Hey all,
I was not sure where to post this as it doesn't fit in any particular area. It's isn't supercharge; it isn't wiring; it isn't water/meth injection; it isn't trans related. It is all of the above. It's a blog documenting my peripecies as I prepare for my next race... That's IT! Shouldn't we have a racing area? Where we blog as we prep for races?
Since the last race, a few issues have cropped up: the steering wheel won't lock and I cannot get my key out of the ignition
, after a while in heavy traffic I get close to overheating, and very rich at WOT.
I replaced the exhaust gasket with one that is more restrictive, but at least it SHUTS UP! The gasket better fits the headers rather than the heads.
The rich at WOT is off to me as I tuned this on a dyno last year. The only thing that changed was the rotating assy that has deeper piston dishes. That and the centrifugal blower might be slipping. In anycase, I need to replace the belt as it lost 4 of its 12 ribs rubbing against the powersteering pulley. I eed to move the PS pulley out of the way somehow before replacing the belt - then I'll put in an adjust-a-jet secondary plate on the carb.
The near overheating, that I experienced this morning going to work, occurs after about an hour of slow stop and go traffic. The secondary puller eletric fan (18 amps) shuts down! My guess: it is the automatic circuit breaker. The primary fan (near 40 amps if I recall correctly), a pusher, is a heavy duty unit from a Ford truck. It works GREAT! I think the water pump might be getting old as well... moving from stationary to 20 mph (1500 rpm) and the temp drops from <200 to 185. The secondary fan might be a bit of a cheapo.
As for the rest...
To kick off, here are the things I need to do over the year as I prep for the next race:
A = short term, B = medium term, C = long term.
A- Replace my 1-inch master cylinder with a 15/16* (I need to stop!)
C - Take it to a dyno and tune
A - Install the blow off valve.
A - fix steering wheel lock
A - Reconnect the wiring for my electric trans temp and trans pressure gauges
B - Ensure water/meth injection circuit is operating smoothly + underhood LED works
A - Replace cabin dome light and cover
B - Put healights on relays
A - Raise rev limit
C - Rebuild rear end. Details TBD
C - Get it to hook
A - Get knock sensor back on line
A - Get the under hood idiot light running again: temp/fans + line lock + water meth LED
A - Get TCC circuit running again
A - Get onboard A/F gauge running again
B - Get that adjust-a-jet plate and basic tune with my dual wide-band O2 sensor
B - Get a keyless lock
A - Get gauge lights working
A - Find rattle at hot idle (water pump?)
C - Get cheapo race rims
B - Get body shop to attend to some rust issues.
A - Get that @#$%@# relay center stuck to the dash... the velcro keeps coming off and making a sticky mess on the dash.
As you see a lot of As but many of them small jobs.
* Currently emergency stop only works when the pads are hot and after a series of hard stops. Then they work well. Otherwise, it can get kinda scary. Cold, standing on the pedal will not lock the front wheels. The calipers are twin-piston SSBs.
As you can see, I really went out on a limb when going to the race. I just slapped the motor in the and DROVE!!!
I'll blog here + pics but will likely have more specific questions in relevant sections.
Your in performance,
D.
I was not sure where to post this as it doesn't fit in any particular area. It's isn't supercharge; it isn't wiring; it isn't water/meth injection; it isn't trans related. It is all of the above. It's a blog documenting my peripecies as I prepare for my next race... That's IT! Shouldn't we have a racing area? Where we blog as we prep for races?
Since the last race, a few issues have cropped up: the steering wheel won't lock and I cannot get my key out of the ignition
, after a while in heavy traffic I get close to overheating, and very rich at WOT.I replaced the exhaust gasket with one that is more restrictive, but at least it SHUTS UP! The gasket better fits the headers rather than the heads.
The rich at WOT is off to me as I tuned this on a dyno last year. The only thing that changed was the rotating assy that has deeper piston dishes. That and the centrifugal blower might be slipping. In anycase, I need to replace the belt as it lost 4 of its 12 ribs rubbing against the powersteering pulley. I eed to move the PS pulley out of the way somehow before replacing the belt - then I'll put in an adjust-a-jet secondary plate on the carb.
The near overheating, that I experienced this morning going to work, occurs after about an hour of slow stop and go traffic. The secondary puller eletric fan (18 amps) shuts down! My guess: it is the automatic circuit breaker. The primary fan (near 40 amps if I recall correctly), a pusher, is a heavy duty unit from a Ford truck. It works GREAT! I think the water pump might be getting old as well... moving from stationary to 20 mph (1500 rpm) and the temp drops from <200 to 185. The secondary fan might be a bit of a cheapo.
As for the rest...
To kick off, here are the things I need to do over the year as I prep for the next race:
A = short term, B = medium term, C = long term.
A- Replace my 1-inch master cylinder with a 15/16* (I need to stop!)
C - Take it to a dyno and tune
A - Install the blow off valve.
A - fix steering wheel lock
A - Reconnect the wiring for my electric trans temp and trans pressure gauges
B - Ensure water/meth injection circuit is operating smoothly + underhood LED works
A - Replace cabin dome light and cover
B - Put healights on relays
A - Raise rev limit
C - Rebuild rear end. Details TBD
C - Get it to hook
A - Get knock sensor back on line
A - Get the under hood idiot light running again: temp/fans + line lock + water meth LED
A - Get TCC circuit running again
A - Get onboard A/F gauge running again
B - Get that adjust-a-jet plate and basic tune with my dual wide-band O2 sensor
B - Get a keyless lock
A - Get gauge lights working
A - Find rattle at hot idle (water pump?)
C - Get cheapo race rims
B - Get body shop to attend to some rust issues.
A - Get that @#$%@# relay center stuck to the dash... the velcro keeps coming off and making a sticky mess on the dash.
As you see a lot of As but many of them small jobs.
* Currently emergency stop only works when the pads are hot and after a series of hard stops. Then they work well. Otherwise, it can get kinda scary. Cold, standing on the pedal will not lock the front wheels. The calipers are twin-piston SSBs.
As you can see, I really went out on a limb when going to the race. I just slapped the motor in the and DROVE!!!
I'll blog here + pics but will likely have more specific questions in relevant sections.
Your in performance,
D.
