problems after cam install

[grumpyvette]

posted bye
Weav's Vet

HEY GRUMPYVETTE
I took my car to the dyno yesterday. It absolutely sucked! It was down to 277 rwhp from 303 on my last pull before the cam I installed. The torque actually gained a little over my last pull before the cam. up to 310 from 3.07.

To top it off I just made one pull because the car refused to start or do anything after that pull. I'm assuming it was VATS but I don't really know for sure yet. The PCM may have just died on me. I put and extra PCM I had in the car and it fired right up. I got it home and I'm in the process of taking this up with my tuner. He says it probably isn't the tune making it run so bad that it is the motor. I disagree because it ran pretty damn good before the new cam. What do you guys think?

Just to refresh.......1996 LT1
The CPS has been deleted on the car.
The cam is a LE 226/230 .565/.565 111 lsa
The motor is stock and has 95K on it.
The rear gear is 3.07
2800 Pete K stall
EWP
1.6 rr's
Patriot extreme valve springs
New GMPP lifters
Hardened push rods
Guide plates
Double roller timing chain
New GM opti
New MSD 8.5 wires
52mm BBK TB

Did a compression test this afternoon just to see what it produced. Good pressure on all. Is this about normal for a 95,000 mile motor?


#1- 210
3- 210
5- 200
7- 200

#2- 220
4- 225
6- 235
8- 225

 

[grumpyvette]

ok having read thru this, thread its rather obvious that several rather critical factors were NOT VERIFIED during the cam installation, you can,t GUESS!, you need to VERIFY what your working with.
the first step is verifying all the sensor outputs and making sure any adjustable factors like the TPS, O2 sensors, mat,heat sensors,etc. and timing and fuel pressure meet the aligned ranges,and potential problems like vacuum leaks, and the TIMING TAB INDICATING TDC are correct and reading all trouble codes , then move on to the mechanical problems, like adjusting the valves and verifying the cams indexed correctly, and the valve train geometry is correct.
if you don,t own a factory shop manual, a vacuum gauge, timing light, V.O.M. meter and a few injector NOID LIGHTS, and a fuel pressure gauge you need to get those
If you were local Id suggest coming over and we could verify the cam timing with a degree wheel
the first time you degree in a cam, you wonder how difficult this COMPLEX PROCEDURE will be, but after doing it MANY DOZENS of TIMES it amazes you that you worried about it the first few times.

http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-90000/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66787/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4796/

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90

viewtopic.php?f=80&t=728&p=4775&hilit=+sensor#p4775

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=727

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1337&p=2923#p2923

the three most obvious were that the spring clearances, valve train geometry and load rates were not verified, to be exactly correct and the cam was not degreed in, so your guessing, if those factors are correct and I don,t see any reference to the IGNITION timing, or exhaust back pressure being verified , the 210-225 psi compression test readings tend to indicate a cam thats advanced
when you get into stuff like this you CAN,T GUESS , you need to KNOW the answers
and you CAN,T be 100% sure the marks on the timing gears used to line up the cam index to the crank are exactly correct,
step one
is degree in the cam (use the sub-links in the linked info above)
step two
verify the valve train clearances and geometry
step three
verify your fuel pressure , the exhaust back pressure,you ignition timing on the dyno, and get that info on a real time print out


"The cam is a LE 226/230 .565/.565 111 lsa"

that timing places the intake valve fully closed at about 50 degrees after BDC, so your effective stroke once the valve closes is about 3.0",making your effective compression with that cam timing closer to a 145psi-160psi compression reading

http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf

http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=727

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1337&p=2921&hilit=+infrared#p2921

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401
notice the approximate location and relationship between the cam pin and crank key

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/eng ... index.html

these might help, as will reading thru the linked and sub links posted earlier
Im not saying your cam being correctly or incorrectly indexed is your only problem, but with out a step by step systematic approach checking and eliminating each potential problem area from the discussion its rather pointless to jump around guessing and swapping parts randomly in the hope you hit on the answers


these links may be useful
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/adjusting-valves.196/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...cally-tracking-down-a-valve-train-noise.6237/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/metal-in-oil.10875/#post-47688

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-wear-articles-you-need-to-read.282/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/