years"
first..
I would point out that any engine that's been running more or less constantly for 20 plus years is most likely in need of a tear down and refresh,
not just an oil/filter change , especially if you've pulled a valve cover and there's obviously a layer of SLUDGE visible, and yes I've seen engines where the sludge was packed in so thick the valve cover worked like a jello mold on the sludge and it was frankly amazing it still functioned.
if you can see obvious sludge build up, simply adding some new solvent oil, and fresh oil, and an oil filter, to break up the slurry, that resulted from decades of neglect is only going to result in a partly clogged oil filter and oil passages
you can prevent sludge with frequent oil & oil filter changes use of higher quality oil, etc, but once an engines packed with sludge, a rebuilt with a good tear down and cleaning is advisable.
think it through, sludge is the residue of burnt over heated oil, varnish and burnt oil ash in a slurry, if you add solvents to dissolve the sludge and break it apart the accumulated slurry has to go someplace, it does not evaporate, and your oil filter is designed to trap most of that crud suspended in the oil flow. this will very rapidly over tax and clog any oil filter, that was never designed to handle a massive influx of trash that took decades to form.

sludge5.jpg

its generally a very good idea, too,
keep a bound note pad with notes in your glove compartment,

on the wiring, wire colors, wire gauges, relays used ,
ground locations, fuse amps, fuel and oil and air filter part numbers, type of oil used,
dates on oil/filter changes, brake fluid replacement dates, when the brake pads/calipers etc were last changed etc.
keep a log on, when alignments were done, what size and brand of tires you use,
and visually inspect the tires, brake fluid and oil levels every few days
and any time you remove a wheel, inspect the brake rotors, pads and ball joints and if the car/trucks up on a lift,
it certainly helps to visually inspect the u-joints, ball joints and do a suspension lube
you would be amazed at the sludge build up in some engines

marvel.jpg

MMO is NOT an oil additive!, its simply a rather thin viscosity, high quality, automotive and machine oil,
with a high level of sludge solvent, and friction reducing additives.
that works well at breaking down and holding in suspension micro contaminants ,
so the oil filter can trap and hold them.
its not a miracle cure for anything but it certainly helps keep engine parts cleaner,
and its well documented to help free up sticky moving parts over time


 
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You have to watch adding MMO to engines that have VVT or variable valve timing. Those solenoids that work hydraulically to control the valves in conjunction with computer control go nuts when the designed viscosity changes. Our one car was a quart low (please don’t ask) it required 0W 20 but all we had on hand was 5W 30. The next day that car went to limp home mode with the engine light on. The OBDll codes showed possible crankcase position sensor, cam shaft position sensor and several more problem However all due to the VVT solenoids not functioning properly. An oil change and the car ran like new again.
 
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