pre-prime the oil passages on a new engine or cam swap

[grumpyvette]

ITS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that you pre-prime the oil system filter and oil passages on a new engine, with an oil pump primer tool, that has the proper configuration, while you rotate the engine slowly by hand ,and ideally at least try to get the rockers correctly adjusted,during the process, until all the push-rods are flowing oil to the rockers, and lifter lash clearance's or lifter preload, look's correct and that you verify oil flows from each rocker, the simple pre-check can save you from an in creditable amount of problems if done correctly, and if you pay attention to indications something may be binding or clearances or the valve train geometry are not right.
OBVIOUSLY valve train,clearances and valve train geometry, and push rod length etc. should have been verified long before this point.
remember the lower distributor housing forms the wall of one oil passage, without it in place only half the lifters get oil , so your better off using an oil pump priming tool with the lower oil band support or one made from and old distributor with the gear teeth ground off the lower gear, and electric drills tend to over heat under the loads so use an air ratchet and a brazed on socket on the upper shaft on the modified distributor housing,to spin the priming tool if you have the option

adding "ST" to the end of the existing melling part number denotes the helical gear set option


watch the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdIGZ-tV ... re=related
ACCORDING TO CRANE CAMS
"
Big Block Chevrolets have an oil-priming idiosyncrasy. When priming a Big Block Chevy with a drill motor and
priming tool, it is often necessary to prime for as much as 20 minutes (while rotating the engine) to get oil to all
of the lifters and rockers. It is advisable to prime these engines with the valve covers removed so you can
check to see oil coming out of all of the rocker arms before firing the engine. This last step is advisable on all
engines, but particularly on Big Block Chevrolets"

this type above is nearly WORTHLESS, as it leave one complete oil gallery passage open and UN-pressurized, as the seated distributor shaft forms one wall of the lifter gallery oil passage on one bank

this type bellow works just fine

the correct oil pump primer tool duplicates the distributor body and seals the oil passages

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
they are dirt cheap or you can make one from and old distributor

be sure you turn the engine over at least two full turns while applying pressure to and lubing the oil passages to get full access to all the lifters,rockers,bearings etc.

many guys use a drill to spin the primer tool but thats a good way to burn up a drill, an air ratchet works better in my experience
"Why is the first one worthless?"

LOOK CLOSELY, the top primer has no collar to keep the drive shaft centered over the pump so it can slightly mis-align and bind, Ive seen them bend the pump drive if guys get them mis-aligned and just throw a high torque 1/2 drill on and spin them without checking, the lower primer has an alignment collar that tends to keep things from breaking,,yes both have the alignment collar for the manifold but only the botom one has the lower block support and alignment sleeve that forms the lower oil passage wall, and the drive collar that assure the oil pump drive itself is lined up correctly,keep in mind,the bottom of the stock distributor forms one wall of the main oil passage to one side of the engine, without that passage wall in place you get no oil pressure to one side and darn little to the other due to the HUGE leak the missing oil passage wall presents, the lower distributor is temporarily replaced with that extra aluminum on the lower primer to simulate the correct oil passage config....THATS WHY!

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=615

you MUST rotate the engine thru two complete revolutions (720 DEGREES)MINIMUM, and SEVERAL TIMES THAT MANY TIMES IS ADVISED before every oil passage in every part is fully seeing the oil flow from the pump! that one lifter/pushrod may be in the part of the 720 degree cycle where little or no oil supply feeds it, try rotating the engine bye hand with a breaker bar slowly, 720 degrees while a buddy applies full oil pressure with the drill on the oil pump primer tool, before worrying about it!a rod driving the oil pump may never build sufficient oil pressure to get oil to the rocker arms, because the distributor shaft forms part of the wall of the oil feed gallery, an oil pump primer tool must look like this, having the lower distributor housing to seal the passage so that pressure can build through the whole system
putting a load on the rings and bearings with no oil flow or oil pressure to replace the assembly lube that's most likely being forced off those surfaces during those first few seconds, and yes for a short time,yes you can do it that way but there is less stress on the engine doing it CORRECTLY by pre-filling all the oil passages and oil filter with oil and getting oil pressure to the bearings the instant the engine starts turning! theres lots of things that you can GET AWAY WITH,WITHOUT OBVIOUS DAMAGE, but doing things CORRECTLY in most cases is by far the better plan,look Im not saying you CAN,T just hit the starter and spin the engine with the coil wire removed till you read oil pressure,BUT, I am saying that there are valid reasons for doing it correctly (PRE LUBE,& prefill the lube passages) that might not show up instantly but do show up under long term evaluation of the results

read thru these threads

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm«

http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4537&p=13350#p13350

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1280&p=2741#p2741

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1057&p=2009#p2009

 

[grumpyvette]

"Ive seen lots of guys say that just removing the coil wire and spinning the new engine with the starter to prime the engine works fine, and that priming with the tool is really a waste of effort because all the oil shortly drains back to the oil pan in any case!"
IT should be obvious that you'll need to pre-prime the blocks oil passages and adjust the rockers so oil flows from the rockers with the engine being pre-primed with a priming tool being used BEFORE trying to start any engine with a new cam to insure oil flow begins instantly on the engines start-up,you WON,T get oil to all lifters equally unless the engines crank & cam are spinning,(so during testing spin the engine slowly with a breaker bar or ratchet), because the oil passages feeding the lifters aligns differently at different lifts,your oil leak at the distributor base is normal, but the clearances and flow may be excessive, with a priming tool, some are not nearly to spec. ID measure the diam. of the oil pump primer and then measure the distributor base, Id bet the distributor base is larger and fits better, which reduces the potential for leakage.
If your not getting oil flow from the rockers and a gauge reading a minimum of about 10 psi during the pre-prime process, Id suspect the oil pressure gauge is faulty, use of a separate test gauge would be a good idea

BTW its generally a good idea to pack the gears in any new oil pump with a 50%/50% mixed tablespoon of Valvoline and assembly lube as the slimy lube mix on the gears surface helps to seal clearances and increase the pumps suction on first starting the engine or priming the engine with the priming tool, and its washed out and disperses within a few seconds but it makes the engine far easier to prime

Id also suggest you swap to a quality oil filter of a different brand than you have currently because some filters have been known to restrict oil flow

http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil ... erralID=NA

those bottom two bands form a wall on the oil passage, some guys cut a rounded grove and install an O-RING so the upper band seals too the block, you don,t want to do that to the lower band simply because that's the oil flow source to the distributor /cam gear
20 psi is about normal for your typical 3/8 drill,max pressure is not nearly as important as checking flow, and for leaks where there should not be leaks, with an engine primer tool,Ive brazed a socket to the top of my oil pump primer and use the 1/2" drive air ratchet to drive it, it won,t heat up and burn up like a electric drill will.
don,t get alarmed if you get zero pressure or flow for a few seconds,(the oil filter and passages need to fill first) that's one reason WHY your pre-priming, to get oil flow to the bearings instantly on start up , you don,t want them running without oil flow if you can prevent it even for 20 seconds

first ILL point out that a QUALITY oil filter has an ANTI DRAIN BACK VALVE so the passages in the block filled with the oil pump primer will remain full and they don,t (DRAIN BACK INTO THE OIL PAN)
next, ONE reason its strongly suggested you prime the engine with an oil pump primer is to look for oil leaks, if you use the starter you can pump several QUARTS in a few seconds time onto the garage floor,WALLS OR CEILING)(DEPENDS OF SEVERAL FACTORS) but during the priming process you perform several functions, one is you rotate the engines rotating assemble slowly by hand as you push oil up the passages, lifters, push rods and rocker,s during the process you can FEEL clearance issues or parts binding with low load rates on the parts,if you use a starter the first indicator is bent or busted valve train components rather than the engine becoming slightly more difficult to turn by hand, one route allows you to check why,before proceeding, and possibly allows you to tear it down to check something you forgot to do correctly, the other allows you to tear it down and replace expensive bent or broken components
yes you can remove the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter,to prime the engine, but its taking away one of those golden opportunities to find and correct screw ups


BTW
ideally you'll have used a torque wrench on the short block before its assembled into a long block and have LESS than 40 lbs of force MAXIMUM necessary to turn it over (MORE INDICATES clearance issues/ like bearing clearance or ring gap PROBLEMS)and actually CHECKED ALL THE CLEARANCES AND VALVE TRAIN GEOMETRY

the correct oil pump primer tool duplicates the distributor body and seals the oil passages

just a tip,if you've got a quality priming tool or have made one from a old distributor,

and if you've got a decent air compressor, that will supply air ratchet tools, you can braze a large threaded rod coupling nut,

to the upper tool central shaft and use the air ratchet,with a deep six point socket, which will tend to spin those prime tools far easier without the tendency to over heat like some electric drills

IF your not getting oil to the rockers,
Id suggest two quick checks first, replace your oil filter, as they can be defective and block flow,while its off inspect the spin on oil filter adapter plate

and verify your oil levels at the correct level on the dipstick, [color]then loosen ALL the rocker arms until they are loose enough to click at idle, and use a pre-luber[/color]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-901010/?rtype=10

to furnish the oil pressure without putting any wear on the bearings as you slowly rotate the crank to allow oil to flow easily

READ THESE

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=3536


viewtopic.php?f=54&t=3376

viewforum.php?f=54&start=25

[color]you DO REALIZE THAT THE BASE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR OR PRE_OILER , MUST look like the one above
because it FORMS a wall in the lower lifter gallery oil passage[/color]


if you use a pre-oiler or oil pump drive like these below, theres a huge internal leak and youll never get much oil flow

 

[grumpyvette]

theres also the option of using an accumulator.

you can make an oil priming tool easy enough from a section of 3" pvc pipe a couple end caps, a shrader valve and a ball valve, some flex hose etc, or weld up something similar or buy the accumulator below, that allows you to screw the hose that will allow you to force oil into the hole above the oil filter where the oil temp sensor normally goes , you fill the pvc pipe with oil, hold it vertically with the lower end having the flex tube to the block., open the valve and let gravity allow oil to drain into the oil passages, then apply 20 psi of air pressure and it will force the rests of the oil into the block so you don,t need to remove the distributor.

Accumulators
Thor Schroeder: "Moroso oil accumulators are hydraulic cylinders with billet aluminum end caps that store oil under pressure, providing an instantaneous supply of oil and releasing it to the oil system when the pressure drops below a safe level. An accumulator can be tapped to the pressure side of the engine's oiling system, or tee'd into the return line of an oil cooler. We offer sandwich adapters that mount between the block and oil filter to make this easy. When the engine is running, oil pressure forces reserve oil into the accumulator and compresses the air ahead. If the engine's oil pressure should suddenly drop because of hard acceleration, severe cornering, or hard braking the air pressure immediately sends oil to the main galleys. When the danger is over and the oil pump is once again primed with oil, the pressure forces oil back into the accumulator where it is ready for the next emergency. Moroso offers different sizes of accumulators and valving options to meet the racer's needs. For an accumulator to function properly it needs a valve assembly. The valve has to be manually opened by hand before starting the car to pre-lube the engine and manually closed before turning the engine off. As an option, Moroso offers solenoid pressure valve kits in different oil pressure ranges.

"While many people associate accumulators with road race applications, Moroso sells more of them to drag racers than any other market. For drag racing, an accumulator is beneficial for pre-lubing the engine before start-up. Independent tests have shown that on street cars, over 85 percent of engine wear is caused by starting an engine. During hard acceleration, an accumulator would be beneficial in guarding against oil pressure fluctuations and during shut down, braking, and sudden deceleration. Drag racers have also used accumulators to free up horsepower by running less oil in the oil pan or using accumulators in classes that have oil pan limitations."

Oil System Tech From Industry Insiders Gasket
Mike Zeranski Jr.: "Canton's Accusump oil accumulator system provides engine pre-oiling and protection against oil pressure surges by accumulating oil from the engine then discharging it back when needed, and doesn't requires a separate pump to fill it with oil. Instead, the Accusump system uses your engine's own oil pressure to fill and naturally discharges back when that oil pressure drops. Engine pre-oiling is easily achieved by closing the Accusump valve just before engine shuts down and opening it back up to release oil just before the next start-up. Available in four sizes and with six different valve options, the Accusump system can be tailored to meet your exact needs. Built to withstand years of hard racing, its main body is built from an aluminum hydraulic cylinder that features a double-sealed billet aluminum piston to separate the air and oil inside the Accusump. In addition, it features thread-on billet aluminum end caps for added strength, a Schrader valve for adjusting the air pre-charge, a 160-psi air gauge, and a safety release valve to protect against extreme unit pressure.

some of them (accumulators )can be manually pre-filled with 1-2 quarts of oil and have a shop air compressor on a shrader valve used to supply 20 psi to force oil into the blocks oil passages,
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23930/10002/-1?CT=999

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0911-small-block-chevy-oil-pumps/

this allows you to leave the distributor in place and have the timing correct while you manually adjust rockers and see oil flow from push rods as you manually turn the engine over during the pre-fiire-up process, some are nitrogen filled and can only be filled with pressurized oil.

Low Cost Priming Tank

I prime the oil system in every engine I build. It’s cheap and easy insurance against a dry start. A 2.5-gallon paint pressure tank makes an excellent priming tank at a fraction of the cost of a purpose-built unit. As an added bonus, the entire top comes off so it is easy to clean out as needed. Now even the crank driven oil pump engines are easy to prime.
http://www.zoro.com/dayton-paint-ta...gclid=CIa_ssKAtsoCFQ8yaQodav0LRw&gclsrc=aw.ds

Brad Stephens

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-gallon-pressure-paint-tank-66839.html

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23930/10002/-1?CT=999

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categoryd ... code=13600

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi ... egory=2410

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_ ... n=category

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techartic ... index.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-on-a-new-engine-or-cam-swap.985/#post-18690

theres no reason you could not fabricate something similar dirt cheap

https://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed-Power...MIw4fqhLSd4AIVmUwNCh3sLgfnEAQYASABEgLVl_D_BwE

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/video-building-a-homemade-ls-pre-oiler/

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0906-budget-pressure-luber-build/

https://www.summitracing.com/search...MI_KiJtbSd4AIVjorICh0zoQM7EAMYASAAEgIhT_D_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI6JqqwrOd4AIViZ-fCh1_XAZlEAYYASABEgKGtvD_BwE

re-Lube Engine Oiler Tank

New Pre-Lube Engine Oiler tank tool now available!

Part # MPL-101

A MUST HAVE TOOL TO PRE-LUBE ENGINES

• Eliminates dry starts after engine rebuilds
• Eliminates initial wear on engine components
• Can be used on all internal combustion engines


Click here to Download FULL PDF Product Release

Additional Info:

The newest addition to Melling’s offering is a pre-lube tank. This design is necessary because of the inability to prime the oiling system in today’s modern engine with the oil pump mounted over the crankshaft. We did not need this in older engines because you could use the tools provided by Melling and a common drill to turn the pump and prime the system.

Here is some more details about the tank:


The size of the whole unit is about ½ the size of your gas grill propane tank.
Normal engine oil is used to fill the tank. (use the oil that will be used to break in the engine)
The tank will hold 4 quarts maximum. Usually 3 quarts is sufficient to fill the engine. The tank even has a dipstick.
The tank is then pressurized using your air compressor.
Included with the unit are the most popular two adaptors to fit most engines. 1/8th x 1/8th and 1/8th x ¼ are the two sizes included.
The adaptor is installed on the engine and then screwed to the hose from the tank.
The fill vale is turned and in a very short period of time oil will be flowing from the valvetrain area of the engine. The prime is complete. Fill the engine with oil, complete the build and start an engine that will live for a long time. You will not suffer from dry

re-Lube Engine Oiler Tank

New Pre-Lube Engine Oiler tank tool now available!

Part # MPL-101

A MUST HAVE TOOL TO PRE-LUBE ENGINES

• Eliminates dry starts after engine rebuilds
• Eliminates initial wear on engine components
• Can be used on all internal combustion engines


Click here to Download FULL PDF Product Release

Additional Info:

The newest addition to Melling’s offering is a pre-lube tank. This design is necessary because of the inability to prime the oiling system in today’s modern engine with the oil pump mounted over the crankshaft. We did not need this in older engines because you could use the tools provided by Melling and a common drill to turn the pump and prime the system.

Here is some more details about the tank:


The size of the whole unit is about ½ the size of your gas grill propane tank.
Normal engine oil is used to fill the tank. (use the oil that will be used to break in the engine)
The tank will hold 4 quarts maximum. Usually 3 quarts is sufficient to fill the engine. The tank even has a dipstick.
The tank is then pressurized using your air compressor.
Included with the unit are the most popular two adaptors to fit most engines. 1/8th x 1/8th and 1/8th x ¼ are the two sizes included.
The adaptor is installed on the engine and then screwed to the hose from the tank.
The fill vale is turned and in a very short period of time oil will be flowing from the valvetrain area of the engine. The prime is complete. Fill the engine with oil, complete the build and start an engine that will live for a long time. You will not suffer from dry

 

[grumpyvette]

GRUMPY?
I have purchased a car with an engine that has only put about 20 miles on it. if that, It's a 350 block, alum. heads, trick flow push rods, comp. cams roller rockers. The cam is hydraulic, a new mechanical oil pressure gauge reads 50lbs plus at warm idle. It had a slight "tap" when I got it on the left (drivers side), thinking it was needing rockers adjusted, I pulled the valve cover on that side only. Found it had hydraulic cam, based on not being able to insert feeler gauge on any rocker. The cam sounds pretty radical, though I can't make any guess as to what grind. I adjust rockers, crank it, not much change in "tap". I pulled cover and tried again, as I said, long time from doing any of this. When I finished the 2nd time, the tap was still there. The motor sounds great, but I thought the adjustment would help. I pulled the cover a third time, trying to figure out the source. I cranked the engine with valve cover off, and have no oil thru pushrods. There is a small amount of oil in the head, just don't know where it came from. Tips of pushrods are shiny, but not grooved as I would have thought. I backed the nut off on 3-4, but got nothing. I've read here and other sites on others problems and solutions provided. I've tried most of the remedies provided, including those posted here, ( grumpyvette I think, has a lot of good info on this, thank you sir) So, I have #1: Loosened nuts to chatter, #2: pulled timing cover, chain & gear, gallery plugs are in front, and when I crank the motor, spray oil out thru grill. #3: Pulled inspection cover on trans., no leak from rear plug.#4: Pulled oil filter, opened it with a sawzall (yeah I'm a country boy) it had some junk, but nothing that says it's full of silicone. As I was cutting it open, I saw 2 pieces of silicone, but have no idea if they were from the filter. I doubt it, as they were 1 1/2 inches long. Junk filter, Pennzoil.#5: Pulled bypass where it bolts to block. I have no idea what it should look like, but it has a set screw that I assume is where , somehow, the oil is returned.#6:Engine HAD an MSD distributor when this guy bought it. He had someone install engine in this truck, and pulled the performance stuff.So the dizzy was an HEI from the engine in truck previously. When I got it, I saw all the parts that came w it, and bought them as well, but somehow the MSD dizzy disappeared by the weekend when I got truck. The dizzy in truck was at least 2 teeth off, so I reset dizzy first day I got it. Anyway,now I pulled the HEI out, got another old one, removed the gear, installed it into block, and spun it up , trying to get oil to heads. I only spun it to 25lbs pressure as my impact has a blown o ring, and wouldnt do more. I got oil out front gallery holes,as well as to gauge, but still none to either head/pushrods. Yes, now I have both valve covers off. This is a supposedly pro built engine, and has all the parts to indicate same ( alum heads, arp head bolts, 8 qt race pan, etc)but I'm lost as to why I still have no oil to heads. Tomorrow I'll have a new impact and can turn pump longer as well as faster. Sorry this is so long, but wanted to tell you all I could. Any suggestions?? Thanks for looking.[/quote]

I'm looking into upgrading my rocker arms on my 454 from the stock stamped steel units. I have 3 different brands in mind that have a 1.8 ratio. All three are about $3 difference in price. The brands are Harland sharp, Howard's (both of these are aluminum) and then the crower enduro which are stainless steel.

the crower steel units will have a longer fatigue life and the bearing trunions are replaceable so they can be rebuilt after 60K-80K

,Fatigue limit, endurance limit, and fatigue strength are all expressions used to describe a property of materials: the amplitude (or range) of cyclic stress that can be applied to the material without causing fatigue failure.[1] Ferrous alloys and titanium alloys[2] have a distinct limit, an amplitude below which there appears to be no number of cycles that will cause failure. Other structural metals such as aluminium and copper, do not have a distinct limit and will eventually fail even from small stress amplitudes. In these cases, a number of cycles (usually 107) is chosen to represent the fatigue life of the material.

THAT sure sounds like one or more of the oil gallery plugs are missing or fell out,or the cam bearings were installed wrong, oil should noT SPRAY thru the GRILL or your engine has the wrong or defective lifters or the distributor/oil pump drive shafts the wrong one its a bit too long and that allows the distributor to not fully seat and seal the oil passage I wish you were local things like this are easy to diagnose on site but a P.IT.A. over the internet, Id suggest starting by backing ALL the rockers off until they click lightly and use an AIR ratchet on the oil pump prime tool and the TOOL must be the type with the lower band that seals the oil passages look thru and read the links

watch the video

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

the correct oil pump primer tool duplicates the distributor body and seals the oil passages.
you MUST manually rotate the crank , a MINIMUM of at least two full revolutions while priming the oil passages to insure all the lifters and push rods get full acess to presurized oil flow

READ THRU THESE LINKS
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4537

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=52

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=3834

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4537&p=13350&hilit=priming#p13350

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=117

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=123

 

[grumpyvette]

GRUMPY? I borrowed a tank type pre-oiler from the auto parts store. They didn't have the type that looks like a modified distributor. I've never seen anything like this before and I'm not sure how to use it.

http://www.melling.com/Aftermarket/High ... -Lube-Tank

http://www.mellingengine.com/Portals/5/ ... ricing.pdf

now that you know such a product/tool exists I can,t see any reason a 3" diam. 3 foot long section of schedule 80 PVC pipe , with a screw on cap on the upper end and a glued on lower cap, with a couple adapter fittings and hoses could not be partly filled with new oil and have an air fitting on the upper cap set up so you could first fill the pipe with several quarts of oil, screw on the cap, apply 10-12 psi of air pressure with a compressor to the area over the oil, too force oil into all the interior oil passages and bearings thru one of the oil sensor connection threaded holes in the block, thru a lower drain hose and adapters you bought at a local hardware or hydraulic supply shop.

re-Lube Engine Oiler Tank

New Pre-Lube Engine Oiler tank tool now available!

Part # MPL-101

A MUST HAVE TOOL TO PRE-LUBE ENGINES

• Eliminates dry starts after engine rebuilds
• Eliminates initial wear on engine components
• Can be used on all internal combustion engines


Click here to Download FULL PDF Product Release

Additional Info:

The newest addition to Melling’s offering is a pre-lube tank. This design is necessary because of the inability to prime the oiling system in today’s modern engine with the oil pump mounted over the crankshaft. We did not need this in older engines because you could use the tools provided by Melling and a common drill to turn the pump and prime the system.

Here is some more details about the tank:


The size of the whole unit is about ½ the size of your gas grill propane tank.
Normal engine oil is used to fill the tank. (use the oil that will be used to break in the engine)
The tank will hold 4 quarts maximum. Usually 3 quarts is sufficient to fill the engine. The tank even has a dipstick.
The tank is then pressurized using your air compressor.
Included with the unit are the most popular two adaptors to fit most engines. 1/8th x 1/8th and 1/8th x ¼ are the two sizes included.
The adaptor is installed on the engine and then screwed to the hose from the tank.
The fill vale is turned and in a very short period of time oil will be flowing from the valvetrain area of the engine. The prime is complete. Fill the engine with oil, complete the build and start an engine that will live for a long time. You will not suffer from dry

having a few tools designed to easily rotate the engine on hand helps
crank rotators

flywheel turning tools

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80743/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&itemPerPage=90&Ne=1+2+3+13+1147708&searchTerm=55580530


The instructions say:

It says to open the valve for 3 seconds, then it also says to make sure to turn the engine over one complete turn. Then it says to close the valve. That would take longer than 3 seconds, so I'm not sure why there is a time mentioned.

Is this thing supposed to add 5 quarts of oil in just a few seconds? I just don't understand how it is supposed to work.

http://www.melling.com/Aftermarket/High ... eTank.aspx
MELLING SELLS THOSE TYPE ENGINE PRE_OILERS PART #MPL-101

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-MPL-101/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Melling/689/MPL-101/10002/-1



in most cases theres a place to open to add oil, a hose with a valve and a place to add air pressure with a gauge, you simply pour in several quarts of oil, seal the canister, put 30-40psi of air pressure on the tank, the pressurized air above the oil is used to force oil in the canister under pressure into the oil passages forcing out any air and pre-lubing the bearings and rockers
most guys hook it up here
they temporarily remove the Engine Oil Temperature Sensor. Left rear of engine, just above the oil filter, but remember the distributor must be in place because its base forms one wall of the lifter oil passage so you won,t get full oil flow without it in place.

read this thread

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1280

now obviously if the tubing connected to the canisters clear you can see oil flowing so you can turn it off is air enters the tubing
you can also very easily fabricate a really nice BUILD IT YOURSELF PRE-OILER with a few easily accessed parts and a welder

if you store an engine for several years its common for the oil passages to drain in storage, so youll need to re-prime the engine before use and changing the oil and oil filter is almost mandatory,if your not getting oil to the rockers during the priming operation
thats fairly common on engines that sat for years. ID strongly suggest pulling both valve covers and adding a quart of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL poured over the rockers on both sides to provide lube and then backing off the rocker nuts about 1-2 full turns then rotate the engine several times manually, then try priming the engine again, as theres a good chance the lifters push-rod seats were either stuck or not properly adjusted, once you start getting oil to the rockers re-instal the distributor time the engine and set the valves at idle

Low Cost Priming Tank

I prime the oil system in every engine I build. It’s cheap and easy insurance against a dry start. A 2.5-gallon paint pressure tank makes an excellent priming tank at a fraction of the cost of a purpose-built unit. As an added bonus, the entire top comes off so it is easy to clean out as needed. Now even the crank driven oil pump engines are easy to prime.
http://www.zoro.com/dayton-paint-ta...gclid=CIa_ssKAtsoCFQ8yaQodav0LRw&gclsrc=aw.ds

Brad Stephens

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-gallon-pressure-paint-tank-66839.html

you DO REALIZE THAT THE BASE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR OR PRE_OILER , MUST look like the one above
because it FORMS a wall in the lower lifter gallery oil passage
READ THIS

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=196

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=985&p=18690&hilit=cam+bearings#p18690

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4537

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=985&p=18301&hilit=cam+bearings#p18301

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

 

[grumpyvette]

Priming oil pressure is 70 lbs. I am using a Milwaukee magnum 1/2 drill (850 rpm). VR1 10w-30 oil. Pump is an old style Melling M77hv I already had. The bypass spring in the pump looked to be the standard pressure spring. Do I need to tear back into the motor and change the bypass spring or will it be ok the way it is. Thanks

ok first Id point out that the oil pressure you see on the gauge is the result of the RESISTANCE to oil flow through the oil passage and bearing clearances which WILL increase ( oil flow rates) as the oil heats up and viscosity drops off.
oil pressure your reaching with thick oil in a cool engine without the rotating assembly rotating is NOT going to be anyway a true reflection of the oil flow rates youll see once the engine reaches operational temps.
next Id point out the REASON you pre-prime an engine is to both insure far faster oil flow reaching the bearings on start-up and to verify all the oil passage plugs are installed, all the rockers get oil flow,and clearances are in the ball park.
Id also point out that ELECTRIC drills tend to over heat under low speed high torque loads so manually spinning the pump or use of an air ratchet is preferred.
so the short answer here IS I DOUBT THERES ANY PROBLEM, but ID also rotate the crank at least 4 full rotations and verify oil flows from ALL the push rods
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oil-passages-and-improved-oil-flow-mods.3834/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-a-chevy-oil-pump.6479/

NOTICE THE EXHAUST ROCKER #6 in the picture below is not flowing oil thus you would check WHY and probably need to increase the adjustment clearance or clean the plugged push rod

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-pumps-pressure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/

Oil categories:

*** Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection

*** 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection

*** 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection

*** Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIREABLE



********** OUTSTANDING PROTECTION ************


1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 115,612 psi
I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. The bottle says, “No leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection”. For once, a product’s hype turns out to be true.
zinc = 806 ppm
phos = 812 ppm
moly = 66 ppm

2. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phos = 3489 ppm
moly = 1764 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

3. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi
zinc = 801 ppm
phos = 842 ppm
moly = 112 ppm

4. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN = 105,008 psi
zinc = 824 ppm
phos = 960 ppm
moly = 161 ppm


******* 10% below number 1 = 104,051 psi ********


5. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
zinc = 1669 ppm
phos = 1518 ppm
moly = 784 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

6. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN = 103,517 psi
zinc = 606 ppm
phos = 742 ppm
moly = 28 ppm

7. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

8. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
moly = 162 ppm

9. 5W30 Chevron Supreme conventional, API SN = 100,011 psi
This one only costs $4.29 per quart at the Auto Parts Store where I bought it.
zinc = 1018 ppm
phos = 728 ppm
moly = 161 ppm

10. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 99,983 psi
zinc = 1042 ppm
phos = 857 ppm
moly = 100 ppm
titanium = 49 ppm


11. 20W50 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 96,514 psi
zinc = 610 ppm
phos = 754 ppm
moly = 94 ppm

12. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil = 96,470 psi
zinc = 2207 ppm
phos = 2052 ppm
moly = 1235 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

13. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN = 96,364 psi
zinc = 742 ppm
phos = 677 ppm
moly = 81 ppm

14. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN = 95,920 psi
zinc = 877 ppm
phos = 921 ppm
moly = 72 ppm

15. 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 95,717 psi
zinc = 818 ppm
phos = 883 ppm
moly = 90 ppm
titanium = 44 ppm

16. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 NASCAR Racing Oil = 95,543 psi
zinc = 743 ppm
phos = 802 ppm
moly = 1125 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

17. 5W20 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,543 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
NOTE: Oil numbers 16 and 17 were tested weeks apart, but due to the similarities in their wear scar sizes, their averages ended up the same.

18. 5W30 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,392 psi
zinc = 830 ppm
phos = 791 ppm
moly = 1 ppm

19. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi
zinc = 1431 ppm
phos = 1441 ppm
moly = 52 ppm

20. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,942 psi
zinc = 969 ppm
phos = 761 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

21. 5W30 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 94,744 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

22. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN = 94,663 psi
zinc = 764 ppm
phos = 698 ppm
moly = 76 ppm

23. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,460 psi
zinc = 1045 ppm
phos = 742 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

******** 20% below number 1 = 92,490 psi ********

24. 5W30 Lucas conventional, API SN = 92,073 psi
zinc = 992 ppm
phos = 760 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

25. 5W30 O'Reilly (house brand) conventional, API SN = 91,433 psi
This one only costs $3.99 per quart at the Auto Parts Store where I bought it.
zinc = 863 ppm
phos = 816 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

26. 5W30 Red Line, API SN = 91,028 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

27. 5W20 Royal Purple API SN = 90,434 psi
zinc = 964 ppm
phos = 892 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

28. 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL (semi-synthetic) = 90,226 psi
zinc = 1221 ppm
phos = 955 ppm
moly = 99 ppm

29. 5W20 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 90,144 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD


************ GOOD PROTECTION **********


30. 30 wt Castrol Heavy Duty conventional, API SM = 88,089 psi
zinc = 907 ppm
phos = 829 ppm
moly = 56 ppm

31. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi
zinc = 1247 ppm
phos = 1137 ppm
moly = 24 ppm

32. 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 86,034 psi
I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

33. 5W30 Royal Purple API SN = 84,009 psi
zinc = 942 ppm
phos = 817 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

34. 20W50 Royal Purple API SN = 83,487 psi
zinc = 588 ppm
phos = 697 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

35. 20W50 Kendall GT-1 High Performance with liquid titanium, (conventional) API SN = 83,365 psi
zinc = 991 ppm
phos = 1253 ppm
moly = 57 ppm
titanium = 84 ppm

36. 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN = 83,263 psi
zinc = 890 ppm
phos = 819 ppm
moly = 104 ppm

37. 0W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 82,867 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

******** 30% below number 1 = 80,928 psi ********

38. 5W30 GM's AC Delco dexos 1 (semi-synthetic) API SN = 76,501 psi
zinc = 878 ppm
phos = 758 ppm
moly = 72 ppm



**************** MODEST PROTECTION ************


39. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi
zinc = 1421 ppm
phos = 1338 ppm
moly = 204 ppm
NOTE: This particular bottle of oil was just opened, but was out of a 3 ½ year old case.

40. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ (conventional) = 73,176 psi
zinc = 1325ppm
phos = 1234 ppm
moly = 2 ppm

41. Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Nitro 70 Racing Oil (semi-synthetic) = 72,003 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

42. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi
zinc = 1621 ppm
phos = 1437 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

43. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi
zinc = 1557 ppm
phos = 1651 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

44. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi
zinc = 1,133 ppm
phos = 1,168 ppm
moly = 83 ppm

******** 40% below number 1 = 69,367 psi ********

45. 5W30 Motorcraft, API SN = 68,782 psi
zinc = 796 ppm
phos = 830 ppm
moly = 75 ppm

46. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi
zinc = 1774 ppm
phos = 1347 ppm
moly = 189 ppm

47. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi
zinc = 1154 ppm
phos = 1075 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

48. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi
zinc = 1170 ppm
phos = 1039 ppm
moly = 0 ppm