just curious?
I had a recent discussion with a guy who had to remove his header on one side of his engine to access his starter, it was an larger older model, O.E.M. starter he had on his car and I understand the economic reasons to use a standard starter you already own, but he went out and purchased a rebuilt O.E.M. starter for a good deal more than the newer mini starter would have cost him,when the O.E.M starter failed which he said seems to be heat related because the larger starter sits so close to the headers,
why would you use a standard O.E.M. starter when a MINI STARTER weights less gives more header clearance, and most can be indexed and many are geared to produce higher torque, now theres a dozen brands and models to select from, but the standard O.E.M. starters don,t have much going for them from what Ive seen, Ive used mini starters on 13:1 compression big blocks that lasted for years so dependability of the better brands is not an issue
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...arters-and-started-related-info.458/#post-562
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/odd-starter-related-problem.5926/#post-18758
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/168-or-153-flywheels.3951/#post-10551
it never hurts to verify your getting ignition spark and the ignition timing is correct,
or the the firing orders correct, or that your getting fuel pressure if your having starting issues
a timing light,
you can buy standard chevy starters at a decent price
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1304-chev ... mt200.aspx
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-dig ... 98674.html
most small blocks use the strait bolt pattern, many use the smaller 153 tooth flywheel size, most BIG BLOCKS use the larger 168 tooth flywheels and the diagonal bolt pattern starters but there are engines that used either or both
READ THIS THREAD
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=458&p=1545#p1545
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=299&p=364&hilit=+remote+ford#p364
Ive used, and seen others use that starter before and I have yet to have had any issues, nor have I seen others have any issues if its properly installed,
most but of course not all NEW, starter issues, are the result of improper installs or wiring issues (you'll need to get the Bendix gear to flex-plate or flywheel ring gear correctly clearanced.)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-starter.1646/#post-65014
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rters-and-started-related-info.458/#post-1545
http://www.racerswholesale.com/product.cfm?InvKey=73111
yes they make staggered bolt 153 tooth flywheel compatible starters
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-829100/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-820323-OS/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-9400/
I also suggested a heat barrier as they tend to make starters last longer near headers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14150/?rtype=10
L98 starter
LT1 starter
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 5_48987_0_
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html
need any assistance at 888-334-2632 REBUILD CONTACTS COST $35
after watching what my neighbor went thru replacing his LT1 starter and knowing what he paid (well over $150 ) and knowing my LT1 corvettes also over 15 years old I ordered the repair parts for my starter because it also is of similar age and I figured rebuilding it seems like a no-brainer for $35
I pulled my starter and disassembled and inspected it, its just not a huge job and if your careful and pay attention to how things come apart its reasonably easy to do with the instructions posted below...
Id add that youll need two cans of spray brake cleaner to remove all grease and road tar, oil sand etc from the starter once its removed
because its far easier to work with dry grease free parts
and that it helps a great deal to work slowly and carefully as theres a few small parts and you need to keep the insulating washers and lock washers etc in the correct order so it helps to do only one electrical contact at a time, then move to the other side and use a q-tip of moly grease on the plunger surfaces, to put
a VERY LIGHT barely detectable film of grease, on the plunger surface , sure wont hurt its ease of movement,you put a VERY LIGHT FILM COATING on BOTH plunger surfaces, it should be barely visible,the lower narrow spring guide is not as critical to keeping it light, but it is very important to keep the film almost non visible on the larger diam. upper plunger body to prevent the electrical contacts from getting any on them,
youll need a 9/16 swivel socket and a 10" extension to get easy access and to dis-assemble and reassemble the block mount bolts and
a flex shaft screw driver with a 4" extension added for the small 1/4 drive 7mm socket required helps gain easy access to the solenoid connection wire nuts, and I found
beveling the first thread on the starter mount bolts to a 45 degree angle sure helps get the bolts started and some
lock-tite on the threads keeps them from easily vibrating loose.
youll need a 12mm and 14mm box or open end wrench for some electrical component connections
the whole job takes under 45 minutes so its not like its a major project and standard tools do the job
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html
need any assistance at 888-334-2632 REBUILD CONTACTS COST $35