Pinion Seal Replacement on Ford 9 Inch w/ Traction Lock

Indycars

Indycars

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I need to replace the pinion seal on my TBucket rear end. Wondering what's the best way to re-set the bearing preload when replacing the pinion nut without replacing the crush sleeve?

Do they make a sleeve to replace the seal surface when it had been grooved by the old seal?

Any tips???
 
The Front Pinion support unbolts from the 3rd member drop out housing Rick.
Service on the work bench and in a Vise.
Always Replace the Crush Sleeve.
Napa stocks it. Same as later Ford 8.8" crush sleeve.
There are Ready Sleeves available to repair the worn Yoke seal area.
I would replace the 9-Inch yoke with a nice used or a brand new part.
 
Billet steel yoke be best. Cost a $100 bill.
T-bucket is real light so I don't see the Factory yoke stressed real hard.
 
Another option is not to use a Crush Sleeve but a Solid pinion spacer and selective washer shims to get the Pinion Pre Load right.
Also Purchase a New Pinion nut.
Nut is 1 time use only.
 
Jegs or Summit Racing will have all the parts required Rick.
Yukon Gear.
Motive Gear.
Richmond Gear.
Strange Engineering .
Mark Williams .
RaTeck .

Grumpy will have lots of links soon Rick.
 
http://www.ehow.com/how_7359683_change-ford-9_inch-rear-end.html
READ THRU THIS
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/t...09-step-by-pinion-seal-replacement-anti-ooze/
AND
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/rear-end-articles/484585-fixing-9-ford-pinion-leaks.html


Things You'll Need
  • Jack
  • Jack stands
  • Wrench set
  • Needle-type inch-pound torque wrench
  • Paper and pencil
  • White-out
  • 14-inch or larger pipe wrench
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar and socket set
  • Drain pan
  • 2-jaw pulling tool
  • Seal-removing tool or small pry bar
  • Shop rags
  • New oil seal
  • Hammer
  • Seal-installing tool or socket the same size as the oil seal
  • New pinion nut
  • Torque wrench with minimum 250 ft.-lb. rating
Instructions
    • 1
      Park the vehicle on level ground. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and rear wheels.

    • 2
      Mark the U-joint cap and the pinion yoke with white-out where the cap is seated. Remove the bolts on the U-straps that hold the universal joint onto the pinion yoke. Remove the straps. Remove the universal joint and the driveshaft from the yoke and lower the driveshaft to the ground. Be careful that the caps on the U-joint do not fall off.

    • 3
      Place an inch-pound needle-type torque wrench and socket on the pinion nut. Apply pressure to the torque wrench clockwise and note how many inch-pounds of pressure it takes to move the pinion yoke through a couple of revolutions. Write this value down, as you will need it when you reinstall the nut.

    • 4
      Mark the pinion yoke and the shaft with white-out so you can realign the parts when you put it back together. You will be using a new pinion nut.

    • 5
      Remove the pinion nut (and washer if it has one) by placing a large pipe wrench on the pinion yoke to hold it stationary and using a breaker bar and socket to turn the pinion nut counterclockwise. Note that it will take a lot of force to remove the nut. It is torqued at around 225 ft.-lbs.

    • 6
      Place a drain pan under the rear axle in case any gear oil leaks out when you remove the pinion yoke. Try to pull off the pinion yoke. If you cannot pull it off, use a two-jaw puller to remove it.

    • 7
      Pry out the old pinion seal with a seal removal tool or a small pry bar.

    • 8
      Wipe the area on the axle housing around the pinion seal with a shop rag. Apply a light coat of oil to the inside rubber part of the new gear oil seal. Apply a light coat of gear oil to the outside of the new pinion seal.

    • 9
      Place the new pinion seal against the axle housing and tap it into place using a hammer and seal-installing tool or a large socket that is the same size as the outside diameter of the new seal. Make sure the new seal is completely seated against the axle housing.

    • 10
      Line up the pinion yoke with the painted mark and push on the yoke as far as possible. Install the washer (if it had one) and nut. Tighten the nut with the breaker bar and socket to draw the yoke onto the pinion shaft. After the pinion yoke is fully seated on the shaft, use a torque wrench to tighten the pinion nut to 200 ft.-lbs. while holding the yoke with a pipe wrench.

    • 11
      Switch over to the inch-pound torque wrench and turn the pinion nut. Note the amount of pressure required to turn the nut. At this point the pressure will be less than what you wrote down. Switch back to the torque wrench and increase the torque by 5 ft.-lbs, to 205 ft.-lbs. After obtaining 205 ft.-lbs. of torque, recheck with the inch-pound torque wrench. Keep switching back and forth, increasing the torque by 5 ft.-lbs. until you obtain the same inch-pound force required to originally turn the pinion nut.

    • 12
      Replace the driveshaft and U-joint in the yoke by lining up the marks you painted on the U-joint cap and yoke. Reinstall the u-bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts.

    • 13
      Raise the vehicle, remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-4676-a111/overview/make/ford
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys for the info. I hope to do a complete rebuild someday, but for now, the seal replacement will get me on the road without make a mess of the car.
 
I don't know where my head was today, because I didn't measure or
mark anything about the pinion. I've read that it should have between
10-30 inch/lbs to turn, so that what I'm going to do.

The yoke came off easy with just a few taps and didn't have any groove,
so I reused it. Seal came out reasonably easy, just took several minutes
to work my way all around the seal.

FP01_ReplacingAxle&PinionSeals_6100.jpg

FP01_PinionSealRemoved_6097.jpg

I had oil on the right backing plate, so when I pulled the wheels and brake
drum I peeled the wheel cylinder dust cover back. It was completely dry, so
I had to have a leaking axle seal. So my plan to replace the pinions seal just
expanded to both axle seals also.

To get the axles out I had to remove the 4 bolts that retain the axles.

FP01_AxleRetainerBolts_6099.jpg

The right axle is about 3 inches longer than the right side.

FP01_AxlesCompare_6101.jpg

Both seal surfaces were good. Nothing deep enough to catch a finger nail on,
just a very light depression. The axle bearing spun smoothly, so I'm good to
go there.

FP01_AxleSealLeft_6103.jpg

FP01_AxleSealRight_6102.jpg

I have a parking brake on the left wheel only and it's the only way I
have to hold the rear end while tightening the pinion nut without
help. So I tried it, but the traction lock would break loose at about
150 ft/lbs of torque. Wonder how that compares to others!

What do I use to replace the fluid lost during the seal replacements???
Where do I get it??? If I understand correctly, there is a friction modifier
that I need to add to regular rear end fluid.
 
BOB was over and took one look at those pictures and said..."
"theres the problem!
one of his axles is too short, how could he miss that!"
I almost had the soda I was drinking choke me, I was laughing so hard!
 
I would sure hate to see you die choking on a comment about my pics. That would just be terrible! :rolleyes:

He might have been correct, if my problem was the car would only go in circles!!! hehehehe:cool:
 
Use OEM FORD LIMITED SLIP FRICTION MODIFIER RICK.
ITS THE VERY BEST AVAILABLE .

DETROIT LOCKER IS SUPPOSED TO USE CONVENTIONAL GEAR OIL TYPICAL.
NO LIMITED SLIP ADDITIVE REQUIRED UNLESS RECOMMENDED NOW.
 
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