Quality engine parts don't come in plain white boxes!

Can I use new lifters on a just broken in camshaft - only 2.5 hours run time on engine test stand?

  • It will never work. Guaranteed failure.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • You might get lucky.

    Votes: 4 80.0%
  • In your case, no problem, go for it. As long you do a proper break-in with the correct moly paste.

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .
your posted link, too the previous thread, does not work!

next I'm going to ask WHY your changing lifters on that cam?
if the old flat tappet lifters failed, they failed to correctly lap into the cam lobes,
the current cam is more than likely already damaged,
and will quickly destroy ANY of the the old flat tappet lifters,
you place on those lobes even IF the lobes appear to be ok.
this makes me question the need to change the old (less than a couple hours old flat tappet lifters)
(roller lifters can be closely inspected and if found to be , clean, and undamaged /ok, can be re-used)
related info


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-wear-articles-you-need-to-read.282/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-clearances-and-problems.528/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/breaking-in-a-cam.798/#post-1160

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ear-articles-you-need-to-read.282/#post-52017

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-break-in-procedure.130/#post-728

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ectly-and-get-it-to-last-cam-install-info.90/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rocker-push-rod-wear-issues.9815/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/polishing-lifter-to-increase-oil-flow.11152/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lve-springs-loads-and-installed-height.10709/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-the-correct-valve-spring-load-rates.4680/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-at-the-circle-track-suppliers-helps.10978/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flat-tappet-lifters-and-cam-core-specs.2166/
 
As a test, I'm going to do what Robert did. I'm going to change out 2 lifters, putting in 1 old Crane and a Delphi that I will add the (missing?) off-center hole to the piddle disc. Then I will run the oil pump with my preluber shaft (cut down distributor) with a 1/2" electric drill motor. Then I will be able to compare which will properly oil the rockers.

The Delphi lifters I bought: http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/detail.aspx?Item=J-817, and say:
You will receive genuine Delphi / GM lifters. Use nothing but Genuine Delphi lifters. 100% made in the USA

We have contacted the three cam companies we deal with, Crane, Lunati, and Howards, and all highly approve of this lifter. In the past we marketed these lifters under the former name, "Eaton" They are the exact same lifter.

We purchase our Delphi lifters in bulk trays of 122 each, as all engine builders do. We use them in all of our engines running a hyd. flat tappet cam. You will receive a complete set of 16 in an unmarked well protected package. The cost difference is well worth the difference, but rest assured these are genuine Delphi lifters. We can provide proof for those that are concerned. They are genuine Delphi tappets, made in the USA


I sent an email to Skip - no answer, yet???

from Robert's post, "The major 'offshore' producer of lifters is currently Eaton with plants in Mexico, India, Turkey and a new plant in China."

So I guess that sellers can get away with advertising MADE IN THE USA even if the parts really aren't made here!
 
Grumpy, the link opens for me. Does it say you need to be logged in to view this post?
My lifters are not letting the oil get to the rockers. I suspect their piddle valves are wrong or missing a hole in them.
Do you happen to have a good animation of a piddle valve operating?
 
whats the full exact title on the linked thread?
 
HELP, I might have no oil to the rockers.

Welcome to the party. We've been missing you.
 
the first thing Id be doing here, if your not getting a strong oil flow at each rocker while your turn the engine manually and use the oil priming tool, is carefully visual checking of BOTH the valve train rocker geometry and that the push rods are completely hollow and free of debris, by cleaning each with solvent and high pressure air, then mocking the drive train up and verifying that BOTH the rocker and push rod oil feed holes line up at some point in the 720 degrees of rotation, and that the bottom end of the push rods stay aligned with the center of the lifters, seat, this might sound like its a assumed fact, but its easily possible for the push rods to bind on the push rod guide plates or guide slots in the cylinder heads, this potential BINDING will move the push rod , out of its seat on the lifter or rocker preventing proper oil feed out of the lifter or rockers proper alignment, if the oil feed holes are not properly lined up oil won,t flow freely

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/not-getting-oil-to-rockers.4537/
prctool.png


A-ENGINE-OIL-02-small-block-v8-lub-sys.gif

265_oil-2.jpg


Loves302Chevy posted these pictures

groovelc1.jpg

COMP SELLS A TOOL TO GROOVE LIFTER BORES
335.jpg

groovelc2.png

groovelc3.png

groovelc4.png

groovelc5.png

groovelc6.png

groovelc7.png

groovelc8.jpg
 
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I would consider that normal Rick. All I have is an ooze at idle after minutes with nothing. And if I rev it, I get an insufficient spurt.
Over the last 4 days, I have spent 40 hours on the internet researching this problem. Last night I spent 6 hours at Corvaircenter.com. The replacement lifter for Corvair engines is the SBC lifter. A bunch of those guys have the same problem as I do, and they have tried nearly every lifter modification there is, with no solution. 1 guy even fabricated an axillary oil spray bar. So I am not alone in this. I'll post some of their pics, after I resize them later.
I'll post more tonight. I have to get ready for work.
Grumpy, please read this thread from the beginning: http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...help-i-might-have-no-oil-to-the-rockers.3397/

What I can say right now is that this is a new rebuild of this resurrected engine. Most of the parts are reused (19,000 miles) and are in perfect condition. The cam is new, but the same as before, the heads got guide liners, valves, and a seat touch-up, springs, and new lifters. The pushrods and 8 intake rockers are reused. The exhaust rockers are new (CC 1.52 roller tip). Everything worked as it should the 1st go around using the Crane lifters. This time I'm using Delphi's with the hardened bases. What took the engine out the first time was that the valve retainers were hitting the valve seals. It killed the cam lobes and sent all that metal through the engine, killing everything. That has been corrected and the valvetrain geometry now is perfect with no interference anywhere.
 
How do You want me to Vote Chevy Love 302 ?
I can not guarentee running new lifters on rhe 2-1/2 hr run time flat tappet hydraulic cam.
Its abnormal what your experiencing.
I don't think your Ficken Retarderd.
You got Ficked by Chuna damn lifters repacked in other boxes.
 
Right now I can say only Iskenderian Flat Tappet Hydraulic lifters can be trusted.

Unfortunately all others must be examined and tested.
 
Isky lifters also have the oil metering bands in the correct location for Pontiac V8 & Chevy V8,
 
Grumpy, I was reading through the link you sent, http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/, and now I'm a little confused. Are you trying to get me to figure out that I cut off the oil supply to the lifters somewhere? The block is a 1984 305. I installed the cam bearings, correct numbers in their correct positions. And the camshaft spun as it should when I was done. Numbers 1 (front) - 4 almost can't be screwed up because the width of the bearing bore is almost the same width as the bearing. Number 5 (rear) ended up almost against the cam plug - just like in your photo (0183.jpg), which does not open correctly . In all positions, I centered the holes in the bearings with the grooves in the bearing bores. I'm now not sure anymore about the the front and rear plugs. The rears were screw-in from the factory, and are currently showing about 1.5 threads sticking out. So I definitely am not cutting off an oil supply there. BTW, the block was completely taken apart, and cleaned with solvents and compressed air at least 10 times before final assembly. The last cleaning was in the jet cleaner at the machine shop. It was operating room clean.
The first build of this engine , I tapped the 2 front lifter galleries for screw-in plugs, but left the center plug alone because I did not want to risk cutting off the oil to the front main bearing. I can't find a good photo of the front plugs on a mid 80s driver's side dipstick block, but photo #10 shows similar to my plugs being installed deeper than the earlier blocks. This time around, I did tap the center gallery, but I made damn sure not to cut off the oil passage by half-moon milling the back of that plug. Where I'm now unsure is if there were passages behind the 2 front lifter gallery plugs that I ended up cutting off. I don't remember seeing any. And I would have definitely noticed that a week ago when I switched the plug on the pass side that had the .030" hole in it. I changed it back to no hole when #2Ex rocker had no oil.

I read in your link, "If the oil flow came through the push rods as you primed the engine, in that order your rear cam bearing may not be correctly indexed/installed incorrectly. BOTH the front and rear cam bearings feed oil across to the other lifter gallery when the front and rear cam bearings are correctly indexed to the lifter gallery oil feeds."

I must be sure about these 2 things first, before I do any more messing around with the lifters.

oilpo.jpg frontgroove.JPG front plugs & holes.jpg geometry zero lift.jpg geometry max lift.jpg hole location.jpg no interference.jpg Rear Cam Bearing Position.jpg screw in front plugs.jpg front plugs.jpg
 
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I will run the oil pump with the preluber shaft today to see if I can find where the oil is going, or not going.
The unmolested spin-on oil filter adapters came in yesterday, so I will test that also.
 
There is another way to Test Loves 302.
Find a single or a pair of GM SBC Solid Flat tappet lifters and install.
Don't start the engine. Just spin test with your electric drill.
Check at your local Speed Shop Race Shop.
Iskenderien 202 HY are thier Solid Flat Tappet SBC & BBC Flat Tappet .842" lifters.
You want to Avoid COMPETITION CAMS.
KNOWN TO BE JUNK AND CHINA SOURCED.
WILL GET SCREWED.
USE ONLY ISKENDERIEN CAMS AND LIFTERS.
 
If You get oil up easily through the pushrods to the rockers with a single or a pair of Isky 202 HY Solid Flat Tappet Lifters then you know for sure the Delphi China Lifters are at fault.
ISKY IS ALL MADE IN THE USA.
ALWAYS HAVE BEEN. NO BEAN COUNTERS.
NO RIPOFFS. NEVER WENT BANKRUPT BECAUSE OF THIEVES AND THAT JACKASS FICKER OBAMA.
 
Iskenderien 202 is thier GM SBC & BBC Hydraulic lifter set for flat tappet cams.
 
No way In Hell I will listen to Anyone telling me what parts to use.

I know what works.

Iskenderien cams and Lifters.
 
Also its not necessary to groove lifter bores using Isky.
They offer EDM Drilled lifter faces for additional cam lobe oiling if want it.
 
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