Problem with starter

91coupe

Member
Is there a way to check if te starter is good after it's removed from the car?
On older cars you just crossed a couple studs on the solenoid and it would spin or not,
but the mini on the 91 vette only has 2 connectors do I do it the same way ground the
starter and jump between the two terminals? Thanks Rich
 
sure, just run a set of jumper cables to the starter, connect the black neg lead from the battery to the starters case and connect the red positive battery lead to the large term on the starter it should jump and spin
Id start by cleaning the battery terminals and cable connections carefully, a great many problems blamed on battery's and fuses are basically high resistance or intermittent connections, then use a multi meter to see what your dealing with
read thru this thread


pco-0890c_s.jpg

http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html
startwiredfgg.jpg

these guys have a good product

http://www.dbelectrical.com/Starter%20M ... %20Motors/

startermount.gif


StarterSystem.jpg

startersolenoid.gif


this is most likely both the easiest diagram to use and understand
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nting-a-battery-in-the-trunk.4395/#post-11556

http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

http://www.blackmilkmedia.com/how-to-wire-a-chevy-starter-wiring-diagram/

solenoid04.gif

solenoid06.gif

solenoid07.gif

solenoid05.jpg
 
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just curious?
I had a recent discussion with a guy who had to remove his header on one side of his engine to access his starter, it was an larger older model, O.E.M. starter he had on his car and I understand the economic reasons to use a standard starter you already own, but he went out and purchased a rebuilt O.E.M. starter for a good deal more than the newer mini starter would have cost him,when the O.E.M starter failed which he said seems to be heat related because the larger starter sits so close to the headers,
why would you use a standard O.E.M. starter when a MINI STARTER weights less gives more header clearance, and most can be indexed and many are geared to produce higher torque, now theres a dozen brands and models to select from, but the standard O.E.M. starters don,t have much going for them from what Ive seen, Ive used mini starters on 13:1 compression big blocks that lasted for years so dependability of the better brands is not an issue
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...arters-and-started-related-info.458/#post-562

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/odd-starter-related-problem.5926/#post-18758

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/168-or-153-flywheels.3951/#post-10551

it never hurts to verify your getting ignition spark and the ignition timing is correct,
or the the firing orders correct, or that your getting fuel pressure if your having starting issues

timinglite4.jpg


a timing light,
you can buy standard chevy starters at a decent price

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1304-chev ... mt200.aspx
starterboltsa.jpg

image_6238.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-dig ... 98674.html
most small blocks use the strait bolt pattern, many use the smaller 153 tooth flywheel size, most BIG BLOCKS use the larger 168 tooth flywheels and the diagonal bolt pattern starters but there are engines that used either or both
READ THIS THREAD
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=458&p=1545#p1545

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=299&p=364&hilit=+remote+ford#p364

pwm-9200.jpg

Ive used, and seen others use that starter before and I have yet to have had any issues, nor have I seen others have any issues if its properly installed,
most but of course not all NEW, starter issues, are the result of improper installs or wiring issues (you'll need to get the Bendix gear to flex-plate or flywheel ring gear correctly clearanced.)

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-starter.1646/#post-65014

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rters-and-started-related-info.458/#post-1545
sum-829100_cp.jpg


http://www.racerswholesale.com/product.cfm?InvKey=73111
yes they make staggered bolt 153 tooth flywheel compatible starters

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-829100/
SUM-820323-OS.jpg


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-820323-OS/
pwm-9400_w.jpg


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-9400/
the-14150_cp.jpg


I also suggested a heat barrier as they tend to make starters last longer near headers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14150/?rtype=10






l981.jpg

l982.jpg

L98 starter

1995starter1.jpg

1995starter2.jpg


LT1 starter

Starter&ChargingCircuit_1000.jpg

SS_20Kit_1_.jpg


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 5_48987_0_

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html

need any assistance at 888-334-2632 REBUILD CONTACTS COST $35
after watching what my neighbor went thru replacing his LT1 starter and knowing what he paid (well over $150 ) and knowing my LT1 corvettes also over 15 years old I ordered the repair parts for my starter because it also is of similar age and I figured rebuilding it seems like a no-brainer for $35
I pulled my starter and disassembled and inspected it, its just not a huge job and if your careful and pay attention to how things come apart its reasonably easy to do with the instructions posted below...
Id add that youll need two cans of spray brake cleaner to remove all grease and road tar, oil sand etc from the starter once its removed
383653.jpg

because its far easier to work with dry grease free parts

and that it helps a great deal to work slowly and carefully as theres a few small parts and you need to keep the insulating washers and lock washers etc in the correct order so it helps to do only one electrical contact at a time, then move to the other side and use a q-tip of moly grease on the plunger surfaces, to put a VERY LIGHT barely detectable film of grease, on the plunger surface , sure wont hurt its ease of movement,you put a VERY LIGHT FILM COATING on BOTH plunger surfaces, it should be barely visible,the lower narrow spring guide is not as critical to keeping it light, but it is very important to keep the film almost non visible on the larger diam. upper plunger body to prevent the electrical contacts from getting any on them,

StarterPlunger01.jpg
youll need a 9/16 swivel socket and a 10" extension to get easy access and to dis-assemble and reassemble the block mount bolts and a flex shaft screw driver with a 4" extension added for the small 1/4 drive 7mm socket required helps gain easy access to the solenoid connection wire nuts, and I found beveling the first thread on the starter mount bolts to a 45 degree angle sure helps get the bolts started and some lock-tite on the threads keeps them from easily vibrating loose.
youll need a 12mm and 14mm box or open end wrench for some electrical component connections
the whole job takes under 45 minutes so its not like its a major project and standard tools do the job


Flex-Driver.jpg


swivelsocket.jpg


http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html

need any assistance at 888-334-2632 REBUILD CONTACTS COST $35

nip1.jpg

nip2.jpg

nip3.jpg
 
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"HEY GRUMPY, if you have long tube headers (TPIS), do you have to remove the exhaust to remove the starter?"


I have not used that particular brand of headers, so I can,t be 100% certain, but in most cases, and with HOOKER and HEADMAN headers you can get access, without removing the headers , but its far easier if you remove or at least partly loosen the header to cylinder head bolts.
but in any case if you have a decent set of (4) 12 ton jack stands , which allow you a good deal of room under the corvette once its up, and a decent floor jack to do it with, and a mechanics creeper or IDEALLY a lift in your shop, its not going to be a major project in any case

yeah! I know a LIFT seems so easy, but in many cases I actually prefer the floor jack,jack stands and creeper, probably the result of 35 years or working that way even though I now have an excellent lift

startwiredfgg.jpg

solenoid_wires_f113fd381f88ec03d9722849279ce9f15e63c7de.jpg

http://custombatterycables.com/product_info.htm

having heavy gauge COPPER battery and ground connection cables with the correct ends, and a 140 amp-to-200 amp alternator goes a long way towards
reducing potential battery and starter related issues


https://www.summitracing.com/search...block starter&ar=1&kr=big block chevy starter

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rters-and-started-related-info.458/#post-1579
 
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Anyone here running a rear block protector plate with a gear reduction style starter? I just mounted a new 'Proform' gear reduction starter. When I tested it all it would do is spin. The pinion would not engage the flywheel. I think it may be because I am running a block protection plate that increases the distance between the starter pinion and the flywheel. Could that be the case? My stock Chevy hi-torque starter worked with the protector plate but it did whine quite a bit.
flydie.jpg

starter_wires_96c41241e2a0f64a559d612c52e07c9dee033750.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rters-and-started-related-info.458/#post-1579
510SH.jpg

there are 153 (about 12")
and 168 tooth (about 14")
fly wheel,
but in every case the starter must be mounted, on the block with the correct matching bell housing on the block to correctly contact the flywheel SIZE your using
sizes obviously there.s two places to mount the starter on a few blocks,
and some starters have multiple mount holes.
some in-line some off-set (look below)
starterboltsa.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...he-daily-driver-1999-chevy-tahoe.15081/page-2
the better quality versions of the gear reduction high torque starters tend to work rather well
tff-6772b_w.jpg

Tuff Stuff Performance 6772B
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-6772b/overview/make/chevrolet

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-starter.1646/#post-65015



sum-829100_cp.jpg
 
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I am running a Rear Block protector plate and scatter shield made by McLeod on My T/A.
Nothing fits snd works as reliable as the Factory GM High Torque 10 MT Starter motor.
On my car it Fits with Big Tube headers just barely.
There is no perfect aftermarket mini starter.
Get used to modifications and custom built parts.
Mini starter is nice. I use one.
Had to make a one off Billet aluminum nose block for my Power Master Super Torque Starter motor.
 
hi. I'm curious if anyone else has this problem and what they did to fix I. On the starter sylinoid their are two fusable links actually 3 one is one wire off sylinoid and splits to two fusable links and then their is a single fusable link. I unwrapped the wire harness and chased the lines down to their connection . The single fusable link is my problem. Running from the sylinoid to the alternator. Their is no open spots in wiring or grounded out anywhere. And happens speratic. No patterms , just when ever it happens. When I'm in car driving or in idle . My car starts runner Ng horrible and the volts go from 13.8 - 14.1 volts . In 3 to 4 minutes the battery is at 6 volts and the car does. The fusable link melts and breaks and instantly the cars battery is drain dead and car won't do anything but click click click. Replace the fusable link and some times it runs again other times the fusable link burns again and again. Tested the alternator and starter both checked out fine. Replaced the battery cables pos. And negitive , ran me wires to alternator to sylinoid . Still have the problem. Replaced alternator last night and only to find the alternator is no good , a brand new alternator , no good. Frustrating. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Can't takey car anywhere otherwise I have to tow it back home. Almost 90 %of the time. What can I do to fix my problem, what is a creating it to happen. Need help please. Electrical is not the best part I'm good at on car. Everything's else I can handle very well. Please help me. What to do...

I think Id start by pulling trouble codes and verifying the starter is correctly wired,
you cure problems by locating the source or defective component,
not guessing, so test & isolate and verify whats causing the problem,

guessing is a waste of time.
ID darn sure suggest you buy and use a factory shop manual as a guide,
a multi meter and amp gauge will help, a shop manual is well worth the cost.

if it is Id start with swapping to a new gear reduction starter and remote solenoid
if the battery and alternator test ok, and your melting fuse links regularly,
and your battery cables, pos/neg are new and recently replaced,
your starter is obviously drawing excessive amps at times
if anyone else cares to chip in info here please do so
it never hurts to verify your getting ignition spark and the ignition timing is correct,
or the the firing orders correct, or that your getting fuel pressure if your having starting issues

timinglite4.jpg


a timing light,

read these links


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-ok-but-key-won-t-start-car.12496/#post-63024

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-starter.1646/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-starter.1646/#post-65015

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ote-ford-solenoid-chevy-starter.299/#post-364

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/measuring-amps.15548/#post-92783

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/multi-meters.3110/#post-71867

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/how-altenators-work.355/#post-62266

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-an-alternator.3222/#post-46703


have you considered replacing the fuse links with marine 60-100 amp rated breakers
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1633/Marine-Rated-Circuit-Breakers/
 
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