theres several quality shops that do crank repairs, simply welding and cutting pollish jobs and more complex repairs youll want to get the crank inspected and possiably magnafluxed,(magnetic particle crack detection test) having a good detailed conversation about cost time and expected results is always a good idea, before you get any machine work done.
BALANCING, MICRO POLISHING ETC, can get expensive
"Most crankshafts can be repaired by machining. Specifically, crankshafts are ground (also referred to as turned) using a crankshaft grinding machine. Because the machining process takes off additional material from the rod and main journals, under-size bearings are required for installation. The most typical under-sizes are .010, .020, and .030 of an inch. Even severely damaged crankshafts may be repaired by welding"
"If you have a worn/damaged crankshaft, it is important to bring it in to the automotive machine shop to be inspected. This will allow the automotive machinists an opportunity to properly inspect your crankshaft and determine the extent of the damage. While the majority of cranks only require a typical undersized grind, others may need to be straightened, or simply beveled and polished. On occasion a weld may be needed to bring the crankshaft journals, thrust, and/or the crankshaft seal surfaces back to OEM specifications"
http://www.crankshaftco.com/
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=90124
its usually standard practice to lightly stamp the outward facing rods and rod caps with the cylinder number they will be or are located in and a matched stamped number on the oil pan rail of the block, its also useful to stamp the main caps on one edge and a matched stamped number on the oil pan rail of the block, indicating which direction each main cap faces and its location during the original DIS-assembly process or first engine assembly to prevent potential screw-ups during later builds or refresh builds.
just make the stamped number clearly readable but not deeply stamped as you don,t want to induce potential stress risers that might weaken the connecting rods
covering the rod bolts to protect the crank journals during assembly or dis-assembly, by slipping opposite ends of a 24" section of rubber fuel line over the exposed bolts , helps prevent crank journal, nicks/damage
http://www.promarengine.com/crankshafts.asp
http://milehighcranks.com/
http://www.marinecrankshaftinc.com/
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2919&p=7625&hilit=tear+crank#p7625
BALANCING, MICRO POLISHING ETC, can get expensive
"Most crankshafts can be repaired by machining. Specifically, crankshafts are ground (also referred to as turned) using a crankshaft grinding machine. Because the machining process takes off additional material from the rod and main journals, under-size bearings are required for installation. The most typical under-sizes are .010, .020, and .030 of an inch. Even severely damaged crankshafts may be repaired by welding"
"If you have a worn/damaged crankshaft, it is important to bring it in to the automotive machine shop to be inspected. This will allow the automotive machinists an opportunity to properly inspect your crankshaft and determine the extent of the damage. While the majority of cranks only require a typical undersized grind, others may need to be straightened, or simply beveled and polished. On occasion a weld may be needed to bring the crankshaft journals, thrust, and/or the crankshaft seal surfaces back to OEM specifications"
http://www.crankshaftco.com/
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=90124
its usually standard practice to lightly stamp the outward facing rods and rod caps with the cylinder number they will be or are located in and a matched stamped number on the oil pan rail of the block, its also useful to stamp the main caps on one edge and a matched stamped number on the oil pan rail of the block, indicating which direction each main cap faces and its location during the original DIS-assembly process or first engine assembly to prevent potential screw-ups during later builds or refresh builds.
just make the stamped number clearly readable but not deeply stamped as you don,t want to induce potential stress risers that might weaken the connecting rods
covering the rod bolts to protect the crank journals during assembly or dis-assembly, by slipping opposite ends of a 24" section of rubber fuel line over the exposed bolts , helps prevent crank journal, nicks/damage
http://www.promarengine.com/crankshafts.asp
http://milehighcranks.com/
http://www.marinecrankshaftinc.com/
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2919&p=7625&hilit=tear+crank#p7625